| Author | Message | ||
     Iamike |
5liter- When my ignition switch started going bad I just tapped an double pole on-off-on switch across my switch leads. Connect the + to both sides of the middle terminals, the accessory to a terminal on one side, the ignition to a terminal on the other. Then make a jumper from the one side with the accessory to the terminal next to the ignition. Hide the switch underneath the dash and just use it for your switch. It's a lot cheaper than a key switch. | ||
| 5liter |
Iamike: With my luck with things electric, it'll be cheaper for me to just get the lock.  | ||
| Iamike |
It's kind of fun to see things go pow, smoke & burn....as long as it isn't yours. We get some pretty neat explosions once in a while here in the utility business. | ||
| Knickers |
Here's the follow up to my two minutes of no lights/horn/speedo problem after startup: All the affected components are powered by the accessory circuit so after checking that their grounds were good I started digging on the + side. Fuse was good and jumping +12 there gets everything to work. Moving upstream, I pulled the fairing and checked voltage output from the switch. With the key in acc position I get +12 on the wire, but with the key in run I got zero. Then after a couple minutes I get +12 again on the acc wire. Definitely a bad ignition switch. Ordered a switch with my key code ($112!!) but the dealer says its going to be a couple of weeks. I think I'm going to have to hook this all up to a light switch and hide it in the fairing this weekend so I can make it to mid-ohio. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
hey wuts up everyone? hey everyone im having a problem im stuck up in daytona beach right now 400 miles from my house. for some reason when i turn the kill switch to run the fuse pops. ive already checked all the lines for shorts and none. also ive already checked the switch box and nothing. what else can i check the fuse only pops when i turn the kill switch to the run position please help its urgent | ||
| Bomber |
have you tried unplugging the kill switch? | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
yeah and it still does it. is there anyway that i can atleast get the bike running. so i can get it home | ||
| Bomber |
it sounds like the problem is upstream of the kill switch in the wriing harness . . . .got a meter? looked for short to ground in that part of the wiring you won't get it running til it's fixed, or bypassed . . . just don't put a penny in the fuse box | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
is there any way to bypass the switch so ill only have the key to turn then hit the start button. instead of having the kill switch | ||
| Uwgriz |
Yeah, a jumper between the two wires going to the switch. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
yeah but wut im trying to figure out is it going to catch on fire if i do that. also wut gage wire should i use. but do the wires go str8 from the fuse to the switch or does it go fuse to starter then switch | ||
| Bomber |
cruz -- go the quick board, read, log off no fires will insue | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody try one of these? My engineering background is in instrumentation, data acquisition, and software development, and their approach looks very good, and the price reasonable for the overall package. The Dyno feature would not be perfect, but, well, neither are Dynos (Notice any bike Aaron builds seems to gain 5 horses just by moving to another Dyno at a lower elevations). But I think what they are doing is more then enough to be useful. The only thing they need to add is an exhaust gas analyzer. Then it would really rock. Anyway, it is looking pretty good to me, anybody try one? I got the link from the Harley Performance Yahoo group. http://www.veypor.com/product.html | ||
| Ocbueller |
Never seen this one before. Looks damn good. A little pricey compared to those cheap bicycle computers though. Would like to hear some feedback from some users. SteveH | ||
| Bomber |
gotta laugh at the company name (goodness knows, having written documentation and provided training on a bunch of products over time, I've developed manuals and classes on "Veyporware," and more than once ;-} sure would be handy for us shadetree tuners, and would help dispell the "it MUST be faster, I've spent so much money" standup routines | ||
| Henrik |
Bill, I think you ought to buy one and test it out for us. But it does look promising, provided you have a deserted stretch of road to play on  Henrik | ||
| 99x1 |
