| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Steve, Uh, was that the new HQ or the old HQ? I did a u-turn in their driveway once, they don't like that.  Anyway, pop open the little inspection cover and check your primary slack. When mine got loose it made the bike sound like a gravelly old tractor. If you remove the clutch inspection cover (watch the the spring in the center to fall off, and watch for the o-ring as you put it back on) you can get an angled view of the primary rub block or tensioner. Do you still have the stock one in there, or does your bike have the spring-loaded m2 tensioner ("m2" in this case does not refer to the Buell M2). If, after opening the little inspection cover you find you have lots of slack, then adjust it per the procedure in your service manual. If you don't have one then reply and I or someone else will get out their manual and walk you thru the specs. If the slack seems fine, but after opening the clutch inspection cover you see the teflon block desintegrated (sp?), then go to your local dealer and get the new and improved (actually it's an older one) tensioner block. They sold me p/n 39975-90A for my 2000 M2, I didn't need it yet but felt it was time to get one "just in case" since my mileage is approaching 15,000 and is quickly going to exceed 21,000 in the next month or so. | ||
| Turnagain |
Hey Mikej, That would be the George Herbert-Walker Bush Center for Intelligence. Did wonder if they planted some vehicle disabler in the road. (~; I'll take a look in the A.M. and see what's to be seen. If that's it, I'll locate a manual -- should be able to find the on-line version somewhere. Hopefully it's not damaged by me riding it home, but I just hated the thought of being stranded. It was one hell-of-a nasty sound. Thanks, Steve(2) | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Steve, Let me know if you need help. | ||
| Mikej |
Could be the primary slack snuck up on you gradually until it started contacting the inside of the primary case. I've read here of other's having that happen. Sounds so-so typical Harley, masked by loud exhaust, ear plugs, helmet wearing, until it finally reaches contact with the housing then seemingly all of a sudden it sounds like you just started dragging a muffler or something. If the primary chain is really loose you might want to drain and change the primary fluid just to help get any shavings out of there. But I wouldn't worry too much about it until you get a look at it in the morning. Probably just a loose chain, and you probably caught it in time (at least I hope that's all it is). ps, just thought of something else (that paper & pen edit icon is neat Blake), while you have the inspection ports opened up, poke at the primary sprockets some and verify that they are tight. Someone recently mentioned one coming loose, either their nut backed off or wasn't tightened down properly or a bearing wore out or something like that. But just to be on the safe side (not to cause you to worry either, sorry), see if the sprockets wobble any. Maybe whoever it was that recently mentioned it will chime in here with a comment or two on what to look for. | ||
| Turnagain |
Had to run into the office to grab some tools and print some stuff. Jose, Havin' trouble opening up BU2a. The intro indexes to section 6 (Drive/Trans). Can't locate the pdf's here either. Did find BU6a.pdf (file 16) at ukbeg.org.uk/contentsfr.htm, but I'm having a tough time viewing/printing/saving -- locks tight after a few pages (I/O error).  Any good versions out there? oh well, back home to open the inspection cover (it's on there good). Steve(2) | ||
| Mikej |
Steve, I've got it if you need it, let me know if you can handle an email with a 1.8meg attachment. I'm on a fairly slow dialup but will send it to you. The pdf file is 19 pages long. I think this is the 1996 S1 manual that used to be on some former page online and disappeared. Ah shoot, I'll just take a chance and send it. Steve, you got mail, a HUGE mail. | ||
| Turnagain |
Mike, Got the mega-file -- thanks! Opened up the inspection and derby covers. Didn't see much, though the slack may be a little more than specified cold. Went for a short ride to try to see if it would change, but it didn't look any different. Still not exactly sure what caused the grinding sound. Maybe the tensioner did break and what was hung moved when I continued to crank it. Either I'll open the case for an exploratory or wait and have the dealer do it when I take it in for a new front tire and the new rotor (that's a bit sloppy too). Thanks again, Steve(2) | ||
| Mikej |
Just trying to think what else it might be, you might want to pull the spark plugs and see if you can get a peek at the top of the pistons. Hard to diagnose sounds via words, but I guess there could have been a small chunk of piston break off that was rattling around in the combustion chamber until it found it's way out the exhaust port. Nasty business if that's what it was, and kind of far fetched. Was the grevelly sound only when you were moving, or did it continue while idleing? Did it still sound the same today, or has the noise gone totally away? I'm just trying to ask some questions that might get some idea-lights to go off in other people's heads. Hope you get it figured out. I remember once some "friends" poured some Cox glow fuel (model airplane gas) into the gas tank of my Yamaha two-stroke that I had as a kid. They thought it would make my bike go like crazy, all it did was run rough every once in awhile whenever one of the castor oil bubbles made it's way thru the carburator. Took about 5 tanks of gas to finally get rid of it all. Point being, I'm wondering if you might have got some stuff into your gas somehow, don't know, just another idea to consider. | ||
