| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Blastin... Were you on a Cyclone, I would tell you to inspect your primary chain tensioner, actually removing it to look for cracks in the backplate. Then I would tell you to check the shift drum for pins that are not longer firmly pressed into place and now flop around. Both these issues would probably be just as relevant on a blast, but you might want to wait for somebody with more experience with the blasts to back some of this up. And I never heard that method of primary chain adjustment, is that a Blast thing? It sounds like an interesting approach, but I don't know how it would account for a stretched chain (that would give different readings in different places). Noface... I recall a discussion of the 1200 clutches a way back, and I recall the consensus being that the stock sportster clutches were very good, usually the best choice. Others played with some aftermarket setups for particular very high power drag bikes with some very narrow goals, but these clutches lead hard and short lives and even in that application people had better luck with the sportster clutch. Don't know about the friction plates. Does the manual have an opinion? They can't be that expensive, and if they are important I bet they are part of the clutch package you buy from Harley. I thought the XB drivetrain was the same as the tubers, with the difference that there is a second shift rail, and no longer any trapdoor (  ). | ||
| Blastin |
Well I finally got the time to try and remedy my Clutch/Tranny problem last night. I was able to talk to a factory rep. about possibilities and he gave me a few ideas. But as always he said to start with the simple stuff and go from there. The secondary "clunk" made him think that it might be the primary drive sprocket. I pulled off the cover and the drive sprocket was fine. He said change the primary fluid and adjust the clutch and take it from there. Other than that, it could possible be internal, which means splitting the cases. I changed the fluid(full synthetic) and adjusted the clutch.(The torx screws were not that bad to remove, fortunately) Neutral is still kind of hard to find and the light is still intermitent. I wasn't able to get out too much to check the operation because of time constraints. I will check it further tonight. Hopefully I have gotten rid of the secondary "clunk" I am pretty sure that I did find the source of the not being able to idle in neutral problem though. The Sidestand Safety Switch appears to be malfunctioning. I had the bike on a swingarm stand (Thanks again MikeJ  ) After adjusting the clutch, I started it up to see if I screwed anything major up. The sidestand was up at the time. I was going to lower the bike and take it for a test ride. So I lowered the side stand before lowering the bike, and the bike died out. I restarted the bike and when I let out the clutch it died again. I put the side stand up and the bike would idle. I disconected the side stand switch and the bike would not idle with the clutch let out. I jumped the connector and the bike would idle with the clutch let out. With the bike running, I pulled out the jump in the switch and the bike predictably died. I will put in a new switch tonight(~$12.00) and that should take care of the idleing problem. I will give the tranny/clutch problem some more checking and thought, but if it comes to splitting the cases???????? Thats something I am not fully equiped to do. So everybody keep your fingers crossed. Jerry | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
...dont know if this is a clutch or starter problem....but here goes, maybe someone can help....due to work the M2 is only just now out of winter storage. Battery was removed over winter and kept charged. Also removed old oil and filled up with new cheap lighter oil for winter, planning to remove before spring use. Today installed battery, checked all bits and bobs, fuel on, choke open, etc. Hit starter and it turned the engine a couple of times then 'clicked' out at the starter. Tried several times and got one 'almost start' then it reverted to clicking away at the starter. There appears to be some drag in the clutch which feels odd. If I pull in the clutch in any gear I can still feel the gear engagement, and although I have adjusted the clutch a little the problem persists. Thinking maybe the battery needed a top-up I did that and tried again but still no joy, the starter just whiirrs and clicks away and there is no enagagement as if to turn over engine. Any suggestions? Might try this in the starter section too, so apologies Admin for the double post, delete whichever you think less apporpriate if you want. Thanks. | ||
