| Author | Message | ||
     Swede |
Aaron, does your "not able to share" data show that the Dyna2000 on curve 1 gives a boost in the low/middle rpm's? Thats's what I am experiencing without any dynocharts to back that up... Newfie, go for a Dyna2000. It will boost your acceleration. And you will be happy for a while... Need for speed  Anyone know max advance of the stock ignition??? Ignition curves seems to be a well kept secret. | ||
| Jmartz |
Swede: The advanve curves of several HD modules were published in a B2W article a while back. I have a copy of it if you are interested. Max adv on the stock Lightning motor is 35, if memory serves me right. I run 30r and 31f with incresed compression and headwork. | ||
| Swede |
Jmartz, YES PLEASE! bjorn.kullman@sincotron.se | ||
| Aaron |
Swede: no. | ||
| Jmartz |
Swede: There is not a lot to gain from timing adjustments over the factory settings if your motor is not modified. If you put your bike on a dyno rotating the pick up plate might allow you to optimize your timing and gain some power on the top. Things like single fire do little more than drain your wallet and as AW has shown with a little trickery you can get the stock module to mimick the "Race" unit. On my motor (see my profile) I run a programmable module with a faster rise and less total advance. The stock curve resulted in no increase in power at all with a lot of heat being generated. You are welcome to this curve if you ping me privately. Jose | ||
| Torqd |
Anybody setup a 99 x1 with a pcIII white brothers pipe K&N Stock ECU If so let me know what map you used....even if you bike has the supertrapp IDS let me know the map that worked out for you. | ||
| Swede |
Jmartz: Thanks again for the great B2W article. I have made a comparison of the Buell "race" curve and the Dyna2000 curves 1 and 2. The race curve is initially more agressive than any of the Dyna curves, but from 1500 rpm´s curve 1 is the most agressive. It did give me more respons in the lower rpm regions, however I did experience minor pinging around 3000-3500 rpms. It is in these areas the difference between curve 1 and race curve are the biggest. Dyna curve 2 is not as agressive as the race curve. | ||
| Swede |
 | ||
| Jmartz |
Gald to have helped Sweede. | ||
| Buelliedan |
If anybody is looking at buying a new battery I have a recommendation: The Odyssey battery. This thing is like no other. It uses a dry technology and can be mounted in any position. 2 year warranty as well. Plus you can get it with a metal jacket which surrounds the case which should definately help handle the vibrations our bikes put out!! Some don't like them though because they are red. I put mine in my Red X1 so it looks pretty cool IMHO!! | ||
| Sem1 |
Does anybody have any experience with B2 Smartfire ignition? I had never heard of the thing before I stumbled across it at http://www.directparts.com/. It is part #49-204. Judging by the picture it comes with a cable to connect it to a PC. Now, I am hoping that the thing would be smart enough for you to upload your own ignition curves to it. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Sem1 |
I take the silence as a no. How about HyperFyre then; any experience? Please see http://www.partsmag.com/drag_issue_7_10/v_thunder_7_10/v_thunder_editorial_7_10.html. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Skeptic |
What module is this? I bought it in a lot of parts: Yellow tag#1 says: N0306.Q 00224 Yellow tag#2 says: US15JA120  | ||
| Doc5339 |
What is the best single-fire ignition module to install on a 2000 M2 with the following: Thunder Slide Jet Kit, V&H pipe, Pro Series with K&N filter? What else must I install with the ignition module? | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
To all, i've got a bit of a problem. Riding the bike in on Monday and all of a sudden the ignition started to cut out like I was bouncing off the rev limiter. I was doing about 65 mph and just over 3000 RPM. The tach was bouncing all over the place. They towed it to the shop and I expected them to tell me I had a bad ignition module, a bad connection or a bad signal out of the motor. They told me the tach was bad and that was causing the problem. Could this be the case? I thought the tach just reported the RPM (voltage) that the ignition module told it. Little help please. v/r TD | ||
| Jakeanvil |
Tony, Mine did the same thing, turned out the battery was internally shorted, my want to check the voltage regulator too... Jake | ||
| Blake |
Tony: What you said. No way a bad tack should cause the ignition to miss. Unless the pickup is bad and also serves to drive the ECM? | ||
| Buellzebub |
Tony: my s1 did the same thing, check all ignition power wires and grounds very carefully, its time consuming but it fixed me up without spending a dime. i think hd may wire that circuit a little weird too! S1 withdrawal sux | ||
