| Author | Message | ||
     99x1 |
"...only to stall again when hot." The speedo sensor can short only when warm, maybe disconnect it for a ride. When it doesn't start, can you smell gas? (are the injectors firing?) Does gas squirt out the Schreader valve (tire valve thingy for checking gas pressure near tank outlet) - carefully, it is at 50 psi. Does the engine lamp light when the engine is hot and doesn't start? The 30 amp breaker could be opening and then cooling down? Check the ignition ground connection at the left rear underside of the tank (common fault). Check the spark plug cables - open cables can work (just a bigger spark gap), but the radiated surges can shut down or overheat computers. With the engine cold, use a hair dryer on the coil, relays, ECM, etc.. to see what will cause it not to start. Disconnect the voltage regulator to see if the regulator is shorting out when hot? (pull the lights fuse so the battery will last). Swap the ignition and starter relays on the fuse panel? Good Luck... | ||
| Rmckennon |
'99 S3 recall nightmare I took my bike to the dealer for a recall... no big deal. they installed a little 2-peice clamp that supports the throttle cables better (I guess). A couple of months later my speedo and tach stopped working... I troubleshot the problem to be that the combined ground that they use was gone. I created a new ground and all was good. Then last month while riding home, the Ignition fuse blew. Further troubleshooting revealed that it only blows when I "goosed" the gas. I could ride the bike all day long "babying" it, but as soon a you "get on it" the Ignition fuse would blow". Jumpering 2 pins on the data port give diagnostic call-out of 3-3, indication fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump. Still blows the fuse  Further troubleshooting and intuition led me to look at the recall area... and sure enough.. the clamp that was installed was cutting into the main wire harness when you "goose" the engine. This caused the break in the ground wire for the speedo and tach as well as grounding a power wire and blowing the ignition fuse!!! I just took it back to the dealer and they should be fixing the problem (I hope!). Either the recall was installed incorrectly or it was poorly engineered. Just wanted to share this experience. Rob McKennon | ||
| 99x1 |
A couple of years ago, (when I owned a BMW) someone had made color pictorial wiring diagrams for BMWs (the color of the wire on the diagram actually matched the color on the bike - ie a black wire with a white stripe was colored thusly on the diagram). The sheet was laminated and could fold so it would fit under the seat. IIRC, there was other info on the back side. He was selling them while laid off from his job. There currently is something similar on eBay (search on 'BMW color wiring diagram') Anyone doing something similar for Buells? I'd buy one.... | ||
| Usmarinenco |
How much would you pay? HAHAHA!! Between the Marine Corps and my own company of Web Design...I might find time to create one! I was in school for electrical engineering for 2 years....hell...wires are nothing! (HAHAHA) | ||
| Johnnyvince |
I managed to get a piece of electric tape around that flaw in my rear fuel injection wire and I'm riding for the time being until I have the time to pull the tank and fix it right. Thanks again! I'm good for one of those color wiring diagrams for my X1. I had one for my VW Karmann Ghia a loooong time ago and I know how handy they can be. BTW- Just where the heck is the speedo sensor????? I have a factory service manual and it is simply not in there as far as I can tell. After not finding it in the index I went through the whole book page by page and only found it in a single wiring diagram (not useful as to location or appearance). Thanks for the suggestions regarding my friend's 99X1. I'll pass the info along. | ||
| Outrider |
HELP!!! I installed a new set of handlebars on my X1 today and ended up with the classic "extra part" when I finished. I believe the part is an electrical contact from inside the starter button housing and may be part of either the starter switch or the on/off switch. The part is a cylinder about 1/8" tall with a diameter of about 1/8" on one end and about 1/16" on the other with a square shoulder in the middle. Wouldn't have been a problem but the housing fell and all the switch components ended up all over my garage floor. Went to the dealer and they didn't have one in stock to either buy or look at and the service manual doesn't go into detail on the switch assemblies inside the housings. Have everything back together and the everything works. The starter switch feels ok but the on/off switch feels a little rough. Any information concerning where this cylinder goes will be greatly appreciated. Note to self...Never answer the phone when holding parts that can disassemble themselves. | ||
| Reepicheep |
When the service manual left me wanting, the parts manual has often come to the rescue, the exploded diagrams are very good (give or take some spacer locations on the front wheel diagram). | ||
| Outrider |
Reep...If your response was directed to me, I checked the parts manual at Hal's first and then Bomber checked his service manual for me. Neither addressed the detail as the housings are replacement parts. I checked the entire KV on this thread and the X1 Files prior to bothering either Hal's or Bomber. Am just hoping someone has had experience with R&R'ing the starter switch housing. In retrospect, being mechanically declined, it would just be my luck that it came from the light control housing. I checked everything but the horn. Oh well, more fun when I get back from today's ride. LOL | ||
