| Author | Message | ||
     Iamike |
Well got the ol S3 runnin again tonight. It was just the stator that was bad. I went ahead and bought a regulator just in case (they have a 20% restocking fee so I thik I'll keep it). When I first looked at the new stator I thought that it looked just as black as the old one. Then I realized it did have a green tint to it. It wasn't quite as easy as one person said. Luckily I could borrow the clutch tool that I needed. It was a homemade unit that worked real well. I also replaced the detent plate and switched to Mobile 1 while I was at it. | ||
| Bomber |
Mike . . .did you remember to bring a load of cola up from the basement? ;-} | ||
| Iamike |
Bob, I mis-spoke, it was infinite resistance to ground and .4ohms across the leads. I guess when copper is annealed is doesn't carry current too well. Bomber-did I miss something? Many of my comments on how easy work is, is to give encouragement to us backyard mechanics on how easy these bikes are to work on. | ||
| Reepicheep |
What clutch tool did you use? All you should have needed was a locking bar to go between the two primary sprockets... | ||
| 2000m2 |
So I was cruising along when my tach and speedo went away. I pulled over and the bike died. Put a new battery in, got it home, went back out to start it to go to Americade, and no luck. I have been told it is the stator (spelling?). Anybody know where this is located on a 2000 M2 and where I can get new one? Thanks!  | ||
| Hans |
2000M2: You will see a picture of the stator when you look up on this page: 10 Posts back. Your problem doesn`t seem me something to be repaired easily, just by throwing parts in. Even when the stator (=standing part of the alternator and probably located within the flywheel) has been cooked, you should at least try to find an underlying cause: i.c. A shortcut somewhere: For instance in the wires to the voltage regulator. It is also important that the housing of the voltage regulator is grounded well: Good electrical contact with the steel frame. Good luck. PS: Read this one: http://www.misterfixit.com/dedbatt.htm Hans edited by hans on June 13, 2004 | ||
| 2000m2 |
Are there any places online that I can order a stator? What about the voltage regulator? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The harley part is a little pricey, about twice the price of the aftermarket part. Don't know if it is better or not. Voltage regulator and stator are each $75 and up, definately worth spending a little time diagnosing before writing checks. Start with the stator, disconnect the wire from it to the voltage regulator and see what the stator side pin to pin resistance is, and what each pin to ground resistance is. Resistance from each pin to ground should be infinity, if you see less then that the stator is toast. Resistance between the pins is supposed to be (its here somewhere and in your manual, I am thinking 36 ohms or so). edited by reepicheep on June 13, 2004 | ||
| 2000m2 |
Thanks for the info. Electrical problems are a real pain. Do you know what aftermarket companies make the voltage regulator and stator? Unfortunantely I don't have a manual because I bought the bike used and it has so many modifications that the manual probably wouldn't be too useful for specs in most cases. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I just called my local harley aftermarket part (the non Harley dealers that work on harleys) and they could all order one, nobody stocked one... Which is why I ended up with the Harley part. I would get the manual even if a lot of the bike was modded... It still has a lot of great info for stuff that can't really be changed (like the way the stator and voltage regulator work together). Start with the stator resistance check, and post it back, we can get your problem solved easily enough. edited by reepicheep on June 13, 2004 | ||
| 2000m2 |
Great, thanks, I probably won't be able to get to it until this Friday or Thursday evening, but I will keep you posted!  | ||
| Bomber |
Mike -- I was just teasin ya (about all the other stuff you accomplished along with the primary job) . . . .sorry for the lack of emoticons (I forget you can't here the humor in my voice!) ;-} | ||
| Carlos |
Desperately looking for a Race ECM X1. Sold out in the Netherlands. Who can help me out or has any information. | ||
| Josh_ |
Al at American Sport Bike (americansportbike.com) has said he has a limited stash. | ||
| Iamike |
Bomber- No insult received, I was just curious if I missed something. I like to razz guys too (especially Dyna) when they get anal or argumentative about some things. M2- electrical things really aren't hard to work with. You can't see it with the naked eye ( except in my business if you do you may be in real big trouble). You can buy an small digital meter for less than $30 at Radio Shack, Sears, Home Depot, to name a few, that will work just fine for this work. After my battery died I checked the regulator output and it was 0 Vdc. Took apart the stator connector (round, by the oil pump) and checked it there for an resistance to ground on each connector and across the pins. Each way was in spec until I started it and ran up the rpms and got 0vAC. It should be around 20-35. I bought both a stator & regulator just in case. I only replaced the stator and that solved the problem. I was a little worried about the regulator being faulty and burning up the stator but I have had several people tell me that the stator is a common item to go bad on all Harleys. Since I like to run 35w fog lights and I rewired my front turn signals so that they are on all the time I probably get a little too close to the maximum output of the charging circuit. I am looking for a little panel meter that would warn me before I lose the battery again in the future. | ||
| Iamike |
Reep- The manual shows a clutch tool to remove the c-clip that holds the clutch adjustment assembly in. I borrowed a homemade unit that I'm sure was a whole lot cheaper than the Harley one. When I put it all back together I was able to puch the clip back in with a couple of screwdrivers. I need to buy the right tool for that. I don't think that I really needed to depress the clutch but that was what the manual said. | ||