| Rocketman |
I'm not entirely convinced there is a problem John. I think yer battery is toast! Rocket  | ||
| Hans |
Jocklandjohn : Rocketman`s man remark is exactly what sprang first in mind: No battery care at all and long long winter rest did not spoil my 2KM2`s battery. It is possible to toast your battery on such short time, if you ever discharged your battery too deeply: Below 1.8 Volts/cel. Not likely. But if you did, you can top it up till maybe a nice 13.8 Volts, but the battery can`t deliver anymore then the needed 150 or 200 Amperes. Maybe, if you pull the plugs, and turn the engine a few times by moving the bike (with the transmission engaged of course). In any case, it will make sure that the crank CAN be rotated, but in the case of a "so so battery" it can be just enough to loose some stickyness and let you start. Cleaning up the contacts of the power leads and battery with fine grid can make the difference between starting and almost starting. You have beautiful weather today I saw on the weather map: Good luck. Hans | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Thanks Rocket and Hans. Battery was new last year and did only 1500 miles! Removed the plugs yesterday before I asked for help here, and gave the bike a rock to and fro to loosen things up and get the crank moving, but the garage is grass outside with a slope and I was alone and worried that if I got out and onto the road to give a real push and it didnt start I would be stuck. Will have to try some more asap with a burly pusher to assist. Will keep you posted! Yes Hans we had amazingly good weather and the Highlands are full of bikers just now all with biiiig smiles...... so many great roads, dry and warm....loads of possibilities for a grand day out............mmmmm! But I wasn't one of them..... Query......the battery was put on an Optimate a couple of times over the winter, and it wont make the LED's on the unit light correctly......it never ever gets the green ' properly charged' light to go on...always only the 'charging' one. Does this mean it is a knackered battery....? Thanks for the help. | ||
| Hans |
Jocklandjohn: Mmmm, "Should this occur the red LED will indicate a "suspect" condition but the charging circuit will continue to support the battery until disconnected." from http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/productprofile.asp?ProductGroupID=1039 Good luck, Hans | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Thanks Hans - I will wrestle with this one for a bit I think! | ||
| Rocketman |
John, the Optimate can stay on amber for several days if the battery is \ was discharged somewhat. If there is a problem it will display red, again though, this could also take several days. Tell ya what though, in my experience I've found dry cell batteries need to be constantly maintained which means only one thing, ALWAYS leave the Optimate plugged in when the bike's idle. Further your comments above lead me to believe more so it is your battery that has failed. Demon Tweeks will be able to supply you a Red Top 20 overnight for around £85 Rocket | ||
| Martin |
I just ran my bolt in the local drags and lost in the semi-final of the 12.50 class when the trans stuck in 3rd and wouldn't go up until I took the load right off. Is this likely to be a clutch adjustment thing? It was the 8th run of the day and I'm not experienced enough to be brutal! | ||
| Blake |
Martin, Check primary chain adjustment, fluid level, clutch adjustment, and... the little screw holding the retaining collar onto the countershaft. See XB9's thread about "Losing 2nd gear." | ||
| Martin |
Thanks, Blake. I'd just done all the usual first service stuff, like changed the oil, set the primary and clutch, etc, but I'll have another look. Thanks PS I just got the full results and the winner of the class turned a slower time in the final than I did in qualifying! I guess that's why drag-racing is so addictive. Is 12.60@113 respectable for a stock 'bolt? | ||
| Blake |
Martin, If the problem showed up immediately following servicing, that's a pretty good indication that something related to the servicing is what is causing the problem. I dunno, but it would be great for me. Check in on the drag racing page in the KV - Racing - Drag Racing topic. | ||
| Kahuna |
would anyone happen to know the part number for a clutch cable for a 98 S1W? also, is there anything i should know before i attempt to replace it myself? pitfalls? is it a straight forward procedure? many thanks! K | ||
| Blake |
