| Author | Message | ||
     Rick_A |
This is my "new" crash enhanced dash setup.  | ||
| Ocbueller |
Rick A, Nice work! More info on the speedo mount,pics? How did you mount the magnet to the wheel? Thanks. SteveH | ||
| Rick_A |
I mounted the magnet with clear 30min. epoxy. The magnet was removed from its plastic casing, then bonded to the outside of the rim. With the polished rim surface the epoxy bonds well enough to stay put, but only requires a light tap with a punch and a hammer to remove completely. The pickup is mounted on the left side where the front fender bolts, and I fabricated a mount from sheet stainless. I love this setup. My friends hate it...but I have a speedometer, odometer, trip meter, clock, timer, and max speed all in one. The next project is mounting a light to it. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Rick A, Thanks for the info. I guess I should locate a source for one with a built in light. Have you had any problems with interference on your wireless setup? SteveH | ||
| Rick_A |
No problem...and it is a wire computer...because I was asking myself the same question...and I thought it'd be better to be safe than sorry. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Caboose, I believe you have to complete the circuit of the switch by closing or shorting the connector where the sidestand switch plugs into the harness on the bike. | ||
| Kevt |
For you guys and girls who are concerned about the sensitivity of speedo sensors, and especially those owners who have changed their gearing (or just want to get their speedo reading accurately), I can recommend the Yellow Box speedo re-calibrator. Apparently it contains the sort of filtering devices to protect the sensor. The Yellow box seems like a very high quality unit, manufactured by a electronics expert who's also a motorcycle enthusiast and who obviously knows what he's doing. It's made in Australia, which should be of particular interest to the many Aussie Buellers who change their gearing from the very tall Euro 29/55 ratio which we get here. Furthermore, with parlous the state of the Aussie Dollar, overseas Buellers would be paying about US$100. The unit measures 1 inch by 2 inches. It can be adjusted to .25% accuracy, plus or minus, and also features the ability to simply convert a kph speedo to mph and vice versa, and has a number of other features. It's not "plug and play" so requires cutting into the loom. However if you're not keen on cutting your wiring it's easy to make a plug-in version using Harley parts to make up a pair Deutsch Connectors. Or if you're like me and onto my forth sensor, you can use one of your old fried ones as a donor for the female connector, and made up the male one from Harley parts. I've listed the part numbers below. If you own a workshop manual, page 7-58 will give you details of the connector assembly. I didn't have the special crimp tool, but had no trouble soldering the pins. The Yellow Box wiring colours match the Buell wiring, so it's pretty easy to follow the comprehensive instructions to wire it in. In short, split the Red off to the Red power wire on the Yellow Box, and split the Black off to the Black earth wire on the Yellow Box, take the White from the Yellow Box to the male connector (ie towards the sensor) and join the Green to the White of the donor female connector (that's if your reusing an old one; or take the Green directly to the female connector if you making up a new one). Be very careful to insert the pins in the right place in the sockets. I installed the Yellow Box into a small sealed electronics box and mounted it under the front left side of the tail section, it's something to put in that big vacant space! (mine's a '99 M2, don't know what the space situation would be with an X1). There's a couple of recommendations in the Yellow Box instructions for checking calibrations, I used a stop watch over the accurately marked mileage (kilometer-age?) makers that Aussie authorities thoughtfully place on some freeways. At 80kph, four kilometres should take exactly 3 minutes. I'd changed my rear pulley to a 61 toother, which is a little over 10% change from the Euro gearing, but I found that I had to adjust it by 15%. It goes to show that it was pretty inaccurate on the original gearing ... but most speedos are like this anyway. Overall, I'm very pleased with the unit, and while it's early days yet, the latest sensor is still holding up. Contact Roman at Black Robotics, he's obviously keen to help fellow enthusiasts. Harley Part Numbers for Deutsch Connectors Socket Terminal (need 3) 72191-94 Sealing Pin (need 3) 72195-94 Socket Housing 72113-94BK Pin Terminal(need 3) 72190-94 Pin Housing 72163-94BK Secondary Lock (Pin Housing) 72143-94 Secondary Lock (Socket Housing) 72153-94 (The internal seal is part number 72173-94, but comes with the socket housing so probably only needs to be purchased when it's damaged) | ||
| Nemo |
