| Author | Message | ||
     Teddagreek |
I have background in Electronics and some decent electrical skills... I'm about to run a second wiring harness to the front of the bike for accessories... I little anal and just want to do this right? I know nothing about motorcycle wiring... Let me rephrase that, I know nothing about proper motorcycle wiring?  Can I ground anywhere on the bike chassis? or should I set up a Negative/Ground Bus with a wire going to Battery Ground? I get continuity from the front of the bike but I’m getting about 8 to 9 ohms compared to 0-1 at the rear… I’d be at zero at the Negative ground…. I’m using Marine grade stranded wire multiple conductor cable either three or five haven‘t decided yet… its rated to 105 Celsius, Water Proof, Oil and gas resistant good stuff.. Is this good enough.. Its made by Ancor I’m going the wrapping the New harness in heat shield product for wire… Is there more I should do? Any Insight, suggestions, or advice would be greatly appreciated.. | ||
| Oldog |
Grounding to the aft end of the chassis is desirable, you will pass the current back to the ground through the head bearings [potentialy flakey ground] in the event of a short possible bearing damage] Most of the buells have a close stearing head to frame clearence too many wires in the space may damage the oem stuff, they arent unobtanium it can also interfeere with movement of the cables | ||
| Bomber |
Dawg's data points are right on target -- also, remember that there will likely be at least a little grease in the steering head area, and while it's like an OK conductor, ya don't need any electrolysis goin on in there there's a good ground (on tubers) just above the battery -- braided grounding strap form the negative pole to the frame -- I'd run a bug old grounding buss from there up forward where you can then distribute the power as you wish the wires you say you're gonna use are likely much higher quality than the OEM stuff -- not slagging the factory, but the wires are not NASA grade, by any manner -- the conenctors used (Deutch {SP?}) are good quality units -- the braided covering used on the harness is also good quality stuff, tough to find locally heat-protective harness cover will be great some places, overkill, others, depending on the routing, of course -- be interested in abrasion protection, as well, especially if the wires, as Dawg sez, go up to the binnacle thought the steering head neighborhood -- | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Also, remember that the engine moves with respect to the steel frame. I had many things wear through. (Road grime)+(oil)=chafe chafe chafe chafe | ||
| Teddagreek |
bump | ||
| Loki |
On the chassis itself(frame)? YES. -a couple of ohms on the ground side is nothing to fret about. A good spot on the front would be the coil mount holes. -any wire rated for automotive use will work. Just skip on using any solid core wire. -wrapping the wire for heat insulation. Not a requirement and way overkill. Unless it will tend to rest on the engine or come into real close proximity to it. -Snakeskin(braided sleeving) is the route to go. Takes to bending and flexing real well. -Duetsch connectors the route to go. Not the cheapest way but probably the best. Besides they are readily available through the dealers. **I have a small excel worksheet with the numbers and matching parts. | ||
| Fullpower |
"-a couple of ohms on the ground side is nothing to fret about"--------- please rethink your statement.a couple of ohms resistance in the ground path of a 12 volt circuit WILL prevent a lighting or heating load from working at all. running a a dedicated power and ground lead up to the front of the bike is a VERY good idea. I used the two vacant fuse positions under the seat in the stock fuse box for key switched power, one for the HID lighting, and the other for heated grips. good luck. dean | ||
| Loki |
Fullpower, By a couple I mean 1-2 will not be a big factor. For non-critical items that simply require a power outlet. The 9 that was tossed out is a big deal on a ground. That is simply a bad ground. Yes, there are items that demand a close tolerence on extraneous resistance. These items should be wired as per any installation instructions. | ||
| Henrik |
Any suggestions on what gauge stranded wire to run for such a remote power & ground location up front? Henrik | ||
| Fullpower |
i used 16g for HID headlamp, and 18 g for the heated grips. | ||
| Henrik |
Wow, even 16g doesn't sound like much, but then I don't know much about MC wiring, and have been running 12g BX in the house lately  Thanks for the info. Henrik | ||
| Oldog |
and have been running 12g BX in the house lately  | ||
| Fullpower |
bought any copper lately? hold on to your hat, stuff went up a BUNCH. |
