| Author | Message | ||
     Caboose |
Well....I found the problem. As I suspected it was a loose connection. Found it at the 30A circuit breaker under the seat/tank. The black wire from the starter and the red wires from the voltage regulator and key switch/fuse box were slightly loose. Man, that circuit breaker post gets hot when there is a little resistance there! | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Dart, Get your ignition timing adjusted ASAP. It definetly sounds like it's not set right. If your bike still has the stock jetting, that also makes it worse, change the slow jet from the stock 42 to a 45 and re adjust the idle mixture. My Fuel Injected 99S3T does not ping at all with the 10R12 plugs, unless I'm in traffic with a passenger starting up a hill. Which is to say not very often. | ||
| Blake |
Dart: Also, check for leaks around intake manifold seals. Do this by spraying (misting) water, or WD40, or contact cleaner (my preference) around the intake manifold's three seal areas (at each cyl intake and between carb and manifold) while idling the bike at around 2000 rpm. Any decrease in rpm will indicate a leak. | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Blake or Jose (or Aaron or anyone?) - just bought the NGK plugs to change on my 2000 M2 to help stop the pinging and rattling. Got the DPR8EA9 and the DPR9EA9, intending to run the cooler plug in the rear jug. However the plugs have skinny little screw thread tops, not the fat connectors that the original plugs had and onto which the plug leads clip. As I live in the boonies and all my stuff comes mailorder I cant just go back to the shop with them. Question: am I right to recall that there exists screw-on bobbly bits that will fit the plugs I have to allow the Buell plug leads to clip on them, and that they should have come in the box with the plugs. Or am I completely wrong, and I have the wrong plugs? The pic on the plug box shows the plug with a normal top (ie a top the same as on the bike's original plugs). Can anyone enlighten me before I call the dealer. I would rather have a 'discussion' with them with me NOT arguing from a position of sheer ignorance. Thanks. | ||
| José_Quiñones |
you should be able to unscrew this top from your old spark plug and use it in the new ones, as long as they are the same thread. | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Jose - thanks for the prompt response. Yes I tried that but the old plug's tops seem bonded on....they are the OEM (HD) plugs and they dont seem to want to shift. I assumed they would loosen with a twist of the mole wrench....but not a bit of it. I cant even see a gap that would indicate that the top can be unscrewed. My attempt at it only removed metal from the plug's top. Guess I'll try a little harder to unscrew the tops and see what happens......... | ||
| Blake |
JLJ: I have three sets of NGK's that I've been unable to use for the very same reason. I thought a trip to the local auto parts store would solve the problem. I've had no luck finding spare screw-on tips. Apparently NGK sells the plugs with and without the tips designated by a slight part number difference I think. Please let me know if you are able to find a source for the screw on tips. The stock plugs DO NOT have removable tips. | ||
| Swede |
Anyone know if there is a way to override the rev limiter of the race ECM (S1 '98)? I would like to get rid of the limiter totally... Also, anyone with any experience from Autometer's, Dyna's or other makers Shiftminders? /Bjorn, Sweden | ||
| Joem |
According to one source I have, the correct 10R12 replacement is NGK DCPR8E - its reach is a little longer but there is no interference. This plug has the correct terminal stud and uses the same 5/8" socket to install. | ||
| Blake |
Joe: It looks like your P/N is missing the "A-9" (s/b "DCPR8EA-9"). That's the same number as the medium heat NGK listed at the top of the page with the noted addition of the "C" to get the 5/8" socket size. Makes sense that the 5/8" socket size would also have the screw on terminal stud included. Thanks for digging that info up. | ||
| Joem |
Nope. DCPR8E is the correct cross reference plug. The A-9 suffix is used to denote an updated plug... but there is none for the DCPR8E. The A-9 suffix is used for the DPR8E - which will work, but as already described this plug uses the wrong terminal and socket size. Check the NGK Motorcycle product guide at a MC shop... automotive shops typically do not carry the NGK Motorcycle catalog. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks for clarifying that Joe. | ||
| Swede |
Could anyone tell me the color of the wire going from the ECM to the tachometer? I'm gonna hook up an Autometer shift-Light. /Bjorn | ||
| Swede |
Found it. | ||
| Swede |
Anyone got any opinions on the Buell race ECM versus Dyna's 2000 system? | ||
| Aaron |
Yes. You need neither. | ||
| Tripper |
Swede, you asked. Meet Mr. Aaron, a nice guy but a little short on time. | ||
| Aaron |
