| Author | Message | ||
     Buelliedan |
Pangalactic, As Aaron said I had a horrible time with the Cometic rubber gaskets. Destroyed one set(but it did keep me out of the hail storm) and I had to use a ton of marine sealant to hold the second set in place while putting it back together. I will never use Cometics again! Get the James gaskets. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I notice nobody has answered Leveg's question about dual-plugging so I'll take a shot. My riding buddy has them and now questions the idea. He used the HI-4E last year and thought that erratic firing may have been the cause of his blown motor. Maybe not. He's switched to the Dyna ignition and is happier. 28 degrees total advance is what he was told to use as a starting point, I believe, but don't rely on my opinion. The slot on the timing plate needs to be extended a bit to get there. Searching the Archives in the ignition section here might bring up some info. Good luck. | ||
| Rocketman |
Oh well, I run HI4E in single fire mode and it has never missed a beat. You put it on, dial it in, and that's it, never touch it again (unless you want to). It also sits very neatly just above the fuse holder. As for its performance, Aaron has a lot to say about ignition components, and he's done dyno testing too. From my understanding on the subject, which is limited to others opinions mostly, I find it a lot like quality hi-fi systems. I mean, who the hell can tell the difference between one system and another. Are your ears really that good ? And yes, the rev limiter does work  Rocket in England | ||
| Aaron |
IMO, ignition is one of those things where people tend to spend a lot of money trying to fix something that ain't broke. Not to say there aren't motors out there that benefit from fancy ignition pieces and dual-plugging. Hell, I have one. It also has astronomical cylinder pressure and a great big dome filling the chamber. There are reasons why it's stock pieces are inadequate. But take your basic 10.5:1 hot rodded Buell street motor. Dyno it back to back with the stock module/coil/wires, and a typical hot-dog single-fire setup. If you're like me, you'll wonder why you spent all that money. Bottom line, in my experience there's nothing really wrong with the stock Buell pieces at this modification level (note that Sportster pieces may be a different story, especially with respect to an inadequate rev limit). As Ron would say, work on the thing that's constraining the motor. AW | ||
| Rocketman |
Ah yes, ain't that the truth. However, every time I remove the seat unit and fuel tank, and I expose that gorgeous nickel plate frame, it looks even more spectacular with that fancy looking HI4E tacked on the side. Even if it doesn't bring anything to the party, to the casual onlooker, it looks a million bucks Money to burn ? I didn't pay for it !!!! Seriously though, I have encountered problems with spark plug failure at not enough miles per plug. What usualy occurs is, at lower rpm I've had misfires that clear as you rev up. Tried Champion, H-D, Splitfire and SE plugs and I've always ended up going back to NGK's. I've also had one stock HT lead failure. The resistance went way out, which resulted in an erratic tickover and poor cold running. I've used Taylor wires too, but the wrong bend in the supressor cap meant it rubbed itself against the fuel tap. I tried the Buell wires too, but have you seen the quality construction of them ? They might work well, but they look cheap to me. I'm now using Accell 8.8mm wires. Yeah, the bright yellow ones, and I've had no problems with them. Nothing to do with ignition modules, I know But looks are important, especially on the street ! Rocket in England | ||
| Jmartz |
While doing general maintenace and cleaning of my bike I took off the header pipe to see if I could remove baked on dirt and stains more efectively. To my surprise I discovered that that exahust ports had caked on carbon deposits are were no longer smooth. The motor's top end has only 10,000 miles since it was Nallinazed. Not a long time before tare downs to keep the power up. Plugs look good and range to reserve is ca. 140 mi. so I don't think its running rich. Jose | ||
| Leveg |
Jose When I stripped my engine at about 10,000 since new, one head was heavily caked with carbon in the chamber and exhaust port. When this head was stripped, it had been assembled from new without valve stem seals. Could also be caused by a damaged seal, or a seal which has come loose from the top of the guide and is moving up and down on the valve stem - effectively pumping oil through the guide, or it could be getting oil from elsewhere i.e. ring/bore. Look for blue smoke from the exhaust when starting the engine hot, or under hard acceleration. Generally, fuel deposits will be fluffy, hard deposits result from burnt oil. Greg | ||
