| Author | Message | ||
     Raticalbuell |
J & Sparky, Thanx for the input. I know that it isn't being cut. I'll get a new turn signal tonight and see what happens. I'll let u know. | ||
| Mikej |
Copied from the main discussion board, seemed too good to let disappear. Thanks 18th.  ===== Anonymous Friday, August 10, 2001 - 10:03 pm Randry, Here are the tests, step by step. All testing must be done with a known good battery, charged and load tested. Any thing less is a waste of your time. Using Vdc check across the battery posts. Red to (+) black to (-) with the bike reving at a steady 2000 RPM. You should see 13.8-15 Vdc if the battery is charging. No? Disconnect stator two-prong lead. (On Buells located just above the remote shock canister) Using ohms x 1 you should see 3.5-3.8 ohms between the two sockets. Yes? Stator not shorted. No? Higher means stator possible shorted to ground, lower means insulation between windings shorted to each other. (A true "short" circuit) Using ohms x 1 check resistance from each socket to any engine ground (cases), should read infinite ohms (no continuity). Yes (infinite) = stator not grounded, NO (continuity) = grounded stator and time to replace stator. Next using Volts a/c between the two sockets check for about 32-36 Volts a/c per 1000 RPM. Yes = stator doing its job. What next? All leads plugged back in and tie wrapped. Using ohms x 1 red lead on the shinny top part of the regulator fins, Black to any engine ground. Ideal would be 1 ohm or less. No = bad regulator ground. If high resistance there, remove regulator and using scotch - bright pad to clean the base of the regulator and its mating surface of any paint. (grounding washers here = good) Also remove the dedicated ground wire from the back of the regulator and clean it under the wire ring. After all that, go back to the second step above. Got 13.8 - 15 Vdc? Yes and go ride! If all the above checks good, there are other things to check. Follow the third wire off the regulator back to the main curcuit breaker looking for breaks / cuts in the wire. Check the main CB for corrosion or a broken ring terminal. Remove the ground cable from the battery and the frame, use Scotch Bright again on both the battery terminal and the frame connection point. Between the frame and the swingarm mount block, there is a braided ground strap, is it all dirty, crudy, and corroded? Yes, change it. No, remove it and get out the scotch Bright pad again. Note: All of the above done from memory, if some of the figures are off by a ohm, volt, or RCH don't jump on me correcting. Look the figures up and give them to Randry. If none of the above gets you on the road, purchase one case of your favorite adult beverage and JUST GET DRUNK!, but don't ride your bike after doing so. Best of luck, 18th letter | ||
| Skeptic |
The BRAG curse? I just became the Director of our local BRAG chapter last week, and since then, have had 3 failures of my 1800 Mile, out-of-warranty 2000 M-2. My rotor is warped (see brakes page) My rear spark plug disintegrated, leaving 80% of the tower in the rear cylinder (see engine mechanical page) My speedo quit today. Is there an easy way to determine if it is the speedo or sensor or wiring that failed? Does anyone have a schematic of the sensor or speedo? I have the harness wiring diagram in the service manual. Does anyone have a spare speedor and/or sensor for sale cheap? | ||
| Chrisg |
Does the literature that comes with the sensor K&N sells for the power commander specify what each of the leads are? I'm putting a mixture gauge on my M2 and I sourced the same Bosch sensor from Autozone, but no indication of which lead is which. Can anyone help me out? Thanks | ||
| Johnnybravo |
my speedo sensor craped out on me again the second time in 4 months the bike is in perfect running order, i only did work to the carb, jet, ideler screw, etc. any ideas, tony | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Johnny, Read stuff above from a couple weeks ago...me and reepicheep had a lengthy discussion about this. No 100% explanation yet. I was going to build his filter but local radio shack was useless so I took plan B and ran a sperate 12v lead to the sensor to isolate it from the IGN circuit. Time will tell whether it makes a difference. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Johnnybravo |
so you just ran it on a seprate/ direct circut any mods or just a straight 12 volt sorce? i got my new one an i hope it don't crap out on me on my way to homecoming | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Yep. I used one of the unused fuses in the fuse block. Jumped from the "acc" 12v circuit w/ a 15 amp fuse. Ran straight to the 3 place deutsch connector. I pulled the stock 12v wire from the connector, taped it up and shoved back into the wiring harness to protect it, prevent shorts, and give a clean look. Who knows if will actually do anything since there is no definative cause for the failure(s). Couple things to bear in mind, the sensor itself is a POS (they regualarly fail in both sportsters and buells); some of us, me included, had issues w/ sudden high failure rates...I was going through one every other month, which in no way is normal or acceptable. Time will tell if this will do anything to help my sensors live longer. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Svangeldern |
Help! I was on my way back from the Broome-Tioga MX National on my '97 S1 when I noticed my blinkers were not working. As the gloom of night approached I discovered my tail light, stop light and spedo light were out also. At a gas station I discovered the accesories fuse was blown and replaced it but as soon as I turned the key on, the new fuse blew as well. (I made it home but I was amazed at the number of ways people driving cars,while traveling at 80 MPH on an interstate, will try to tell a motorcyclists he has no tail light). Tonight I put a multi-meter between the org/wht wire side of the fuse and ground and sure enough there was continuity. To try and isolate the problem I disconected all the connectors to the front (p1-p6) and rear (P11) of the bike and still had continuity to ground on the "main harness" (both ends checked out fine). I started cutting tie wraps until the harness was free from the frame and I could move it around. No luck. Any ideas as to where to look next or do I have to yank the harness out for closer inspection? Thanks, Steve | ||
