| Author | Message | ||
     Glitch |
Thanks Reep. I was wondering because this is the first problem I've had, and was curious if a stator could go bad on it's own, or if it was something that needed help to go out. I was going to do the work myself until Mikej mentioned warranty (thanks Mike). Can you believe a cheap bastage like me would forget something like that? They've ordered the stator and will do all the testing when a known good is in place. Soon I hope. | ||
| Glitch |
 | ||
| Glitch |
More info soon... | ||
| Reepicheep |
heeyuuup. Thats what a blown stator looks like all right. Except since when did they start coating them light green? | ||
| Glitch |
Except since when did they start coating them light green? I dunno. Replaced under warranty. New one taken off a new XB12 (thank you to Stone Mountain HD/Buell & Torqer for not making me wait for the back ordered one). No known reason, everything checked out OK. Since the replacement I've ridden well over 400 miles, and no more problems. Also, when they opened the case, it stunk up the whole dealership! The manager called the fire dept. thinking there was a natural gas leak! | ||
| Torqer |
I enjoyed the ride on Sunday Glitch. Glad to be helpful... See you Thursday night at the Vortex. | ||
| Iamike |
Glitch- That's what my wife said when I opened my primary up after my stator died. I have had several people tell me that the stator is a weak link in all Harleys. I went ahead and bought the Harley part since they had it in stock. Another guy told me he changed out his stator and not his regulator and the new one burned up too. So he suggests replacing both. Since the regulator is fairly easy to get to I'd agree. One place that has several options on replacement stators is J&P Cycles \newurl {www.jpcycles.com,www.jpcycles.com} Their price is about half of Harley's. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I just called Buell Customer service (which as usual was outstanding, thanks Kathy!) and got the updated part number for the speedo sensor. I have updated it at the top of this page: Updated (5 volt regulated) speedo sensor part number: 74402-95B (part revised 04/11/2004). Should be around $75. All tube framers would be helped by it. 2003 9r's can use it. 2003 xb9s don't need it. No idea about the 2004's or the 12's. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Jiri was kind enough to send pictures of the new speedo sensor, it looks a little different then the previous (multiple) versions. The reinforcement around the bend in the wire is obvious, which is good. Not sure where they buried the voltage regulator, don't know if its the small circular package in the top shot, or if that is some other part of Jiri's bike. The whole sensor body does look a bit taller, but I am going from memory. It took a long time, but it looks to be a very well done solution.   edited by reepicheep on June 22, 2004 | ||
| Crusty |
I just installed the kit on my 2000 M2. It's pretty straightforward; the only potential trouble area is if you don't have the special crimping tool for the Deutch connectors. The kit has extra parts that are needed for different models, and the instructions are model specific. Hopefully, this will be the end of the problem. | ||
| Lgpch |
Folks, we could really use your help on this one. Our problem is a 2002 X-1 that will not start. The battery is good, the fuses are good as well. We think it may be a ground problem because some of the dash components do not work. This is what is not working. - Tach is not lighting up. The speedo is. - The headlight goes on but not the high beams. - The tail light goes on but not when you press on the breaks. - No oil light, no neutral light. - Motor won't start, turn over, nothing. - When you turn the ignition key, you don't hear the fuel pump. We have taken off the fly screen, and the gas tank. We checked all connections for everything and we are at a loss. Obviously we aren't mechanics so hopefully some one here can give us some guidance. When the problem first came up, Lance (the owner) started up the bike with no problem, when for a ride and turned off the bike. When he went to start it up, nothing. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a million. | ||
| Roadrunr |
Did you check the wires connected to the starter on the right side? There is a flat type connector on one that came loose on my X1 a couple of times and it gave me similar problems. | ||
| 99x1 |
"- The tail light goes on but not when you press on the breaks." Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. The power goes to the key switch on one wire and then out of the switch on the other two wires - one to the lights and one to the ignition. As you have problems with both lights and ignition/starter, the problem is likely between the key and the battery. Try bypassing the key switch by connecting the 3 wires in the switch connector together. If you are certain there is no shorts, jumper from the battery positive terminal to the 3 wires in the key switch connector. The 30 amp circuit breaker could be faulty (measure voltage between the studs, should be very low with normal loads). If you are certain there is no shorts, jumper from one stud to the other. If the none of the above helps, you may have a ground connection problem. Measure the resistance from any easily accessible ground wire (ie black wire to the front turn signal) to the battery negative terminal. The speedo and tach use the same ground (ignition ground under tank rear), so it likely isn't a ground problem? The battery may also read OK (voltage), but open internally under load - check with a voltmeter on the battery with and without load. Good Luck... edited by 99X1 on July 05, 2004 | ||
