| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Mike, You can siphon the primary lube out thru the clutch inspection cover, but it takes awhile. On one change I removed the side cover, crammed some clear 3/8" tubing in and under the primary chain, started the siphon, and secured the line to the drain pan, then let it drain. Came back in a hour and 95% of the fluid was drained. If the lube is cold it will be sort of like siphoning Maple syrup, but it will work. The replacement tensioner has a thicker plate not so prone to fatigue or breaking. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Mikej: Thanks, that sounds like a better option than pulling the muffler. Sorry to hear about your accident, how are things going with the insurance people? Did you make up your mind on a bike yet? Good luck to you, man. Accidents are a bitch... Mike | ||
| Mikej |
Nope, still in pending mode. I'll be in Detroit Sun-Tues next week. Maybe if I don't answer the phone for a few days it will make the insurance people nervous. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My speedo sensor line filter uses the following parts.. should be able to find them at radio shack. 1) Plain old switching diode. At least 100 volts, 1 amp. Just about any of them should work. Do NOT get a zeener. About $1 2) Inductor (also may be called RF fiter or coil). The bigger the better, but any thicker then a pencil and any longer then 2 inches would likely be overkill and have vibration problems. It will probably be something like 10uH (micro henrys). About $2. Wire as follows: Bike positive voltage lead (red I think) ---> diode (white strip end away from bike and towards sensor) ---> coil (either end) ---> red lead to speedo sensor. You have to cut only one wire, the positive lead (I think it is the red one, but somebody better check). I cut it after the connector, so if it dies I just add that one to the pile of other smoking sensors and the bike is back to stock. Make sure all your connections are soldered, and tightly sealed. Shrink tubing would not hurt, but lots of electrical tape secured by several cable ties would probably last just as well. Try and strain relieve the connections as much as possible and secure things as well as you can. If that inductor is flopping around, the connections won't be long for this world. This is a first order filter (the inductor) and a diode to prevent reverse voltages. Other theoretically superior solutions exist using shunt style regulators and higher order filters, but could break other things as we don't know the rest of the schematic. This setup is as simple as possible and as safe as can be. I did not want to blow a $200 speedo saving a $50 sensor. Again... I do not know the failure mode of this part... I put a scope on it but could only run it in neutral. Some noise appeared, not much, nothing alarming. This approach completely eliminates one potential failure mode (reverse voltage) and lowers the potential of a second (voltage spikes). But it could be a LOT of other things. I my filtered sensor has gone further then the other two non filtered sensors, but until we have 32 samples, that might as well just be luck. If anyone has ANY PROBLEMS AT ALL tracking down parts, just write down what you can find at your local radio shack that you think may be it and ask.... I'll tell you if it is the right part or not. Should be easy to find. I would get part numbers, but that won't help you if your local shack does not stock them, and there are lots of different parts that will all do the same thing. If you are concerned, email me direct (Bill@KilgallonFamily.com) and I will get them, throw them together, post pictures, and mail them to you.... nothing too it. Bill | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Bill, Thanks for the great information. What about using that electronics epoxy stuff to permanently mount the diode and capacitor to a) protect them from the elements and b) provide shock and strain relief on the joints? Is this stuff readily available at radio shack? Small box w/ 2 pigtails to plug directly inline on the 12v+ wire. No cutting required. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Epoxy would be great. I was in "development mode" so I wanted to be able to disect the thing for a post mortem if it died again. Just make sure the epoxy is non - conductive. It has to be in series though (cut red wire and insert this where the cut was), so I don't know how you would do it without making at least one cut in the +12v wire. Don't put it in parallel (between +12 and ground) or you will be looking for fuses immediately...  Bill | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
What I was thinking is pull the pin from the deutsch connector and then having the "device" w/ the correct male/female connectors...sorta a plug-n-play thing. Bad ascii art to follow: OEM setup XXXX -----================ deutsch plug male pin and wire the "device" xxxx ----==XXXXX====== ----====== deutsch male/device/female male pin and wire Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Reepicheep |
I see. That would be easy, as by definition anyone interested in this kludge have at LEAST one extra speedo sensor and associated wiring laying around . Good idea. | ||
| Blake |
I like the cable on my '97 M2. Broke once cause it was dry and kinked; $10 and 5 minutes had it good as new.  I can change final drive ratio without affecting speedo too. Blake (smartass) | ||
| Hoser |
Blake: as long as the front wheel is on the ground. Anyone needing deutsch conectors and parts can find them at your local Caterpillar dealer , take a sample with you ( so you don't look/sound like a buffoon ), hope you find a friendly parts person. Jeff | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Bill, Ok, I'm going to give this a whirl this weekend. My electonics ignorance is showing though...while browsing at radioshack.com to see what's what, I'm totally lost. 1) Plain old switching diode. At least 100 volts, 1 amp. Just about any of them should work. Do NOT get a zeener. About $1 Ok, what type? There's about a dozen types/categories of diodes. 2) Inductor (also may be called RF fiter or coil). The bigger the better, but any thicker then a pencil and any longer then 2 inches would likely be overkill and have vibration problems. It will probably be something like 10uH (micro henrys). About $2. ditto the above for inductor...AirCore; Ferrite; Conformal Coated RF; Ferrite Beads; etc... If you've got a moment, could you walk me through this?? Thanks. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Reepicheep |
