| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
This seems like the right place to put this, sorry not going to be pictures because part of having an alarm is not letting the thieves know how to defeat it. Alarm purchased directly from the manufacturer at: http://www.internatrix.com/ Install is fairly simple, the alarm needs a power, two grounds, place for the antenna, place for the siren, place for the proximity sensor, connection to turn signals (optional), and a connection to something that gets power when the key is on. The operating instructions are a little foggy, so I'll send my comments back them to see if they will update the manual. Support has so far been extremely quick to respond. The included siren seems to be pretty loud, even when hidden behind some of the body panels. Connecting to the turn signals didn't make them do anything strange during riding. The shock sensor works really well on the back half of the bike, but only so-so on shocks to the front half. Might have something to do with the surface I have it attached to but it should definitely let you know if someone hits your cycle. If the front wheel hits either side of the steering lock, it will trigger the shock sensor, and bumps to the rear tire will also trigger it. That seems like it will be good enough for the usual impacts that a cycle will get in the parking lot. Whacking the mirrors also easily triggered the alarm. The proximity sensor is a little "finicky", I didn't get the resolution that I wanted until I turned it almost all the way to maximum. It now gives really good protection on the back of the cycle (protecting bags when they are attached), OK coverage to the front, and decent coverage to the sides. I did not connect the starter bypass,any thief worth their name would know it is easy to push start a cycle, so I just coiled up the wires and tied them out of the way. Now here is where the issues between life and the manual start. The buttons on the remote are all multi function. In order to make them work for the basic functions of setting and disarming the alarm you need to push them very briefly. If you push and hold for more than about a half second, they will start to go to their second functions. Had to find this out the hard way, simply press and release quickly. It seems that I was able to set my alarm different from the default. The default is so that the alarm arms itself about 30 seconds after the ignition is turned off, my stays disarmed which is much more friendly at the gas pump. I need to check with them to see why this is happening and exactly what I did to make it happen this way before I comment on it. I do not have info on the range of the connection to the remote. Overall it seems to be a decent alarm system that does the important things of trying to keep the rejects off your ride, and hopefully let you know when someone hits your cycle. | ||
| Greg_e |
OK, update is that the normal mode of operation is to just give you three reminder beeps, and then do the same on the remote to let you know the alarm is not armed. Handy at the gas pump because you won't need to worry about setting off the alarm while you are pumping gas. Here's a short video of the basic alarm sounding. Three beeps when ignition is off as reminder. Then I set the alarm and tripped it with the proximity sensor. Then I hit the panic/vehicle finder button to give you the additional sounds that it can produce. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKrlGY98zVo The video is very fresh so let it cook for a little while before viewing. | ||
| Froggy |
Looks good Greg! Is there any wire splicing or is it all plug and play? I got a rule on my 1125's to not modify the stock main harness in any way. | ||
| Greg_e |
I had to make a bullet connector Y cable for each turn signal so that there was no chopping! I did have to use one of those piercing T things on the hot with ignition wire which I connected to the tail light since everything is back there in the same spot. I did not connect the immobilizer because the manufacturer suggests connecting it to the starter motor relay, and push starting the bike is far too simple. In the future I may connect it to the handlebar run switch so that it really disables the machine. This might require butchering the harness and as such wouldn't get done. I also have rules about butchering the wires which is why I made the bullet connector Y cable. If I connect the immobilizer, then I'll make something to plug into the alarm harness to bypass it if there is a problem so I'm not left stranded. Something small that I can keep with me for emergencies. Also I did need to make a mount out of sheet metal for the proximity sensor, it was either this or stick it to the battery and deal with it each time I had to change or pull the battery. Scrap sheet metal and some double sided 3M auto grade tape was the better answer. (Message edited by Greg_E on April 24, 2010) | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
After looking at a lot of alarms like scorpio, gorilla, and others, I decided I liked the options and ease of this one. Also, its in several parts so it will fit in the XB better. I ordered it today, so I when I get it I'll try to get some info on how it works and range too. | ||
| Greg_e |
I'm getting about 200 feet including inside a concrete and steel building which I consider very good under the circumstances. | ||
| Greg_e |
It's confirmed... The vibrations have moved the proximity sensor adjustment pot to a point where it is way too sensitive, need to make an adjustment and maybe put a drop of rubber cement down in there to hold it in place. The remote also does work in my office. | ||
| Triggerultra |
Thanks so much for all the information. Did you ever happen to install your starter disable onto an ignition/run wire? Any idea why Internatrix doesn't reoommend this more theft-resistant placement of the disabler? Thanks again! | ||
| Greg_e |
No, I never did anything with the starter disable circuit yet. Not sure I will bother at this point. |
