| Author | Message | ||
     Chuck |
All . . . remind me NEVER to let Arvel work on my bike  | ||
| H_Man |
Yo Arvel! I'm just getting back from the emergency room. The darndest thing happened as I was following your suggestions. I pulled the plugs and they were indeed wet. I couldn't see into the plug hole too well to see if it was flooded. So I lit a match and nuzzled up reeeal close to the cylinder when.... Just kidding. I did pull the plugs and they were wet with gas. I left them out to allow the cylinder to air out. When I returned and replaced the plugs, still no start up. I also tried cranking her up while the plugs were out. While I'm not so sure what to listen for compression, I could certainly feel the air being forced out the holes from the pistons. MikeJ: This being Easter, I couldn't buy any starter fluid. I'll try that trick on Monday. I'll also check the coil for continuity (even though I really don't think it's the coil). Does anyone think it might be the ignition module preventing the bike from starting?? For all else who may help, see a couple posts above for the H&P of this problem. H-man | ||
| S2no1 |
Ah, but Chuck, at 13 the foot long flame coming from the spark plug port looks real cool. Besides your Angels don't quit watdhing out for you until you, oh 18 or so. H_Man, Well, now you know why I don't recommend that procedure any more. Works great on Honda 350 twins, but the hospital bill just doesn't make it worth it. Not to mention the problems explaing the bandages and baldness as a freshman in High School. At least you verified that there's fuel and compression. It's either over rich, or the sparks not strong enough. Checking the coil is a good idea. Arvel | ||
| Mikej |
Guess you guys never heard of fireplace matches, those 12" ones. Most people believe they are for lighting fireplaces and BBQ's, but nope, they're really for drying out flooded cylinders. And we won't talk about my hair.  Anyway, wasn't there some talk last summer about sparkplugs that had spark but wouldn't fire the engine? I forget what the reason was, but I think I remember several people mentioning they just put in new spark plugs and their bikes fired right up. Try it, if it works you're only out the cost of new plugs, and if it doesn't work you then have an extra set of plugs. | ||
| Chuck |
After eating certain foods . . . my brother can sometimes make a foot long flame come from his "plug port"  | ||
| S2no1 |
Chuck, Do you hold the match?  I hope you use one of Mikej's. Arvel | ||
| H_Man |
Here's the latest on getting my M2 started. I had planned on testing the coil for continuity, but I followed one of Mikej's suggestions from Saturday/Sunday first and the bike roared to life -- though briefly. Mikej suggested spraying some starter fluid in the carb. I did that with the fuel switch off first, then I tried it again with the fuel line open. The bike turned over and would run. But not on it's own. I had to continually twist the throttle to keep her running. A couple times it would rev high without me doing anything. I could have this wrong, but I thought the mix was too lean because I had to blip the throttle so much to keep it going. BUT, when I pulled the plugs, they were black. After all this here's were I am. (1) The bike still won't start and run on it's own; (2) I know the electrical system's okay; (3) I know the hang up with the fuel delivery system; (4) I'm not sure what the problem is; (5) I think I need to reduce the gas in the mix. Please keep all your comments and suggestions coming. While I'm pretty handy with tools, I'm a neophyte when it comes to all thing motorcycle related. A greatful H-man | ||
| Buellzebub |
is there a programable ignition module out there that will work with the Buells [97 s1]? i'd like to program in the "q" curve and be able to play with the redline settings if possible. also how does the stock [or race] module work with the larger displacement Buells[88"] 250 cdn pesos [quoted]for 500 rpms [race module] is a little steep for me and i'm looking for other options. thanks | ||
| Aaron |
The V-Thunder or Thunderheart ignition is fully programmable, particularly with the software and cable kit. Quite the toy. I personally haven't had good luck with the reliability, though. The stock Buell modules are pretty good, in my experience. Contrary to popular belief, they have the same 6800rpm rev limit as the race module. The only difference is stock module has some retard above above 6200 rpm. Look here for a comparison test. I have no experience with 88 inchers ... I'll let someone else address that. I don't see why displacement alone would change the curve it wants, though, unless the compression was changed. but perhaps there's something I'm not considering. Good luck! AW | ||
| Buellzebub |
thanks Aaron, i think i'll stay with the stock one for now | ||
| Ericx1 |
can somebody help me out on this one? when i set the timing of my x1's cam position sensor the way it is discribed in the buellbible,the engine runs, but with poor performance.also is the sensor plate at the end of the sloted holes. i do have a strobelight,when i want to check it, i see no mark .what do the single and double dot mark? any help would be welcome thanks in advance ericx12wheelie! | ||
| Jmartz |
Double dot mark is 20 BTC front cylinder. Slot is TDC front cylinder. Not sure what singlr dot is but I belive is reslted to the rear cylinder, either TDC or 20 BTDC. | ||
| M2cyclone |
What are the NGK part numbers that cross to the 10R12 and 6R12? | ||
| Ericx1 |
Thanks for the input Jmartz, but i allready found out what i did wrong. i,ve timed it on the wrong stroke.now thats' changed the engine runs ok. when the weather gets better i'll take it for testride. Thanks again, Ericx1 | ||
| Holligandave |
Made some new mods to my 2000 X1 this winter (BOSS, PC II, O2 sensor, K&N filter) and I've noticed at lower speeds around 3000 rpm, 2nd gear, the engine seems to run a little rougher, then when I'm at a higher speed (3000 rpm - 5th gear), nice and smooth. Any ideas why? I'm wondering if I should take it in for a Dyno Tune. I read from some previous posts that it should only take a couple of hours at most. Two shops I called wanted it for FIVE HOURS! Anyone have experience here? Not sure if these places are blowing smoke up my ..... Thanks Dave | ||
