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Author Message   Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2000 - 02:49 pm:        Belt tension measurement : if you want to control the tension on a regular basis or at least each time you change the rear tire or the rear pulley, you have to find a way to apply a force of 10 lbs upward, at the center of the belt. Harley sells a dedicated belt tension gauge for that purpose (part number HD-35381). I've been looking around for another force gauge, which would also work in compression, not in traction like a fish scale. Indeed it appears to be a quite common accessory for adjusting window or gate friction. In the US of A, you can have a look at the following url : http://www.windowease.com/forcegauge.html They sell a 0-35 lbs pocket gauge for only $29 + shipping (usual disclaimer applies...). Precision of the measurement is +/- 10%, so good enough for a Buell application. I don't know yet what's the price and the precision of the force gauge sold by Harley or Buell (made by Kent Moore in Michigan), but I expect that the above product from Windowease should be competitive.   Chuck Nance (Chuck) Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2000 - 11:56 pm:        I'd like to use a smaller front pulley to "gear down" my M2 to facilitate riding in heavy traffic -- people always honk and yell when I spit lanes -- Has anyone done this? What size pulley did you use? Does the belt still clear the swingarm okay?   Charlie Singleton (Xrdude) Posted on Monday, November 27, 2000 - 10:38 pm:        No gauge is required to set the drive belt tension on a Buell! Get the back wheel off the ground and do the following: Put a block under the rear tire, and pull the rear shock bolt out, raise the swingarm up until max tension is applied on the drive belt (the straightest line from the drive sprocket thru swingarm pivot to rear sprocket), support swingarm in this position, spin rear wheel and find point of greatest tension, adjust tension as required, lower swingarm, replace rear shock bolt, take bike off stand, and ride. A dealer 'adjusted' the belt tension on my S1 the factory way and it seemed O.K. until I did the above, then I found out the belt was so tight at max tension point the suspension was for all practical purposes 'locked' solid. This explained the harshness I was experiencing in the rear suspension; after checking it my way and adjusting it just so the wheel had no drag at max tension position the rear suspension magically became plush again.   X1guy00 Posted on Sunday, January 07, 2001 - 07:34 pm:        Not that I don't love my X1, but does anyone else think the belt adjustment method of the bolt in the hole flopping around loose and the axle nut not having a cotter pin seem a little archaic. I've seen and adjusted many different makes and models of bikes and can't believe this is what they came up with, has anyone had any problems with this or has everyone drilled a hole through the axle for some type of safety device.   Jmartz Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 08:49 am:        In 1995 HD changed the spline contact surface on the front pulley from 1/2 to 3/4 in. All chain conversions use sprockets 1/2 wide at the spline. I am looking to convert my Buell to chain in order to achieve a more slender look in the rear and was wondering if any badwebbers currently using chains have had any problems with this. I would love to lighten the secondary belt system but a lighter rear pulley is over $400 and a lighter nylon front one is $315. I beleive a chain conversion can be done with about $250, the aggravation of fabricating a rub shoe not withstanding. Jose   Hoser Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 03:19 pm:        Jose: Have no fear of this configuration , the material used to manufacture the stock drive pulley's is questionable (in my opinion), and believe me I have seen many failures !!. The material used to manufacture a drive sprocket is far superior , as long as you quality american parts. Use care when installing , follow procedure , torque specs etc. Our shop drag bike uses this type of sprocket ...... #1 plate holder CMDRA supergas for 2001. Hoser   Jmartz Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 09:55 am:        Hoser: Thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can get in Daytona. Jose PS The CV 44 is working better. The problen (not corrected fully yet) is that during rpm ranges (2000-3000) when the slow jet is not operating and the slide is at rest there is not enough fuel. Lifting the needle a bit corrected the problen 80%. Stll need to lift more as slow city running is still quite bucky.   Seance Posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 06:21 pm:        RE: that black pulley cover, which is usually made of metal on Sportsters. What are people doing to make that look better? I have seen the ones that are open, but think that is a saftey issue.I would like the lines of the engine to flow better. Has anyone tried fitting one from a Sportster somehow?   Blake Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 06:12 pm:        Great info from BuellinBenny... Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 02:56 am -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some figures from UKBEG site on ratio's: The different combinations are: A = 29 TOOTH B = 55 TOOTH This is the "normal" UK spec and gives an overall gear ratio of 3.034. Top gear - 24.02 mph/l000 rpm giving a theoretical top speed of 163 mph at 6800 rpm. Fourth gear - 20.36 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 138 mph. Third gear - 16.80 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 114 mph. Second gear - 12.19 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 83 mph. First gear - 8.93 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 61 mph. At 80 mph in top gear the engine is running at 3300 rpm. A = 27 TOOTH B = 61 TOOTH This is the "full" US spec and gives an overall gear ratio of 3.615. Top gear - 20.16 mph/l000 rpm giving a theoretical top speed of 137 mph at 6800 rpm. Fourth gear - 17.08 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 116 mph. Third gear - 14.10 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 96 mph. Second gear - 10.23 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 70 mph. First gear - 7.49 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 51 mph. At 80 mph in top gear the engine is running at 4000 rpm. A = 27 TOOTH B = 55 TOOTH This is the US engine sprocket with the UK rear wheel sprocket to give an overall gear ratio of 3.259. Top gear - 22.36 mph/l000 rpm giving a theoretical top speed of 152 mph at 6800 rpm. Fourth gear - 18.95 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 129 mph. Third gear - 15.64 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 106 mph. Second gear - 11.35 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 77 mph. First gear - 8.31 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 57 mph. At 80 mph in top gear the engine is running at 3600 rpm. A = 29 TOOTH B = 61 TOOTH This is the UK engine sprocket with the US rear wheel sprocket to give an overall gear ratio of 3.366. Top gear - 21.66 mph/l000 rpm giving a theoretical top speed of 147 mph at 6800 rpm. Fourth gear - 18.36 mph/1000 rpm - maximum speed 125 mph. Third gear - 15.15 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 103 mph. Second gear - 11.00 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 75 mph. First gear - 8.05 mph/l000 rpm - maximum speed 55 mph. At 80 mph in top gear the engine is running at 3700 rpm. Buellin' U.K.   Slodog Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 07:02 pm:        Anyone know how to figure out gear ratio with a chain drive and sprockets, instead of a belt and pulleys. i would like to achieve a gear between S1 and 1200, a little more towards the 1200. Any help would be appreciated.   Xlwp Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 01:52 am:        Slodog, Does this help? I can't get it to look right in the post, but, there's four columns of numbers with titles at the top. PB *AVAILABLE SECONDARY GEAR RATIOS SPORTSTER SECONDARY CHAIN DRIVE 1.6 Pri. (Buell) TRANS WHEEL YIELDS AUTO TEETH TEETH RATIO EQUIV 19 53 2.789 4.46 19 52 2.737 4.38 19 51 2.684 4.29 20 53 2.650 4.24 19 50 2.632 4.21 20 52 2.600 4.16 19 49 2.579 4.13 20 51 2.550 4.08 19 48 2.526 4.04 21 53 2.524 4.04 20 50 2.500 4.00 21 52 2.476 3.96 19 47 2.474 3.96 20 49 2.450 3.92 21 51 2.429 3.89 19 46 2.421 3.87 22 53 2.409 3.85 20 48 2.400 3.84 21 50 2.381 3.81 22 52 2.364 3.78 20 47 2.350 3.76 21 49 2.333 3.73 22 51 2.318 3.71 23 53 2.304 3.69 20 46 2.300 3.68 21 48 2.286 3.66 22 50 2.273 3.64 23 52 2.261 3.62 27 61 2.259 3.61 Stock '98 Buell S1W Stock USA Belt Drive 21 47 2.238 3.58 22 49 2.227 3.56 23 51 2.217 3.55 24 53 2.208 3.53 21 46 2.190 3.50 22 48 2.182 3.49 23 50 2.174 3.48 24 52 2.167 3.47 22 47 2.136 3.42 23 49 2.130 3.41 24 51 2.125 3.40 23 48 2.087 3.34 24 50 2.083 3.33 23 47 2.043 3.27 24 49 2.042 3.27 23 46 2.000 3.20 24 48 2.000 3.20 24 47 1.958 3.13 24 46 1.917 3.07   Peter Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 02:05 am:        TRANS TEETH WHEEL TEETH YIELDS RATIO AUTO EQUIV 19 53 2.789 4.46 19 52 2.737 4.38 19 51 2.684 4.29 20 53 2.650 4.24 19 50 2.632 4.21 20 52 2.600 4.16 19 49 2.579 4.13 20 51 2.550 4.08 19 48 2.526 4.04 21 53 2.524 4.04 20 50 2.500 4.00 21 52 2.476 3.96 19 47 2.474 3.96 20 49 2.450 3.92 21 51 2.429 3.89 19 46 2.421 3.87 22 53 2.409 3.85 20 48 2.400 3.84 21 50 2.381 3.81 22 52 2.364 3.78 20 47 2.350 3.76 21 49 2.333 3.73 22 51 2.318 3.71 23 53 2.304 3.69 20 46 2.300 3.68 21 48 2.286 3.66 22 50 2.273 3.64 23 52 2.261 3.62 27 61 2.259 3.61 21 47 2.238 3.58 22 49 2.227 3.56 23 51 2.217 3.55 24 53 2.208 3.53 21 46 2.190 3.50 22 48 2.182 3.49 23 50 2.174 3.48 24 52 2.167 3.47 22 47 2.136 3.42 23 49 2.130 3.41 24 51 2.125 3.40 23 48 2.087 3.34 24 50 2.083 3.33 23 47 2.043 3.27 24 49 2.042 3.27 23 46 2.000 3.20 24 48 2.000 3.20 24 47 1.958 3.13 24 46 1.917 3.07   Buelliedan Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2001 - 01:22 pm:        So it looks like a 21/48 might be the best combination to get almost the same ratio as stock with the least amount of weight. Does anybody know how many links should be in the chain for this set-up? Dan   Smokin84 Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2001 - 03:13 pm:        I am running a chain on my 97 S1. With 21/46 the chain is 114 links so I would assume 116 should do it. I would buy a 120 link chain and shorten it just to be safe thou.   