| Author | Message | ||
     Thumper74 |
Does anyone know or have access to the procedure to diagnose the Stator and voltage regulator? My battery won't charge when the bike is running. I've got a charger on it now... | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
Check out the 77 connector, it must to be clean and no signs of excess heat. Test each stator lead to ground for continuity. A good stator will show no continuity...infinite ohms. If it shows continuity the stator has shorted to ground, which means replace it. If continuity checks out then check resistance between stator leads. Should measure between .2 -.4 ohms. If lower then stator is damaged...again replace. If that checks out then check output AC voltage at the stator leads while bike is running. Should measure 38-52 volts AC at 2000rpm. If that fails again stator or rotor. If passes look at the Voltage Regulator. Also check all ground connections and the VR ground The service manual has a good testing procedure all documented out. Regards. | ||
| Thumper74 |
I got a copy of the manual today… I checked the 77 connector, it’s clean of corrosion and there’s no sign of excess heat. I charged the battery for an hour on the 6amp setting and checked it with my voltmeter. I can’t get a normal reading, it shows something like .11V under DC V. When running, it says the same thing. I decided to check the power to the tail light bulb and don’t get anything on the display of the voltmeter at any of the settings. I tried a digital and analogue voltmeter. Can I safely ground the voltmeter on the negative terminal without hurting anything? I put it on a 2 amp trickle charge for a few hours and left the key on-engine off while I played with the voltmeters. The ignition was on for 20 minutes or so and the bike started right up. I got up this morning and after sitting all night, it started up. I rode to work, about 20 miles into the ride 1-2 miles from work, the Check Engine Light came on. Then, once I got to work, the bike won’t restart. I can’t believe that I had enough juice in the battery to get to work… I think the stator is working when the bike is running (I’ll need to bum another voltmeter to check against mine…), but the battery just isn’t taking a charge… | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
If the stator is Ok, check out the VR. Run the engine at 2000 RPM and see if increase the load as required to obtain around 13.0 VCD. If voltage is lower VR is not functioning properly or connections loose or dirty. Check VR ground connection. Keep us informed on your progress. Good luck!! (Message edited by buellisticx1 on September 01, 2009) | ||
| Thumper74 |
I found out the cause of the charging issue and my knock/clunk from the primary area… I pulled the primary cover off and found a groove worn in the cover from the front sprocket, which the nut had loosened up allowing it to make the knocking noise in my engine. Since it was loose, it mangled the magnets on the stator rotor and chewed up the stator itself. I found a local motorcycle salvage yard with everything in stock and I’ll be ordering the primary gasket, etc. this coming week. Since I’ll be buying a low mileage used unit from the salvage yard, besides visually checking the stator and stator rotor, is there a way to test the stator off the bike? Would the continuity test work if it’s not grounded on the motor? | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
I think there is not way to checking the stator charging off the bike but yes the resistance (resistance pin to pin and resistance pin to ground). Check the knowledge vault, there is plenty information of. Let's see what folks with more experience have to say about it. |
