| Author | Message | ||
     Steve Ellingham (Dart) |
Has anyone cracked an engine casing yet, paricularly at the point where the front mount for the shock is connected to the engine casing? | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
From Mike Jaquet's archives: By Aaron Wilson (Aaron) on Thursday, February 10, 2000 - 04:32 pm: John: James offers either both paper and steel versions of their rocker and base gaskets. Until now, the rocker kits, top end kits, and complete engine kits wereavailable only with the paper versions. To get the steel versions, you had to buy them separately, not in a kit. That's generally a more expensive route. However, beginning next month, you'll be able to buy these kits with the steel stuff in them. The steel rocker gaskets are relatively new, I have'em in one bike but I don't have enough miles on them in enough bikes to declare them a cure. But looking at the failure mode of the paper ones, I've gotta believe the steel will fix the problem. The steel base gaskets have been around for a few years, I've used them (as have many people) with great success. Good luck, AW By Chris on Tuesday, March 7, 2000 - 02:47 pm: Aaron, Do you have a part # for the rocker kit with steel gaskets? Does it come with the umbrella valves and fiber washers for the 4 allen bolts? I couldn't figure this out from the info on their web site. Thanks, Chris By Aaron on Tuesday, March 7, 2000 - 07:59 pm: Chris: Sorry, I don't ... DK doesn't even list'em yet, but my buddy Chuck called Drag Specialities and confirmed the rocker kits will soon be available with the metal gaskets. Give'em a call .. Baseline Motorsports ... 'cept he's closed for Bike Week. Do me a favor, if you use his time to get the info, at least buy'em from him. AW | ||
| Tim Ryan (Timberm2) |
I've got a very simple question. I had to change my battery the other day on my '99 M2, and while doing that I moved a hose. This is the first time I've had a bike with a Harley engine and I don't know anything at all about them. This hose is now disconnected and I have no idea where it supposed to go. The lower end of it is attached to the rear of the engine, maybe the top of the crankcase? Where is the other end supposed to go? It heads up to the top of the engine, above the rear head, but I don't see anything up that way for it to connect to. The hose has no clamp at that end, and no sign there was ever one on it. Thanks, Tim | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
That'd be your tranny vent. It just kind of ends up there to the right of the battery. AW | ||
| mikej (Mikej) |
Tim I'm going to guess a bit here, look at the upper inside rear corner area of your primary cover, just behind and above the starter motor. Actually look on the engine case that the primary cover bolts onto, there should be a flat vertical face above a valley below the battery. Is that where the tube connects or where it was connected to? If so then it's probably the primary/trans breather tube. On my '00 M2 that breather line runs across to the right side of the bike, then up and exits out back under the seat near the license plate, but I understand that on some '99's and earlier ones the breather tube is much shorter. If that's not it, then it might be an oil return line, but then it should have some sort of clamp on both ends or at least marks where a clamp once was. Bare minimum I'd say it's time for you to get a service manual and parts book. It's hard to tell a picture story with words alone. | ||
| Daniel Kaplan (Djkaplan) |
Excessive cam noise. I bought a demo M2 (I was too exited to pull out when I found out). It always made a really bad ticking noise from the cam area. My unreceptive dealer kept telling me it was normal. Nothing another service can't fix. I took it to another dealer. One bent pushrod. One wasted valve guide. Four worn cams. Excessive valve train noise is OK up to a certain point. Don't let a greedy dealer tell you otherwise. I still love my Buell. I wish I had bought one from Earl Small's HD in Marietta, Georgia. That's where my bike is now. Dan | ||
| Danny (Danny) |
