| Author | Message | ||
     Fidel (Doncasto) |
Wiring: By John Kirby (Kirb) on Wednesday, September 22, 1999 - 01:39 pm: Just had to answer a post on August 2nd. I finally did some electrical work myself on the bike and this is what I found: (Wiring into a '99 M2 fuse block. How do you do it? My service manual dosen't show the white wires coming out of the "spare" and un-used positions.) The spare white wires that come out of the fuse block are looped back to themselves and are tucked away in the wire harness. If you want to use a fuse position, pull the loop out of the harness for the position you want and cut the loop in the middle. You will have to splice the "hot" side of the fuse to the "hot" side of another fuse (check for switched or unswithced) and tie the "load" side of the fuse to your acc. Be careful not to hook up the splice to the "load" side of another fuse, that way if your device shorts out, you could blow the wrong fuse. The best way to tell the "hot" vs. "load" side of the fuse is to pull out the fuse and look for +12V on one side of the fuse (hot) and 0V on the other side (load) | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
From Neil Schwartz's archives: I/P lamps: Here's the HD part# breakdown on the instrument lamps for the S1W. Gauges - BULB (as required) 53439-79 Indicators - BULB, indicator lamps (5) 68024-94 If your parts man would look one line down from "INDICATOR LIGHT ASM., complete" he would see the listing for just the lamp. The lens and jewel are also available seperately. The lamp you've described is called a "wedge" style miniature lamp. Best as I can tell from your escription it is a #37 lamp. You can try an electronics house with this number. | ||
| Dave Tripp (Tripper) |
Has anyone replaced the switch sets on an older Buell (pre-99?) with the much nicer ones being placed on the 2000 bikes? I have reason to buy new switches and want the nicer switch set. Thanx for any feeedback. DaveT | ||
| Jose E. Martinez (Jmartz) |
Dave: One thing I like about the newer set is that the throttle wires are finger rather than wrench adjustable. Also their style is prettier and smoother particularly the signal switch. I wish I could adapt those Ducati style controls with the remote seethrough reservoir though. Jose | ||
| jeff adamson (Paisan) |
I went out yesterday to take a short ride(its been over a week) and my m2 wont start. I have lights, horn, everything...but when i hit the button...nothing. The lights dont go dim like the battery is low, and I dont hear any starter noises like theres not enuff power to engage it. I hear nothing. What the heck could be wrong? Help please! | ||
| Idzerda (Hans) |
Try first the easy ones: Kill switch on, gear in neutral, shortcut the sidestander switch: U-wire into the connector near the switch. Hans. | ||
| Alan Levesque (Buellhandluke) |
I just replaced the plastic dash panel on my '00 X1 with a billit aluminum model. Everything works fine except for my trip meter. It counts up like it is supposed to but when I shut off the bike it zeroes itself out. I did see a small spark when I was reinstalling the wires to either the speedo or tach. The service manual didn't say I needed to disconnect the battery. The odometer seems to be working fine. Can this be reset at the dealer? | ||
| Alan Levesque (Buellhandluke) |
Disregard previous post. I just blew the memory fuse. When I saw the spark I also heard a pop in the back of the bike. Pulled out the memory fuse and it is blown. It traces right back to the speedo. Makes me wonder why the odometer isn't also zeroing itself out. | ||
| Richard Weiss (Rickway) |
Any suggestions for an alternative to the very expensive M2 Tach Kit. Has anyone installed an aftermarket the looks good and works? Rickway20@yahoo.com | ||
| Buell Howser (Buellhowser) |
Can someone give me a definitive answer regarding headlight bulbs? We all know the stocker (55/60?) can stand major improvement; however, I've read of charging system inadequacies when higher wattage bulbs are attempted. Has anyone out there successfully installed a 95/100 watt or similar bulb and lived to ride home at night and tell about it? Thanks in advance, BH | ||
| Dave Tripp (Tripper) |
If you have a need to replace your handlebar switches on an older Buell, consider this. I just put the 2000 M2 switch set on my '98 S1 and it was nearly plug & play. You will probably have to grind off the locating tit that seats into a hole in the bars unless you have replaced those with current production items. Total cost of both switch sets, both grips, and new throttle cables is $81 USD. (I was quoted $61 for just the right switch set if I was to replace it with the 98 part.) Of course this mod will ruin your resale value if you have a stock bike. HA! | ||
| Donn Griffin (Seeeu911) |
Buellhowser... 98S1WL here. I am running the 80/100 headlamp and a halogen rear bulb. Also a pair of high watt driving lights. No electrical meltdowns to date. 6 months. Still hte factory battery but about to die after 6k miles. I saw in the recent issue of Hot Bike a HID light kit which I'm waiting on pricing. Promises great light with 3.5 amp draw verus the 10 amp standard. | ||
| H. Michael Falconer (H_man) |
Hey BH! I've a '00 M2 that I placed the superbeam halogen bulb (I believe it's 100/110 watts) and, at Tat's recommendation - at ASB, I replaced the headlamp housing with one he recommended as designed to take full/better advantage of the higher wattage. It was a simple change. Things have been absolutely GREAT! No electrical probs at all. I REALLY light up the night. It adds seconds to reaction time and adds the amount of periphery seen. I rode with a buddy one night who still had his stock X1 headlamp and the difference was shocking. Be sure to adjust the lamp after the install (center beam 35" from ground at 25' out). Ride safe. H-man | ||
