| Author | Message | ||
     Bluzm2 |
H_Man Haven't put mine together yet, but I did look at the parts blow up. The can is needed as it holds the lower grommets in place. The shouldered studs are attached to the tach, the shoulders go through the grommets in bottom of the "shell". The shell also seals against the upper gasket when you tighten everything together. My only regret, I should have ordered the M2 tach, not the Lightning version. I'll figure out something cool do do with the extra lights. Brad | ||
| Loki |
Bluz, Here is an idea for one of them. Flashing armed alarm light. loki | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Great idea Loki, one down, one to go! BluzM2 | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
K40 remote/undectable radar detector for the other! (One in my car was hooked up to my parking brake light) | ||
| Troop |
Started placing my dash/tach kit together this PM. The dash plate has built in tach/speedo covers in the tray so the plastic case is not needed. You will need the rubber grommets for the tach bolt though. Can take off an extra $10.85 for the cost of the case which lowers the assembly down to less than $105. Nice | ||
| Jmartz |
Put one of those funky multi LED bulbs in my taillight yesterday. Expensive but sure functions well and adds a abit of safety. The lights roll around when on and flash every 2 seconds during braking. Circuitry is self contained no need for a black box/splicing/installation to do the job. Jose | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Jose, Where do you get them  | ||
| Jmartz |
Got mine at the local japanese-crashed-bike shop. I assume they are common stock most anywhere. Have seen some at JC Whitney for 1/2 of what I paid but when you consider the cost of shipping (UPS minimum at $8.00) it is not worth it unless you are buying something else. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Troop, Did you have any problems with the rubber tach cushion? Mine looks a bit funky. Like it was suppose to go through a mounting hole. Kind of like a grommet. It has some notches on the bottom edge that are noticable when you squish it between the tach bezel and the dash plate. I didn't have time to hit the mens crisis center (my garage) this weekend to start the assembly process. I just messed around with the parts in the house. It looks to me like there may be a different part number for the 01 factory grommet setup vs the 99-00 add on kit. Then again maybe I'm all wet and should wait until I can pull the cover off the scoot and get to work. BTW, the cover is redundant, you just need to order the 2 lower grommets separate. Like you said, saves 10 bucks! BluzM2 | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
BluzM2 and Troop- You are right about the rubber spacers...I mounted up my kit this PM and had to do some serious squishing to get them to work...the notches are barely noticable, though. And, to second Troop, the speedo and tach bottom covers are no longer needed with the '01 dash. Everything else went okay, except for stupid (that'd be me) went and removed all of the screws on the speedo...good move! I should try reading my manual next time! Anyway, after about 1/2 hour screwing in screws upside down, finally got them all seated again. Dumb move #2...put the pink wire into the wrong hole...connector locked...DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO UNSEAT THE CONNECTORS? My manual lists a Snap-On pick tool #...is this needed, or is there a real world substitute available...like an eyeglass screwdriver or something like that? Any help appreciated! Last note, I did put the fly screen back on, and noticed that the dash does sit whole lot higher than the old one...Bluz and Troop, did you notice that as well? Well, it's been fun! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Any of you smug new tach owners want to do a new Buell owner a favor? This is my first twin, and I don't have a feel for what redline sounds like. Anybody want to take their tach up to redline and post the speeds in mph? I could probably look up the specs and calculate it manually, but I would not trust it until somebody verified it anyway. So how's about it? Just first, second, and third. I doubt I will ever be anywhere near redline in fourth or fifth. I am a pretty conservative rider, so if I could just stick a few of small dots on the speedo I probably don't need the tach. Thanks, Bill "hoping this stuff is not somewhere obvious already" Kilgallon... | ||
| Reepicheep |
(dooh! The above is of course for the 00 cyclone) Bill | ||
| Loki |
Tach info: On the vibration isolator/damper, the round rubber thingy. The notches in it should match the protrusions on the dash plate and the tach. This is to keep the darn thing from rotating once it is mounted. On another note: I saw the 01 dash the other day. I do like the way it fits to the fly screen better than the billet one. I think I am gonna buy myself a small bench top style mill one of these days. the things I think of .... loki | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Loki, The rubber things USED to match up to notches...problem is, the new dash has attached cups and NO NOTCHES. There has to be a new part number for the '01 dash that we aren't aware of (yet)! The dash also sits way up high compared with the '00. Any thoughts on how to get wires out of the harness? | ||
| Blackbuellm2 |
M2Drew, Connectors, can you find a name on them ne-where? Panduit, or like? If you can ID the connector GM has several different tools avail at 1/2 cost of Snap-On. | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Thanks BlackbuellM2...I'll have to look at it more closely. The Service Manual says only "Amp Multilock." Actually, I called the dealer and they said you can get these at Sears...I may try them. (If I had only put pink in 7 instead of 8! Doh!) | ||
| Troop |
I did the little "marks" on the speedo before getting a tach. The redline is supposedly 7000 rpm but the rev limiter is supposed to kick in at 6800 rpm. At 7000 rpm here is the speed in gears: 1=53 2=77 3=100 4=122 5=144 FYI | ||
| Bomber |