This seems the most appropriate place for my question. While doing demo rides at Modesto Buell this weekend, and watching a Blast with SEVEN miles leave the parking lot for a demo, I thought to myself "Too bad it didn't already have at least 50 miles on it." This in turn got me thinking about breaking in ALL the bikes on the floor. So here's my Question. If you were to buy a new Buell, would you prefer a bike with as close to zero miles as possible, or would you be satisfied with a bike with 51 miles on it that the 0-50 mile break-in requirements were guaranteed by the selling dealership to have been adhered to? How about the full 500? I think that's probably taking it too far, but please let me know what you think about the 50-mile proper break-in guarantee. Thanks, Danny 95 S2 Part-part time sales at Modesto Buell | ||
| Jasonl (Jasonl) |
Danny - I've no qualm buying used bikes but I'd imagine most would want a "virgin" to break-in themselves. | ||
| Tim Slayter (Tims) |
Inlet manifold seals. Anyone tried those plastic ones that do away with the Harley rubber seals?? Any problems?? I've just removed some after being in the M2 for about 5K. They don't look that good. Bike was idling rough. The inner O-rings that seal the manifold look fine but the seals that butt up agains the heads don't look well at all. Can't say I like the idea of plastic, why not metal flanges with O-rings?? | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Tim: I tried the plastic replacements and could not get a reliable air tight seal between the manifold and head. I went back to the original metal type. My take on the problems is that the plastic is too soft and deforms as the cap screws are tightened. There was some discussion at one point about an updated seal being researched that would use a plastic inside and metal flange on the outside. I have not heard anything on its actuallity for almost a year now. Hope this helps, Fidel | ||
| '00 M2 (Blake) |
Bobbyg: Leaking rear rocker-box/cyl-head gasket: Replace stock paper with steel gaskets? This is a fairly well understood problem. Steel is not necessarily the best solution. My rear rocker box gasket developed a leak too. Upon inspection it was obvious that the gasket had not been installed carefully/correctly. The thinnest portion of the gasket, whick is near the left rear of the cyl-head/rocker-box faying surface, was mostly (all but a few mil) deformed and pushed inwards. That location is also one of the lowest and hottest areas for the gasket. Being at a low spot, the oil pools and easily leaks through even the smallest gap at that location. After consulting some very respected local experts, I replaced my bad gasket with stock paper (being very careful and after lightly cleaning/redressing the rockerbox faying surface on jeweler's paper). I then ran hard all summer and in some of the worst heat ever... including a journey from Kilgore, TX to Chautauqua, NY and back via Blue Ridge Pkwy and Deal's Gap. I had no more trouble. And now I know how to pull and replace a rocker-box! It sounds super easy/simple, but trust me, get and follow the service manual instructions. I too had heard on the board here that many prefer the steel gaskets, but if placed/installed correctly, the stock paper actually performs better (less likely to leak later in life). Why? Differential thermal expansion creates problems between steel and aluminum. The relatively flexible weak paper easily moves with the aluminum during thermal cycling. Hmmm... Why not aluminum gaskets? Anyone? Ciao, Blake | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Blake: Was it your pushrod side gasket that failed? If not, it's the first time I've heard of the left side failing. I personally believe it's the movement that makes the gasket distort and come out of place, something the steel gasket should resist better. But then again, my evidence is anecdotal, just like yours! See ya, AW | ||
| '00 M2 (Blake) |
Spark plug side. Obvious faulty installation. Also note... very important that both faying surfaces are ultra clean and bone dry prior to install. Not systemic to design, just faulty install IMHO. Ace mechanic who I trust confirmed that steel will leak more often than paper with all else being equal. | ||
| Al Lighton (Al_lighton) |
My experinces are like Blake's. Rear Cylinder, spark plug side, gasket broken at the hole, obviously elongated. Dealer told me they see a lot like that, and that it is due to sloppy install procedures at the factory (their anecdote). I was gonna replace with James/Cometic metal, but couldn't find them fast so used the stock paper with a light hi-temp spray adhesive. So far, so good, but only 4000 miles since the repair. Front cylinder went out on the pushrod side front 400 miles ago. Fixed with paper as well from the same gasket kit I did the first repair with. We'll see which goes first. Al | ||
