| Author | Message | ||
     Sandblast |
OK Coopy let me know what happened, because I am getting a vibration like noise out of my primary as well, it has no rythm that I can hear, very random, and I can only notice it at idle. The M2 has not quite 4,000 miles on her and I have not adjusted the primary since they did it at the 1,000 mile service. My bike is a 2001, does anybody have any suggestions or ideas? Can somebody point out to me where on the board here there are instructions for adjusting the primary? I am buying a service manual asap but have not yet. I'm worried about this... | ||
| Sandblast |
O.K. Thanks to Al at American Sport Bike I have adjusted the primary chain and the noise has gone away. wooohooo Thanks Al for the advice and putting up with me. Question though, when you measure the freeplay do you push the chain down first then up and measure total movement or do you just push up and measure from where the chain is at rest? I'm guessing push down first but hey... | ||
| Bomber |
Sandy -- total movement of the chain is what you're measuring -- it shouldn't move a whole lot down from teh at rest position, so that shouldn't change the measurement a great deal | ||
| 1320 |
What works for me is...3/8 open end wrench lined up with the primary chain at rest..keep raising chain with end of screwdriver and adjust to 3/8 movement of chain when cold... | ||
| Jonsbuell |
HEY I to have noise from right side of clutch area it's a Y2K cyclone hear it most when slowing down in 3rd.4th or 5th with throttle closed not at idle or when bike is stopped any ideas come and goes (primary chain slop..?) only 1.2 k on bike has not had this adjustment just changed tranny oil look's ok some metal on drain plug normal wear and tear....??? THANX J.B. | ||
| Bluelightning |
I'd check the adjustment 1st. What does the noise sound like? Is it a rubbing sound or a grinding sound? Could be the chain making contact with the primary cover when there is no load on the chain. If the chain is adjusted properly, you may want to pull the cover to make sure the adjuster is the new "thick" adjuster. As for metal on the drain plug, well that depends on how much metal. Some is ok, a large amount and you have something adjusted improperly. Food for thought. | ||
| Jonsbuell |
Hey Bluelightning and Mark Thanx for all info on noise on right side of my Y2K Cyclone. Will pull inspection cover to check slop in chain. Noise a little hard to describe but not there all the time squeal scraping sound best describes found broken Spark plug also ceramic intact but electrode was cut in half down near bottom of ceramic first NGK plug to fail on me but was not the problem of noise thanx all any other help is welcomed BUELLER'S J.B. Hey Blue what is remedy if you have big rub block er adjuster???? | ||
| Bluelightning |
Yeah, now that I know the sound is intermittent, sounds like your chain is rubbing against the cover during times when it has slack. As for your broken plug, does it look like it was burnt in half or broken in half? Either way it could be an issue. Broken means that you have a piston coming up too high hitting the plug. Burnt could be several things. Good luck | ||
| Jonsbuell |
HEY Bluelightning thanx for info stopped at dealer they seem to think it is slop in chain also .Spark plug had no impact from piston just believe defectve just looked like it snapped...put autolites back in no new problem will look to see if adjuster is new style. Just got my 03 Indian Chief today so out putting some miles on it today nice comfy ride will work on Buell this weekend Thanx all J.B. | ||
| Jonsbuell |
Hey all just took slop out of primary chain and seem's to have fixed my noise problem chain had about 1 inch deflection before adjustment made big dif.Biggest pain is removing exhaust out of way but still only took about 30 minutes better then dealer and like the price .FREE!!.THANX J.B. | ||
| Vegasbueller |
Primary Oil revisited: Just picked up the XB9R today! I am wanting to change the primary oil and adjust the chain tension too. I would like to hear more about synthetic primary oil. I hear some people run the Mobil 1 20/50 or 15/50 engine oil in the primary. Is that right??? Or.. should I use the 75/90 synthetic? Any other suggestions? Thanks! Nick | ||
| Aesquire |
The Mobil 1 15/50 & the 75/90 gear lube are almost the same viscosity. Motor oil & gear lube use different rating systems. The additives are different too. The consensus seems to be use the 75/90, it has additives designed to work on gears, while the 15/50 has additives for combustion chambers. That is about as oversimplified as I can get, others may chip in. (and they will ) | ||
| Vegasbueller |
That makes sense. It didn't even occur to me about the gear lube additives. I wonder if Autozone carries the stuff, because I just found out that Wal Mart doesn't carry it. Thanks for the info. Nick | ||
| 2bbuell |
I can't find Mobil 1 gear lube here in Canada (Ontario) either.  | ||
| Fullpower |
HD says their 20w-50 synthetic oil is ok in either engine or transmission of all Buells. i am currently using valvoline 20w-50,and have in past used mobil 1, and also once used amsoil 75w-90. they all lubricate just fine. 28 ounces seems to be the correct amount for both my XB and sportster. overfilling with a full quart makes the clutch drag a bit ( tough to find neutral) | ||
| Vegasbueller |
Hey.. I found the gear oil at Auto Zone! Not sure if you guys have one up in Canada?? I'll let you know how it works for me next week when I get the time to change the primary oil. Nick | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Checker Auto\Shunks usually carries the Mobil 1 75/90 That's where I get mine. Brad | ||
| Ezblast |
Is the primary cover bolt spacing the same on the Blast, XB & tubers the same? In other words - are the bolts all in the same place on the case fastening? This would take someone familiar with all three to know - I hope your reading - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Bomber |
