| Author | Message | ||
     Coney |
i have found that buell makes a fan kit to help keep the engine from overheating in traffic. my dealer says it works well but has the unfortunate side effect of channeling all the heat away from the engine onto your leg. well done in no time. has anybody had any experience with this unit? | ||
| Vr1203 |
Coney, The item you might be referring to is a fan designed for a big twin dresser. It looks like a big horn and fits on the left side of the v. You should look at the big HD catalog. I think it would work on anything really. | ||
| Aaron |
No, there's a Buell accessory fan, made specifically for Buells ... I believe it was written up in the Road Ahead last fall, but it's not in the P&A catalog yet. I have no experience with it. Might have a hard time finding someone who does, considering they introduced it in winter. | ||
| Fastback69 |
Has anyone done modifications to the engine for the purpose of oil control? Scrapers, additional oil drain lines, modified cases, pumps, etc. There is a good article in on of the B2Win mags about tricks that race teams do to their engines. | ||
| Ncdragster |
Help, I think I may have screwed up a bit. I noticed there was a little weepage at the oil tank fitting on my 91 S1 (plastic tank). I lightly turned them and they moved, so I thought, OK the rubber has gotten old and needs replacing. Pulled the oil tank and removed the fittings (pulled out the steel insert first then the rubber bung. I could see where at one time they were glued in (long past let go). I went to the dealer and to my shock and aghast (a little drama, grin) those pieces are not listed separate from the Tank. I really don't want to buy a new tank. Anybody have any ideas where to get the rubbers. I think if I can't find any I'll try and put the old ones in and use yamabond as a sealer (it would be better than what ever the factory used). Much appreciation for any help. Regards, Wayne NCDRAGSTER@aol.com | ||
| Jmartz |
Nc: I have replaced the oil tank on my S1 several times because of leaks and other reasons. Forget trying to glue those grommets. The time to have done that was before it ever saw any oil. Your tank is now oil impregnated. The new 2001 tanks have brass fittings except on the pressure equalizer line. There us no other alternative. Jose | ||
| M2cyclone |
Does anyone have any experience with aluminum oil tanks for an M2? I need one bad! | ||
| Aikigecko |
Anyone use one of these???????? 10sec oil cooler | ||
| Leeaw |
Aikigecko, I was talking to a couple of guys last week who use them, and they believe in them. One guy said his X1 ran better. HD also has the same part. Lee | ||
| Troop |
At what mileage is a good time to sitch to synthetic oil ? My 00 M2 had its oil changed at 560 mi.(check-up). I now have 1520 mi. on the odometer and my oil level is juuuust about to the add mark. Is 1500 mi. too soon on a H-D motor ? Not worried about warranty aspect as much as break-in factor. | ||
| Aaron |
I use it at break-in. | ||
| Jmartz |
I broke-in my Nallin top end with synthetic although he told me not to. Bike is making expected HP with no oil consumtion and I only gave 250 miles below 4000 for brake-in. J | ||
| Peter |
Why do Redline specify not to use theirs? PPiA | ||
| Jmartz |
Liablibilty? I use Mobil 1 | ||
| Ncdragster |
Does anyone know why Jagg oil coolers use an adaptor plate to run the oil lines. It seems like it would be less complex and cumbersome to run directly from the output of the pump to the cooler and back to the inlet at the bottom of the filter housing. I realize this is pressurized feed oil, but so is the way Jagg does it. Comments? Best Regards, Wayne | ||
| Buelliedan |
Hey guys, I recently signed up to be an Amsoil dealer just to get my oil cheaper. They make a V-Twin 20w/50 full synthetic that is just as good if not better than the Mobil 1 and is cheaper. Mobil 1 goes for $8 a quart if you can find it. I can get the Amsoil for you for $6 a quart if anyone is interested. They have synthetic shock oil too for $8 a quart. | ||
| X1bueller |
Dumb Question? I want to change to synthetic. How do I get all of the oil out of the crank case? | ||
| Mikej |
