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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through May 13, 2012 » New Buell XB12X (ULYSSES) « Previous Next »

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Carl0395
Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2012 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New guy here,

I need some help from the community. I purchased my new Ulysses about a month ago. I’m super excited about the bike, but I’m really worried about it. Right off the bat, there was a minor oil leak. The dealer quickly repaired this free of charge (thank you). But, they seem to be avoiding a bigger issue. The engine sounds fine at start up, but starts making a very unhealthy knocking sound after it warms up. Five minutes in traffic is more than enough. On the ride home from the dealer after repairing the oil leak, the bike threw an oil and engine light (not at the same time). Needless to say, I was a little freaked out. I had the bike towed back to the dealer. They say they can’t get the oil light to come back on and the engine light is an old code. The service manager tells me that there is nothing wrong with the bike and the noise coming from the engine is "normal". I've owned quite a few vehicles (never a Buell), and I've never heard a knock described as normal.

I love this bike and I want it to be healthy. Can any of you comment on this?
Thanks!
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2tracksam
Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2012 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You might want to post in the Uly section. I'm not sure what to think about your issues.. Checking oil on a Uly can be a challenge and I wonder if they got it right.
My $.02.
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Blake
Posted on Friday, January 27, 2012 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Checking the oil on a Uly is simple, no different than for any other XBike. Check it on the side stand on level ground as soon as you turn off the engine from a warmed-up state. Screw dipstick-filler-cap all the way in for accurate reading.

The valve train can be very noisy, but it wouldn't make a "knock" as you describe, more loud ticking or a metal box of marbles sound. A knock that manifest once the engine is warm might just be primary chain needing adjustment, or a loose stator/front-drive-sprocket nut.

The dealer ought to know if it sounds ok or not.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, January 27, 2012 - 06:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The normal sound of a Buell can be a bit alarming... you don't get to hear air cooled 600cc cylinders with pushrod valve trains very often these days... it's very... primal.

That being said, it shouldn't get worse when the bike warms up. If anything, it should get better. Not because it really gets better, just because you start to get used to it, and your put on a helmet to muffle it.

Did the dealer say anything else? Was the oil light because the oil was low? Would that have been from the dealer repairing the leak and not topping off the oil?

Really low oil will make your lifters not lift so much, and you will get a pretty fierce tapping from the top end.

And if it's an old code, why did the light come back on?
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2tracksam
Posted on Friday, January 27, 2012 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not starting a flame war, life is tricky if you don't know the rules. My dealer overfilled the bike at the first free oil change because they checked it after it sat, then drained too much out.
Also, don't tighten the plug to specs, it's way to tight and you risk,stripping the threads.
Good luck and Ulys have lots of personality you can hear, the knocking doesn't sound normal
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, January 27, 2012 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can, use your phone or other device to take a video of the noise and put it up on youtube or something for us. While it still wouldn't be as good as hearing it in person, we can help figure out what it is.

Your profile says you are in DC, the best dealer in your area is Frederick HD/Buell. If you can, take it to them to check it out.
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Rsh
Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I assume your profile is correct. You have a 2007 Uly with 16k on it, unfortunately the crank on the XB bikes is a weak point prior to 08.
If the bike has been abused (over revved a lot) or lack of maintenance by not changing the oil, could have caused worn bearings which will knock. An easy issue could be that the flywheel sprocket has come loose, that would also cause a knocking sound.
Some people think there have been more problems with late 2006 and 2007 engines. All the early year cranks are the same so I don't believe any specific problem exists with those years.
Hope it's something simple, good luck.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rsh, there was speculation about a batch of bad heat treating, or soemthign similar, on some of the 07 bikes. We are keeping a registry of crank failures, and while it is too small to be statistically reliable, there does seem to be a cluster of 07's that is worse than the years both before and after.

We don't know though. And it won't make Carl, as he has a 2007 anyway.

If it's the stator nut loose, you can probably make the knocking go away by lightly loading the clutch. Not enough to move, just enough to drag. The knock will stop if its a loose stator bell (at least mine did when it was loose on my M2). The knock will also have a bit of a "ring" to it.

Hopefully not another bad crank. The part that doesn't make sense (relative to a bad crank) is the engine light and the oil leak... though I suppose those could just be 3 independent simultaneous problems.
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Xbclaw
Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2012 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

should not be making any knocking or clicking noises at all. hold rear brake tight, front too if your talented enough let clutch out and work throttle if knocking starts to increase its likely lower rod bearings are shot. or safer way pull primary cover pull spark plugs find a tool to fit compensator nut and rock engine back and forth in gear and not and feel for excess play or knock noise. should not feel play in crank to rods
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