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Ryels
| Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 10:41 am: |
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Tail light went out on the way home the other day, took everything apart put it back together worked fine for 3 weeks. Took the seat off the other day to get to the tool pack, put seat back on tail light won't work. Took it all apart again, put it back together and now the only the back brake turns the light on, front brake does nothing, riding light is on. It seems like the whole tail light assembly is very touchy, I can push on the black rubber piece where the connectors are at and the light will go on and off...do i need a new rear light assembly? Not sure why I can't get the front brake light to work, any suggestions...where is the switch for the front brake? (under the seat or in front?) Next, nailed a brick size rock on a back road turn I was following the vehicle in front of me too closely (my fault) which then shot out to my left..i can see the mark on the tire, I was only going about 30mph and I bent the rim, real unstable at slow speeds. Can I still get stock rim replacement for this bike? It's an 07. Can't believe hitting a rock can bend the rim, guess it doesn't take much, I'm coming from riding dirtbikes so I guess I have alot to learn. |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 10:58 am: |
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You could probably bend the tabs that make contact with the bulb to fix the problem. If its not the contacts for the bulb it may be a broken connection or wire. If you are good with a multimeter you could read the resistance of the taillight wiring to see which wire is causing the problem. Also you might want to try cleaning the contacts with some fine grit sand paper, it might be corroded. As long as the rim came stock on a bike it is still available. Or you can find a different color rim on ebay and get them powder coated to the color of your choice. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 11:55 am: |
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I haven't looked at the schematic, but I suspect you are chasing two different problems. The "back brake but not front brake" is probably related to a switch, the intermittent rear is probably dirty contacts on the bulb socket, or a chafed wire somewhere. For the brick, that stinks. A new rim will be expensive. I guess when the suspension travel is used up (a lot of force) and the tire flex is used up (even more force) then "something's gotta give". That would be a heck of a whack at that point. If you find a Uly wheel, I think they are beefier. Heavier and slower, but stronger. And though there are lots of people that probably say it can't and shouldn't be done (perhaps with good reason), I bet there are people that could straighten it, depending on how its bent. You should see the front wheel on my KDX. It has not just a dent, but a crack. I would replace it with the other KDX wheel in the garage wall that my buddy gave me, but that one is egg shaped, and nearly an inch out of alignment. I'm glad I'm not a bike wheel! |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 02:00 pm: |
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If you find a Uly wheel, I think they are beefier. Heavier and slower, but stronger. The wheel you are referring too is rear wheel not front. It has 3 bearings instead of the normal 2. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 04:47 pm: |
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True, for 2010, but I think the magnesium Uly wheels (even with the old 2 bearing setup) are beefier wheels than what is on the other Buells. That was one of the differences on the XB12XT versus the XB12X. The wheels were lighter for better performance, but not as strong. Might be easy to find someone who wants to swap... |
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