| Author | Message | ||
     Airbozo |
OK, I am stumped. I recently changed my primary oil seal and getting everything off was not an issue. After putting everything back together, the stator failed (no ac out and it failed the "sniff test"). So last night I attempted to tear it apart and for the life of me I cannot remove the sprocket rotor assembly. It just won't budge. It came off pretty easy the first time, but even though it seems to spin freely, I cannot pull it out to get the stator off. Any suggestions on removing that bugger? Thanks! | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can't get the nut loose? Or you have the nut loose, but the bell assembly (with the magnets) won't come off? I've had it do a good job of biting greasy fingers when I fight the magnets, but never had it stuck, I don't think. Are you trying to remove the stator bell, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together? | ||
| Airbozo |
Nut is off, Bell will not budge. It came off without any effort the first time though (when I replaced the seal). | ||
| Reepicheep |
Huh. Pull harder? I can't remember if there is a something to get a pulley remover attached too in there or not. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
You did not use a shit load of loctite? Can you wiggle it a bit ,or is it completely solid on the shaft? | ||
| Airbozo |
Well I didn't think I used too much locktite. I used it sparingly since it is the tough stuff meant for high torque applications. I did not see any down the splines, but it's possible. It will not wiggle at all. again, it spins freely but will not budge outward. I think I will have to take the chain off at this point so I have a place for the puller to fit. With the chain on, I can only get the puller jaw firmly under one side and I don't think i should be grabbing the chain with the puller anyway. I can just see me screwing up the chain... | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Maybe if you can pry between the sprocket assembly and the case very carefully with a small tire iron or a something that does no damage while turning the assembly. Only to see if there is any movement outward. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Was it locktite red? If so, heat will release it, so bust out the torch. | ||
| Livers |
Don't pry anything. Get a proper puller, Google 'timing gear puller' and that's what you need. Check for the proper width and get the bolts/washers, done. Put the nut back on the sprocket shaft, flush, to protect it before pulling. This is a 5 minute job with the proper tool. | ||
| Jim2 |
I second the torch idea. Just don't directly heat the outside where the magnets are attached. Maybe tap around the outside lightly with a small rubber mallet. Not so hard to bend anything or knock magnets loose. | ||
| Airbozo |
As I sit here working on 2 motorcycles, I ponder my luck at having 3 motorcycles, none of them running and I get annoyed. And frustrated. But I am taking my time and trying not to bust anything by taking a short cut. My S3T is my primary focus, but when I need to walk away, I am working on my 2009 XB12R I just took delivery of as I try to figure out why the rear cylinder is not firing. I also have to walk by my sportster project and think "when oh when can I get to it". I will not side track this thread with the other bikes, they are secondary, but I really want to ride the Firebolt soon. Back to the S3T: I have tried using a 3 jaw puller, but I could not get the jaw under the chain and I didn't want to force it for fear of messing the chain up. I was also able to convert it to a 2 jaw puller, but same issue. I cannot get it installed solidly enough to put any force on it before it pops off. I have a steering wheel puller (also listed as a timing gear puller), but there is no place to install the bolts onto the sprocket so that is useless. | ||
| Airbozo |
So I bought a cheaper 3 jaw puller since it has thinner edges on one side of the jaws. Still could not get it under the chain to grab anything and the jaws seem to not like the multiple sprockets since the jaws keep opening up once I get the thing tight. I found out that it was because 2 of the puller jaws are hitting the sprocket and the other jaw was _trying_ to grab, but since it was lopsided, it moved... ...but then, that third jaw grabbed onto the chain and the assembly started moving. I got it far enough out to remove the clutch hub and chain and then tried the puller again. It worked! ...and yes, I did get some of the locktite down the splines and that is why it was stuck. Cleaned it off and the assembly fits as loosely as it did the first time. Now to remove the rotor... Thanks for the support guys, I truly appreciate it. Part of the deal for me buying the new Firebolt, was doing as much of my own wrenching as I can (have time for). I'll start a new thread for the firebolt issues, but I have already gone through many of the threads here and elsewhere to narrow it down to the rear cylinder not running. Looks like it has spark, but I have not pulled th plug yet to check for fouling. Can't imaging it is fouled since there is only 600 miles on this bike. Could be the injectors since I don't know how long it has been setting. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Excellent! Good tip about keeping the locktite off the splines. | ||
| Airbozo |
LOL! I thought I used just enough for the nut. Guess I got generous. Taking my primary chain to have someone else look at it to see if I damaged anything. No marks or bends so I am just being paranoid. Spent over an hour trying to route the stator wire last night. I even used the string trick when I removed it, but no luck so far. I'll try again tonight when I am not so beat. Any suggestions on how to remove excess metal shavings from the magnets? I am pretty sure most of it is from when the tensioner shoe failed. I also want to clean everything out. What should I use to spray in the transmission and clutch to clean it? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Blowing it off with highly compressed air, and pinching it and pulling it off with a paper towel are the best tricks I have found (and they are still a struggle). |