No problem... sorry, should have thought of those questions. You must have a good local radioshack, the one I tried (a mall one) had very little selection. The switching diode should just be a normal silicone switching diode. The bigger the better, but even the small ones should be fine. I think they typically have like a 600 volt reverse voltage breakdown... Just a plain old big black silicone switching diode. It will probably come in a two pack for about $1. The coil would just be a ferrite core inductor... that will be fine for the frequencies we are dealing with here. Email me direct (Bill@KilgallonFamily.com), and I will give you a cell phone number, and you can call when you are looking at the package if it is not clear. The application is so simple, that just about any of the parts will work fine... you only real concerns are mechanical (i.e. will this part vibrate into little pieces). I would stop by a store and get part numbers, but I have noticed what each store stocks seems to vary pretty widely. Maybe I will stop by on the way home and get a list anyway... these parts are pretty common and most should have them. Bill | ||
| Hogluvr |
Hey there: Does anyone know if you can buy the starter clutch/drive gear assembly that just took a dump on my S1 aftermarket?? Harley wants something like $125-$150 for one, which is still a deal compared to a complete starter. My Custom Chrome book just shows starter gears for '88-earlier type starters. I would have to think that somebody sells these things besides The Motor Company... Thanks Mike (tryin' to decide which disabled bike to tear down first) | ||
| Hogluvr |
Reepicheep, MikeJ: Is this what you guys were talking about? I always get a little nervous when I pull something apart & pieces of metal fall out  Maybe my starter going out was a blessing in disguise. Does anybody know the p/n for the new, improved heavy duty adjuster assembly?? Mike BTW, the 'ol hose siphon trick worked like a charm...no need to remove the muffler. | ||
| Pilk |
Does any-one know of a list of things that will cause the check engine light to come on? still having the light come on while riding a constant speed usually around 3000rpm for anyextended length of time. 00 X-1. other thann the light is on, no noticed difference in performance. pilk | ||
| Hogluvr |
Let's try this again...  | ||
| Hogluvr |
Damn, it worked!! | ||
| Buelliedan |
Hogluvr, That is your primary chain adjuster. Please post that pic over on the primary drive section because that very subject is being discussed as we type. There is a new adjuster which is much sturdier built than your current one. Good thing you caught yours in time!! Dan | ||
| Mikej |
Mike, Search over in the primary section for the current part number. If your dealership has current books or a linked computer system it should give them the sturdier part number (which is apparently an older p/n). | ||
| Reepicheep |
Wow... your primary tensioner was even worse then mine. Lucky you it wedged where it did... Yikes! Mine was split but still captive, after that whole sheared header stud fiasco, I have a hair trigger on tracking down problems at the first hint of an issue. (and yes this should be in the primary section... but everyone that has not yet upgraded this part needs to know they should do it ASAP... this is a grenade waiting to go off). Bill | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Hey Everyone, My local Harley Tech. showed me this one. An easier way than the siphon hose and removing the muffler to drain the primary oil. Use a piece of plastic tubing, at least 1 inch in diameter, that is about 6 inches long. Cut it down the middle lenghtwise so it looks concave. rest it on the top of the muffler under the drain plug, let the plug go and all the oil will run down the half of the tube, beats sucking oil and works great. | ||
| Cdpratt |
NEED HELP!!! My headlight is blowing fuses. My light is now blowing a fuse when I hit the starter. I have checked the circuit from the final wiring harness that goes to the headlight and there is a short between that and back to the fuse box. All of those wires are in a black wrap so I can't tell where I might have an abrasion. I can't imagine that I could in those areas anyhow. Is there a relay or something that is maybe out? Has anyone had any experience with that? thanks in advance. | ||
| Orion |
Newfie_Buell: Did you have problems getting the plug back in? I tried that trick, but ended up having to take the muffler off in the end anyway, becuase I couldn't get the plug back in with the muffler in the way. | ||
| Hans |
Orion, lift the plug/bolt into the hole with a thin table knife or even better: a painters plastering knife. | ||
| Travis |
Is the Headlight Assembly the same between the S1, X1, and M2? I am pretty sure that the bracketry would be different, but just the Housing, light and bezel parts. Thanks Trav | ||
| Cdpratt |
yes, it's the same part | ||
| Chuck |
C.D. unless you are using a headlight bulb with too high a wattage rating . . . all I can think of to cause your problem is a faulty voltage regulator circuit --- maybe even as simple as a bad ground . . . anyway, keeping your headlight on low beam while you start the bike might lessen the problem. I wish I could be of more help . . . the wiring schematics in the service manual leave alot to be desired. | ||
| Raticalbuell |
Help!!!!! I have a 97' S1 with a right rear turn signal that keeps burning off the ground wire right off the light socket. I traced the wires and I am not finding anything out of the ordinary. So I cleaned all my connections and checked all my grounds and I am still burning the ground wire off. It doesn't burn off right away. Every time I think I have it fixed I go for a ride and a couple of turns later it burns off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. | ||
| Jmartz |
Rati.: Could it be shorting at the socket? It likely doesn't blow quickly since the current imput is intermitent. J | ||
| Sparky |
RtB, is the wire being cut where it goes through the hole in the frame bracket? There is a plastic sleeve on the ts housing that might be damaged allowing the wires to chafe the bracket. Or is it coming unsoldered at the socket base? If that's the case, maybe best bet is to buy another turn signal. They're inexpensive. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 |