| Hootowl |
Kinda sounds like a bad ignition switch to me too. | ||
| Knickers |
I have a somewhat similar condition that I haven't tracked down yet. When I turn the key full on I can start the bike, but for about 2 minutes I have no turn signals, speedo, odo, horn, or tail light. Then everything comes back all of a sudden. The headlight (high & low), tach, and clock are the only things besides ignition that keep working. The delay seems to be getting longer and isn't affected by turning the bars or fiddling with the switch. Wierd. I'm sure all these symptoms link up somewhere on the electrical schematic but I haven't found it yet. | ||
| 99x1 |
"I'm sure all these symptoms link up somewhere on the electrical schematic...." I would guess the main ground or a splice is flakely? The ignition/ECM/fuel injectors/pump/tach(engine light)/etc have a separate ground under the left rear of the gas tank. The starter grounds itself through mounting, and the headlamp may be making a ground connection through the headlamp housing? Do the turn signals work with the key in the Park position? If not, maybe disconnect one of the front turn signal's black wire and jumper both sides of the connector to ground. This would let you know if it is a ground connection or power connection problem. Related question: Anyone know where the main ground connection shown on the schematics is for fuel injected models? The negative battery cable goes to the frame on the left rear of the battery tray, and a braided strap connects the frame to the transmission mount nearby - but where do all the (non-ignition) ground wires connect to? | ||
| 5liter |
Is there a special tool for removing the ignition switch retaining nut. I have an 02 S3T with a switch that's going to need replacement. | ||
| 99x1 |
"where do all the (non-ignition) ground wires connect to?" Traced the wiring today: It appears there is only one ground point - one wire for the ignition ground, and another terminal with two wires in it grounding everything else. (see picture - yellow connector is ignition that had previously broke). Picture is taken from front of bike over gas tank area to the rear (battery is removed). It appears ground connections are done as splices in the harness, then end up at this point on two wires in one terminal. The battery negative cable goes the the frame behind the tray, and a ground strap connects the engine to the frame. Mine had rust on the frame where the terminal contacts it...  | ||
| Bomber |
5litre -- yes there is a special tool, but you don't need it get a pair of needlenose pliers, whose noses will fit in the recesses of the nut -- be careful turning, and you'll be fine! | ||
| 5liter |
Thanks Bomber. I never thought of that! | ||
| Bomber |
no charge, brother . . . .just don't squeeze the little dears real hard, or you'll scratch the chrome (I could post a pic proving this, but will leave that for another day!) | ||
| Lgpch |
O.K. folks, we got it figured out on the X-1!!! It's a faulty ignition switch housing where the key goes in to start the bike. One of our buddies had a circuit tester and tracked it down. It seems like 99x1 had the bead on it. Lance is pretty relieved. He thinks I know all about Buells but he thinks wrong. Man, I don't know the first thing about electronics. I did tell him that the people on this site are really cool and rabid Buelligans and they would have an answer. ALL YOU GUYS ROCK!!! I asked him to post a thank you here but I guess he must have got the password wrong or something because he is a good guy. So once again, thanks folks. | ||
| 5liter |
Lgpch: If you're going to get the switch replaced with one to match your key, take a few 50 dollar bills with you! Mine cost $266 out the door. | ||
| Henrik |
A friend pointed me to this regulator test. Can any of you electrical wizards take a look at see if it's worth including in our tech library?? Henrik | ||
| Lgpch |
5liter Lance was told the new switch would run $112.00 at San Diego Harley Davidson. So I hope that A: he didn't get the wrong part, or B: You didn't get worked! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Henrik... It has a decent background on how to use the diode tester, but I think our regulator is different from theirs. They talk about 3 yellow leads and a black, I think we just have two wires total. And as I recall, the buell manual *does* take into account digital multimeters in their procedure. The first time I was educated here about the fact that we have a full loss shunt type regulator, I thought it was designed by a madman. But the more I think about it, the more practical sense it makes. | ||
| 99x1 |
The diode test page looks good, but (as Bill mentioned) it is for the 3 phase alternator like in XB bikes. The tubers are only single phase and have 4 diodes instead of 6. Super picky anal technical point: It is titled "WORLDS_BEST_DIODE_TEST.pdf", but the "best" way to test diodes is under load and hot - usually with an AC transformer connecting as the stator, light bulbs connected as battery /loads, and a scope viewing the waveform. | ||
| Reepicheep |
WHAT! They changed the stator in the XB's? What about the blast? Geesh. For a motor that was not changed much, there sure were a bunch of things changed.  | ||
| 99x1 |
Yup, note the 3 wires from the stator to the regulator - don't know about the Blast....  | ||
| 5liter |
Lgpch: I'm probably a victim of "B" but I need an ignition switch and that's the price. Hopefully this one will last more than 11000 miles.  |
