| Author | Message | ||
     H_Man |
Troop, There are a couple of posts about the higher wattage bulbs on 11/14 & 11/16. 2 of 'em are by me. I switched to the 110/90 bulb sold by Tat and I converted to the different headlamp housing that he recommended (I guess it helps in reflecting the light). The bulb ASB sells is said not to use any greater amperage and I haven't noticed any wire melting nor electrical problems. The bulb really makes a world of difference. I love it. On a different note.... I'm planning to install my tach this w/e. After reading about the problems w/ the grommets, is it advisable/okay for me to split the gromet? I mean, does it have to be an intact, complete circle? Or, can I snip out a very small piece in order for it to fit well and have room for some "give" as it functions? H. | ||
| Troop |
H Man - BluzM2 described it best with compressed guage cushions and distorted grommets. I think the compression gaskets will be fine as they "should" absorb the vibes. The grommets holding the tach/speedo in the cup do distort. I tightened just enough to make bolt/nut flush. Still distorted but not too bad. My flyscreen is TIGHT against the dash so I had to cushion it a bit with some foam. We'll see in about a month how it all goes. I'll see how the 100/80w bulb works. I did see that bulb at ASB but I was/am too cheap to spend $35. for a bulb. I'll prob be sorry after I fry a wiring harness though !! | ||
| Buellboy1 |
I need a new battery for my 97 lighting. Is ther any one out there who can give me some information so I can save a few dollars over the dealers 100 dollar price. | ||
| Loki |
Matty, Lets leave it at this. I now use a lower gear in town. On the other hand: I got used to a certian sound and feel without the tach on the M2. After installing the tach, I watched it and rode by feel yet. Seeing that I was riding with the revs under 3k kinda startled me. With my M2 it just feels better if I keep the revs at or just over 3k in town. The giddy up and go factor is right there. No need for the motor to spool up an extra 500-700 rpm. The bike felt good down there, it just feels better up a little higher revs in high gear at 80? Don't recall right now, will post it tomorrow though | ||
| Loki |
thought of the day: I wonder what my M2 would look like with: the bug-eye light set-up off a 595 speed triple and a custom fly screen? loki | ||
| Reepicheep |
Got the replacement speed sensor in for my '00 cyclone... and for one brief shining moment in my life last evening, I actually owned a motorcycle where I can say absolutely everything is working. A rare and special moment. I'm sure that by now something somewhere has broken / burned out / fogged / bent / stripped, but I had my moment in the sun  Thanks for the install tips and diagnosis everyone... it was annoying trying to get the new cable threaded down the same path the old cable took, but not really difficult. Just a few cuts and about a dozen cable ties. Bill | ||
| Al_Lighton |
My S1W is about 4K RPM in 5th gear at 80. Might be ever so slightly higher, maybe 4050,4100. It's 5k at 100, 4k at 80, 3K at 60, 2k at 40 Al | ||
| Bluzm2 |
H_Man- When we were talking about "splitting" the gasket, we meant around the perimeter, not across it's diameter. the diameter is fine, the "thickness" is the issue. The profile of the gasket is kind of like a fat "C" with the round part of the C flattened out. The flattened side of the "C" sits against the guage case. The upper part of the right side of the "C" is the part that sits right under the guage bezel. The lower part used to fit a lip on the old style guage can. I think Cyclonem2_drew was talking about cutting of part of the lower half of the "C" to reduce the thickness of the gasket and get rid of the lower lip. Doing this would also get rid of the slightly visible notches that used to hide inside of the old style "can". Get all that? It would be so much simpler with a picture! I think Drew was going to give it a try as he had a spare gasket. I think I'll let him report back before I break out the utility knife. BluzM2 | ||
| Drandall |
Loki, I've been thinking about that for awhile now. I checked at the bike show, and the speed-triple's light-holder mounts the same way the S3 fairing does, so our Buells already have the holes needed. I don't think it would be that difficult a job. David '00 X1 | ||
| Troop |
