| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron |
I really doubt it's got anything to do with single versus dual fire. I've literally switched back and forth, with the engine running, between single and dual fire on my S1, and I can't see, hear, feel, or smell a difference at any rpm. Same cams as an X1 or S3. Tune it up, that's my advice, after making sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Timing is a great place to start. Jet it right, too. Every mark on your timing plate is 5 full degrees. AW | ||
| Fastback69 |
He's still using the 883 carb which is probably not helping. Are the airbleeds in the 883 CV the same as the 1200 airbleeds? I think I'll try to talk him into buying a used CV off a Buell so he can have the idle adjustment, too. I talked him into the T-storm heads/pistons and cams, and talked him out of buying the SE jugs so I should be able to pursuade him on the carb. As a side note, the bike pulls HARD now and I didn't hear any pinging. I didn't make it to WFO, though. I speed shifted 2nd and almost wound up on the pillion. (I don't like forward controls!) What's everyone's opinion on the ThunderJet? AW, have you finished writing up instructions for changing the timing, yet? I remember someone asking you to, and since I've never tuned one, they would help. | ||
| Aaron |
I was under the impression that it's the same carb. I've never used a Thunderjet. The shop manual is the best source for the procedure for setting the timing, I don't really have anything else to offer. Except that a dyno works better than a timing light. AW | ||
| S1blackie |
Aaron, thanks for the info! Yes a riders course is a good idea. Question? occasionally after a ride, with the bike parked for an hour or so, at start up There is a huge backfire but starts right up. Next start no problem! what gives? | ||
| Blake |
S1blackie: Too much accelerator pump fuel in the intake? Are you pumping the throttle before starting? If so, try just cracking it to 1/4 open and hitting the starter. Or try using the enrichener with no throttle at all (close enrichener asap after it starts). Still this is addressing only the symptom. Sounds like you could benefit from some jetting/idle mixture tuning. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
s1Blackie, I don't know the reason for sure, but I can tell you that my S1W did the same, even if I never touched the throttle at startup. When I put the mikuni HSR42 on it with no other changes, it stopped doing it and NEVER does it now. SO I suspect Blake is on track with idle mixture tuning. I love my mikuni. Al | ||
| Fastback69 |
Aaron, My dad and I started pulling the timing down like you recommended and it's working. He found a reference somewhere that stated that 1/16" equals 1o of timing on the sensor plate. We've pulled 2o out so far and it's running much smoother. I think another 2 and maybe one larger jet will get his bike fixed. I haven't been able to get mine tuned yet because the dealer ran a Triumph Daytona and it melted the exhaust tubes. Then they started blowing fuses. Oh, well. I'm still having it done. Thanks again for the help. | ||
| S1blackie |
Thanks, no I don't mess with the throttle at start , just the enrichener when cold or sitting for awhile. I will check the idle mixture to see if that helps. | ||
| Pjw |
having trouble dynamic timing my bike I can find the top dead center mark but not the advanced mark any body else have this problem any suggestions would be greatly appreciated HELP | ||
| Chuck |
Pete, I know it will cost you, but try to get a dial type timing light. I borrowed a friends which came from Sears for around $70. The timing of our motors is a perfect application for this type of light because the "window" is so small. This light will "sense" the rpm of the bike and "delay" its "flash" for the number of degrees shown on its "dial". So...to set timing on your bike, idle motor at 1000 rpm; turn dial on timing light until your TDC mark shows up in "window" (dial setting equals present timing) adjust as required; recheck. If you want to set timing to anything other than factory specs, this type of light is a must IMHO  | ||
| Aaron |
Chuck ... on my dual-fire bikes, when I turn the dial on my Sears light to see the tdc mark it reads twice the actual timing. I'm assuming it's seeing the wasted spark and concluding that the engine rpm is twice what it actually is, which causes it to generate half the delay between firing and flashing that it should have, hence I have to turn the dial twice as far. Not that I use the silly thing since I got a better tool  . The light can only tell you where the timing is, not where the motor wants it to be. AW | ||
| Aaron |
Fastback ... just saw your post ... 1/16" = 2 degrees? Lessee .... The plate is 3" in diameter. 3 * pi = 9.425" circumference Each rotation of the cam (360 degree) is 2 rotations of the crank (720 degrees), so ... 9.425 / 720 = .0131" per degree 2 degrees is only .026", or about the valve lash on a Chevy. Taking it a little further ... there are 29 hash marks, making 28 gaps between them, spread out over an area of about 1-13/16 inches, according to my ruler, so ... 1-13/16 / 28 = .065 spacing between marks .065 / .0131 = 5 degrees per mark I ran this by a Buell factory dude and he confirmed it's correct (I can't find any definition of the value of a hash mark in any shop manual I own). Hoser has also confirmed it. I think a lot of people don't realize how little you have to move that plate to make a pretty sizable change in the timing. AW | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Aaron, I'll trade you a timing light for a dyno  By the way, what do you think my M2 would like for timing? I've got mild cams and a gutted V&H. | ||
| Pjw |
thanks Chuck that's great advice that is the exact timing light that I am running but still cannot find the advanced mark you said the TDC mark the book said advanced is this my problem should I find the TDC again and adjust for it my concern was that the TDC and advanced marks are quite a ways apart and I am finding the TDC. Aaron are you volunteering to dyno tune my bike?? I would like to be next in line from chuck for that timing light dyno swap. | ||
| Aaron |