| DUNCAN PEACE (Peace) |
To Fidel,about those new inlet seals which you had problems fitting.A couple of hopefully helpful hints,firstly the four 1/4 allen headed bolts,junk the two on the left side in favour of two 1/2" headed bolts with washers,use 242 blue loctite on these (needed as the plastic seals expand and contract more than metal) and the two original bolts which you use on the right.Also what air cleaner and carb bracketry are you using as the carb must sit dead center between the cylinders otherwise you will get air leaks. I hope that is of some help! Peaceman. | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
Peaceman: I wondered why you fitted those two bolts to my motor, and there was me thinking it was for speedy fitting and removal ! Rocket in England ps, what happened to your Peaceman in England signature ? | ||
| bob gussenhoven (Buellnuts) |
Saterday morning, Ducatiboy and I were heading out for a ride. Started the X-1 and Fuel started running out of one of the injectors. Being the Rocket Science type, I am I quickly came to the conclusion that it wasn't my day! Did I say running? I Meant POORING, GUSHING, FLOODING,^#%(%(&^(**$$%^^(*&$^DAMN SEAL!!!!! Good thing for me that I am that Rocket Science type a guy and that I was Quickly able to Jump on Debbie's X-3 and save what was surely going to be a sad day in the Rain Forest.! In 15,000 mile's I finally had something go wrong with the bike. This is yet another reason for one's wife to get a bike. In The Rain Forest, BOB | ||
| Ron Gilmore (Gilster) |
Just for the record: Rocker box leaks. 1996 sporty & 99 X1. 96 sporty never experienced a leak. 99 X1, front & rear leaks, both on the spark plug side of the rocker box. Both gaskets were factory paper. Both were "working" their way out from between the box & the head and became torn in the process. From the date stamp on the rear rocker box the dealer had already replaced at least the lower portion of the box before this leak (I purchased the bike used). Both were replaced with the factory paper gaskets. With proper cleaning and preparation these have always worked well for me. Both gaskets have double the milage of the original leakers and are doing fine. I have used the "James" metal gaskets before on a 1340cc and have had them leak on the cyl base and rocker box, and have had them do fine at other times. Go figure. I beleive it is all in the prep and torque method. Gil | ||
| Paul Lusk (Captlusk) |
Hey Bob, Keep us posted as to what the problem is (when you figure it out). You missed a good party but I can imagine you were busy. | ||
| Tony DeRossett (Tonyinvabeach) |
Hi all, I dropped my rear rocker box gasket on my 2000 Clone after only 2 1/2 months and 3300 miles!! Is this normal or an anomaly. I know rocker box gaskets are a weak link but only 3300 miles seems silly. Has anyone had any luck having steel gaskets installed using warranty labor? Thanks Tony | ||
| Tony DeRossett (Tonyinvabeach) |
Hi all, I dropped my rear rocker box gasket on my 2000 Clone after only 2 1/2 months and 3300 miles!! Is this normal or an anomaly. I know rocker box gaskets are a weak link but only 3300 miles seems silly. Has anyone had any luck having steel gaskets installed using warranty labor? Thanks Tony | ||
| Doug DeSeife (Meltdown) |
Hey there everyone! Maybe someone could help me out a bit? This is drivin me crazy!!! Dose anyone happen to have the cam specs for a 99 X1? I've asked everyone and all I have been told where color codes. How are ya going to up grade if you dont know what you have. Thanks! Doug D. | ||
| Chibueller |