Like everyone else who installed the 01 M2 tach kit on the 00 M2,the guages are mounted high. Here is why : After looking closely at a 01 M2 today I noticed that the flyscreen/headlamp mounting bracket are completely different. The 01 headlight is completely above the fork brace while the 00 headlight is almost flush with it. Also,the bracket on the 01 is angled upward while the 00 bracket is angled downward.To install an 01 bracket you'd need to remove forks/headlamp/etc so ALOT of work. Also if yours is like mine,the headlamp contacts the flyscreen when when adjusted properly. I bought some 3/8" black foam weather sealing tape and ran it along the top of the dash plate. It blends in very nicely and is virtually un-noticeable. But I still like the set-up especially if you get the chrome speedo/tach/guage bezels that Buell sells. This adds a custom look and for $30. it adds alot to the appearance. FYI | ||
| H_Man |
Bluzm2, Thanks for the clarification. It does make sense. I'll do my installation this Sunday. I'll let you all know how it went. Troop, I'll keep my fingers crossed that there won't be any wire trouble. Let me know what you think of the bulb you have. When the time comes for a replacement, I may not mind the 10 watt difference. Though, I will say that the blue-ish hue cast from the bulb I bought is one of the reasons I went for it. Absent a modulator or adding other lights, I think it makes the bike more noticeable. You're a great bunch. I hope I get to meet you all at this year's Homecoming. H-man | ||
| Loki |
Drandall, It sure would look different wouldn't it. The fly screen would be the fun part. Keep it the width that it is now. Which would put it at about the halfway point of the two lights. then let it dip in between them, following the bezels Thank god the tax man is giving me money back this year. I am gonna play..... loki | ||
| Steveh |
Troop how is your 100/80w lamp doing? any problems? i just bought one and hope i didnt go wattage crazy!!! | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Hey Troop - You beat me to the post on the new bracket for the M2! I looked at the '00 and '01 models side by side for a while yesterdaym, and made the same discovery, FOR THOSE HAVING TROUBLES WITH THE TACH AND SPEEDO CUSHIONS on the '01 dash swap - I tried out my plan to cut the cushions along the perimeter, and it worked great. The notches (they were hardly noticable, but I saw them anyway) are now gone...and the whole assembly is unstressed. The appearance is perfect...there really is no reason to go out and buy new cushions if you already have the older part (for the older cups). It's really easy...I used a scissor. It took all of 15 mins (BluzM2, it will take you 7 1/2!) | ||
| Troop |
Steve - About all I did was fire up the bike and check out the headlight operation. I won't be riding it here in Wisconsin for a little while yet. I can say that it didn't fry out on start-up though. Just smell for any hot operation , especially on hi beam. If it does start to overheat I would imagine it would do it right off the bat. Let me know ok ? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Drew, Thanks for the "speed" compliment! If I'm gonna do it in 7.5, I'm gonna have to break out the air tools! Also thanks for being the guinea pig. As soon as it warms up enough again, I'll trim mine down (man, I'm getting sick of winter and snow and ice and, and, and, aww you know what I mean). Should have done it in the first place. BluzM2 | ||
| Loki |
Now all that wintery stuff has its bonuses also. You get down time to accopmplish cool stuff. Relive the past riding season, then you get to start planning the next one that is coming. I always relished the off season to a degree. It gave me something to look forard too. Way down here one has to take the ride out of commission during perfectly good riding weather to get anything done. loki | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Good point Loki, I'm not sure which is worse. At least down there when you're done with the "cool" stuff you can go riding. We just get to sit and sulk..... BluzM2 | ||
| H_Man |
Hmmm.... After all that typing last night, I don't see my post. Oh well. I got my tach done yesterday. Like everyone's said, it wasn't hard at all. Though I have a couple of questions and a pointer. My "neutral" indicator light has failed. Don't know if it's a bad bulb or something I did. I placed the 2 "extra" X-1 wires in the slots they would go if it were an X-1 (Y-4 and Bk/P-8 -- I think that's where I put them. I'm at work and don't have my documentation w/ me). Could that be the problem? Also, when the key is turned to "parking lights", the speedo light goes on but not the light for the tach. Any ideas about this? The tach light does go on when the engine is started. Lastly, to all who go this route for adding a tach to your M2, aside from not needing the tach/speedo cover, DO NOT order the washers noted on the 1/8/01 post. They're too small for the opening on the '01 dash panel. The washer go w/ the tach/speedo cover. Later. H-man | ||