| 2000m2 |
does anyone know the part number of the voltage regulator for an M2? | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
The voltage regulator for 2000/2001 M2 is part number 74567-98Y, and you may be able to get a less expensive aftermarket equivalent. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I see Mike, that makes sense. I got a box of those C clip removers at Harbor Freight. 2000M2.... Did you do the stator test? Three tests, ten minutes, all easy, and will give you an absolute yes / no answer. I am only being a pest because I possibly wasted $200 going down the same road you are about to go down (and I should have known better). | ||
| Bomber |
Mike -- check the Aerostitch folks for a panel meter (er, riderwarehouse.com, I'm thinkin) | ||
| 2000m2 |
Iamike, Reepicheep--I got a voltmeter and a buddy of mine at work recently replaced the voltage reg in his honda, so he is going to help me out. I have also heard that the stator goes bad frequently in Harley's. I wonder what the deal is. I am terribly impatient and with each sunny day that goes by I just want to buy a new stator and reg and get back on the road! This Buell is my first street bike and it's a ton of fun. I look forward to taking road trips every weekend, or just the long way home! I will let you guys know how it turns out! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Great! Let us know. Put the meter on the setting to measure resistance (also called impedance, has an omega symbol for Ohm). Cut the cable ties holding together the connector that goes between the voltage regulator and the stator (wire disappears into the primary). On the side of the connector that goes to the engine primary (the stator side), measure the resistance between the two pins, and the resistance from each pin to a good ground on the bike. Post the results here, and I bet within 15 minutes we will be able to tell you if your stator is bad or not... I posted the correct values in the knowledge vault, I will scare them up and repost them here in this thread. If you have not yet updated your primary chain tensioner to the new part, get one of those to replace when you do the stator. And get the new metal primary gasket as well, it rocks. | ||
| 99x1 |
After my regulator died, I installed a 3 LED voltage monitor from Walmart - ~$5 (Green LED =13-14 volts, Yellow = <13, Red = >15 volts). It is meant to plug into the cigar lighter on autos - I pried it apart, put longer leads on it, put heat shrink around the little circuit board, connected it to the power and ground on the back of the speedo, and then velcro'ed it to the back of the speedo. At night, if the LEDs are too bright, I can reposition it further behind the speedo.  | ||
| Bomber |
NinerNiner what a great idea! thanks! | ||
| Iamike |
Bill. Not to get technical & anal & such but resistance is usually for dc & impedance is for ac. When I did the resistance tests on my stator it fell withing specs but when I ran the engine I had no AC output. When I read the shop manual again it does state that even though it meets those specs there may still be a problem. They were right. I found a nice 1.5" volt gauge at O'Reilly auto parts that I might be able to squeeze into my dash. It came with a water temp gauge that I was tempted to try to get in my oil tank but decided the volt meter was enough. p.s. Where did that boy get those blue eyes? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The blue eyes came from Grandpa (my Dad), and Jack is named after Great Grandpa, who had them even more then Dad. Jack had Great Grandpa's name before we ever saw him, it was quite a thrill to see Great Grandpa's eyes looking back from my son. No AC output makes it a pretty easy call... Stator is toast. Agreed about the resistance versus impedance, I was just trying to cover all the possible bases for anything the meter may have on the label (in case it got mangled in translation). Thanks for clarifying in case anyone was confused. You going with the Harley stator, or aftermarket? | ||
| 2000m2 |
Well, my buddy who knows what is going on wasn't able to make it tonight, so I snooped around trying to figure stuff out and I realized I don't really know what I am doing. I found the regulator, but I have no idea how you would go about using the voltmeter across it. As for the stator...where do I start looking (ie. where is it?) It's always an adventure... Thanks!!  | ||
| Reepicheep |
There is a fat wire coming off the voltage regulator, that goes to a rubber socket connector, hooked together with a couple cable ties. You can follow this back all the way under your starter and into your primary case (from the cylinder side of it). Half way along this wire, tucked down by the oil pump under the cam cover, you will find a rubber bung thingy with a couple cable ties around it. If you cut the cable ties, you will be able to pull the bung thingy apart (it is a socket on one side, two pins on the other). One end of this goes to the voltage regulator, the other end to the stator. You can do the easiest test there at that point with the cable disconnected, on the stator side of the wire, measure the resistance between the two connectors in there, and the resistance between each of the connectors and a good ground (negative terminal of battery is perfect, but most engine bolts are fine as well). We can tell you from those values if your stator is obviously dead or not. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Also, Down by the two wire plug Bill mentions above there is a single wire plug connection also. This is the regulated voltage going back to the battery. This connection can easily be unplugged. don't ask how I know.... When I put my stuff back together, I used 3 tie wraps to secure the plug. One on each wire and another zip tie to hold them together. | ||
| 2000m2 |
Ok, so I tested the lines going into the regulator. While revving the engine it went up to a max of 0.9 on the 200 Vac scale. Where do I go next? I was having trouble testing the voltage coming out of the regulator though. Any ideas? Thanks again! |