| Jmartz |
Leveg: Thanks for the tip. That is, however, the kind of thing there is nothing to do about. It cannot be checked w/o serious engine disassembly and once there replacement is the cure. I had Nallin reduce the valve guide outer diameters and install these supposedly better stem seals. They were tight and properly installed when I 1st viewed them, but as I said, not much to do if they need repalcemnt. ...and I was under the impression that I could get away with 25,000 top emd jobs...not if I want optimal performance... Jose | ||
| Rempss |
Anyone have any experience with the Nallin 1250cc kit? I am going to have him Stage 2 my heads and saw this there. Looks neat, but any real improvement? Thanks, Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
Remps: No experience but if I was building anew I would certainly choose those. According to Nallins published tests the new combo stage2/1248 is worth and xtra 5 or so HP over the the groping I am running which tops out at ca. 103 | ||
| Tripper |
Where is the info published? His web site has nothing on it. Price? | ||
| Rempss |
Tripper - http://www.nallinracing.com/1250.htm If you go to nallinracing.com you will find it. Jeff | ||
| Schemky |
Torque Specs? Could someone please list the torque specs for the rocker boxes? I currently have the rear box off and have some James gaskets on order. Hopefully this will cure the leak for a LONG TIME!! | ||
| Jmartz |
Tripper...Go for it... | ||
| Sportyeric |
four large bolts (1/2" socket): 15-18 ftlbs three 7/16 socket bolts: 10-13 ftlbs two allen head bolts 90-120 inchlbs top cover bolts: 10-13 ftlbs Tighten the box down so that it seats on the gasket evenly. You won't be able to get a torque wrench on all of them but once you do one, you can go by feel on the others. Good luck. | ||
| Schemky |
Sportyeric, Thanks a bunch, I'll name my next step-child after you!! | ||
| Roblasonja |
Since my mom doesn't read this board, I feel I can ask you guys a question without alot of "What the hell were you thinking?" responses. I was out on the autobahn a couple days ago, coming home from work and traffic was REALLY light. Long story short...I took the Buell up to 140mph and held it there for about 20 seconds. Yesterday morning when I rode the bike around at fairly low speeds (around the city) I noticed that the engine makes more "noise" than it used to. There's a kind of rattle now that wasn't there before. Goes up and down with the RPMs. Sort of like when you have too many miles on the oil and it's thinned out, so you change the oil and the noise goes away. Well I changed the oil today and the noise didn't go away. (there weren't any parts in the oil by the way) The bike isn't down on power and still idles normally and it isn't smoking. The noise isn't bad enough that someone else might notice, but I do. I'm worried that this high speed scheisse is going to do bad things to my S1. There are only about 20k miles on the bike so it's too young to die. Could I have sprained a wrist pin? Lost my bearings? Yanked my crank? Is high speed driving inherantly bad for Buells? How do these Hardley Davidson motors feel about extended jaunts close to redline? I appreciate your responses unless: You tell me to slow down, You tell me to buy a BMW and just fit in. Rob in Deutschland | ||
| Peter |
You mean you haven't bought your BMW yet..............?????? PPiA | ||
| Mikej |
Rob, Check your primary chain slack. Easy, makes noise that changes with the rpm when loose, and easy to rule out if that isn't it. | ||
| Hoser |
Rob: Your engine sprocket nut may be loose , the primary cover has to come off to check this. I have seen this happen to a few bikes and can damage the splines on the crank. While you are in there , update the tensioner shoe to the latest part. All: A service bulletin has been released about engine sprocket nuts backing off ( finally !?!? ) , apparently ? a number of engines were assembled with an incorrect nut , causing torque reading that may allow the nut to loosen !. Affected models are late 2000 and early 2001 twins and singles. The bulletin is B-043. What bothers me is this does not address my concern about the possibility of the engine sprocket nut backing off on ANY ! model year , " correct " nut or not ! Jeff | ||
| Rippin |
