| Author | Message | ||
     Michael Powell (Buellish) |
My transmission started blowing oil out the vent hose that comes from the top of the trans housing.The bike has 24,000 miles on the clock. In the 7,000 miles I've put on,this is the first time its done this.The manual doesn't say anything about the trans vent. I'm going to the H-D shop to look at the air/oil seperator.I'm also in search of a catch-can,small enough to fit up under the body work. Anyone have any thoughts on why its blowing oil all of a sudden?Where to find a small catch-can? Any help is much appreciated. Mike Powell '96 S2 | ||
| Daniel Dunn (Buelliedan) |
Mike, sounds like the trans fluid was overfilled. It only takes 28oz not the quart that the manual says. If you ride the bike hard and heat up the fluid it will shoot out the vent hose if overfilled. Just to be safe though, check your oil level. If it is low you could have blown the seal between the 2 cases which caused the trans case to get overfilled. Dan 99S3 00X1 | ||
| Michael Powell (Buellish) |
Don,I've got about 5,000 miles on my last trans service.I did add the proper amount,so I don't think thats it.Thanks anyway. Mike | ||
| Michael Powell (Buellish) |
Sorry Dan,my bad | ||
| 00' X-1 Race Stripe (Ccryder) |
Michael: At that many miles I would suspect the primary case crank shaft seal. Keep a good eye on your engine oil level. If it drops more than normal it could be your seal. Also you can sometimes tell from the color of the oil from the tranny vent tube. Sport trans is clear when new. You know what engine oil looks like so if it looks more like engine oil, then that is another indicator of the crank shaft seal. BTW: If it is the crank shaft seal, it would be a good time to replace the primary chain adjuster shoe. It's cheap insurance against it's failure. Neil | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Supplied by Neil Schwartz from his "Best of Tech" Collection: Detent Plate: THERE WAS A CHANGE MADE TO THE SPORTSTER TRANSMISSION DETENT PLATE TO IMPROVE SHIFT QUALITY. THE ZINC DIE CAST PART HAS HAD A MATERIAL CHANGE TO POWDERED METAL. THE RAMPS WERE REDESIGNED AS WELL. THE NEW PART # 33656-90A. THIS RETROFITS TO ALL 5 SPEED XL'S FROM 91 AND LATER. THE CHANGE OCCURRED ON APRIL 22,1999. the part costs @$4 or$5. it involves removing the primary cover and the clutch assembly then you will see the detent plate on the end of the shift drum. there is a spring plate type retainer that holds it on, the right tool makes removal and installation much easier, remove the retainer and plate install the new plate and retainer. check the shifter pawl adjustment and set it as required. reassemble and ride. this is just a brief description the service manual will show it much better and have better instructions, | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Supplied by Neil Schwartz from his "Best of Tech" collection Primary Chain Adjustment The adjuster is located on the bottom of the engine directly below the inspection cover. Adjustment is made by taking a 1/4" allen wrench and shortening the business end to about 1/2" (not a factor if you have the muffler off for primary juice service but will be very handy later as the chain needs adjusting at roughly 1000 mile intervals.) Hold the set screw of the adjuster with the allen wrench and loosen the locknut about five turns. Then turn the set screw in until the chain is within spec. Tighten the locknut whilst holding the set screw with the allen wrench to prevent it from turning. Recheck the tension, put the cover back on, and go do a towering three block wheelie to sinter the tension block (very important.) Primary chain spec is 1/4 to 3/8" hot, 3/8 to 1/2" cold. Pull the sparking bolts and check it at several spots by rotating the rear wheel with the bike in gear to turn the motor. Should be within spec at the tightest spot. The spec is for total deflection from nadir to zenith. Use locktite on the cover screws. Of course, your mileage may vary, wear your seat belt and safety goggles, and get the service book. It rocks. | ||