This was covered last Fall I believe. Consider what I'm about to say as irrelevant.  1. Drain your old oil as soon as you turn the bike off. The engine doesn't keep much or any oil in the crankcase apart from what is being pumped thru the lube journals and pathways. This should get at least 90% or more of the old oil out once you also remove the oil filter. 2. If you really want to clear out the old dino-blend you will either have to open up a return line from the pump and pump the engine dry. Or you can just plan on a short run with the new blend, then change the filter and new oil within the first hundred miles or so. The old remaining oil will somewhat mix with the new synthetic oil/lube. 3. I've been told to not worry about it, and just drain what you can of the old stuff, replace the filter, and refill with the new stuff and go ride. It just depends on how critical you feel you need to be. Now wait until someone else replies before you do anything. MikeJ Maybe going to synthetic myself after my trip. Didn't want to introduce any new variables prior to a long ride. | ||
| Court |
>>>Didn't want to introduce any new variables prior to a long ride. Credo of the TRUE Iron Butt Riders...... Right RH? Court | ||
| Aaron |
Pump the engine dry? No need to do that at all. A safer flush goes something like this: Drain the oil from the tank Fill the tank with new oil Disconnect the return line (it's fairly easy to do at the pump) Route the pump outlet to a drain pan with a separate hose Run the motor until you see clean oil coming out. It'll run clean well before the tank runs dry. Shut it off Reconnect the return line Change the filter (with oil in the new one) Fill the tank back up When you start it again, it'll take a few seconds to get oil pressure due to air you introduced when you changed the filter. No way around that, at least that I know of. But that's the only "dry" running you have to do. | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks Aaron for the refresher, I knew there was something to disconnect and pump, but forgot the procedure, if one wanted to ensure a complete changeover. | ||
| S2rider |
That would be correct Mr. Canfield I NEVER change anything before a big ride. Before I did my 100ccc (www.ironbutt.com) ride I rode 700 shakedown miles without changing a thing before I departed. I did my first 1000 mile day on a 1995 Buell S2 that made 94 HP at the rear wheel. The actual mileage was 1902 miles in 36 hours. And before it gets asked, I took the bike and put 5000 miles on it to "season" the motor before making changes. (I HATE new parts!) I bored the motor .010" over and installed total seal rings on fresh pistons. The heads were done by the GREAT Ron Scrima of Racing Engine Service. The chambers were welded up and re-shaped to Ron's specs. The cams were S.E. Bolt In Cams. The ignition was Dyna 2000 with their 5 ohm coils running single fire. A stock S2 header was used with D&D muffler. I ran a Mikuni HSR 44 that was flowed with the heads, intake and carb all in place together. This motor was done at 5000 miles. When I traded the bike for my BMW K1100 LT it had 44,000 miles on the clock. Yesterday, I traded that BMW for long green rectangles. Soon, REAL SOON! I will trade those long green rectangles for another something with Buell on the tank. Damn, got a little wordy there. Sorry! Randell motorcycle enthusiast | ||
| Peter |
Randell, How soon is REAL SOON? I'm getting itchy too. PPiA | ||
| Billgw |
Hi all, MY Y2K M2 PUKED!! I noticed some slight weeping near the rocker box at the rear head. First, around the 500 mile check, then a little heavier around the 2500 mile check. No big deal, all H-D's leak a little right? At least that was my experience with my FX Super-glide and my FXR. But then, at the 2500 mile check I added a V&H slip-on, BMC race air filter and re-jetted the carbs. Heaven!! I was super happy with everything until..... about 500 miles later I noticed a fairly heavy amount of oil accumlated on the bottom of the chaincase and around the gearbox. Also, fairly heavy accumulations along the seam of the chaincase. Plus the whole area around the back of the battery and swingarm was oily. Bummer eh. Well I checked the oil level in the tank and it wasn't even on the dipstick (bike upright/level) so I topped off to bring half-way up (took about three quarters of a quart). So, I light out for a meeting at work and get there 50 miles later and there is oil all over the bottom of the motor and on the rear cylinder. Not much oil lost however. So I'm in the parking lot and the bike is still smoking cause of all the oil on the rear cylinder. I attend said meeting, and about an hour later I come out and see only about 1 teaspoon or so of oil dumped. Now I gotta get back to the house, and after the 50 or so mile return the same thing at the other end.. smoke/oil all over, etc. I rode to the shop at Lynnwood HD (outside of Seattle) the next day approx. 