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Mbsween
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hoot,
glad you found the washer,I know what a pain in the arse that can be . Glad to hear you got it fixed. I'll be sure to disconnect the battery and put a magazine cover or something in place to catch little parts.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My intention is to replace the parts, just need to find a kit.
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Davefl
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It should not be a problem to get that kit at your dealer. I picked one up for a friends bike a couple of months ago. If they can't figure it out call Dave or Bubba, I bet they can find it in the books.
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

one of the design criteria for tubers seems to be providing an unsusual number of crooks and nannies for small parts to lurk . .. . when working in a variety of places on my M2 (you guys know which ones without being told)I've developed the habit of placing the biggest ex-speaker magnet I have as close to the area I'm wrenching on as possible . . . . it's save some (read, not all) searching for tiny little bits, and done aswy with some (read, not all) need for picking the bike up, turning it upside down, and shaking the mother til the loose bits fall to the garage floor and roll into the big crack running across the entire garage
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Henrik
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1st rule of wrenching: dropped parts will gravitate towards the area furthest from the surface/hardest to reach : )

Henrik
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Xtopherj
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ladies and gentlemen,
i've been experiencing a very dim headlight (both in the low and high positions) and a faint light showing in the high beam indicator (when the low beam is on, it's bright when the high beam's on). both bulbs i've tried are fine. the battery's good and the system is charging. when i disconnect the wiring pigtail to the headlight, the faint, high beam indicator goes away. i've wiggle-tested everything. and i'm running out of ideas.

thanks, cj
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Bomber
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd replace the headlight bulb next . . . sounds like you've got a short in there somehow . . ..

although, a while back on another bike, I had a similar set of symptoms that wound up being a poor ground in the circuit . . . . I trust you've checked that?
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Skizzo
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey

i guess i'll just break into this conversation, but i have a question and hope someone will know how to fix it. i have a 2000 m2 and i took the rear turn signal/liscence plate mount off and i also detatched the turn signals in order to use some LEDs as my turn signals on my liscence plate. well, this didn't go so well, and now the lights won't turn on at all. so i got fed up and then put my stock turn signals back on and now they don't work either. they will work if i turn the signal on and then turn the ignition on, but then they are solid (no blinky) and they switch off in about ten seconds.

i figured that if i went back to stock setup the lights would go blinky again, but i get no blinky, no light at all. i would like to keep the LEDs as my turn signals in the rear.

okay, here's the question, the LED are 12 volt systems, and forgive my ignorance, but is my bike a 12 volt system? also, is there a secret to putting the stock turn signals back on so they will work like normal again? the LEDs have two wires, so they should work, but there is the voltage question. but the stock lights don't work any more either, so maybe something is messed up? i'm sorry for running on, but i'm lost right now and i just want to make my turn signals go blinky again.

also, in all the lights, the common wire is a dark blue one, is that the ground wire?

thanks for your help!
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Davefl
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Led's do not pull enough current to make the flasher work. You will need to use load equalizer or put some resistors in the system to bring the current up. As for getting the stock ones to work, Have you checked your fuses?
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Skizzo
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes, all of my fuses are fine. the stock turn signals they will come on solid for ten seconds and then they turn off and won't come on again unless i take the key out and turn it back on.

but for that to work i have to have the turn signal switch in one direction. if the switch is in neutral, the signals won't come on at all.
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Treacherousdog
Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 04:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi,
I'm new to BadWeb.. I'll get straight to it.. I have a 2002 Buell Blast. I had dropped my bike and in the process cracked the dashpanel.. Everything on the bike STILL functioned at this point when I turned it on. So I disconnected the speedo and reinstalled it inside the new dash.

But NOW the following has occured.
1. Speedometer doesn't work (tell speed).
2. Odometer does not display.
3. Neutral indicator does not display.
4. Speedometer itself does not light up (backlit)
5. Tail light only lights up when the breaks are being used but is dark otherwise even while the bike is on.

However everything else on the bike works fine, I've tested it around the neighborhood to make sure. Turn signals are wired up correctly etc.

Some noteworthy things that do work:
1. When you use the turn signals the arrow indicators on the speedo show up.
2. When you turn on the high-beam the speedo indicates this as well.
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99x1
Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 07:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

(Don't know the Blast), but on most of the other bikes, there is a common ground wire for everything you mentioned. Turn signals and high beam indicator are on a separate ground connection from the neutral, oil pressure, and speedo. Check the black wires for opens....
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Bomber
Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sounds like one of the connectors is not fully seated . . . . .I'd try that first, then check fuses
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Smkdm2
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2004 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I blew the ignition fuse on my bike last week. I replaced it and all was good. Until today. I was headed to work and the bike seemed like it was loosing power as I was accelerating. I checked the vent tube and it was good. Then later in the day I went two blocks and the fuse blew again. I looked at some of the wires near the fuse block and the starter button and power switch, but did not get any further. Does this sound like a short I should be searching out or is there something else on that circuit that could be going bad?

edited by SmkdM2 on May 04, 2004
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2004 - 01:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Disconnect your speedo sensor. When they go out, sometimes they short. It may have an intermittent failure.