After having the positive lead on my regulator shake open, burn up my regulator, and have to swap batteries to get home - I decided I needed a voltmeter. I installed an LED voltage monitor, but couldn't see the LEDs in bright sunlight. So.... I made a voltage to frequency converter so my tach would read voltage - an indicated 2000 RPM is 12 volts, 3000 RPM = 13 volts, 4500 RPM = 14.5 volts, etc... The microcontroller used is a 12F675 , (~$2.00 @ www.digikey.com) running on a 16Mhz crystal. A toggle switch mounted on the back of the tach switches between tachometer and voltmeter. If anyone wants source code, diagram, etc.. I could post it... (Message edited by 99X1 on August 14, 2004) (Message edited by 99X1 on August 14, 2004) | ||
| 99x1 |
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| Captainkirk |
If you would, please..... | ||
| 99x1 |
Ok, you asked for it.  The 12F675 has analog to digital converters as well as two timer/oscillators. The 10 volt Zener diode and the single input diode together drop 10.6 volts – leaving the difference across the resistor as the input to the A/D converter on pin 7 (0 to 5 volt swing = 10.6 to 15.6 volts input). The A/D conversion result is used as the offset into two tables to return with a 16 bit number representing the necessary period. A 16Mhz resonator crystal is used as each tick of the timer is 0.5 usec, and the period is then in 1 usec increments (makes it easier to calculate!). The timer counts up, triggers an interrupt when it overflows, where it is reloaded with the new period. The program just continually loops reading the A/D conversion. The output has to be shifted to a 12 volt swing to drive the tachometer, so a transistor is used to up shift to 12 from a 5 volt output. The 78L05 5 volt regulator supplies power to the 12F675. The back of the tachometer has screw terminals for a ground connection (Black), power (Orange), and the tach's input (Pink) – the power is taken from the terminals and the tach input is switched between the voltage conversion input and the normal tach input. I made it on a perf board, coated it with epoxy, wrapped it in a small piece of foam, and fit it under the rear cover of the tach. Total cost is ~$10? The source code is at http://members.rogers.com/sniderj/VoltTach_asm.txt (Message edited by 99X1 on August 14, 2004) | ||
| 99x1 |
Riding with the voltage reading on the tach is kinda strange, the tach reads ~2500 RPM (12.5 volts) at idle, but as you rev the engine the tach goes up almost like the RPM would - stopping at about 4250 RPM (14.25 volts). It is easy to forget the tach is not reading RPM! As well, chopping the throttle causes the voltage to go up, until the revs drop. (I think the fuel injectors and ignition draw less power when the throttle closes, but the RPM is still high?) | ||
| Captainkirk |
Thanks...now I'm assuming this is installed on the bike pictured in your profile........?  Will this same setup work with a remote LCD? I don't think I can ride without my tach now that I'm used to it. | ||
| 99x1 |
Yes, it's installed on my '99X1. And you are right, although I can hear my engine - I miss looking at the tach. As well, it appears auto and motorcycle voltmeters are heavily dampened - the turn signals cause the needle to waver, the fuel pump causes intermittent dips, etc... It is also not necessary to know it is exactly 12.75 volts - as long as it is charging (and not over 15 volts). So.... I think a better idea is a single tri-colour LED, that is RED below 11.75, Yellow from 11.75 to 12.6, Green from 12.6 to 14.75, and Red above 14.75. (or similar numbers). The power would be taken from the Memory terminal on the back of the speedo (so it is on all the time), and when the bike is off - the LED flashes red with a "Theft" lettering below it. (Or "Tracking Enabled" with the LED on Green, or "Armed" or ...) The circuit would become less complex as the crystal wouldn't be needed (the LED wouldn't have to flash exactly every 0.5 seconds), the transistor wouldn't be needed, and the 12F675 can drive LEDS directly. In sleep mode (between flashes), the microcontroller draws nanoamps. Cost would likely be <$5. A close item is at Battery_Monitor for $25, but doesn't pose as an Alarm system... | ||
| Captainkirk |
So, like...when is this gonna be on the market? (hint hint....) Actually, all the Buells are badly in need of add-on instrumentation/indicating systems. I've been kicking around ideas and your LED thing fits right in.  | ||
| Bigdave |
