Author |
Message |
Blake
| Posted on Friday, February 23, 2001 - 01:32 pm: |
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I can happily attest to the effectiveness of the NOJ quiet rider product. I have used the cheapest version through hot and cold. Works great and helps keep your noggin from freezin on cold rides. I use the little insertable ear-speakers that came with an old JVC CD player. They work great; the only drawback is figuring out how to don your helmet without dislodging the speakers; that took me a few minutes of frustration during a couple fuel stops. |
Fastback69
| Posted on Friday, February 23, 2001 - 01:50 pm: |
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You could use some medical grade tape to hold the ear buds in like they do in many racing classes. |
Airborne
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 09:50 pm: |
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Mikej From your figures it looks alright in stock configuration. Radios, radar etc... usually don't count for much amperage. It's the high amperage suit and lights to watch out for. Somewhere in my operators manual I read a warning statement about adding additional electrical items. Causing damage and/or excessive battery drain. My suggestion for a heavier stator is based on having mine blow-up, I mean tiny little pieces all chewed up and scattered though out the engine last year. I've drained and refilled the primary case 5 times and still get tiny pieces of insulator and copper in the fluid. Just a suggestion here to help save money. Beg, borrow or steal a multimeter. Wire your equipment together. Check amperage draw on the bike while running with nothing extra turned on. You'll probably get somewhere around your calculated 8 amps. As you turn on each additional electrical item read the amperage flowing in the system. If you can get all your extra items turned on without exceeding 75% of the total stator output amperage you won't need to worry about getting a heavy duty stator. Your manual said 22 amps output so 75% of 22 amps is 16.5 amps. I wouldn't go past 16.5 Also take the suggestions of the other guys and use circuit protection. Auto parts stores carry automotive circuit breakers that can be wired in line. |
Airborne
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 10:03 pm: |
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Mikej, I was re-reading what you wrote and noticed the mention of a ham or CB radio. Keep this in mind when adding these items. The current draw is going to increase dramatically while transmitting vs just receiving so check the total system amperage draw with the mic keyed to see if it goes over your limit. |
Blake
| Posted on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 12:19 am: |
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But RMS current draw is limiting factor since battery can pick up for intermittent peak loads... right? |
Ccryder
| Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 01:22 am: |
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Well I think that after tonight's ride I finally feel I have enough light to keep things lit up. I installed a Hella E1 reflector with an HID light kit. It is WHITE and it is BRIGHT! When I feel I need to add a little more, I hit the high beam switch and two PIAA 1100X's, 55w each, fire up and try to supplement the very well defined and patterned low beam. At Home Coming Vik made a comment about these 1100X lights, Vik this is 3-4 times what the PIAA's were by themselves. The HID draws less than 3.5 amps, when it's running, and the PIAA's are powered directly to the battery for juice and relayed for switching. So I don't think I am violating any current limiting components. The price of great lighting ain't cheap, but you can really tell the difference! The HID kit came from HID and the PIAA's came from CBT. I just wish I could take pictures to do this justice. Maybe I'll grab Brian's stock S3 and we will do a "Lighting Shoot-out". Now to find a secluded back road free of the local Gendarmes (otherwise they might think we were trying to spotlight Bambi). I just know my Wife will think this has to be my craziest need yet! Oh well more to follow. If you can't wait give me a shout. Neil S. |
Fpostow97s3
| Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 11:03 am: |
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Finally got my header back and re-assembled the exhaust system after doing the oil lines (braided). Extended my wiring harness for the ignition and moved the key up to the dash. Got everything re-assembled with new oil (mobil 1) and I go to warm her up and I hear.......click. The battery tender has been hooked up and shows green. What am I missing here? What should I check first? Thanks in advance. |
Sparky
| Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 04:52 pm: |
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Fpostow97s3, Not considering wiring errors from your rewire job, first make sure all the battery and starter motor connections are tight. There is a small gauge wire with a quick disconnect plug that plugs into the starter solenoid. Make sure this is fully seated. Does the headlight & horn work OK? What happens to the headlight when you press the starter button? Does it go out or stay bright? If it dims or goes out this might indicate a faulty battery or shorted starter. If it stays bright there could be a loose connection to the starter or a dead spot in the commutator. Hope this helps, Sparky |
Fpostow97s3
| Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 09:12 pm: |
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Sparky: good heads up. Plugged her back in and cranked her up. To make sure we are talking about the same thing here's a pic of what unplugged. CCryder: those PIAA lights are bright. I can only imagine the light you are putting out. I've got 2 Piaa 1500's mounted in place of my headlight. Improved but not light of the sun that you've got. FrankO. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 09:49 pm: |
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Frank: Post some picts of those 1500's. I'll try and get some street side pictures this weekend. It is a lot of light! later Neil |
Fpostow97s3
| Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 08:52 am: |
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Here you go Neil. These pics are from last year as the snow is yet to melt.