| Chuck |
Steve, try removing all of the light bulbs from your tail light and turn signals; and try your tests again. | ||
| Blake |
But Chuck, if he disconnected all the connectors, the bulbs would be isolateded from the main harness, wouldn't they? I think that by "both ends checked out fine" Steve meant that the wiring outside of the harness (bulbs included) were okay. | ||
| Svangeldern |
Blake......your correct. From the front connectors forward and the rear connector back is O.K. The short is in the center section of the harness somewhere, I think. I'm going to do some more digging tonight. Steve | ||
| Chuck |
- oh -  | ||
| Tricklidz |
I just replaced my rear directional lights with L.E.D. lights mounted behind the screens in the bodywork. It's a 97 S3. I left the fronts stock for now. The directionals (frt and rear) now flash faster...about twice the speed. I don't mind it, but I'd like to know how to get them to flash regular speed..(for "Police" reasons!!) I know the L.E.D.s are wired different internally, but from there I'm lost!! Any Ideas?? ps. If I attach the stock light back up all is fine. Thanks in advance, Steve | ||
| Svangeldern |
Steve, American Sport Bike sells a "load equalizer" which I think solves this problem. About $30. Steve | ||
| Al_Lighton |
I have one of those equalizers that I'm not using, will sell it for 25% less than Tat's current price if your want it. Was only on my bike for a month or so. Works as advetised. Al | ||
| Svangeldern |
 Aha! Found it! The connector for the rear brake switch was just toutching the frame. Over time, vibration caused the paint on the frame to wear away and cause the short. Thanks, Steve  | ||
| Tricklidz |
Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 03:45 pm I used a Hella #87712 Heavy Duty flasher in place of the stock unit...Blinkers now flash correct speed.. Oh, by the way..the LED lights that I used fit right behind the screens. Attached with heavy duty Velcro-type material (??) and one machine screw. Had to do some cutting of the plastic tool area under seat..97 S3. Lights- NAPA #15000A amber LED marker light. Plugs right into stock wiring. Looks NEAT!! let me know if anyone needs more info. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Steve, You got a picture of it? Flashing? Did the Hella unit come form Napa,and did it plug right in? Al | ||
| Tricklidz |
Al, No, I think so..call them.. Yes. It plugs right in. I didn't even bother removing the old one, (as the Hella has no attachment point), just reached behind right bodywork, over battery, removed wires, plugged in new one and taped to a hose that runs into my "trick" (easy to make) breather bottle---(let's not even go there!!).. Ping me if ya need more info, Steve | ||
| Raticalbuell |
Does anyone know about the battery strap(hold down) for a 97' S1? Local dealer said they discontinued that hold down due to the fact that Buell can no longer get that battery. Does anyone know where I can get one? | ||
| Good_Boy |
Doas anyone have the same problem as me ? Kph or mph does work fine (except for a 10% error due to the ratio change) on my 01 M2. RPM does not work that fine. Erratic needle, when approaching the redline (5500 to 6800), especially on load. I mean, bike on the sidestand, you can rev all you want, needle moves smoothly. Trying to Accelerate on full throttle, rather in 2nd or third gear, makes the needle jump everywhere, like over 7000... Stock bike, european specs. 4000 kms on the clock, 6 weeks old... Grrrrrrrr | ||
| Hans |
Good Boy: Easiest thing to do is cleaning the sensor. Maybe more sludge is thrown up when riding and less when out of gears. You need an inch imbus key for the single screw that fix the sensor in the hole on top of the tranny. Tight fit because the rubber ring. Was the gear oil changed (already two times) ? Next inspect wires and contacts. Good luck. Hans. | ||
| Javahed |
OK, tonight, while driving my 2000 X1, my turn signals just quit. No light, no sound, nothing. (amazingly enough, just after I noticed this, a police officer showed his well working red and blue lights and let me know about the problem -- neat how it always works out like that)All the other lights and all of the fuses are fine. Before I tear apart my wiring harness, has this happened to anyone else. If one blinker goes bad, doesn't the one that works on the same side light up without blinking instead of this bi-lateral light death? Off to check connections and bulbs, but if anyone knows a different answer to this problem, please sound off. Thanks! Dan | ||
| Xfudog |
Javahed, Exact problem with my '01 X1. What happened was I put the seat back on wrong, the front "toungue" did not entered into that metal bracket. Then when I got on, the extra "curve" created came down hard on the flasher relay. The crack was under the relay. The body of the relay separated from a metal bracket used to attached to a bolt on the ECM. Looking downward, I saw nothing unusual, and dismissed it as the cause, then spent a couple of days troubleshooting for nothing. Cost was 6 bucks. I then installed the new relay upsidedown for more clearance from the seat. | ||
| Javahed |
Thanks for the info Xfudog. I went out to check the bike this morning and wow! Everything was working I cannot explain it, but hey, working is working I guess that the Buell gnomes are playing tricks on me. Have fun! Dan | ||
| Chrisg |
Javahed, This happens to my '00 M2 occassionally after washing her. After a few hours to dry the signals work again. Apparently water can short circuit the flasher. Chris G. | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Javahed, Same here, 2000 M2. Nobody has been able to fix. Tony D | ||
| Javahed |
Hmmm, time to start gooping on the silicone Thanks for all the replies! Dan | ||
| Caboose |
How do I disable the sidestand interlock on my 2001 X1. Simply unpluging it doesn't work....the engine dies as soon as the clutch is let out with the bike in gear. The reason I'm asking is that I did a track day last week and my side stand was draging in every left hander. Not very confidence inspiring at race speeds when you feel it grinding! |