EZ -- from memory (shakey from the dim time in the 60s) the tubers and Blasts do NOT share the same primary covers, so I would suspect that the bolt spacing/lengths also differ -- | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - you see I was asking because I'm trying to devise an inexpensive set of rearsets for a friend - I've found that the pricey part for this is really the shifting part - the new shift kits for the tubers is a snatch from the Banke set up for the Blast, with - now that it has been clarified - of course different spacing - thus no patent infringment - lol - however, then the question becomes - what is the depth, pitch/size/type of threaded hole used on the XB case cover? Could the XB cover be used on the Blast? My other options are requesting a replacement shifter from Banke for a Blast or a shifter side for an S1 (ala CrossRoads - lol) - both more expensive options on a tight buget - Thanks for the help so far! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
EZ, The promary cover bolt pattern for the XB and Blasts are the same, but the internals are different from the XB and will require you to adjust your primary chain like an XB. Why not just drill and tap the Blast primary cover for the XB shifter, it's a cheaper way to go, and the boss for the shifter is still there. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats what I'll do - what tap and depth should I use? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bomber |
be aware that the shifter parts actually thread into the engine case, not the primary case -- the primary hasn't enough meat to hold up to the stresses introduced by the shifter -- on tubers, it's 9/16 course thread, I beleive | ||
| Jprovo |
Bomber, WRT the Tubers you're right, but on the XB primary, there's a boss for the shifter to thread into. On the Blast the same boss is there but not threaded. EZ, I dunno, I bought the same bolt as the XB and drilled and tapped accordingly. James | ||
| Bomber |
Provo -- thanks for backin me up, and for keeping me from steering EZ in the wrong direction | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I've think I've got a problem that's doing to need to be dealt with soon. This is going to be a bit long so please bear with me. I've had a small oil leak on my 2000 M2 for a good part of the summer. Not much, just enough to mark it's territory, maybe 1/2 a thimble at most after a long ride. I thought it may have been the o ring on the primary drain plug or maybe a primary gasket seal in the same area. I was unsure as whenever you rode it long enough to drip, it blew all over the place and made locating the source difficult. Even though I run synth in both the primary and the engine oil you would think you could tell the difference by smell. The amount was small enough that I wasn't sure. I started to think it was engine oil and not primary oil. I decided to go high tech and find out for sure. I bought some untraviolet oil trace dye an added 1/4 oz to the engine oil. I ran the bike for about 20 miles and checked for leaks with a UV light and glasses. You would be surprised at what will glow funny under a high power UV lamp. Stuff like the oil line jacketing on the bottom of our motors, gasket cement, Hylomar, etc.etc. But the tracer dye REALLY lights up. Not much mistaking it. After the first run, I really didn't see any leaks. But, there was a very small oil film by the drain plug but no glow. Hmmm, seems it may be primary oil after all. I ran out of trouble shooting time for the weekend and put the project away till later. I rode the bike most of the week and finally took a peek with the UV light the following weekend. The bottom lit up like a Christmas tree only all green. Unfortunately there was so much I couldn't tell where it was coming from. A neighbor was over watching the process, he asked how I knew for sure I was seeing the "right glow". I showed him by shining the UV light into the oil tank. Hmmm, seems a bit low. The bike has been sitting for a full 2 days (I was riding my S2 instead) so I figured I may have wet sumped a bit. I started the bike and sure enough the oil lever returned to "near" normal. I say "near" normal because I had just topped of the engine oil the previous weekend. The bike had been ride less than 60 miles, not enough to lose 3/8 or so of oil in the tank. I decided to pull the derby cover and see if the level had gone up. It looked to be at about the same as my usual fill level. Just covering the bottom of the chain. About 9/10 of a quart. Just for grins I shined the UV light in the primary. Imagine my shock when I saw a faint glow! It was a very faint glow, not like the engine oil which is very bright. I need to pick up a quart of Mobile 1 75/90 on the way home tonight and see it the glow is normal, man I really hope it is. Otherwise it looks I'm going to have to replace the crank seal. Question for the collective, is any amount of engine oil migration normal? Even very small amounts? I used a professional grade tracer dye, it's VERY concentrated. I think even a very small amount will cause a glow. If I need to replace the seal, didn't someone on the board have the insertion tool? I would be eternally grateful if I could borrow it for a week. I really only feel like ding this once. The tool would help insure that outcome. Thanks much folks, Brad | ||
| Henrik |
Brad; I have the tool. If you need it, shoot me a mailing addy and I'll get it out to you. Henrik | ||
| Reepicheep |
Henrik also has a very nice writeup of the install instructions, that will be posted to a public website within hours of when he sends them to me  Blue, I am no expert, but I would not be that worried about a small amount of migration. It seems inevitible to me, that is not that elaborate a seal. That being said, failure of that seal is pretty common after 20k miles, so replacement while you are in there is dirt cheap and pretty easy. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Thanks tons Henrik, I'll make sure I have the part in hand before I drop you a note. Not a hard or complicated job, just a pain in the butt. BTW, I stripped a derby cover bolt too! Helicoil time I guess. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
They are the same coils that will repair the primary cover bolts, which is handy when you strip those also :/ |