Kahuna, I cannot absolutely confirm the part number though it is probably the same as the one for my '97 Cyclone. That part number is... 38656-96Y Check the copy of Buell's old online service manual in the Knowledge Vault for installation and adjustment instructions. | ||
| Kahuna |
cheers blake! just an fyi for everyone ... called the dealer and the updated part number for a clutch cable is: 38656-00YA i believe that fits tube frames 96+ K | ||
| Blake |
You might want to confirm that the new part does indeed fit your S1W. If your parts man didn't check to be sure, I wouldn't make the assumption that it does. | ||
| Kahuna |
he specifically said and checked with the tech that this is the updated part number for the clutch cable. it supercedes 38656-96Y, which is the one you gave me. anyhow, i'm putting it on tonight and will let everyone know it it doesn't fit. | ||
| Kahuna |
an fyi for those interested, clutch cable 38656-96Y is one in the same as 38656-00YA. it fit my 98 S1W no problem. | ||
| Awprior |
Pull off the clutch cover. Make sure you loosen all of the screws a bit or else you'll get one stuck and have a heck of a time getting it out without stripping them. You'll see a little hex head 'nut' with with a rod sticking through the middle of it. Pull the 'nut off'. Loosen the rod(turn to the right, as it has left hand threads) with a small screwdriver until it is loose. Make sure the clutch lever is out all the way. Then gently bottom it out (you shouldn't have to turn it far). Pull the clutch lever a few times to set the balls in the ramp at the proper position. Put the little nut and spring back on, and put the cover back on. While you're at it, you might as well replace the torx screws with a few hex head capscrews. Alex | ||
| Roadrunr |
Anyone, is the blueing of the gears a heat treat thing or would I have another issue with my clutch gears?  | ||
| Bud |
here's mine it's hard to see but on the startergear it is blue as well, didn't see it on the primairy gear  | ||
| Johncestar |
I have a 2000 M2 cyclone,and it "pops"(not a back fire)once in a while.and the bike hesitates for a second.I have taken off original filter for a buell "race"oval filter.Does anyone know what this is? I am new to the board so i dont know if i even did this rite.Any riders in chicago who want to ride on sundays? johncestar@aol.com | ||
| Awprior |
Mine does that at times when I'm impatient and don't let it warm up properly. If it's doing it right when you start riding, this could be the case. Otherwise, it's a backfire coming out of the carb, and I believe may be caused by a lean running carb, which could have happened when you changed the aircleaner. Are you still running the original jets? This should go in the KV under carbureation. edited by awprior on September 15, 2003 | ||
| Johncestar |
my clutch seems to be getting softer and softer(WHEN I ENGAGE)am i losing the clutch?will i need a new one?if so where can i get one that is a bolt on so i dont have to pay the 100000 dollar an hour service depo. johncestar@aol.com | ||
| Dave |
Sounds like it simply needs adjustment. Adjust the primary chain at the same time. If you haven't changed the primary oil...consider it too. DAve | ||
| Johncestar |
Has anyone built a chopper or streetfighter out of thier buell?I founf a place called mcworx and the sell both frames for buell motors.Has anyone had any luck or info?thanks! | ||
| Johncestar |
I am new to bwb,and am not that mechanicly(sp)inclined.My clutch is getting looser and looser could someone explain how to fix this? johncestar@aol.com | ||
| Dave |
If you're talking free play in the clutch cable, there is a rubber accordian looking boot on the cable. Slide it up and there is a threaded piece and a jam nut. Loosen the jam nut and you can adjust the cable. You should have about 1/8 in play in the cable to handle bar lever seat. DAve | ||
| Reepicheep |
What does a worn out / glazed clutch feel like on these things? Under hard acceleration in any gear, I get what feels like rear wheel hop. Only at peak power, it will happen at any time and any gear. Its not the traditional worn out clutch smooth slip I am used to having from other vehicles, but rather a jerky hop type thing. Not as sharp as the "worn gear dogs", but much sharper then what I am used to with slipping clutches. I know I burnt something up from some miles put on with a mis-adjusted ball and ramp mech (long story). I had to change the primary fluid and I could smell the burnt clutch... like from across the garage. So anyway, I am just trying to get an idea if the clutch should be replaced... it's got almost 20k miles on the original. Thanks in advance... |
