Author |
Message |
Stevem2
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 06:28 pm: |
|
I just replaced the isolators on my 01 M2 with lots of help from Daniel Starr's note on the scot free method. I made my spreader from 3/8 threaded rod and 3/8 iron pipe, and welded on a nut as in his method. I also removed the tank and the top heim link to allow easy movement laterally. For the rear iso's, I did warm the left one to allow it to be compressed more easily, which went well in both directions. Only issue I had was ensuring the location pins were pushed in a bit, and I did run a drill into the iso's to clean them up...also had to mark both the frame and iso from outside to see the pin alignment. As far as getting the bolts back in, my right side was way off, and I used a hammer to tap the isolator to the rear a bit and it moved enough to all me to easily start the second bolt. On the front iso, the main thing here was that they now have chosen to use one made for HD that has a 7/16 bolt vice the original 1/2, so to get the best bolt, I would recommend getting the thing as a kit, or make sure you find the correct length new grade 8 with appropriate washers. The new front iso appears to be the D part. Mine was made by Cheng Shin (probably Lord but from China) which galls me, but will hope it does not fail like some of the earlier varieties. One funny thing that I found on this install was that with the bike up in front (I did this as I was rebuilding the forks and stem), when I released the bolt, the frame popped up with the engine jacked. I had to pull the frame down by hand to start the bolt, interesting situation that I have not tried to figure out, but no problemo. |
Bluebueller
| Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 01:11 am: |
|
Steve - I need to replace my rear isolators - any other tips you can provide? |
Bluebueller
| Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 01:16 am: |
|
and what do you make of this tool? http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/KAS -445.html |
|