It cost me $500 to find this out by the way.

Donations accepted : )
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Henrik
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2004 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a link to a great source for when you're doing wire work. All kinds of shrink tubing, sleeves, split wire loom etc. etc.

Henrik
(no affiliation, kick-back etc. etc.)
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Bull
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crap.. 3 more days before the annual MoT and the freakin speedo has quit the job! The bike is an M2'99 and I have even tried to switch the speedo to another one I had lying around (which I know works just fine).. didn't work. It lights up just fine and I can read both the trip and odo but it wont show the speed or count up the trip/odo! I checked the Hall sensor for any visual damage and came up with nothing! Any ideas.. any common solutions?? Oh, It has gradually gotten worse: about two weeks ago it didn't work initially but as soon I picked up some speed it started working (it has done this maybe three times in the last two weeks but in between it works just fine). Any ideas on how to proceed with this certainly appreciated!!

BR/ Jonas
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its the speedo sensor allright, when they die there is no external evidence. The new part has a built in filter to protect the replacement sensor, lots of details and part numbers in the knowledge vault (including schematic for a do it yourself filter if you get one of the old parts and need to protect it).

Don't just throw the old style part on there without a filter, or you will toast it within a few months as well.
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Pdxs3t
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 04:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have a problem with my 2001 S3T. Started and ran great 2 days ago.

Turn key to the on position, hear fuel pump kick in, all the lights, horn and blinkers work. Push the start button and nothing.I do hear a click coming from the relay block. Could this be a bad starter relay and if so, can I pick one up at any auto parts store?

Thanks!

Jim
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Darthane
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're hearing a click, then most likely the relay IS working correctly. If you can swap it with another relay from the block just to check it, well then that's a quick way of eliminating that possibliity. If the relay is bad, yes, you can buy one at most auto stores. Just take that one with you. It's a half ISO relay. Check all the fuses, too. It takes no time at all, and falls under that nasty KISS acronym we keep tossing around.

Can you check the battery? It may have enough juice to run the lights, etc, but not enough to crank. Those starters take massive amounts of juice to run, anywhere from 5-30 times what the rest of the electronics on a bike can. Also, check the power feed (and solenoid feed) to the starter if it's easily accessible. That will tell you if power is even hitting the starter or not.

edited by darthane on May 09, 2004
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Pdxs3t
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Darthane,

Thanks for your help!

Swapped the relays, still hear the clicking. Also did another run through on the fuses, all look good.

Pulled the battery and now runing a trickle charge to it. Keeping my fingers crossed that's the problem.
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Road_thing
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim/pdxs3t:

Go to this page:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/55215.html?1081211516

and look down toward the bottom--I've posted some pictures showing how to repair a starter relay. Sounds like that could be your problem. Hope this helps.

r-t
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Josh_
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2004 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd blame and replace the battery first.

Check the voltage on the battery? 12v? turn the lights on. 12v? hit the starter. if it stays over 10v or so *then* start checking other parts.
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Bull
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 02:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Reepicheep,
I'll probably try the new and upgraded sensor.. I bet it's expensive ; )

/Jonas
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The updated speedo sensors are about $70 I believe. Which is expensive, but cheaper then the $150 that many others of us here spent on 3 blown old style sensors before we started filtering them.
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Smadd
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PDX... I'd check the big ground strap and other "pertinent" connections too... could be a bit loose.

Steve
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Bull
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$70 in the States and probably $140 before it reaches the shores of Sweden ;-(

/Jonas
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Bull
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeeez, I just checked the cost (in Sweden) for the new and improved sensor above: 250 USD!!!!!

Does anyone have a tip on a reliable/reputable supplier in the US that may consider shipping overseas??
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Pdxs3t
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Road_thing.

Thanks for the link. Won't work for me though, totally different relay on my S3.

Smadd,

Checked the ground strap and all other connections. All is good there.

Replaced the battery but its still a no go, any other thoughts because I am at a loss!

Thanks to all for your help.

Jim
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Pdxs3t
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2004 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Josh,

Almost forgot you.

Thanks for your input!

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