20 miles and now I (with the service manager) can watch oil welling up and coming out of the seam at the front of the chaincase. Needless to say I'm pissed plus now I'm worried about all the Knowledge vault stuff about bad primary seals, rocker box covers, valve guide seals incorrect, etc. I hope that there will be quick resolution by Lynnwood and the bike is still under warranty so I'm hoping its covered. I'll let every one know the outcome but I wonder if there is anything I can say to the service folks to ensure better quality seals are reinstalled (if found bad) and not have this problem return. Could I have introduced a problem by upping the pressures in the engine with the performance mods? Any insight or advice would be appreciated! P.S.- I usually ride freeways at 60-80MPH+ with some bursts to 100+ could this be too hard on the machine? I did the break-in thing being very careful to adhere to the manual. i.e. under 60, varying speeds, etc.. Does anyone know if the BMC people keep track of what is posted on this site? Is there a way I could e-mail them this story? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sounds like what mine looked like when I had a rear rocker box leak. It came off the back of the engine, and pooled up behind the rear cylinder on top of the transmission case. It also worked its way down, so that there was a real mess on the bottom of the engine. So so far, so good on your description (for a leaky rocker box), which is really not a big deal as it is pretty easy to fix. Then you talked about watching oil coming out the seam at the front of the chaincase... thats different... and sounds a little more serious (and totally out of my areas of experience)... Let us know how it turns out. I would think that spending lots of time bouncing off the rev limiter would be a bigger threat to the engine then simply moving at more then 100 mph... at least until that trailer in front blows a tire, a deer darts out from the woods, or that Ford Fiesta ahead of you blows antifreeze all over the road... that would likely be hard on the engine as well  . Bill | ||
| Aaron |
Bill, I'd sure look at the primary's oil level before fixing anything. It's possible you're dumping engine oil into the primary through the sprocket shaft seal. Your breathers didn't get blocked when you did the mods, did they? Where did you put the breathers when you stuck that air cleaner on? Are the lines pinched? If it's a random failure, just fix it and move on, it's really a trivial thing to fix. Change your chain tensioner while you're in there. As far as the rocker box leak goes, welcome to Buelling. I recommend steel gaskets, at least until I have one of them fail on me. AW | ||
| Billgw |
Thanks Aaron and Reepicheep, You guys got the rear rocker box nailed. That was one of 'em. R & R'd with new H-D part and that fixed that (for now). What is the story with the better quality gaskets out there? Can anyone recommend a vendor or part number? Since it was warranty work, the shop just went with H-D OEM part, but if it happens again I'd like to do the work and use the best quality I could find! Now the story with the primary leak was that the dowel alignment pin was missing. They asked me if I had messed with it and the answer is/was no! Anyway, they said perhaps it was missed at the factory? So, new dowel pin and new primary cover gasket and that seems to have cleared that one as well! Breather lines are teed off and routed into the back of the new race air cleaner. No kinks noted. I'm back in the wind and it feels great! So add this one to the archives. BTW has everyone seen this press release? http://www.2wf.com/html/2001News/20010712NewBuell.shtml | ||
| Tripper |
Gasket p/n's here | ||
| Hans |
Ha, Just what was presumed: Missing dowel pin: Sloppy assembling. Original paper gaskets are fine. Sloppy assembling is bad. Got feed back from a big dealer who repaired in the past years about 360 (!) leaking rocker boxes in Sportsters with the original gaskets. Got back after first repair: only 2. That can happen. Hans. | ||
| Billgw |
Thanks to you all, Bugs are clickin' off the helmet again at 80+ so I know all is well! :-) Now if I could only come up with the dough for a 2002 Firebolt XB9R! That way if I gotta take the Cyclone out-of-service again I'd be ready to go! |