| Outrider |
Well, it isn't the horn. Everything in the light switch housing works like new. | ||
| Hootowl |
Anybody ever rebuild their starter? I think mine's going South. Think I can get it out without pulling the exhaust? | ||
| Road_thing |
Hoot: I've had my starter off, but haven't rebuilt it. On the S-1, I was able to wiggle the starter/solenoid assembly out past the header, but your X-1 header may not leave enough room. I'm sure somebody here will know for sure... rt | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hoot... I could not (on my 00M2). The exhaust had to come off. | ||
| Hootowl |
I was afraid of that. I've got D&D headers too, which relocate the O2 sensor slightly. Looks like it's even more in the way than stock. We'll find out tonight. | ||
| Hootowl |
Are the XB and tuber starters the same animal? | ||
| Hootowl |
Well, after removing my primary cover, primary drive chain, and exhaust system, I was able to get my starter out. Looks like my crank oil seal is shot too as I drained 2 quarts of oil out of the primary and my oil tank is nearly empty. (No, I haven't ridden in a while.) Easy enough now that I've got it down this far. Being the cheap ••••••• (what I can't say astardbay?) that I am, I took the starter apart to see if I could salvage anything so I'd have to buy less parts. I took the brush plate off, waiting expectantly for the "pop" of the brushes slamming together...nothing. The brushes are rusted to their carriers. I'm guessing that once I free them up, they will make sufficient contact with the motor again. It makes perfect sense now I that I think about it. It got worse and worse over the course of a few months. Eventually, the brushes weren't making contact anymore. Some water must have gotten in there through the vent in the bottom. Everything else in there looks pretty good. Now to buy some gaskets... | ||
| Road_thing |
Good news, that. Clean living and high thinking pay off again! rt | ||
| Philip |
fred finch alternator and starters on shepard just north of 43rd/crosstimbers rebuilds h-d starters. he has done car and truck starters for me and a buddy that wrenches on harleys uses him a lot. just in case. | ||
| Easy_rider |
Outrider, If you can store your extra part away for the remainder of the riding season I may be able to get some pics of the innards of mine this winter. I'm contemplating slipping a switch into the spot where there's a blank plate. After not being able to find all of the parts of my left-hand side earlier this year I don't want to take a chance on losing parts and precious riding time. | ||
| Bikephreak |
MY 95 S2 is cutting out after it warms up. it seems to happen between 2000RPM and 3000RPM. it gets worse the longer i ride and the problematic rpm range widens. it acts like the motor cuts off and back on really quick. the tach needle drops and then jumps back up to where it should be. The battery is at 12.7V. I just got the bike so i don't really know a whole lot about it. It has 5660 miles and has sat more than it has been ridden. Any suggestions? | ||
| Loki |
I wish I could start a new thread.... | ||
| Loki |
Since I have the S1 apart doing various items. I thought about this little project. Adding some extra informational output devices. 1- The panel itself  2- Add a couple items  3- Put them together  4- Put them on the S1  5- Check for clearance left  6- Check for clearance right  7- Stand back and ponder somewhat  8- Ponder some close up  A little more work to do with this. I think it will turn out pretty darn nice when done. At least for my tastes. | ||
| Hootowl |
Is that a water temp gage? I've always wanted a clock for mine. Where did you get that panel? | ||
| Hootowl |
Make it yourself? | ||
| Bluelightning |
Hoot, I noticed the water temp gauge myself. Was king of wondering if Loki perfected the "Revo" mod for his S-1..... Loki. Looks nice, matched the billet dash really well. You could take that open spot where your water temp gauge is and put an air/fuel ration gauge. The only thing you would need is to weld in the bung for an O2 sensor. | ||
| Loki |
The panel is my own work. I finally found a set of 1.5 inch mini guages that I liked. Yes that is a water temp guage...it is gonna see duty as my oil temp though. There are going to be a couple other variations on this set-up. Looking to mock up some of them in the near future. I have this really wierd idea of buying a small mill set-up and a building to put it in. Especially if a new job hits me in the next month or so. | ||
| 99x1 |
CaptainKirk said " I've been kicking around ideas and your LED thing fits right in." This is what I have come up with so far: Bat_Monitor prototype. I could use a tri-color LED (RGB) and make it do any colour, different levels, etc.. as it is all in software (flash memory on the chip). Suggestions? Ideas? TIA! | ||
| Captainkirk |
That is TOO cool. Sounds like you've got it all thought out. Let me know when you're in production!!!!  | ||
| Bomber |
Loki GREAT work, sir! an inspiration for the upcoming winter | ||
| Loki |
Why thank you Mr. Bomber. This little ol' spot on the inet sure does lead to some projects. The additions are now wired and plumbed onto the S1. Now to fix the leaking oil tank. btw: I really hope to be up and running for the "Twisted Texas" venture. | ||
| Bomber |
Loki -- does your secondary dash plate sandwich between the primary dash and the upper bar clamp? didja mill the secondary dash a little, or is that a magic marker line? details, man, details! also, what kind gauges you using? I've used Autometer Phantoms, similar look also, how'd you plumb the temp sensor? |