My 99 M2 left me stranded for the first time. I was riding at about 70 when the speedo, lights and ignition started getting erratic. The bike kept going for a couple of minutes but eventually stalled. I coasted to a stop and called my wife to bring the truck. All the fuses are good, and the the battery shows 12.5 volts but the bike pops the circuit breaker when I hit the start button. I saw a similar problem reported back in June of 2003 I think, but I never saw the resolution. Any ideas? I posted this message in the Old School Buell section before I found this area. | ||
| 99x1 |
"..bike pops the circuit breaker.." The circuit breaker itself may be defective - I think they are just a thermal breaker (re-make when they cool down), try taking the wires off (note which stud they go on) and jumper a 30 amp automotive fuse in its place. The wires out of the breaker are for the charging system (to the regulator), and to the keyswitch - the charging wire could be left off for testing. The starter circuit is the only circuit that isn't separately fused, so pulling the terminal (the tabbed wire, not the bolted on wires) off the starter would allow you to test the button circuit. If none of this helps, connecting a headlight lamp in place of the breaker can be used to trace the short. The lamp will be on with the short, and the lamp will go out when the short is disconnected... Good luck. | ||
| Johnnyvince |
Hi- I've got a problem with my 2000 X1 and am wondering if anyone has experienced something similar.........Rode my bike with no problems to the store. Started the bike to come home and while letting the clutch out in 1st gear the bike blew the ignition fuse (the 20AMP one). I replaced the fuse but when I turn the ignition switch on the fuse blows instantly with no fuel pump noise and no working lights in the tachometer (engine light and low fuel light). The headlight does work as does the neutral and oil pressure lights below the tach. Any ideas on how I can track down the problem??? Any input is appreciated!! | ||
| 99x1 |
"...blew the ignition fuse.." The speedo sensor shorting is a common fault, try disconnecting the 3-pin connector leading to it. The kill switch pulls in the ignition relay, and it's wiring may be shorting to the frame - pull the ignition relay in the fuse panel and this should leave only the kill switch circuit active (no ECM, pump, injectors,coils, sensors). The fuel pump can be easily disconnected at the connector near the rear left of the gas tank. The ECM turns stuff on by closing the ground circuit, so the 12 volt positive goes to the coils, fuel injectors, and pump from the fuse - check the fuel injector cables above the engine for rubbing. The ignition fuse also feeds the Bank Angle sensor, and the diagnostic connector on the front right of the tank. The clutch switch makes a connection to ground, so it shouldn't be related - but the clutch cable may have moved wiring through the steering head? Good Luck.... | ||
| Johnnyvince |
Hey 99x1- I sent my throttle body housing to Nallin Racing to be bored over the winter so the fuel injection wires is the first thing I checked after reading your response. One of the wires to the rear injector looks like the rubber is wearing through and when I moved it away from that steel support bracket between the cylinders I got my warning lights and fuel pump when I turned the key!!!! I think we can call this one "problem solved" except that I still need to pull the tank and fix the wire, etc. I'll give you an update soon. THANKS!!!!!!! As long as your reading this (and own a 99 X1) I've got another one for you....A buddy of mine has a 99 X1 that leaves him stranded as soon as the motor gets to operating temperature (15-20 minutes). It runs fine till then, but it backfires, then stalls and will start again after sitting for 20 minutes or so, only to stall again when hot. The problem is so regular that it will stall consistently within 100 yards of where it had days before when he's miles from home. He's replaced the cam position sensor and the engine temp sensor and maybe others too. Any thoughts? Last time I talked to him he was so frustrated he said he's going to sell the bike. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Check the O2 Sensor lately? Also, make sure that it is not a fuel problem. Was the bike sitting for a while? the screen could be clogged inside of the tank or the filter external to the tank could be clogged, and you are just getting a piece of trash blocking the fuel line. I have seen it before on my X-1 where that happened. It would run fine during idle, but as soon as I started to move, it would jostle the junk up across the filter, clogging it making it run out of fuel. Just a thought |