| Troop |
H-Man - I observed your situation with the tach light also. I think though that if you look closely,the tach light does come on in the "parked" position,just not as bright. I just taped/wired up the two spares as I knew I wouldn't be using them. Not sure if connecting them caused the problem or not. Good Luck | ||
| Steveh |
Troop i have my lamp 100/80w on order i will give you a heads up when i recieve/install and run the bike, i live in so cal and ride everyday to work. so i should be able to tell you how it works for me soon. thanks for all your help | ||
| H_Man |
I hear what you're sayin' Troop. I wish that was the case w/ me. I ventured back in the garage and had all the lights off while the key was in the "park" position. No light at all in the tach. Oh well, if I discover the explanation, I'll share it w/ you all. Strange enough, the "neutral" position light is back. Guess something may have just been pinched. All that Buell vibration while idling brought the bike back to its senses. | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
H Man - My tach light also does not come on when the ignition is on "park," and it does come on when switched to "park." Regarding the wires, you may want to unhook them, and tape them off as Troop said. Drew '00 M2 | ||
| H_Man |
Thanks Drew. There is some comfort in knowing that I'm not alone in what I'm seeing. I'll undo the 2 "extra" wires as a safety precaution. I was thinking/hoping that (just maybe) the wiring for the "low fuel" light was in place just not connected. Oh well. H-man | ||
| Troop |
Hey H Man - After further review(and a dark garage !), I have the same situation as you and Drew. My speedo light comes on in both the park/ignition position but my tach light only comes on in the ignition position. Relax - you are not alone. Troop | ||
| Gpurdue |
Any experience out there with Motolights? Their page is motolight.com. I am looking for aux. lights. | ||
| Steveh |
Troop i finally got to try out the 80/100w cheapo simulated hid lamp, i dont know if it's just me,but the lamp seems brighter and is deffinitely white'r, worth the 15.00 dollars a paid. no wire over heating so far! i think you will like it i think if it had a better refector/lens it would make the lamp perform better. | ||
| Troop |
Glad to here that Steve. I still have to wait a month to try it out on the road-Damn snow !! | ||
| Mikej |
Two things: 1. What would be the recommended wire types/guage (gauge,gage?) to run from the battery up to the headlight area. Will need to be flexible for steering, and will need to have enough current capability to run 2 aux. lights, a radar detector, and maybe something else like an electric vest or grips or something. 2. On my M2 there is a plug on the throttle grip control housing that looks like a similar cutout to the one on the clutch side used for the turn signals. Has anyone popped the throttle side plug cap off? Has anyone tried to insert a switch into the then open hole to run aux. lights or something? I want to mount a terminal strip up behind the flyscreen and use that as a "front-end" terminal junction point for powering all things electrical up there that I may add. I'm thinking of just putting in one big pair of wires once, instead of running new wires anytime I want to add something. Electrical stuff is something of a mystery to me, except when it sparks and then it's sometimes fun. I know I don't want to add any starter cable size wiring, but a jumper cable plug connector would be nice to have someplace on the bike. Let's see, two 100w lights, + whatever the detector needs for power, + whatever a vest would need, + whatever else might sometimes be used on a bike while riding. | ||
| Court |
Mike: I have recently done that on the KLR. I made a weatherproof box with a red light to let me know when the "box" itself was powered. Heater gripes, GPS, aux lighting and the works all flow from this central point. I found myself adding so much •••• (technical designb term) and didn't want to clutter the battery (or remove the bodywork each time) with wiring. Go to the auto store and invest in: Great selection of red and blue crimp cpnnections Electroplast GOOD crimping tool Lots of shrink tube Wiring harness "spaghetti" protector. A handful (3) of those pre-made fuse link set ups Scotch 33+ tape An assortment of 50' #12 stranded copper wire An assortment of tie wraps Most important..... A PLAN. Court |
