| Author | Message | ||
     Gmc310 |
anyone have any tips for removing front wheel at home ?any comments would be great , Thanks , Gary | ||
| Djkaplan |
Once you find a way to raise the front end, the only tip I have is to put tape on your wheel before you wiggle the front caliper off to keep from scratching the finish on it. | ||
| Spike |
Do you have a service manual? If so, it outlines the procedure completely. The only thing I would add to the service manual procedure is to tape the wheel as Djkaplan suggested. It's very easy to scratch the wheel with the caliper. The basic procedure is to remove the front fender, loosen pinch bolts, turn forks, remove axle (reversed thread!), slide wheel toward the rear to get the caliper off of the rotor, twist right side fork leg so the caliper is away from the wheel, remove wheel. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I AGREE. tape would have made it easier not to scratch them as i did. live and learn. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Here is my economical way to get the front end jacked up.  I needed to jack up Ol Yaller to change the front tire, and I couldn't get the jack from my cage under the muffler. So I jacked up the rear wheel using the usual rear wheel stand. Then I grabbed a couple of 2x 6's that were laying around, and put three of them under the bike. Then I took a five foot piece of 2x6, (seen in the photo to the right of the stack of wood under the muffler), and levered the muffler up about an inch while another guy steadied the bike, and slid the the fourth piece of 2x6 under the muffler. When I lowered the lever, we had about a half inch under the front wheel. Worked like a Charm, ( until the contractors wanted their 2x6's back:-). After I put the wheel back on, we just reversed the procedure: levered the muffler up a half inch, kicked out the top piece of 2x6, lowered rear stand, and put the bike back on the kick stand. Still a two man job. Cost: .00 Time about two minutes, once I figured it out:-) | ||
| Jackbequick |
If you have a hollow rear axle, put a piece of 1/2" rebar through the axle and put the back on two auto jackstands, one on each side. No height is needed here, just to get it vertical and get the steadying effect. That will leave the front end heavy but if you have a rafter or something overhead or an engine hoist, you can lift the front end by lifting on a high point (the bars?) with a block and tackle or something like that. Break the bolts loose first, then do the lift. I'd also stack some blocking under the muffler to steady it and give you something to fall back on. Watch out on any pushing and shoving, you can rock the back end off the stands if you are not careful. I removed the disc from my M2 to get the caliper off. In theory it was not necessary but I could not find the "sweet spot" that will let it come off. The brake pads have to come out first of course. Jack | ||
| Ceejay |
As Jack said, steady the bike via jack stands and rebar in the rear axle, but a bottle jack fits nicely tucked in behind the exhaust, just under the voltage regulator between the shock and the junction from the header to the silencer... | ||
| Fullpower |
bottle jack is not necessary, a six inch long stick will work just fine. about 20 pounds force at right handlebar end will easily raise muffler enough to set a block underneath. fender can stay on. removing front brake caliper is required. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Gentlemen_jon also has a novel way of loading Ol Yaller in its trailer...  | ||
| New12r |
I like his loading procedure, classic. I use a aluminum race jack or a Pit Bull front stand, both work great. | ||
| Sanchez |
I use a rear stand on the back and my automotive jack on the front. The jack pushes against a short piece of 2x4 I put between the shock and muffler.  |