| Turnagain |
Hey Mike, It's pretty hard to describe other than to say as I was coming to a stop (clutch in) I hear a bit of a buzz and like you mentioned, the sound of something dragging, then it cut out. Happened real quick and totally out of the blue. Wasn't pushing it prior to that as I on Georgetown Pike with traffic. OK, so I was hanging back to get a good run at the twisties, but nothing hard.  The best description of what it sounded like when I tried to restart was gravel rolling around, rocks being shook is more like. Did that for several start attempts, then it fired up and sounded normal. yes, I'm bad, but being stranded without a phone, looking at a tow and wondering about a rescue, well, sucked! Recall (d'oh) the other Steve(#1) having something happen when he went to Daytona, though I don't recall (argh) the details. I'll ping him in the A.M. if my search doesn't turn up anything. Thanks for your help, Steve(2) | ||
| Mikej |
I'd say take Jose up on his offer to help then. Another set of eyes will sometimes see something the first set missed or overlooked. | ||
| Airborne |
Turnagain: When the stator in my bike went bad, I had that same sound coming from the front part of the primary cover. I had to use the "screwdriver hearing aid trick" to locate the exact source of the noise. (Use the screwdriver like a doctors stethoscope to pin point the noise.) Anyway. To check and see if the stator has shredded itself all over the inside of the primary cover do a voltage check on the charging system. That's the easy way compared to my hard way of figuring it out. I had to ride the bike home also, but the battery died on the way and I had to push it the last mile to the house. If the stator did shred itself you will have to start changing the primary fluid very often to get the chunks back out of the system. Just something else to look for and check. I hope this helps. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Turnagain... The sound you are describing was exactly what my '00 M2 sounded like when the primary chain was loose... so I would vote for that. The mystery is why it came and went so suddenly. It may be worth pulling off the inspection cover (easy). Check the tension of the chain (expands when hot until it just grazes case then cooled back down to just barely miss it? Possible, but sounds like a stretch). I think MikeJ's suggestion to check the sprockets for play is a good one also... if you can get at them with through the inspection ports. A loose sprocket migrating up and down the splines sounds like a much more reasonable explanation for the quickly coming and going grind. My chain tension was just plain loose, and would grind just about everytime I downshifted, but the sound is exactly what you describe. Bill | ||
| Buellzebub |
Turnagain: maybe check the engine sprocket nut too [factory spec 210 lb/ft + red locktite and they still can come loose]. i heard that this nut sometimes works loose and mills the outer primary until it fails. | ||
| Pangalactic |
Okay, this will probably be an easy question for most of you, but I'm an aircraft guy, and all of my engine experiance is in turbines, not recips. When I accelerate hard, I hear a knocking noise. I most often hear it from first, but I also hear it from the higher gears if I accelerate from say 2,000-2,500 rpm, i.e. I'm in a higher gear than I should be. I have had cars that have done this in the past, and my engine guys have always told me it's nothing really to worry about, but it's not quite right, never offering any real explaination. I assume they just didn't know what to do about it. Evidently, It's a pretty common occurance, but one I never had on my dirt bikes. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Pang42 | ||
| Mikej |
Pang, It's probably "knocking", not good. I believe anything below 2,500rpm in the Buell twins is lugging it. Try to be above 3,000 rpm before you whack the throttle. Your pistons will thank you. | ||
| Jasonl |
Pangalactic - sounds like knocking to me. If you have a carbed bike I'd say jet it to run richer to minimize it. But also follow Mikej's advice and try not to lug the engine too much. | ||
| Chuck |
check timing...easiest with "dial-type" light...IMHO trying with a conventional strobe light is not worth the effort...also use high quality gasoline! | ||
| Pangalactic |
Thanks- I had planned to install a jet kit, but hadn't done so yet, wasn't sure if that would help. I'll check the timing as well, as for the gas, I only put the 95OCT in. (There's only two stations around here that sell 95, and one of 'em is three blocks down the street ) | ||
| Bigblock |
