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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Electrical - Battery, Charg Sys, Lights, Switches, Sensors & Guages » Archive through May 14, 2010 » Pre-check for '06 Uly stator work « Previous Next »

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Zynthaxx
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 07:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi!
I'm preparing to do my first "real" mechanical work on my '06 Uly. What I'm planning to do is a change of a burnt-out stator and voltage regulator.

I haven't opened my primary case yet, so I only have the pictures from the repair manual to go on. What I'm a bit unclear about, is if I'll need to take any special care when dismounting the primary chain/crank/clutch assembly. Instinctively, I can't see any reason for those parts to for example be marked up for chain/sprocket positions, etc, and from what I understand, the clutch assembly comes out as a package, so I shouldn't need the clutch compressing tool, etc. Am I missing anything here? Do any of you guys have any specific tips about this job?

Also, in the repair manual, it says to bin the old torx screws that hold the stator and use new ones with a drop of thread locker. Does the new stator come with the required screws included, or do I have to order them separately?

Thanks!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need a scrap of aluminum to lock the clutch and primary together to loosen the nuts. Just a bar you can cut down to the right size (or you can buy the factory tool). Start with a scrap of about 6-8 inches and you should have plenty to cut to fit, but you want something pretty strong.

No alignment or anything. Clutch / stator / chain go on as a unit, no need to take the clutch pack apart.

I don't believe the stator comes with the torx screws, but last time I did this was on a tuber.

You sure the problem isn't just your '77 connector? Stators die all the time, so I'm not saying you are wrong, but the 77 connector fails a lot as well, and can just be bypassed.
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Zynthaxx
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for your reply, that was very good to hear.

Yes, I'm buying the sprocket locking link tool along with the other stuff, so I'll just add the torx screws to the order too.

I thought about the '77 connector too, and asked the shop that originally would have gotten to do the job if they hadn't taken four months to not get my parts, to look at it while they were searching for the problem, but according to them both the stator and the voltage regulator are fried. However, as you might understand, I don't trust them fully, so I'll take the time to check on and/or bypass the connector when I do my little operation, and if it was just this little thing, then at least I have spare parts for when the stator or voltage regulator fries.

Also I'll do FTBstrds mod and add a single-LED voltage monitor to the bike.

EDIT: I checked on the '77 connector this weekend, and it looked good, so at least I know the problem wasn't that easy.

(Message edited by zynthaxx on November 24, 2009)
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