Copied from the Windy City Brag Chapter: RE: Rocker Box Gaskets According to Kenny (IL-HD) rocker box gasket leaks can be delayed by letting your engine warm up properly. The cylinders are made of several differing metals that heat and cool (therefore, expand and contract) at different rates. A bike that is not warmed up properly may develop leaks from the rocker box because the gaskets are being heated by one type of metal on the top and another on the bottom, effectively pulling the gasket in two directions at once. This process is sped up if a load is put on the engine. Also it's a design flaw with the physical composition of the HD motor. Force from the pushrods and rockers causes vibrations at the gasket juncture, making it weak. It doesn't help that HD uses cheap gaskets. From what I understand, this is a common problem with HD motors in general. You can install higher quality (aftermarket) gaskets but I'm not sure how that will affect your warrantee. Your best bet is to have the dealer do the work (if your bike is still under warr) as soon as you see a leak. This is not a life or death leak but if you wait too long the leak can short out spark to a cylinder and you'll be left with no power. You can also do the job yourself in about 2 hours but you have to remove the tank. If I did this that would mean my warr expired and then I'd also install the better gaskets. When you have to replace them, go with the James gaskets. A few friends of mine have them and love them, 6000 miles with no change. Anyway, I gather from user profiles that the rocker box leak usually occurs between 2000 to 4500 miles and at similar increments thereafter. Keep your eyes open for oil pooling on the engine case between the two cylinders or oil spray on the battery, frame, or your legs. Fix the problem right away because a simple spray leak can deteriorate to a gusher in less than 500 miles. Meaning, long trips could get interesting. If it hasn't happened yet, don't worry about it. Just let the bike warm up. | ||
| Buellzebub |
Has anyone install a turbo on a S1 yet? What are the options? Is the ASB kit the only one out there? The info that is posted in the ASB catalog is rather brief. My personal experience has been that i can find most everything in the ASB catalog from alternate sources and would prefer to deal direct with the manufacturers of the equipment, if possibe, rather than a middle man [primarily because of the Canadian peso's exchange rate and the hassles with customs]. I would like to find a Canadian source if possible. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I am looking into this as a winter project here in the great white north [Calgary, AB, Canada] | ||
| Travis |
I believe that the one in the ASB catalog is the Aero-Charger. http://www.aerocharger.com/mcprics.htm Trav | ||
| Jmartz |
On the rocker box gasket thread: My bike is approaching 40,000 miles and has yet to spring a rocker box leak. I've taken the top end down twice and kept the original 1996 rubber gaskets. the paper ones have been replaced at 30,000 and 32,000. I do let the bike warm up well before using it but I'm not sure waht effect that might be having. | ||
| Chibueller |
Jmartz, Not everyone will experience the problem. I posted it for awareness' sake. | ||
| Jmartz |
Chibueler: I do have persistent weeps out the oil filter and have experienced several others that are currently in remission. To name a few, cylinder base, trans breather (failed sprocketshaft seal), trans pulley shaft (outer bearing walked and tossed the seal), pushrod tube, crankcase breather (at the heads), oil tank grommets (two new tanks), fork seals, rear shock weep and others I'm sure that I have by now forgotten. | ||
| Rans3t |
99' S3T with 25,000 miles rockerbox gaskets replaced at 7,000 miles when head work accomplished. No leaks since,dry as a popcorn fart. I did the work my self. seems if proper torque is used and stock paper gaskets are used insuring proper warm up is followed. No problems will be experienced. Later | ||
| Aaron |
"seems if proper torque is used and stock paper gaskets are used insuring proper warm up is followed. No problems will be experienced." Personally I'd be reluctant to draw such a conclusion from a sample of one. The rocker box and cylinder head are both aluminum. The bolts are steel. So yes, the bolts aren't all the way tight when the motor is cold, because aluminum has almost twice the expansion coefficient. But, I've seen failures even in bikes that are warmed up religously. So I'm not at all sure how big of a factor this really is. I think people may be overstating it. But, I guess without a controlled study, we're all just guessing. I'm still clinging to the "pushrods make the box dance around" theory. I know this isn't the case with everyone, but every failed gasket I've personally changed has been a terribly distorted pushrod side gasket. Like it got shoved out of place by movement. Judging from Blake's report, though, there's more than one failure mode at work. See ya, AW |