I would like to install my N-6 cams in my 01M2 that I had in my 99. I have heard the crankshaft gear is different and they won't work. Anyone had any experience with this? I really liked em in my 99 and mis the upper end pull it gave her. We have a big run this Sunday to Balltown Ia and I'd like to change them this week for it but am scared I'll get stuck with cams that will be of no use. Thanks for all the help. Also thanks for info on why mine seemed to vibrate more than it should. Seems as though just raising the needle one position and going up one on the main on my 42 really smoothed it out. Go figure! Anyway thanks. Ryan | ||
| Aaron |
Ryan: in 2000, Buell went to a different gear cut on the pinion gear and the drive gear which sits on the #2 cam. It's called "High Contact Ratio". They propogated this change to all the gear teeth that interconnect the cams in '01. They run quieter, eliminating the need for special fitted sets of cam gears for each motor. An HCR gear is totally different. You can't mix and match. Since cams are generally changed in sets, the only place you're likely to encounter this issue is where the #2 cam drive gear meets the pinion gear. N6's, as with all the Andrews cams, should be available in either standard or HCR configuration. If you get the old style, you *can* send your original factory fitted cams and gearcase cover to them and they'll sell you a fitted set of whatever you're buying. I did this once and it came out good and quiet. Or, if you're updating or backdating a particular motor, you can make sure to get the proper pinion gear. Or, you can use a press and remove the drive gear from the #2 cam and put it on your new #2 cam. Just mark it carefully to keep from messing up your cam timing. I've done this successfully multiple times on both Sportsters and Big Twins, it's not that hard. I like it because it keeps that factory fit for at least that one connection. You can also intentionally alter cam timing to move your powerband around. Good luck, AW | ||
| Roblasonja |
Chapter two in the high speed White Lightning thing... Mikej: I checked the primary chain. It was a little loose so I tightened it to specs this morning. Noise is still there. Hoser-jeff: My S1WL is a '98. Is it still a possiblity that I have a screw loose? (nut loose...whatever) My sound is honestly more like a tappet noise. Is there anything in the valve train that might get bent at high RPMs, remembering that I did not bounce off the rev limiter, I just went REAL fast for a few seconds. This is why we buy motorcycles for God sakes... Thanks again... Rob | ||
| Aaron |
Stolen from another list ... For all you guys doing PERFORMANCE upgrades to Evos... Harley has replaced the two fiber gaskets under the lower rocker box with a one-piece unit to try to relieve the continuing problem of Evo rocker box oil leaks. I'm betting this is a TC88-style embossed metal gasket. The new part number is 16800-84. Each dealership will be getting an initial shipment of 100 and they're supposed to go through all their Evo (XL, Buell, and BT) gasket kits, the old HD 1200 piston kit, and the XL chrome kit, and replace the two-piece ones with these new ones. Have your dealer look for Parts and Accessories Bulletin #709. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks Aaron, A couple of week late, but I'm picking up set anyway. I know I'll have to replace them again. Hmmm, good excuse to do a through polish job on the buggers... It is getting toward the end of the riding season. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blake (or your standin) Can we get these part and bulletin numbers at the top of this section? Thanks | ||
| Aaron |
Brad: I'm only a week or so late with that info! It was about 3 weeks ago I said wait a couple weeks. AW | ||
| Xgecko |
Aaron does this apply to the Blast as well??? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Ok, for whoever is keeping track of these things, add me to the following clubs: Broken primary chain adjuster club Leaking crank seal club Leaking stator grommet club Bad intake valve seals club Base/rocker box gasket leak club Oil lines rubbing against the swingarm carrier club Intake manifold leak, frequent flyer bonus, club And just in case, about to get into a pissing contest with the extended warranty people club Other than that it runs great! When it runs...... | ||
| Aaron |
Tony: now THAT'S a good question. I don't know. Certainly XL gaskets fit a Blast no problem, but whether or not they'll actually package half an XL set for Blast owners, well, I haven't heard. I suspect the answer is yes. AW |
