| Author |
Message |
    
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 07:37 am: | 
|
Ok ... so ... here we go ... I've got myself a read headscratcher here ...
My S1 was adapted to a dual fire ignition system at some point before I bought it ... and since i've got it I've managed to get the carbs working great; it will crank, rev, and idle absolutely perfect ... however, When I put the bike in gear and go to release the clutch the bike's ignition will cut out and it will die even if you have it revved up ... I was leaning towards any of the interlock switches being the culprit but... the side stand switch has been bypassed ... and I bypassed the clutch interlock switch myself ... the neutral switch works just fine .... any ideas? ... the bike only has 3800 miles on it ... i've been staring at wiring diagrams for a few days now but i'm honestly baffled ....... i have no idea what's going on ... it's like the ignition loses it's ground or power when you release the clutch .... |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 07:42 am: |
|
Oh ... and It's a 1998 S1 btw ... (skipped the part of the instructions where it said to post the year and model of your bike in the title ... |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:20 am: |
|
Not to criticize, but if this was my bike and my work, I would conclude that my bypass wasn't bypassing. I don't know off hand if the interlock switches are looking for normally open or normally closed... could you have gotten something wrong there? |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:22 am: |
|
Could it be a bad diode? |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:37 am: |
|
Reepicheep ... I honestly did think my bypasses were not working at first, but ... From what I understand the sidestand, neutral, and clutch switch are looking for a closed circuit to complete the loop for the ignition relay's ground ... with one of these open it kills the ignition ... the bypasses should keep the ignition running ... i'm looking for other ideas of places to look ...
Buell_bert... I considered that, and I did break out the service manual to start the checks but I ran out of time to work on it yesterday ... Can you replace just the diodes in the S1's wiring harness? ... my XBR has them right up in the dash with the fuses ... haven't seen em yet on the S1... |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:43 am: |
|
Since it starts and runs, start the engine, let it get warm(ish), then shut it off.
Put the bike in gear, pull in the clutch, and see if it will start. If not (seems likely, given the symptoms) I believe the problem IS with an interlock. First suspect would be the sidestand switch; confirm that it is bypassed.
Good call re the diodes, easy enough to check.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:47 am: |
|
The sidestand switch is bypassed ... that's for sure ...
It will start and run in gear with the clutch in ... and I know the clutch switch interlock is bypassed for the starter at least because I can bump the starter with it in gear and it will try to turn over (and also lurch forward of course) ... but as soon as you let out on the clutch with the bike running in gear it shuts down even with all the interlocks bypassed.... |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 08:49 am: |
|
So now you see my confusion ... lol |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 01:31 pm: |
|
Soooo .... any more ideas anybody ?? |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 02:00 pm: |
|
OK, after looking at the wiring diagram in the archives in the Knowledge vault (I really need a 40in monitor LOL, or much stronger glasses)....
Just for fun, try swapping your relays. Your ign relay may be getting dodgy. Simply pulling it out and reinstalling it may solve the issue. We should be so lucky.
Check your diode. With a multimemter on ohms, you should have continuity in one direction; none when you reverse the probes.
If I understand the system correctly, with the bike in gear and the clutch lever out, the system grounds through the sidestand switch. Yours is not. Either the bypass fix has failed, a wire/connector is not plugged in, ect. Confirm at the switch that the wire to ground (I coudn't tell a color from the diagram I looked at) is actually grounded, and that the bypass is actually conducting from 'in' to 'out'.
Sorry, no magic bullet-look here comes to mind. If you have recently done work on the bike, look there to see if something else got dislodged.
Dave |
Sparky
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 02:21 pm: |
|
You may have bypassed the clutch and sidestand switches, but in the process may have inadvertently broken one of the wires.
If it were me, I'd verify continuity from each of those switches to where those wires go using the stock wiring diagram as a guide. |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 02:44 pm: |
|
I know whatcha mean Akbuell !... those wiring diagrams are tiny ... And I'll be sure to put checking the diodes and swapping the relays at the top of my list today to try ... along with double checking the continuity of the wires at the bypasses ...
Quick question tho ... after looking at the diagrams .... are you supposed to have 12 volts at the clutch switch ? |
Kevmean
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 02:46 pm: |
|
I believe the diodes on the earlier tubers are actually in the wiring loom as well and not just plugged into the fuse box like on later tubers like the X1 |
Negative
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 02:58 pm: |
|
That confirms a suspicion of mine Kevmean thanks ! ... I had eyeballed the loom forward and backwards looking for any signs of diodes to check directly ... but the manual says to disconnect three different connectors and test for continuity in both directions (should only go one way) ... any idea on a way to replace these should they actually be bad? ... |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 03:50 pm: |
|
Look at the wiring diagram, and follow the wires to the sidestand switch. One wire (the diagram will give the color) goes to ground. The other goes to a 'connector', for lack of a better descriptor, that has the diode in it. If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Negative
| | Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 03:02 am: |
|
It goes to a splice ... I actually got the problem solved today ... turned out to be a •••••• ground on the ignition relay circuit that was cutting in and out with vibration ... I hate wiring issues ... |
Sparky
| | Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 03:07 am: |
|
Glad you found the problem. Some of us look forward to these kinds of challenges. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 09:02 am: |
|
Most excellent!! Glad you found the problem, and Thank You for letting us know what the problem was. Now go enjoy the bike  |
Negative
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2013 - 07:52 am: |
|
Lol well I envy your patience for wiring issues Sparky ... I hate em ... with a raging passion ...
Oh I've already almost put 1,000 miles on the bike and I've had it less than a week ... absolutely amazing bike ...
I sincerely thank everyone that chimed in for their suggestions and advice ... these forums are awesome ... I couldn't imagine attempting half the crap I have to both of my buells without the information and people I've come across on here ...  |
|
Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
Archive through June 11, 2014 »
S1 woes ...