| Paul Batts (Xlwp) |
I would be interested in hearing from some folks who have changed the plate. How was shifting affected? Good or bad. Thanks PB | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Paul, I changed this plate in my '99 M2, '96 S1, and '96 S2T. I can't say I honestly noticed any big difference. It's a minor thing. BUT ... it caused a big problem in the S1. I started missing 3rd gear a lot, particularly if I was really on it. I opened it back up and took a little closer look at how it all works. The plate not only provides the detent function, but when you nail a gear it also has another function ... it keeps the shifter drum from over-rotating. Not with the detent notch currently in use, but with the side of a totally different ramp which butts up against part of the pawl. When you go to 3rd, it's actually one edge of the neutral ramp that prevents the over-rotation. That ramp is significantly shorter on the new plate, probably to improve the 1st to 2nd shift. For some reason, on my S1, it's too short, the pawl doesn't hit it, so when I nail 3rd hard the drum just over-rotates and I get 3rd and a half. I put the old plate back in and everything is fine again. Before the crash I had some pictures up here of all this ... use your imagination! So why does it cause a problem on my S1, but work fine on my M2 and S2T and several thousand other bikes on the planet? Hell if I know. Must be some kind of tolerance stackup. I examined all of the parts involved closely, no damage and it's not a wear issue. See ya, AW | ||
| Paul Batts (Xlwp) |
Aaron, Thanks for the feedback. PB | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
I was gonna fit the new cam plate too, but I got a much better gear change from setting up the position of the shifter pedal. I keep it tight to my boot , just above the toe part. This discoverey came about by changing the boots I ride in. I use to ride with Dainese, but the track day at Croix very quickly ground off the outer edge of the left boot. I took 'em back to the supplier because the billet toe peg, for gear shifting, had worn right through the leather. Not upto the job really. I exchanged 'em for Sidi Vertabre's and I have to report, they are a superb boot ! They do squeak however, when you walk ! Morale: Check the position\adjustment of your shifter ! Changing my boots made a big difference in the clearance from toe to peg ! Rocket in England | ||
| Joe Fontanella (Fontx1rs) |
Re: Tranny vent puking Mike, Make sure the vent hose isn't being pinched by anything. If it is, the oil will not flow back and eventually be blown out the breather. Joe F 99 X1 Race Stripe | ||
| Mitchell Lawrence Smith (Mitchs2) |
I have a 99 M2 and have changed the handlebars to the S3 type to get a more upright riding position. I have also added the Buell Tach Kit. The combination of these two changes gives rise to a problem with the routing of the clutch cable. The cable is too short to clear the dash of the Tach Kit over the top and I am unable to bend the cable sharp enough to go under the dash. Will another model Buell clutch cable give me more length? I am open to any ideas on how to solve the problem. | ||
| Jose E. Martinez (Jmartz) |
Mitchell: Remove the stiffening steel guide from the end of the cable and move it down behind the headlight. The cable should now bend sharper in front of the gauge. It will still touch it so put a bit of tape at the contact point to prevent chafing. Jose | ||
| Mitchell Lawrence Smith (Mitchs2) |
Jose Thanks for the suggestion. I was able to gain some slack in the clutch cable by diconnecting the ugly adell clip from the frame. I was able to pull engough cable to clear the top of the tach kit dash. I then used wire ties to secure the cable to the frame above the adell clip site. | ||
| Carl M. Reichenbach (S2carl) |
