| Author | Message | ||
     Newfie_Buell |
Oh, one more thing to add, in the past when removing stubborn gaskets I have used a combination of a gasket remover gel, not the spray and a very sharp razor blade. brush on the gel, let it sit for a while then gently scrape with the blade, usually works very well. Be careful not to nick the surface of the piece that the gasket is being removed from. | ||
| Ralph |
I have a magneto? Nuh uh, wheres my magnito? How come you guys get one and I don't!? I WANNA MAGNETO!! bighairyralph actually, I don't want a magneto  | ||
| Sportyeric |
X-number. N4s are the same as the stock S1 cams, but maybe cheaper? Harley makes the cams with a variety of gear diameters to allow for variations in castings of the cam cover. After-market cams could be too tight or loose in the case. Zippers gets around this by taking your stock cams and removing the lobe then welding theirs on. If you went with the stock S1 cams, they would give you an opportunity to check for fit in the cam cover.I think they come in three diameter varieties. As to how bumpy: any more than N4 or equivalent and you should upgrade the springs, check the piston clearance, etc. Are you joining Aaron at Booneville or doing a lot of track time? Over-camming is a common fault. The bigger the bump, the bigger the hole in the mid-range, more or less. Get too peaky and you might as well get a Ninja. | ||
| Hans |
Raticalbuell, Ralph brought up a good point: Learning to know your engine by turning everything with a screw thread loose and jump to conclusions about what you think you see is a very hard (and expensive way). By far the BEST tool is the Service Manual. Grizzly had the same problems with those 4 bolts coming loose which with the engine sprocket is bolted onto the ROTOR. See his recent pictures. Just before he noticed this problem he told me that his engine seemed "tired", had lack of top power. BTW, those bolts have to be (blue) Loctited and torqued 90-110 in-lbs. The primary chain should have a freeplay, measured at different positions of the sprocket, between 0.375-0.5 inch. Freeplay is the total distance measured between pushing the chain up and pulling it down. That is something else than measuring the DEFLECTION of the belt wich has to be measured pushing the belt upward on the bottom strand and is measured from an imaginary line over the back of the belt on the pulleys. Has to be 1.50 - 1.75 inch, pushing with 10 lbs force. That looks very loose and it MUST be that loose. And,....my knowledge is not beyond basics and some conclusions and (mis-)understandings so keep a sound distrust. Enjoy your bike and buy the Manual !! Hans. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
OK, so I also refered to it as a Magneto, sorry. | ||
| Hans |
Newfie, Nothing to feel sorry about; there are in fact a whole bunch of magnetos in the stator. I feel pretty ridiculous as I jumped to the conclusion that Raticalbuell knew only old fashioned two stroke engines and talked about adjusting the primary chain while he is working for a firm that manufactures clutches for big twins. Ah well, maybe somebody will use that info. Hans | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
OK, I have NEW problem. Somebody please offer some advise. Taking it back to the dealer is not an option at this point as the dealer is 1500km away. Went to go for a run earlier tonight, got about 10km on a new tank of gas and all I heard was ping, ping, ping....... (like someone had a tin of ball bearings under the tank) This happened whenever I opened the throttle and when the engine was under power. Oh yeah engine seemed to be overheated as well, strange thing here as the air temperature was around 17 Celsius or about 65 Fahrenheit. I turned around and headed for home. There was also a louder sound comming from the breather assembly, I still have the stock set up. I got it home and pulled both spark plugs and definate signs of running lean, even deposits on the front cylinder spark plug, cleaned them up and put them back, I then pulled the breather cover and checked the air filter, nothing strange there or anything clogged up. The exhause also does not appear to be restricted either. Last thing I did was drained most of the gas from the tank and carburator float bowl, replaced the gas with another brand and added some conditioner/octane booster in case of bad gas or water in the gas. Took the bike for a quick run and after it got hot again it started pinging once again, even starting in first gear. The motor is also slow to rev. The enricher does not seem to be working right(wont idle past 1000rpm with it on) and it is having trouble staying at idle. If anyone has any ideas please let me know Willie | ||
| Chuck |
Willie, Be sure your ignition timing is still okay! | ||
| Hans |
Willie, Tank vent valve can stick after filling too high or after tipping the bike over. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
The problem was some really Bad Gasoline. Last time I fill up at that place. After draining the carb, most of the tank adding new gas then adding some additive it worked, thanks for the tips on the timing & sticky tank vent. | ||
| Swede |
As I am a new Buell owner... Could someone tell me the difference between the '98 S1 engine and the '98 S1 White engine? I wanna know where those extra hp's come from. Thanks. /Bjhorn, Sweden | ||
| Tripper |
The Thunderstorm Heads and Pistons. | ||
| Blake |