All I'm in the process of using Loki's small bench mill to round out my dash (00 M2) . . . . . In another week or so, I'll have the Factory Billet dash available to some lucky spark, as I won't need it (not sure what year it's for, but the kit came with a mechanical know to re-set the odo, rather than the e-button . . . . ) the speedo and tach from my '00 fit just fine, though . . . . lemme know if ya need/want it . . . . . . rosberg ps . .. it really isn't Loki's mill, just in case the Trickster comes lookin for it!) | ||
| Loki |
Drew, The connector in question is an AMP style. Try at an auto parts supplier(PepBoys, Western Auto, or the equivelant) or at Radio Shack. What you are looking for is not very big. The parts stores carry a multi tool which will cover most of the normally used connectors. Looks like a big "+" sign in shape. ping me with your email and I will send you something that might work to release the lock without destroying it. loki | ||
| Loki |
Bomber, I getting hairs raising on the back of my neck! This is getting a little scary now aint it? loki BTW: The trickster would only borrow it for an extended amount of time...... | ||
| Bomber |
Loki . . .. I wake up every morning scared, brother . . . . well, at least a little rosberg I inherited the little mill (rotating head knee-mill, approx 12 inched clearance between the table and head with the table fully lowered) and a lathe, approx 24 inches max between the headstock and tailstock, and about 5.5 inches from the ceneter line of the headstock and the bed (otherwise know as, I believe, swing?). as you can tell, I'm a rank novice, although I've been able to get the mill to do useful things for me . . . . . I'll tackle the lathe next, as almost all of it's adjustments seem seriously out whack (like the cross-slide seems to move in all three dimensions, not including time (!). If anyone know of a book or three on restoring old lathes and mills, I'd appreciate it, or a person in northern Illinois that wouldn't mind schooling an ignorant, but eager, student . . . .. . . thanks | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Well, I was able to disconnect the wire from the AMP connector using a garden-variety eyeglass screwdriver...worked like a charm...thanks to P. Buckley for his suggestion! Dash kit is now installed! Everything looks good and, more importantly, works! Somebody had said this was a quick an easy job...not so with the '01 swap!(maybe so with the Billet kit, which was more like the stock dash) Figure 2 1/2 hours to get everything right...including the learning curve! | ||
| Troop |
Got mine together also. Was a little concerned as it didn't appear the tach light was on but it was. Working nice. What's next ? Who knows ?? | ||
| Slodog |
I HAVE A 96 S1 AND WOULD LIKE TO RUN TWO SMALL HEADLIGHTS INSTEAD OF ONE HUGE LIGHT. IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS IT WOULD BE GREAT. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Troop, Cyclonem2drew, Loki (and anyone else interested) I hit the "Mens Crisis Center" tonight (the garage) and attacked the tach install. Piece if cake! Took all of about 1 hour. I spent more time looking for black tie wraps and my allen wrench set than doing the work. No problems with install. I bit chilly (17 degrees out), but kind of nice to be able to do some wrenching again. I'm not real happy with the upper gasket thing. They are REAL tight. With all the shaking these scooters do, I think for guage and lite bulb longevity it might not be a bad idea to get the correct version. The way they are now, there's not much isolation due to the extra rubber compression. The grommets on the bottom are compressed and distorted a bit too much also. Jeez, how about that wad of wires and harness under the tank! I haven't looked, but I hope that's part of the wiring cleanup they did for the 2001 models! I don't remember who posted the "height" comment, but you were definitely right. The "new" dash sticks up almost to the top of the fly screen. Not really sure if I like that, may check into a billet version. Darn hard to beat the current cost though. Tachin Out - BluzM2 | ||
| Loki |
Bluz, The billet sits higher too, just not as much as the 01 stock piece. The billet would also look alot better if it conformed more to the fly screen than it does. Troop, you noticed that the tach light does not come on with the speedo? Tachy types....Just wait till you see the rpms for your normal riding style. It sure changed a couple of my habits. loki | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
BluzM2 - 1 Hour?? Wow, I'm more of a hack than I thought! Good job! I agree about the compressed gaskets...what if you just cut the gasket in half? I might try it, as I have an extra. | ||
| Matty |
Loki, whaddya mean about seeing the RPM's for normal riding? Were they lower or higher than you expected? Also, if you get a chance, lemme know what your tach says you're spinning at 80mph in 5th gear? | ||
| Troop |
I thought the tach light didn't come on but it does,I finished at 3:00pm in a bright garage. Anyone ever try a brighter bulb in the haedlight ? Bought a 100/80w unit and wondering if it may be too hot for the 3 plug prong ? let me know of any +/- experiences. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Drew, I've been spinning wrenches for quit a while, did my first tune up on an 1964 406 Ford Galaxy (3 duce carb setup, pretty cool) when I was 9. Rebuilt first V8 (289) around 14 or so (it even ran afterwards!). I'm in the computer field now so I don't get to fiddle in the garage anywhere near as much as I would like. I thought of cutting the gasket, but unlike you I didn't have a spare if it didn't work. You should be able to change the gasket by removing the fly screen and the two dash panel hold down bolts. No need to undo any of the wiring. Let me know if it works. If I remember correctly, the gaskets are around 8 bucks. I would think the correct ones are about the same. Troop, back in the archives somewhere there was a post regarding higher wattage bulbs. If I remember it burned out fairly fast. Replaced with lower wattage. Back to lurk mode- BluzM2 |