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Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 08:54 pm: |
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That is an awesome look! How is the light output and pattern? My HID system looks normal until the arc is struck and it starts off lightning blue and grows to sun white in about 10 sec. Then there is no question that this dude ain't stock. Neil |
Fpostow97s3
| Posted on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 10:49 am: |
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They come stock with a 12V-H3 55 Watt=85 Watt XTRA bulb which I quickly upgraded to the 55/60w = 100/110w Platinum Series with Super White and XTRA Technology, whatever the hell that is. The beam pattern is shown below. The light is an improvement over the stock lamp and with the two mounted atop one another I can aim the beam to focus at an acceptable point down the road. I picked these because they fit the stock opening and bolted/plugged right in. I use the bottom as a driving light and the top as high beam. That way the flash to pass still works. /image{PIAA1500} |
Ccryder
| Posted on Friday, March 16, 2001 - 07:14 pm: |
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Ooh Nooo, what happened to the image?? You need a "\" instead of the "/" you used. Repost I am interested. Thx Neil |
Fpostow97s3
| Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 04:16 pm: |
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Sorry bout the goof there. I pulled this image off the PIAA web site. I'm using the clear driving lights and I also incorrectly stated my upgrade bulb, ok let's see if I can get this right. I upgraded to the 85w = 130w Platinum Series with Super White and XTRA Technology. They put out some good light.
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Roblasonja
| Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 09:25 pm: |
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Has anyone here replaced their gauges with a digital unit from Dakota Digital or Jammer? I'm thinking about trying this but would appreciate the voice of experience from you brave (and fairly wealthy) souls out there who wanted something different. Thanks, Rob |
Loki
| Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 10:54 pm: |
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Rob, I have looked, thinking hard about it.... Sure would be different in every sense loki |
Jmartz
| Posted on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 07:52 am: |
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Rob: To use a Dakota digital speedo I would suspect one needs a later model bike with the electronic sensor. At last check they do not offer an add on for Sportsters. The do for BT's. I was interested in a combined gauge that also incorporated OT and OP. My plan has always been to install a camera in the rear and display the image under the fly screen like that MH Duc that never was. Maybe then I'll finally be able to see backwards w/o tucking my arms in and rid myself of the ugliness of mirrors that are mostly useless. Jose |
Rickie
| Posted on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 01:05 pm: |
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Dakota Digital has signal generators (cable driven or inductive) for all applications with interface units to correct any signal. |
S2carl
| Posted on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 06:13 pm: |
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Hi All, Anyone have a good alternatve to the HD battery, that fits w/o hacking the bike. I see that the S1 owners might need to do a little "Massaging" of the tray. I'd like to avoid that if I can. I know that the S2 batteries are a different in post configuration. Anyone using an aftermaket battery in a S2 successfully????? Thanks Carl |
Travis
| Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2001 - 09:38 am: |
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I forget who was looking for an alternat method to mount turnsignals (rear). But here are some links to what i did. Caution: the pics are about 300k each, jpg. I did not compress them much, just so you could see them better. And they will open in a new window. Http://www.dnalive.com/buellS3/signal.jpg - Lookin up at the signals behind the rear grills Http://www.dnalive.com/buellS3/tail.jpg - tail section from rear Http://www.dnalive.com/buellS3/bikes.jpg - two of the bikes the the garage, wish the other was mine too Http://www.dnalive.com/buellS3/pipeside.jpg - My shiny pipes I hop this helps whoever was lookin for it. If you nee more info, send me mail travis@dnalive.com Thanks trv |
Roblasonja
| Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2001 - 05:55 pm: |
