| Author | Message | ||
     Xenox |
I hope and trust all is well with everyone going into the New Year! I need to replace the output shaft seal on my 2010 Uly it currently has 11k miles on it. A little miffed it went out already but it is what it is . I took the belt partially off to check the bearing and thankfully it seems fine. I can recite the FSM procedure for this repair from memory. The tool is unavailable I even called Kent-Moore with the part numbers and they don't even have a record of it, even though the tool has the company stamping and part number on the back of it. I researched this topic on the www and here (Buell xb pulley nut, Buell xb output shaft seal) , and amazingly there is little to go on a couple of thread and that's about it. So there is little occurrence of this happening, or when this happens it goes to the dealer , or most of the time it's an uneventful repair? However some have noted the nut was a challenge to remove. Some have used the belt to hold the pulley via brake or blocking the rear wheel. I don't mind buying a new belt but maybe the belt can still be serviceable after being used as a tool? Others have used an impact to remove the nut and some have heated . I'm leery of using heat..It seems the least amount of problems came from those that used a strong impact with 110 psi , trans in neutral had the seemingly best success.I'm a little leery here too I don't want to jar anything needlessly. Of those that have repaired it themselves ; What method worked best for you? Did the new seal or bearing last after the repair? Of the tech/mechanic vets that may be reading this . Without the proper tool ..What is the next most efficient way to remove the nut and still be friendly to the system? I have a dealer that still supports Buell within walking distance but I feel they are a little shy of Buell..... I spoke with the service manager who informed me that this repair would be handed to one of the most experienced mechanics there. They don't have a Buell tech per say . If I take this route would the experienced techs consult the FSM ? I'm thinking if they have the tool they could do this properly? They want about the same amount as what a new belt costs. Everyone's thoughts that have been involved in this area are most appreciated, btw I have a bit of mechanical experience. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Xenon, This is the tool you need to remove the drive pulley. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/910-576?source=myb uys&green=F1A6C8D6-346B- Use the proper socket, probably going to be a 3/4" drive. Probably need a long breaker bar. I use a 3/4" drive torque wrench (Harbor Freight special) that's about 4' long. If memory serves, it's a 1 7/8" socket. There is a special low profile socket available but a std size will work too. The specialized socket has the inner side walls go all the way to the base of the socket, no rounded over lip so it seats all the way down to the pulley. The nut is thin so you need all the socket area possible so it doesn't slip off. Remove the sprocket, pull the seal, tap new seal in place. Make sure you don't c ock the seal on the way in. Keep it as square as you can. | ||
| Xenox |
Thanks for the lead! I couldn't find my bike on the fitment chart, will this tool work anyway? | ||
| Xenox |
I feel I need to update this thread . I think I may have jumped to conclusions or assumed where the actual leak is coming from. I found oil on top of the transmission housing area and it seems like it's running down behind the pulley as if the seal is leaking. I have checked as best I could for cylinder/rocker box leaks and haven't seen anything significant, Fan seems dry. I can't determine it's coming from the starter gasket though it looks very wet back there. I'm going to clean and see if I can detect where this leak is coming from. |