Hi all, Quick question for the masses. Yesterday I finished putting the Buell clip ons on my M2. I took it for a short shakedown run and noticed something funny. As I got on the gas in first and second gear, the clutch was shuddering something awful. It felt like wheel hop in a car, but I know the wheel was not hopping. I did have to remove the clutch cable from the lever to reroute it. That required me to shorten the cable sleeve. When I reinstalled the cable, I adjusted it to the same length as it was before. Does this seem to be an improperly adjusted cable? If so, should I adjust it to lengthen or shorten the cable sleeve? Thanks all Carl | ||
| krboller |
Question, my 96' S2 sometimes finds a nuetral when I shift up from 3rd or down from 5th, the shop was no help, said only "worked fine for us". Seems to happen when the bike is ridden infrequently, it has less then 11,000 mi, an M-60 primary chain tensioner installed and otherwise runs great. Any help? | ||
| Ken Sutliff (Gearloose) |
Hi guys,I've got a 00X1 with 3000 miles. Serviced at 500 and 2500 miles per book. The clutch has been adjusted per say as service manual states,but the tranny grinds going into gear as if clutch plates are sticking. If I roll bike back and forth in gear to break them free it doesn't seem to help unless I start it in gear,then they free up as if they are glazed.After starting in gear I can use tranny as normal putting in neutral and toeing into first with no grinding. I still have the 32oz instead of 28oz in the tranny could this make a difference or is there something else I need to do short of pulling clutch plates and checking for glaze.I still use Sport trans fluid but am thinking of switching to Amsoil instead. Any help,sorry for the long pos | ||
| Jim Armstrong (Jima4media) |
Ken, I am also having a problem with a sticking clutch today. I just had it serviced yesterday, and it was working beautifully for 165 miles, the all of a sudden grabbed and seized up. Modesto Buell put in new clutch cable yesterday, because the other one was chewed up for some reason. I also had a primary gasket put in, because of a leak at the bottom. I had Redline Shockproof put in yesterday also. The transmission was shifting so nicely, I thought it was a different bike. I had the whole engine replaced last summer when the clutch froze, the primary chain tensioner broke, wedged into the chain and pulled bolts out of the case. I can't win with these bikes... Jim Armstrong X-2.5 | ||
| Jim Armstrong (Jima4media) |
Tonight I got a message from Fred, a guy I ride with, and he had me check the clutch cable adjuster, and sure enough, it had unscrewed all the way up the cable. The jam nut must not have been torqued down when the cable was put on. My problem has been fixed. Thanks Fred. Jim X-2.5 | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Peter) |
I was looking through some stuff I'd saved, and found this. By Anonymous on Thursday, May 13, 1999 - 07:36 am: TO PROPERLY ADJUST PRIMARY CHAIN: Remove the inspection cover and o-ring BREAK OFF ALLEN WRENCH DOING SO-SCRATCH PRIMARY COVER AND FRAME WITH BROKEN WRENCH, CURSE WHOEVER TIGHTENED A 1/4" ALLEN BOLT TO 500 FT LBS.Measure vertical freeplay(Up and down chain movment).Rotate the engine to move the chain,so you can take several sets of measurements(4-5 would do). The tightest measurement(least amount of movement) out of all is your standard. This preferably needs to be done with a cold engine. If cold the minimum measurement needs to be no LESS than 1/4 inch. If less than 1/4 inch, adjust to 3/8-1/2 inch. The adjusting screw and locknut are underneath directly inline with the inspection cover WHERE THEY ARE ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET AT WITHOUT TAKING THE MUFFLER OFF,TAKE MUFFLER OFF,UNDO REAR BOLTS (5/16'S-FINGER TIGHT), GET ALL GREASY AND SOOTY TAKING OFF FRONT CLAMP, TAKE OUT FRONT BOLT, NOTICE THAT THE MUFFLER IS STILL CAUGHT ON SMALL METAL TUBE LOCATED INSIDE THE CHEWED UP ROTTEN FRONT RUBBER