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OK You rat bastards...Since no one offered any REAL help, (except maybe Loki, Jmartz & Ricki, but VERY LIMITED HELP) I'm going to do it myself. I've ordered a HLY-5000X digital speedo/tach from Dakota Digital (actually went through Wally's) and I'm going to figure out how to mount it on my S1W. If anyone's interested, I'll post photos later and do a short installation report. Of course, as soon as I get it working, I'll be selling the old dash assembly.... Rob |
Nightrider
| Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2001 - 07:35 pm: |
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Fpostow97s3; i have a 99 x/1 and took the rear fender off,then it would not start[lights but no turn over or click].the dealer said to try a starter relay but did not have one in stock.i pulled the small diode out and it was rusty.cleaned it and it started. the diode is under the relays in the fuse block.hope this helps. |
Airborne
| Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2001 - 10:01 pm: |
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Nightrider, and others that have removed the rear fender and exposed the fuse box. Even before I removed my rear fender I would find water inside the glove box next to the fuse box. I used a piece of water proof cloth cut from a old book bag and some of those pony tail rubber bands of my daughters and covered the fuse box to protect from road grunge and water splash. It's cheap, simple and worth the time. Quote of the day "If dogs chase you down the road you aren't riding fast enough" |
Fastback69
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 03:19 pm: |
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Who here uses radios of some kind on their bikes? My dad and I are thinking about getting a pair of radios (FRS probably) but I want to get good headsets with handlebar PTT buttons. Any suggestions? |
Court
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 03:34 pm: |
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I use LOTS of radios ranging from FRS to a Motorola MatrTrac 99Ch/100w with SecureNet digital encryption...hehehehe. The "real world" system I am installing for this year consists of: Radio: - 4w UHF Motorola DPS "Distance" Wiring Harness: www.cellset.com, drop a note to Jon. They do jets, they can handle a bike. Headset: Everything sucks, period. Go with the J&M HS-ECD271-FF (www.jmcorp.com or 800-358-0881) I'm getting ready to do some serious evaluation of some differnet setups, mostly out of frustration. More $$$ does not mean better in this area.....well, except for going to a VISAR or HT-600. Also. . . . FIRST RULE OF COURT. . . do NOT slap the system on and head out down the road. Learn about the "new variable" you have introduced to compete for your attention while riding. Laugh if you will....I am very serious. Let me know if you have questions. Court |
Court
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 03:37 pm: |
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I use LOTS of radios ranging from FRS to a Motorola MatrTrac 99Ch/100w with SecureNet digital encryption...hehehehe. The "real world" system I am installing for this year consists of: Radio: - 4w UHF Motorola DPS "Distance" yes, I know that "technically" this is not an FRS, but a business (requiring a license) radio....so sue me Wiring Harness: www.cellset.com, drop a note to Jon. They do jets, they can handle a bike. Headset: Everything sucks, period. Go with the J&M HS-ECD271-FF (www.jmcorp.com or 800-358-0881) I'm getting ready to do some serious evaluation of some differnet setups, mostly out of frustration. More $$$ does not mean better in this area.....well, except for going to a VISAR or HT-600. Also. . . . FIRST RULE OF COURT. . . do NOT slap the system on and head out down the road. Learn about the "new variable" you have introduced to compete for your attention while riding. Laugh if you will....I am very serious. Let me know if you have questions. Court |
Fastback69
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 03:58 pm: |
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I can walk and chew bubblegum at the same time, but I have trouble talking on a cell while driving. I know what you mean. Thanks Court. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 04:58 pm: |
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Court, Interesting topic, a friend and I talked about it at lunch today! Talked about how much current stuff sucks. Entertained the thought of new "Bluetooth" enabled products for bikers. Cell phones, driver to passenger links, radio/CD, etc. I wonder if anyone is working on it? Sure would be nice to get rid of all the wires and interconnections. Bluetooth to radio for bike to bike would be neat. Sorry for the terse note, gotta catch the shuttle van to my car. BluzM2 |
Tripper
| Posted on Thursday, March 22, 2001 - 10:31 pm: |
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GPS navigators as installed factory option are near. Did anyone see the BMW tent at Daytona? |