Don't the '98 S1's have the T-Storm engine too? Or am I loosing my mind... again...? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Trippers right. The 101 hp Thunderstorm heads and pistons came out in 98 but only on the White Lightning. And the difference there,Swede is that the thunderstorm set-up has 15 angled pistons (and matching heads, of course), and larger valves as oposed to the flat-top pistons of the 91 hp Lightning of any other colour. | ||
| Sportyeric |
...which still make a great engine! | ||
| Ralph |
Thunderstorms also came on the '98 S3. bighairyralph | ||
| Swede |
Thanks for your information! Sounds like a bit to much work and money for 10 extra hp's... Anyone with any experience from decking (if that is the right word in english...? lathing off a small amount of the cylinder height at the base to increase compression ratio) the '98 S1 cyls? /Bjorn | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thinner head gaskets accomplish the same trick, as do thinner base gaskets, but thinner, copper base gaskets leak oil. Some people think its a worthwhile trade-off but some change their minds after looking at the mess all the time but don't have the ambition to chamge back again and so have embarrassing oil leaks forever and ever and ever. It was recommended to me to switch to adjustable pushrods, although I think there is sufficient leeway in the lifters to take up the slack, and that is what I have done without ill effect so far. | ||
| Jmartz |
Swede: I had my Lightning heads milled .020 inches, a multiangle job done on the seats and blended in the seats myself with a dremel. Motor picked up 6 HP from 77 to 83. A bit of carb and time tuning and it went to 86. That is as good as you are going to get w/o a professional porting & flow job. I've seen #'s in the low 90's with those. The effort is the with the T-heads and you get 10 HP more. jose | ||
| Swede |
Jose, do you know how much valve/piston clearance you got after that operation? Did any calculations on the compression ratio? /Bjorn | ||
| Jmartz |
I did not measure the piston to valve clearance but the squish (bottom of head to top of piston)was .040 with .032 gaskets. If memory serves me right 10.12 was my estimated compression. Remeber that the companmy lies about their 10:1 it is actually closer to 9:1. Not surprisingly they also lie about the amount of fuel (4.0 vs 3.8) and the dry weight 425 for an S1? Jose | ||
| Blake |
Jose: The company "lies" about compression ratio??!!  Where did you hear that??!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
My bible is The Sportster Performance Handbook by Buzz Buzzelli,(which has a special section on Buells so you guys can use it too). He recommends 20 to 30 thou cold deck height, which grows by 40 thou when the engine is hot. More than 60 thou and there is no squish effect, although I don't think with the design of the S1 heads there is any squish to be had anyway. Shaving the head will increase compression but not alter squish, whereas changing the effective cylinder height by gaskets or by machining the cylinder base will improve squish,(if it exists.) At that tight clearance you have to be careful to let it warm up thoroughly before being hard on it with throttle or tach. Some shops remove old base gaskets by machining a bit off the bottom so you don't want to go really tight by machining alone or you might find you end up too short after shop work. Also, a future change in pistons,ie rebore, might cause clearance problems due to variations in production. Piston to valve clearance isn't an issue. The Screamin' Eagle cams that require stronger valve springs, whatever they're called, have a higher lift than the height we're talking about dropping, if you see my point. (If those cams are"bolt in", with 30 thou more lift than stock S1s, then an engine with stock S1 cams must have 30 thou clearance to spare.) Lazy assumption but it worked for me. Mine has 27 thou head gaskets, 10 thou base gaskets, and 5 thou milled off the bottom for a total reduction of 30 thou and a cold clearance of 25 thou. To calculate compression ratio: the cylinder is 600 cc so the combustion chamber is 60cc (if the factory didn't lie). The change for mine is .030 times pi r squared. I can't find my calulator but I seem to remember it being a .3 boost, to 10.3. Needs high test but runs great. 82 nasty horses and refuses to blow up. The Dremel is a great tool. Use it on the intake manifold too. | ||
| Aaron |
The piston is a long way from the valves at max lift. Max lift is not related to the clearance. The SE .536 is not a bolt-in cam, making that assumption could be dangerous. | ||
| Aaron |
Another thing Eric ... if the volume above the piston at tdc is 60cc, it'll be 660cc at bdc, giving a compression ratio of 660/60 = 11:1. In reality, if your motor is 10:1, it has about 66.7cc above the piston at tdc and 667cc above the piston at bdc ... that gives 10:1 with 600cc displacement. Removing .030 of cylinder height removes about 4.72cc from both the tdc and bdc volume, resulting in a compression ratio of 10.69:1. AW | ||
| Sportyeric |
Point taken | ||
| Blake |
Aaron, you're getting me all excited with that stuff!  | ||
| Aaron |
I've had to run a lot of numbers lately to figure out how to do the Be-last. The short stroke presents some real challenges with respect to getting compression using Evo parts. So this stuff is on my mind a lot. Glad to know someone finds it exciting! AW | ||
| Swede |
Yep Aaron, you are of course right about the clearance. My mistake. Eric what does your bible suggest to be done to a S1? /Bjorn | ||
| Jmartz |
The .536 cams have the same TDC lift as the SE I according to HD |