With daylight savings time here how about some fog lights or driving lights. Will a cheap set of auto lights work, mounting, is there enough power, etc. I thought about a small set of auto lights mounted in the stock mirror locations on vibration dampers for mirrors (have bar end mirrors). | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Nemo, Ping IAMike, he has a set of auto units on his S3. I'm here to tell you, they work really well. He road lead halfway across Nebraska at night on the way back from CO. My stocker M2 light sucked big time in comparison. I just lane staggered, stayed close and used his lights! Brad | ||
| Jmartz |
My original style S1 battery has finaly given up the ghost. It lasted less than 2 years. Now comes the Blast battery kit. I wish all these componenets were as robust as my isolators which are living their 42nd thousand mile. | ||
| Rocketman |
Jose : I praised the shit outta the Red Top 20 battery I bought from Demon Tweeks in the UK. I did notice it dropped in performance after 6 months of use though. I was convinced the thing was not as it should be so I asked for a replacement under the warranty terms. However, I bought an Optimate charger which seemed to have sorted it, so I rang Demon Tweeks and told them I'd continue to monitor it rather than make a fool of myself, just incase there was nothing wrong with it except needing a top-up charge. I've now had the Red Top for 18 months and when I returned from the States, a few days before the Buellfest at Cadwell Park, I was suprised to find the battery flat. In the way of preperation for Cadwell, I was going to give the Buell a quick "once over" just to make certain track day usage was going to be trouble free. Key in the igniton, what's this , no power ? Turns out the battery was as flat as a witches tit ! So I attempt to recover it with the Optimate but it's not even taking a charge. I call up Demon Tweeks and I'm told I have to pay for a new battery before the warranty claim can be sorted. I part with £80 for a replacement, and return the dodgy battery. 4 weeks later and I'm now dealing with the manufacturer, DMS Technologies (who up until now have been rather pleasant), and I'm now speaking to their Technical Director(yep, sez he's got shares in the company) who doesn't want to refund my money because he claims the Buell has discharged the battery to 0v and therefore damaged it permanently. I gave this guy the full nine yards on how I've maintained my Buell and its battery. Told the story about the warranty issue, yada yada, but this guy was such a jerk he wouldn't change his mind. What really pissed me off more than anything else was he told me he'd been dealing in batteries for more than 20 years and his judgement was based on his expert opinion. I asked him what tests he'd done as an expert, and apart from recovering it to only 65% capacity on a fancy charger\tester, he'd done nothing. I asked him what it looked like inside because the case was swollen as if the plates had contacted and buckled, and he tells me he's not looked inside it. The next best bit though was this experienced guy has never heard of an Optimate. Anyway, after mucho threats of legal action, he still wouldn't budge, but better, he told me to take it up with Demon Tweeks as they were the suppliers, therefore clearing his responsibility. True, this is the legal required route, but he was in power to authorise the warranty. Anyway, Demon Tweeks stepped up to the plate within about 5 minutes of conversation. Conclusion, dry cell batteries are not what they claim to be. Incidentally, DMS Technologies buy the Red Top in component form from Hawker, so I am lead to believe ! What quality Hawker produces I can't say, but DMS have gone way down in my opinion, if nothing else because their customer relations, coming from a company director too, really suck. Rocket in England | ||
| Jmartz |
Be it as it may, Rocket, even with a shortened life these gel batteries are a beter deal than their water a counterparts. Gone are the rusted battery boxes and their sorroundings as well as any sort of maintenance and if you ever drop the bike nothing is going to drip out. Too bad is has to be a new one every season and a half. Jose | ||
| Tripper |
Jose, I did the Blast conversion right after getting the bike home, and am very pleased after 15 months and 12200 miles. Last winter it sat for as long as 5 weeks and cranked it over no problemo. I do not use trickle chargers. Hey, I even like the look of the regulator on the side. | ||
| Jmartz |
Our bikes will soon be twins in that respect... | ||
| Buellzebub |
only problem is the blast battery conversion kits look fugly, [in a S1] | ||
| Jmartz |
Buellzebub: I agree. I must say tough that the Blast battery is easier to get out of there for cleaning and maintenance and I sort of like the regulator on its side. I had been thinking of moving it to the front as other models but not anymore. jose | ||
| Jmartz |