Buelliedan Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2001 - 04:00 pm:        Smokin, So how is the 21/46 combo? That would be close to a 29/61 combo i would think? Thanks for the advice!! Dan   S2no1 Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2001 - 11:49 pm:        Dan, Do you really want to oil chains on your X1? In El Paso, in the sand. Don't you know that a good oring chain won't last more than.....nevermind. Let me know if you need some help or tools. I'll have Blanca make Bolivian Polo when you come over. Arvel   Smokin84 Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2001 - 01:24 am:        Buelliedan, I like the 21/46, it drops engine speed about 300 rpm compared to the stock gearing. I went with it because I broke the belt and at $165 I didn't want to keep replacing it. With the stock gearing it was like riding a catapult in 1st and 2nd. It has made it a little more rideable without killing the drive.   Leeaw Posted on Friday, April 20, 2001 - 06:35 am:        Super Sunday is coming this weekend, and now I found a new noise. Riding last night with earplugs in and exhaust noise blazing, I could hear when slowing down to around 15mph, that my bike was making a whirring/howling sound, which sounds like it is coming from the belt drive or the front pulley. It is in rhythm with bike speed and does not matter if the clutch is in or not. The belt seems to have proper tension, but is squeaky when I move it around. The bike is running perfect otherwise, but I want to find out what is going on so I don't get stranded somewhere. It's a 99 M2 with about 8,300 miles. Any ideas? Thanks   Chuck Posted on Saturday, April 21, 2001 - 12:55 am:        Check fluids . . . check primary and clutch adjustment . . . check belt and wheel alignment . . . charge up your cell phone . . . pack an extra credit card . . . and ride the hell out of it   Rippin Posted on Saturday, April 21, 2001 - 01:19 am:        Leeaw: Might not hurt to check right rear wheel bearing/hub. My 99M2 chewed the inner hub with 9500 miles on it. I beleive it had to do with proper belt adjust. Until last year at Homecoming I believe the factory belt adjustment procedure where to tight! Now I adjust it with bike suspended and rear shock bolt pulled so to be sure the belt does not bind anywhere during travel. Buell covered it even though it was out of warranty by 6 mo. but it took going to three dealers to get it accomplished. Thank you Wilwerts HD in Galena(Rob) Great crew they are! Anywho thats my two cents worth. Ryan   Leeaw Posted on Saturday, April 21, 2001 - 12:39 pm:        Chuck & Rippin, Both sounds plausable. I did adjust the primary right before the winter, and it seemed fine then. The rear tire was also replaced by the dealer then as I took a nail. I also warped the front rotor two days later. The belt, while under no load seems to almost reach the bottom of the swingarm. When loaded, it still has a little play. I did not see any visible signs of wear on the side of the belt or on the pulley cover. The dealer was thinking it was maybe a rear wheel alignment problem, and told me to stop off. Someone suggested noise from the trans bearing, but wouldn't I be feeling some shifting problems. It has been running great. I am also getting the 2001 shock, pending Buell approval. This year round better be a bit easier on the wallet though. My old Virago asked for not even a single battery charge in the 3 years I owned it, but it ain't Buell.   Kent Posted on Monday, May 07, 2001 - 02:28 pm:        Leeaw, If the noise is coming from the area of the front pulley, and the primary oil has not ever been run dangerously low, I believe that you will find that the large nut that holds the front pulley on has loosened up. If this is the case, the pulley and the nut will have to be replaced. By the time you can hear the noise, the splines inside the pulley will be damaged, and the nut is a one time use item. The job is best left to the dealer, as it will require a tool to hold the pulley and a special torque procedure. I hope it is something else for your sake. Good Luck, Kent   Leeaw Posted on Monday, May 07, 2001 - 03:33 pm:        Kent, You are right on the money. The dealer replaced the front pulley and nut. The shaft splines were fine, but the pulley was messed up. I am happy again.   Jmartz Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 04:15 pm:        News! For those of you considering options to the 2dary drive of our beloved Buells there are practically none. Joker Machine has discontinued their 3 model line up of CNC machined 61 tooth rears. Tat is no longer offering his "machined" version of the stock unit and Renthal appears to have gone out of business. Bartel still offers chain conversion kits but their rear sprockets are not as aesthetically pleasing as the multiholed polished "superlight" Renthals. In any case the largest front sprocket available is 32 teeth and the diameter that results is still much smaller than than the stock trans pulley causing the chain to eat into the swingarm block. Perhaps not a big deal but an annoyance at least. Supermax makes trans 27 tooth with nylon teeth but weight savings are not certain and for 315 (minus shipping) I'm not willing to gamble. So at present there isn't much that can be done to reduce the weight of the massive 2dary drive where I was hoping to unleash a few horses.   Jmartz Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 04:16 pm:        PS Buell's "sharktooth" polished 61 teeth rear pulley weighs about 2 lbs. more than the stock one.