| S1_Buell |
My S1 seems to have some kind of vent tube that looks like it is routed from just behind the base of the rear jug to above my battery then blows into the air on the right side of the battery. Lately I have been riding wheelies a lot farther than I used to and oil is blowing out of that tube on my rear fender and on the rear tire when I ride one about 1/4 of a mile or more. Is that tube supposed to be connected to something? I can't find it in my shop manual. It is not the vent tube that is attached to the top of the oil tank. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Nick | ||
| Aaron |
Nick, that's the tranny/primary vent. They blow oil when the primary is overfull. If you're certain you didn't overfill it (i.e. the bottom of the clutch spring when the bike is level), be advised that trannies can overfill by themselves if the sprocket shaft seal is bad. If that's the case, it's not hard to change the seal. I'd change the spacer while you're in there, since a groove can get worn into it, compromising the sealing. Another thing to look for is any kind of a dip in the routing of the hose. It will allow oil to build up, and later get puked out all at once. Good luck, AW | ||
| S1_Buell |
Thanks for the quick reply Aaron! This may be a repeat message because I tried posting this earlier but I don't see it yet. Could that tube fill up because of long distant wheelies? Thanks Nick | ||
| Anon_R |
Tony, It is common for a bad tach to cause such problems. The tach reads off the primary (trigger) side of the coil. If it shorts to ground it kills the trigger signal to the coil. When diagnosing ignition problems on bike with a coil mounted, FIRST thing I do is disconnect them. Many times the tack is the cause. R | ||
| Aaron |
Nick, that's pretty impressive, quarter mile long wheelies, and I can sure see how that could cause the issue too. Check your level, if it's okay you can probably chalk it up to the long wheelies. Maybe a re-route of that tube would address it. | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Anon_R, Checked with the guys today and that's basically what they told me. Can they just cap the wire and let me ride the bike until my new tach comes in? I use the thing as my primary transportation...and to be perfectly honest, I'm tired of dealing with traffic on four wheels. v/r Tony | ||
| Anon_R |
Tony, Sure, just unplug it and if the ignition works right it will be fine disconected. Plus you know for sure that it was the cause of the problem. R | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Anon_R, Picked it up today, sans tach, and it ran great...things that make you say hmmm.... Apparently, it was exactly what you said it was. Tach is on order. Who knows with Buell parts support. Anyway, appreciate it!! v/r Tony | ||
| Damion |
To all, I just got back from a 5 day touring ride through Northern Arizona & Southern Utah on my 2000 X1. All told about 1100 miles and the X1 did pretty well. I had one problem though. By the 2nd day I had a problem with the bike running irregularly. The problem occurred every time after a rest stop or overnight stay. The engine would start ok, but after heading out and getting about 5 or so miles at highway speeds, running became a little irregular and I started loosing some power. The engine noise would go from the normal smooth rumbling at 70mph to spurts of flat blatting (similar to what you get when twisting the throttle hard in a high gear). This would go on for maybe 10-15 minutes or so and then generally go away. Sometimes during these episodes I’d get the engine light turning on while running. In that case I’d pull off and turn off the engine for a few minutes. After restarting, the bike would generally run normally. Letting the bike idle longer before heading out would generally make the symptoms less severe. It would seem as if the bike is having some problems running within some intermediate temperature range. I considered that maybe I was getting poor quality fuel from some of the small desert towns, so I tried octane boosting additives to no affect. No obvious problems with the battery terminals or the spark-plug wires. Anybody seen this problem before? Any ideas? My 2000 X1 has the Vance&Hines muffler, K&N filter, and race ECM. Thanks, Damion | ||
| Blake |
Sounds fuel injection related. Maybe one of your sensors (temperature or oxygen) is marginal? | ||
| Tim |
Have you checked the tank vent? Tim | ||
| Damion |
Thanks for the reply. I thought about the sensors, but I thought that if the sensors got an out-of-bounds or faulty reading, the ECM would record the fault. The ECM does not indicate it has a stored fault (at least I don't thnk it does). I have not checked the tank vent yet, but that's something to look at. Is there also a possibility of a bad seal somewhere in the intake? Is there an easy way to check? |