SELF CANCELLING SIGNAL FLASHER A while back someone posted the name of a company that manufactured such a device. I was wondering if someone has been using one of these and what they thought about it. My blood boils every time I ride a HD. In this day of overwhelming iterest in motorcyle safety I cannot understand why this feature is not fitted to all motorcycles especially buells which are made by HD that already has a functioning unit used in all their models. It is also quite surprising that no one on this board with a motorcycle sporting an electronic speedo has ever mentioned adding the module from say a Sportster. I have all the parts for this conversion but can't proceed until the bottom end needs servicing because my cases are not drilled for the hall effect sensor. | ||
| Mikej |
My S2 has self-canceling turn signals, and I can't say I like them. For one thing I haven't quite figured out the magic formula for what triggers then to cancel automatically. Sometimes they'll only blink for 10 seconds or so, other times they'll blink for 30 or more seconds, once I'm certain they blinked for over a minute while I sat at a non-responding traffic light. There have been several occaisions where I turned on the left signal, only to have it cancel before I made the turn and I had to re-hit the button to turn it back on again - not good in the interest of safety. Near as I can figure, the self canceling feature somehow reads off either the clutch or throttle or brake light, or some combination thereof. I do like the signals on the M2 though, just hit the center release button and they go off, quick and easy. On your electronic speedo comment, are you talking about the speedo sensor off a Sportster that goes into the top of the tranny case? If so, then that is the same sensor currently used on all Buells with electronic speedos. I've considered converting the M2 from an electronic speedo to a manual one with the front axle drive for the speedo cable just to get around the blowing sensor issue. | ||
| Aaron |
Mike: The only input to the module (other than the buttons) is a reed switch from within the speedo that gives it distance travelled. Sitting still, they'll never time out. Moving timeouts vary with speed, although I've never figured out the exact relationship. One of the keys to using them successfully is to hold the button until you're ready for the timer to start running, then release. You can also disconnect that reed switch line (white with green stripe if memory serves) and you'll have full manual push on/push off control with the button, no time or distance in the equation. I seem to remember there's also a way to make them into a pure timer function (without distance) as well, but I can't remember what it is exactly ... possibly ground that wire? AW | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks Aaron, Next time I'm out riding I'll be a little more observant and see if I can figure out what the Magic distance is. I won't talk about trying to find the fuse box on the S2.  MikeJ (off to class) | ||
| Jmartz |
Mikej: I want self cancelling so that I can have signals. I'm a cager and cages self cancell. When I turn the darn things on my bike some fellow rider miles or days away tells me my signals are flashing. A few times I've had a car jump in front of me because they thought I was turning. The last time that happend I excised the stupid crab eyes from the bike and that was 5 years ago. | ||
| Peter |
Jose, I know the feeling. Sometimes I find I'm doing the speed limit and I'm still in second gear beacause I forgot to change up. I wish Buells had an auto option like my car.  PPiA | ||
| Ocbueller |
Anyone know the P/N for a speedo sensor? Does it carry the same number as the sportster? The local H/D dealer is 50 miles closer than the Buell dealer. SteveH | ||
| Az_M2 |
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to order Buell parts through HD dealers? | ||
| Mikej |
Jmartz, You might be able to splice in an automotive self cancelling relay thingy, some hotrodders and jeepers use them on older rigs that don't have the signal arm on the steering column. Ocbueller, P/N 74402-95 is the number of the last one I put on my M2. (Just happened to have the empty bag sitting near the desk here with the dead sensor next to it.) Az_M2, You can order the common parts thru HD dealers, you just have to fool them by saying the parts are for a Sportster, they'd probably even order Buell parts for your "Sportster" if you told them you wanted the "Buell high performance parts".  | ||
| Reepicheep |
OCbueller... I don't know the part number, but it is the same part as the sportster part. I got my last one from the local harley dealer. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Thanks Gents! Steve H | ||
| Jst |
Does anyone know if a tach from an S1 will work on a '99 M2? I'm more concerned about electrical hook up than the mount itself. JT '99 Em Too '01 Insanity | ||
| Peter |
S1 is mechanical. You will need a drive unit and cable from your front wheel as well. PPiA | ||
| Blake |
Peter: You are posting too dang early again. Go get some cafe and try again mate. I'd answer, but I don't know. I think a tach from an S1 will work on a newer bike. Not 100% sure though. |