| Roadhawgs |
Has anyone tried the NGK DCPR8E (stock #4339)? I talk to an NGK rep. recently and he said that's the plug recommended for the newer Buells. | ||
| S1blackie |
Does any one know of side by side comparo testing ign systems from Crane,Thunderheart,Compufire Vs Buell race ign for a S1? I have the thunderstorm heads,jetted cv, pro pipe, and force cleaner with more mods too come.? Any suggestions? | ||
| Blake |
Take a roadrace riding course yet? | ||
| Aaron |
S1Blackie: Look here. I've done some other dyno testing of ignitions, too, on my t-stormed S1. Not really at liberty to share those results right now, but I would caution you against assuming that the stock ignition stuff is significantly constraining your stock engine. Tain't necessarily so. AW | ||
| Bomber |
OK . . . .I'm sure this is buried in the archives somesheres, but I'll risk a virtual pasting and ask the question anyhow . . . .. just got around to putting the new blast plugs into my Y2K M2 a couple of nights ago (10R12s replacing the stocker 6R12s . . . .. .. ) the rear plug looked OK, not great . . .dark chocolate, no signs of fouling . . . . front plug, however, looked pretty darned white! should I be really concerned about imminenet melt-down? Bike runs a bit better, I think, with the 10R12s installed, but it's not hot enough for me to tell if the pinging has gone away (never had alot to begin with) . . .the oil temp registers (and climbs) at the same rate as before. Being an FNG to Harley engines, I would figured the rear cycliner to be running hotter that the front . . . .. . where am I going astray? thanks for the help | ||
| Blake |
Check for intake leaks! Blake (forgivesbomberforpostinginwrongsubtopic) | ||
| Bomber |
Blake . . .wilco, sir, and thanks for the suggestion and the forgivenss . . . . . who'da thunk ya needed to post sparkplug stuff in the intake area! perhaps paprika will help | ||
| Acharacter |
OK, here goes the other day I stop off after work at the store, pull up in the parking lot cut the motor off and go in. I come back out turn the ignition switch and nothing!!!! well i say nothing but heres what i got parking lights, brake light, trip odo., speed odometer, and speed odometer light. So i check fuses they are ok check the kill switch its ok. tried every combination of neutral, clutch, and sidestand. Go get the truck. Get the bike back to my garage start looking at wiring diagram.Now from what i read the bike is acting like its the ignition switch, because in the park position all those things listed above work, but nothing else. So i start by checking diodes swap the diodes(these are the same diodes just swapped them, i was hopeing to see some sort of change)(have you looked at the wiring diagrams for these X1s.......sheesh) anyway turn the key, fuel pump comes on everything is working bike fires right up. Heres the question (finally) I know what i did didnt fix it anybody else had a problem like this and what was the fix. Im kinda leaning towards ignition swith just looking for feedback. | ||
| Leeaw |
I don't know if this has happened to me in the past or if this is something designed into the sidestand safety switch, but a fews times recently, I have tried to start the bike with the sidestand down. Sometimes it will start, which I know is faulty, but sometimes it will not start, and I have to turn off and then turn on the ignition (and raise the kickstand, of course) to get started. It acts like it is dead, but lights and all work. | ||
| Blake |
Bike will start with sidestand down if either in neutral or clutch is disengaged or both. | ||
| Airborne |
Acharacter: Sounds kind of close to an experience I had once. This may or may not be a cure for you but is good to check for to prevent further problems. Symptom: All lights on. Injectors primed. Nothing happened when the starer button was pushed. Hmmm, get mad. Shake bike. Then push starter button again. Strange, it starts just fine now? Fix. While washing the bike one day I noticed a wire that was dangerously close to the front pulley and was nearly cut in two. I spliced it back together and wire tied it away from the front pulley. It was the wire that ran from the starter button to the starter. There are other wires that run the same route check them also. Also I noticed that while washing the bike water gets into the area of the fuse box. I cut out a square piece of water resistance fabric from a old book bag and covered the fuse box with it. I held the fabric in place with one of those pony tail holders that my daughter uses in her hair. Here is another tip. Firmly reseat any plug connectors that you take apart and check the seals. I found moisture in the Speedo sensor plug when I had to replace it. And yet another one. I wasn't going to spend money on the side stand switch so I chopped the switch portion off and soldiered the two ends together and applied shrink tubing to protect the bare spot from grounding. Some one else suggested checking the wiring harness that runs through the triple trees for cuts and bare spots. | ||
| Acharacter |
Thanks for the input turns out to be loose connection to the ignition switch. | ||
| Fastback69 |
I know this has been gone over before but I need to find out about ignition systems. My dad converted his Sporty 883 into a Buell 1200 and now it spits, coughs, pops, backfires (carb), and stutters worse than it ever did stock. I remember reading (here I think) that larger cams will cause this with the dual fire ignition. '99+ X1's and S3's don't seem to have this problem and they have single fire systems, right? What's a good aftermarket system to get that will have good advance curves for the high compression motor and S.F ignition. Dad's bike has only one ignition module located in the points housing and not a module + trigger like my M2. I think he's considering the Compu-Fire Elite 1 system. Thanks. | ||
| Jmartz |
FB: Your dad's bike engine compression is likely higher and the spark needs to be retarded. Just move the plate 4 degrees back and I bet you it will run better. You will alter the idle advance that with dual fire might cause a bit of a rough idle. Try the V-Thunder programmable self contained version. jose | ||
| Fastback69 |
Jmartz, Thanks. We'll try the timing trick first. |