MOUNT-GET SCREWDRIVER AND BASH THE #%$^ OUT OF IT UNTILL IT FALLS OUT ALL BY ITSELF. REMOVE MUFFLER-YOU CANT BECAUSE IT HITS THE GROUND,GET YOUR WIFE TO HELP HOLD THE BIKE AS YOU LEAN IT WAY OVER TO GET CLEARANCE FOR THE MUFFLER TO CLEAR THE GROUND, WIFE SCREAMS AND DROPS BIKE ON GROUND. BECAUSE YOU WERE DOING THIS IN THE GARAGE THE BIKE DOESN'T ACTUALLY GET ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND AS IT WAS STOPPED BY THE CARBURETOR OF YOUR LAWNMOWER (NOW IN 3 PIECES) LAWNMOWER SPARK PLUG PIERCES PLASTIC GAS TANK ON BIKE AND FUEL FLOWS ON GROUND. FUEL FROM BROKEN LAWNMOWER CARB ALSO FLOWS ON GROUND. WIFE IS SCREAMING ABOUT GAS ON HER NEW $150 FERRAGAMO PUMPS (FUNNY LOOKING SHOES) AND STOMPS OUT OF GARAGE SLAMMING DOOR. SLAMMING DOOR JIGGLES THE SHOP LIGHT YOU HAD BALANCED ON YOUR TOOLBOX SO YOU COULD SEE INTO THE BLACK HOLE OF YOUR PRIMARY CAUSING IT TO FALL ONTO THE FLOOR AND BREAKING THE BULB AND IGNITING THE GASOLINE. YOU GET THE IDEA?. (get an M-6)big j& da birdman | ||
| Jasonl (Jasonl) |
While that was funny as hell...I can adjust my primary chain in about 20 mins WITH the muffler on. I've heard some bad things about the M6 and it's ability to control primary chain tension. The HD setup seems to not have that problem (if you change the shoe somewhere around 15k miles). | ||
| 00' X-1 Race Stripe, Neil S. (Ccryder) |
Hey Jim: I told you it was that loose nut behind the handle bars, oops, below the handle barsJ. I had that happen to me when I lubed the cable. Almost got all excited when I put everything back together and the clutch was shite! Lubing the cable makes a world of difference. They make a neat little clamp-on device that is big enough for the cable end and you can plug the straw from your lube of choice in and it's almost messless. Later Neil | ||
| Mark Raybon (Raygun) |
Has anyone found out if the new shift kit offered on the 2001 models will fit S-1's? The new BRAG newsletter just mentions a kit for the X-1, and another one that fits the M2 & S3. | ||
| Jim Lichlyter (Jiml) |
Mark, I was told by Dave King @ Manchester Buell that he was going to get the shifter for an X1 and give it a go. You could give him a call at 1-800-CYCLE93 and talk with him. I've seen the new shifter and it looks okay but would look better polished out. Later, JimL | ||
| Crashandburn |
I've recently started having trouble shifting. Particularly upshifts. It just won't go up into the higher gear. Sometimes whacking the shift lever (the Sportster part) unglues it. Sometimes not. I brought the bike in for service and they said the shift shaft just needed lube but I don't think the problem has ended.Thanks for any suggestions.1997 S3-T, 19K miles | ||
| Dougp |
Those in the know; I'm looking for advice and/or opinions concerning the transmission vent line. I'm in the process of changing all lines to braided s.s. and can't get that goofy "goose-head" bend at the top when using braided lines. So is a breather afixed to the end the best way to go? Or a just route it to a catch can? Never really notice much (if anything) come out of it before. Thanks for any reply. Doug P.  | ||
| Roadhawgs |
Has anyone had any problems with the redesigned shifter for '01. I've ridden other Buells and think this new design is alot harder to shift. Any suggestions are welcome. | ||
| Rocketman |
DouglePee : Hope this helps....................  Rocket in England | ||
| Tripper |
Roadhoggy; I put the 2001 shifter on my S1 and find that it takes a firm boot to get it into first. This to be expected as there is much less leverage available than with the up-and-over original. If your timid with it you will be treated to a long grinding noise. Once underway I find all aspects of the transmission operation to be MUCHO improved. Hoping to get some warm weather to see if I can get the oil warmed up to determine if I need to do the detent plate, but right now I think this is a pretty good mod. Getting rid of the ankle rub was nice also. |