Hey, he didn't ask for details! Swede, Look here for a little data. The race kit module has the same curve and 6800rpm rev limit as your stock S1 module, but doesn't have the slight bit of retard above 6200rpm like the stock piece has. The Dyna 2000 has rev limit settings of 6000, 6500, 7000, and 7500 rpm, and has 4 selectable curves. It will also support single fire if you get a single fire coil. Harley sells it as their "Screaming Beagle Selectable Curve" ignition module. It costs roughly twice what the race kit module costs. I have much more test data but unfortunately, I'm not able to share it right now. The question you need to ask yourself whether or not the current module is constraining your power. Is it's rev limit inadequate? Is it's curve mismatched? If the answer to those questions is no, don't expect a new ignition module to help you. Here's a little piece I *can* share right now:  This is my '90 FXR. It has a Dyna 2000. This is a back to back comparison of single and dual fire modes, with no other changes. Not to say some bikes don't respond to single fire, they do. If it's constraining the power. Clearly it's not at the level of tune on this bike. It's only at about 40hp over stock  . 'Course, there's always the "trick" factor to consider! Best of luck, AW | ||
| Hoser |
Aaron: That pretty much tells the story , personaly I do not like the choice of curves that are programed into the selectable curve dyna/SE modules unless we are talking big twins. Jeff | ||
| Swede |
Aaron, thanks. Happen to have graphic curves/data sheets for the stock and race units? Sure would like to see the Buell units compared to the Dyna2000 if/when you can share that! Hoser, my only experience with the Dyna2000 is on BigTwins where I think it is doing a good job. In what way would the sportster/Buell be different? | ||
| Aaron |
Swede: yes, follow the link in the second sentence of my post, it takes you to a comparison of the stock and race kit modules. | ||
| Rippin |
Aaron, Is it true that the single fire ignitions help to smooth out the vibes? I love my '01 M2 but I hate the shakes! I've got the bar snake and bar ends I also wear gel pad gloves. Not that 50 milers bother me but when we 2up for 300-400 a day it gets to be real pain. Thanks for advice in advance. Ryan | ||
| Aaron |
Ryan, I can't say for sure. I will say this, though. I have, on more than one occasion, switched the Dyna 2000 back and forth between single and dual fire mode with the engine running, at various rpms, looking specifically for a change in vibration level, and I've never been able to detect it. BUT ... and this is important ... every time I've done this it's been with a rubber mount bike. It may very well be perceptible on a solid mount. Now before y'all try to tell me that the unit must be power cycled for that switch to take effect, let me tell you, you're wrong. Not only did Dyna tell me that's the only switch that works on the fly, but I proved it to myself by wiring the tach to one side of the coil instead of to the dedicated tach wire. Sure enough, go to single fire mode and the tach reading cuts in half. It may well be that with more overlap and/or more cylinder pressure, the effect becomes more noticeable. When the wasted spark hits the rear cyl, it's in the middle of it's overlap. If the exhaust is drawing right then, the spark could cause a problem. But both of of the bikes I tried this vibration experiment with had reasonable (but streetable) overlap. One was with Lightning cams. AW | ||
| Blake |
Rippin: Your M2 should be darn near silky smooth at highway speeds. It might be worthwhile for you to take a ride on another M2 for comparison's sake. Out of curiosity, how fast are you traveling when you notice the bothersome vibes? | ||
| Az_M2 |
Rippin, My '01 M2 IS silky smooth at anything beyond 1500 rpms. I feel some minor vibration in the pegs between 3500 - 4000 (there is a flat spot in torque, and it seems to be related) and that's it. I would follow Blake's advice, you may have a problem. Chris | ||
| Leeaw |
Az_M2, My 99M2 had the same flat spot and the dealer could not figure it out. I don't think it was related to the V&H, but I ended up trying the race ignition to what it could do, and it cured the problem. Not sure why it did, but maybe you can borrow one and try it out. | ||
| Rippin |
Thanks guys for the input. Mine is by no means silky smooth but it is better than my '99 was and my friend let me ride his '00 M2 and mine is better than his! Maybe after riding more miles that the senses are hightened. I usually cruise in the 3200-3500r range. | ||
| Swede |
Can anyone provide me with the ignition curve of the standard '98 S1 ECM? That is the ignition @ rpm curve, no Dyno stuff. Also looking for same data on the race ECM. Dealers in Sweden doesnt seem to have access to this data. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Please answer me a question. What would installing a race ecm in my 98 S1 do for it? I would like to know before buying one. | ||
| Aaron |
Newfie: the answer to your question can be found here. AW |
