| Author | Message | ||
     I_like_moxie |
This is on a 2002 m2l cyclone.. Has this happened to anyone? and if so how did u go about fixing it?   | ||
| Reepicheep |
Get the Jims tool (or ebay knock off of same) and drill it out carefully. It will often back right out once you hollow out the bolt, if not, you can heli-coil it and it will work fine (I did it). Don't try an easy out, it will simply break, and then you have a hardened tool steel plug wedged in there that makes it even worse. | ||
| Reepicheep |
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Buell-Exhaust-Stud- Drill-Plate-tool-/140910484607?hash=item20ceeb5c7f &vxp=mtr (Have one in the tool box, haven't tried it yet, the Jims tool is a lot more expensive and has been proven to work well). | ||
| Reepicheep |
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JIMS-Exhaust-Port-Stud-Dri ll-Plate-Harley-Big-Twin-Evo-Sportster-XL-1705/380 930875022?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms =aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D30 425%26meid%3Daad23f397a4e4af3ba542554276ef8f7%26pi d%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D140910484607& rt=nc | ||
| Buellistic |
EXHAUST SYSTEM ASSEMBLY Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| I_like_moxie |
Wow awesome thanks !!! Was honestly having a hard time navigating forum. Plus spotty internet Have u been successful while still leaving front motor mount in ? I just got a 90 degree drill to try to reach it .. Regular drill won't make it past mount strait .. Thanks again! | ||
| I_like_moxie |
Also... Any of you know the length of the back side or , internal length of the stud is? Don't wanna drill too deep. I would think it would be same length of the external part of stud but I don't want to assume.. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Get the replacement stud first (I got mine at a HD dealer, but found them at my local (good) hardware store later). Then you know about the size you work with. As I recall, mine was not bottomed in the hole, so there was a "bonk" when I got through the bottom of the stud. You could probably get a dental pick in there also to feel for the gap. And you will probably feel the difference going from steel to aluminum anyway. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bill, does the one you got off Ebay have the boss on the inside to align it in the exhaust port like the Jum's? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, it has the raised part that goes into the exhaust port and stabilizes the whole thing. I haven't tried it yet, it's in the tool box waiting for a stud to break. If anyone cares, I have a spare head hanging on the wall and the tool so it would be pretty easy for me to go pull one stud, and test fit the tool to see how well it lines up. I am happy to do so if anyone is curious. Mine was the older version of that Ebay one, which didn't have the "two stage" drill guide that the newer ones have (which is a nice feature). | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Bluzm, If the 90 degree drill will turn in reverse, buy a left hand twist drill bit to bore through the bolt. Put plenty of penetrating oil on the broken bolt and let it stand overnight. With the left hand twist drill bit chances are the stud will back out while drilling the hole. Kenny G | ||
| I_like_moxie |
Thanks | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Left had drill are the bomb... have a full set I break out when needed. So far they have worked perfectly. Bill, I'd love to have you take a peek at the alignment. With all the Buell's in the garage I need to have one on hand just in case. | ||
| I_like_moxie |
This forum is awesome!! Thank u guys for input! | ||
| I_like_moxie |
I guess I can wait to find out.. But .. Have u guys been able to do this in frame of the m2l? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think it depends on which stud breaks. I did it in frame on a 2000 M2 when it was (I think) the upper rear stud. It wasn't fun though. Don't panic if you have to remove the head to get good access. You will need a new base gasket and head gasket, but it's not awful to take the head off. You might even be able to get away without the base gasket. | ||
| Reepicheep |
OK, I went out, pulled out a stud (that's a battle even when they are NOT sheared off) and put the ebay (older version with only one drill bit size) "fake jims tool" drill guide on it, and drilled into the now vacant stud hole with the supplied bit. Barely any shavings came out at all, it barely touched any of the threads anywhere. In fact I bet if I put a thread chaser down there, I could rethread in a stud and it would hold (not that I would recommend that, I'd go with a pair of heli-coils or a timesert. It did have maybe 1/32 of an inch of play in the exhaust port, which I am pretty sure I could have cleaned up with a layer of tape around the outside of the guide that goes in the port. But that didn't get in the way of letting the drill perfectly center in the vacant hole. And in fact it may have helped. So I'd recommend it for a Buell owner that wants to have one on hand for that once or twice in a lifetime use (though for me when it happens again it will be #3). If you are a shop though, it's a no brainer, get the better Jims tool and pass it down to your kids. | ||
| I_like_moxie |
Agh ... Not panicking ... But just received e bay tool it seems to be too gerthy for once it is in place; to get the drill passed the front motor mount:/ ... I don't know if the 2000 m2 is much different from 2002 m2l , but I can't seem to figure how to navigate around this front engine mount... The stud that broke is the top front.. Without the eBay tool.. I have what seemes to be a straight drill line... Little guessing game.. I have already started but don't know if I should abandon and just disassemble it? or keep going?... If worst case I'm off a little.. I would have to remove engine and heli coil any way... Is it ridiculously Reckless to give it a shot? I'm tryin to be patient but man I wanna ride.. And sorry if I'm beating dead horse with this but I'm no mechanic I appreciate the help | ||
| Reepicheep |
Make sure you take out the exhaust gasket remains (all mushed up in there) before putting in the drill guide tool. Can you just go get a longer drill bit, or maybe a drill bit extension, and still use the tool? I got one for running wires that is about 3 feet long, but could be easily cut down to make it easier to work with. Or heck, weld an extension to the bit that came with the tool. It's just a dill bit. As for freehand... I've done it twice, and it worked, but it didn't work well. First, you won't stay down the middle. You will end up about half way off the bolt by the time you get deep enough. The aluminum is SO soft and the steel so hard, the drill will want to go anywhere but the bolt. Then, you will break out the tap for the heli coil (or a tap for a bigger stud) and you will find it has a terrible time trying to cut your "half steel half aluminum" hole. It is INSANELY easy to get it jammed in there, so that you can't go forward, and you can't go backwards, and you get that sickening "tick" that tells you that the tap just broke off in there (DAMHIK). You think it's hard to get a stud out of there? Just wait until you try and get a hardened steel tap out. Now you REALLY have a problem. (The answer, if you care, is about 3 small bullet shaped tungsten carbide dremel bits. You will be pulling the sharp little shards of tool steel it ejects out of your hands for about the next 3 months.) So in short, it can work, but you don't want to go there. Find a way to get the drill bit in the tool in there. (Message edited by reepicheep on June 18, 2015) | ||
| Reepicheep |
(Or maybe just remove the front mount with the engine supported...) |