Turnagain, if the magnets came apart on your rotor, you may well have to pull the tranny to clean it properly, an oil change or 10 will not get the pieces out of your primary side, as they are MAGNETIC! My bike made a bad noise for a moment, then the charging system quit soon after, luckily it was under warranty still, they installed a new alternator assembly after pulling and cleaning the tranny. This is worst case scenario, you may have just broken your chain tensioner, the new one is much beefier. I had this happen 1 month out of warranty! Quick and easy fix, though, and the new part is only 15$ | ||
| Turnagain |
Thanks for the input all. Seems as though things point to something behind the primary cover. Will probably let the dealer get in there when I do the front tire & rotor, though the curiosity may kill me before then. Will report back when there's something conclusive. Tx, Steve(2) | ||
| Tims |
Say, anyone had a look at the photo of the Thunderstorm heads on Buell.com. Don't look like the Thunderstorms I bought a few months ago. I mean the combustion chamber and the squish area look different. Has there been an update to these heads laterly? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Dropped by Steve M's house today to check out the primary chain. We only checked in one spot, and it was at 3/4" slack, 1/4" over the cold spec (3/8 to 1/2"). I think that's the first thing to try, but Steve wants the dealer wrenches look at it first. No problem there, they might find something worse in there. His rotor is probably out of spec too. It definetly rattles quite a lot. hey Steve, maybe some of the bad juju is leaving my bike and going to yours? | ||
| Turnagain |
Yes, well after four years of ownership, ya gotta expect some trials & tribulations. Just part of the experience. Thanks for settin' my mind more at ease and here's something from 'The World' last night for you. Puya | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Cool! thanks for that link. Yes, my bike is named after the band! I'm buying the CD today. They are playing at NATION in DC on Sunday, June 17th. I will definetly be there, on the bike. If it's raining I'll take the license plate with me. I wonder If I would get in trouble with the cops for having autographs all over my plate? | ||
| Skeptic |
Oil Puke! I had my 2000 M-2 out today for only about the 3rd time this year, and about 3 miles from my house I pulled over to check to see if I had my cell phone with me. When I got off, I noticed that the entire left side of my bike, engine, primary (and pant leg) were drenched in engine oil! I checked the oil tank and it was less that a quart down. I rode home and took the tank off, but I can't find any leaks. I have a high-mounted filter style 2-pipe breather mounted above the rockers, and the hoses look a little (but not completely) kinked. The top of the breather was dry, but the bottom was wet - along with the rest of the engine except the tops of the rocker boxes. This morning I flooded it when I started it (not used to warm weather), but I don't know if that had much to do with it. Even the front of the front head was wet near the exhaust, but not the front of the rocker box. I'm lost - where did all the oil come from? There had to be at least 8+ ounces all over. The back brake was even soaked. The left side of the bike was pretty much dry - although it looked like some had dripped down the header. I washed everything off and will see what happense when I start it. ANY SUGGESTIONS? Skeptic | ||
| Ocbueller |
Skeptic, Check your primary fluid level. If it is overfull it may be a bad crankshaft seal(commonplace in Buells). The engine oil will leak into the primary and puke out of the trans vent usually on the left rear of the bike. Mine was covered under warrantee. Good Luck SteveH | ||
| Blake |
"I checked the oil tank and it was less that a quart down." Skeptic: Sounds like you may have overfilled your oil tank. The dipstick will show completely dry at just over a half quart low. | ||
| Skeptic |
Blake: I may have. In fact, it may still be too high. where would the oil have come out from in that case? Upon further inspection, the breather did not seem to be the source. It was not saturated with oil and the hoses appeared dry inside. I started it and let it run for a few minutes but I didn't see anything wierd happening. I didn't get any farther today. Test drive tomorrow. Skeptic | ||
| Skeptic |
Ocbueller: The oil reached quite far forward and up under the tank. Do you recall if that was the case on yours? I didn't check the primary fluid yet, but that sounds like a possibility. Of course, the bike only has a couple thousand miles on it and is out of warranty - so I hope it's nothing major. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Skeptic, My oil didn't go further forward than the battery, the vent tube on my X1 sits inside the left of the tailpiece so the fluid runs down the kickstand and over the left side of the rear wheel. If you added more than a quart to the oil bag, then I agree with Blake that it may be as simple as overfilling the oil. These bikes need their oil checked immediately after running or gravity may allow some of the oil in the bag to enter the motor and give a false reading. Hope thats all it was. SteveH. |
