| Author | Message | ||
     Mustangame2 |
Is there some reason I'm going through front (only) exhaust hangars every 2 weeks? I've got 13k on my 2003 XB9R, and have had to replace the forward muffler hangar clamp twice in the last 2k twice. I replaced it with a standard worm-drive clamp both times, as replacing the factory-style clamp looks very painful (dropping the mount from the engine first?), and I wasn't willing to go through the pain for something so simple. Should I be looking harder at engine mounts or something? Everything looks fine at first glance, but this just doesn't "feel" right to me. Thanks for any input. | ||
| Froggy |
Are you over torquing it? Also check the header, it might be coming loose and ready to break a stud. | ||
| Mustangame2 |
Thanks for the feedback. As a matter of fact, I have snugged up the header bolts a couple of times over the last few months. I was waiting for some colder weather down time, and was going to replace the seals and studs. Maybe I'd better do it sooner rather than later. | ||
| Afinley |
It is becuase the worm clamps just are not rated for that. Racers snap t-bolts, you will have no problem snapping worm clamps. (i have gone through quite a few myself while I am waiting for the OEM parts to come in) | ||
| Coolice |
Use the proper clamps and a torque wrench and torque to spec. The factory clamps are very good. | ||
| Jim2 |
I'm not certain what your clamp and situation is but I have my experience with using hardware store clamps on the front my stock M2 muffler that had a broken mount. I was burning through clamps until I found the reason why. Make sure the thread cuts in the worm clamp are not in line with the direction of vibration. Once I started rotating my clamps so that the vertical movement of the vibrations is concentrated on solid metal and not the threaded part that has less metal I never broke another clamp. Now I've welded a tab but that worked for awhile. | ||
| M1combat |
I like to run the clamp close to torque, then start the bike and let it all settle into place, then tighten to torque, then start the bike and let it all rattle into place and then check the torque again. You'll need to loosen the header/muffler (Torka) clamp a little too so that joint can settle itself as well. Once you get the straps done like I said, then tighten the torka clamp down. Do this soon or you'll also start going through header studs and that's "not fun". |