Chuck, that's a question I'd hate to answer. I really have no way of knowing and anything I said would just be a guess and could cause you problems. I would say that in the absence of a dyno, set it the way the factory says. Pjw: With a regular timing light, you're looking for the "advanced" mark. It senses the spark and puts out a light pulse right then. But with a dial-back light, you're looking for the TDC mark. It senses the spark and then waits a little while before putting out the light pulse. The amount of time it waits is a function of the dial setting. The idea is to time off the TDC mark and use the dial to see how much timing advance you have. What I was pointing out to Chuck is that the timing light's idea of the engine rpm, and thus it's amount of delay, may be wrong on a dual-fire bike. That's because these lights assume single fire (i.e., a car with a conventional distributor). That makes the dial read the incorrect timing. In general, timing lights are difficult to use on these things because of the dual-fire. Only half of your light pulses are meaningful. I'm also suspicious of a dial-back light's ability to deal with the uneven firing of a Harley motor, and still generate correct delays. Couple that with your choice of either a difficult to see through plastic plug, or a blast of oily air in your face, and the whole process is just a bad one. AW | ||
| Chuck |
Aaron, you are confusing me. When you connect a timing light to the front cylinder's plug lead, it fires twice per cycle: once for its power stroke, and once for the rear cylinder's power stroke......but regardless of which cylinder actually "needs" spark at the time, you are getting a "pulse" from the timing light for every revolution of the crankshaft......right  | ||
| Chuck |
Aaron......never mind. | ||
| Jmartz |
Chuck: If you want to optimize timing while on a dyno it is best to do it with a programmable ignition. Leave the factory setting alone and with your laptop ("rotate") you can go + or - 8 degrees from wherever it is set while seeing what gives the best results. That would be a basetiming adjustment electroincally. You could also revamp your curve overall and correct the less that 20 BTDC that results when you move the plate leftwards to retard the top end. With no mods in compression or cams the factory equipment works pretty good. You might seek the optimal plate location but often its is right on the money. | ||
| Pjw |
thanks every one Aaron I have tried both lights and still am having problems I am going to probably do the static again and just try to time by the seat on pants method until I can afford a single fire Ignition module. any suggestions of which one to get and how much I should expect to pay. | ||
| Chuck |
Jose, As soon as Aaron trades me his dyno . . . . . . | ||
| Aaron |
It seems a shame to spend $350-$400 on a single fire ignition setup (module and coil) just so you can set your timing. But, I'm partial to the Dyna 2000/SE Selectable (same thing). You'll need a single fire coil, they tend to be a little larger and you sometimes have to get creative mounting them. Dyna makes a compact one that can be made to fit in the stock S1 location without too much trouble. Don't expect a power gain. AW | ||
| Jmartz |
Its all in the trick factor AAron. | ||
| Pjw |
what Jmartz said | ||
| Coloradosoccer |
Help...My bike won't start...Turn ignition to park and lights come on. Turn to ign and nothing. No eletrical, no nothing. Try to hot wire by splicing the 3 ign wires and I get everything on but fuel pump. very confusing. | ||
| Blake |
Try blasting your switch with contact cleaner. | ||
| Bushmasta |
i just dropped my 00 S3T for its 5000 mile service. they said they changed the spark plugs. i thought i read somewhere that they are supposed to use the blast plugs now. does anyone know about this? Or does it use different plugs what plugs should be used? this is a new dealer so i am not sure they are up to speed. thanks. jhbushmasta@aol.com | ||
| José_Quiñones |
The "Blast" plug is called the 10R12. I think your 2000 S3 probably already had these from the factory, and were replaced as part of the 5,000 service. These plugs replaced the 6R12 plugs, used in Buells until recently and still used on the Sportsters and the Twin Cam 88. The 10R12's run cooler, minimizing/eliminating pinging when the bike gets hot. | ||
| Andrey |
Hi I am the owner of Buell X1(2001). Bought it 3 weeks ago. Unfortunately there are only 2 Buells in Russia. One is mine and the second is a demo bike(2000 X1) at Harley's dealer. The dealer is experienced in Harley but Buell is new to them. My Buell broke after only 80 miles. "Check engine" turns on, runs like it's on one cylynder. Changed temp.sensor, oxygen sensor - no effect. Seems like the reset of the TPS is required. But the dealer has the problem establishing connection between Scanalizer and my X1. We've got a Buell software cartridge for Scanalizer (part B-41325-99). When connected both to my X1 and to demo bike, Scanaliser shows "no response" sign. Any Ideas about the problem with Scanalizer? Andrey | ||
| Dart |
I have a 2000 M2, I've changed to the newer 10R12 plugs. They are good in some instances and bad in others. My bike warms up much quicker than with the 6R12 plugs and initialy runs great, but my engine starts pinging if I get caught in stop and go traffic or on longer rides once the engine heats to full operating temp. I may switch back to 6R12 or find an alternative. With the 6R12 plugs, my bike took longer to warm up before I could ride it initialy but ran good afterwards. Now I get a constant slight pinging while driving and if I get caught at a light, I'd better shut down or pinging will get worse. | ||
| Caboose |
I have a problem with my 2001 X1. It has been running like a champ up until today. With 2700km on the clock I have encountered some sort of electrical ?? problem. While the bike is running, ie cruising down the road, the odometer will flicker or turn off, the speedo will drop the zero and the engine will stumble then die. The check engine light does not come on. I pull in the clutch, coast to a stop, turn the ignition off then back on. The ECM does its diagnostic check, the check engine light goes out, and if the odometer is lit up the motor will start and I'm on my way again. If the odometer isn't lit up the starter motor just clatters (the headlight is also dim), that usually gets the odometer back on, then the starter will fire the motor. I'm going to check her out now the the motor is cool, any suggestions or advice? |