| H. Michael Falconer (H_man) |
I've a really simple question from a first time bike owner. Regarding winter storage of the battery.... I plan to attach a trickle battery charger to the battery. Do I need to disconnect the cables attached to the battery posts before I attach the charger? Do I have to remove the battery from the bike or may I leave it in its housing? Is it safe to leave the battery and charger in an unheated garage over the winter (I live in Michigan, so it'll may go down to the twenties and teens - temperature wise - at some point in the garage)? H-man | ||
| Old Weird Bob (Stoneagedude) |
H_Man OK to leave bat in bike..disconnect not a bad idea, good excuse to clean terminals when spring arrives. I never worry about that stuff, and I got 45 years messin with electricals. Main thing is keeping battery charged, won't freeze. (discharged bat will) What I worry about is some goofy thing happening like earthquake or mouse or somethin flips charger wire off and sits there arcing. Be sure its clamped on there good. Dont park under somethin that will freeze & dump all over yer pretty paint. Big tough cable to keep the thugs from walking off with it, maybe some stuff to keep the gas from going sour, maybe change oil (hot) get rid of any moisture ya dont want in the internals eating things while yer sittin by the fire. Ain't winter a pain in the butt? | ||
| 00' X-1 Race Stripe, Neil S. (Ccryder) |
Ref: High wattage lights. I ran a PIAA 90/110 and then a 110/135 untill they burned out. I still run the 90/110 as a compromise for life. The higher wattage bulbs have a shorter life, usually. In addition to the higher wattage head lamp I run the PIAA 1100X driving lights. They can only be called one thing BRIGHT. Just ask Vik-eeeek or some others that witnessed my night arrivals at Home Coming. There was no one that didn't know that Sparky was coming in the drive. As soon as my S3 fairing is painted they are going on my X-3. Later, time2clean the garage. Neil S. | ||
| mikej (Mikej) |
H-Man, maybe stoneagedude will comment, but I remember some discussion about certain trickle chargers/battery maintainers not being compatible with certain Buell batteries. Gel cell, dry cell, sealed, something or other. I know my BatteryTenderPlus states: "Excellent for all lead acid batteries including maintenance free and gel cell", but some chargers may not be so battery friendly. Just a cautionary heads-up. | ||
| Old Weird Bob (Stoneagedude) |
Good point.. | ||
| H. Michael Falconer (H_man) |
Stoneagedude and Mikej, Thanks a ton for the info. I'll be sure to read the charger package before using it. Since I got it from ASB, I presumed it would be good for a Buell battery. I'll dbl-ck just to play it safe. Later, H-man | ||
| Buell Howser (Buellhowser) |
Thanks all for your input regarding higher wattage headlights. Sounds like I can pop a 100 watt in my S3 with no problems. This is pretty much the last thing I need to upgrade! H-man - does Tat sell a different lens for the S3? I ordered my zero gravity windscreen from him, but he forgot to include the catalog I requested. Thanks! BH | ||
| H. Michael Falconer (H_man) |
BH, I just looked through my ASB catalogue and didn't see a conversion housing like the one he suggested for my M2 (item #5794). The halogen bulb I use is item #5488. It's 110/90 watts and the write up states it's designed to draw the same power as a non-halogen 60/55 bulb. Both the one I purchased and the MORE POWER 130/125 halogen (item #5487) are said to fit all the Buell bikes. Whichever you choose, your night riding will be safer and more fun; and you'll definitely be more visable during the day (with this much candlepower, there's no need to consider a light modulator for added safey). V/R H-man | ||
| Doug P (Dougp) |
What was the definitive answer (if there was one) on replacing a discontinued S1 battery? I positively HATE the revised solution using the Blast battery. I'm sure it's a good/better battery, but the looks leave alot to be desired. Thanks for any info. Doug P. | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
Try one of these Doug !  Hawker, in the States ? Rocket in England | ||
| Doug P (Dougp) |
Rocket, does it come in any other color than RED? Kinda damn ugly. Looks big too. Will it fit in an S1W? thanks, Doug P. | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
Doug, it is the same battery as in an S1, only it is a later development. The plates run across rather than along, which is why the terminals are at each end, hence, you have to re-route one wire. Because of its case strengthening moulds, it sits on top of the front lip of your S1W tray. You have a choice, cut the lip off or pack the tray with more rubber. Other than that, it is a perfect fit. Comes with mounting hardware too ! I think someone posted a pic of an American company who sell this battery under a different name, maybe different colour too ! Maybe MTCK ?  Rocket in England | ||
| Doug P (Dougp) |
Christ Sean!, if I get that battery I've got to go racing. I just noticed it was a RACING battery. Thanks for the pics. Still a little squeamish on hacking the front lip of the tray off. Maybe the company that originally made the battery didn't discontinue it. Maybe Buell got pissed at 'em and quit using their stuff. Ala White Power............... dreaming, hoping....... | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
No Doug, the story is\was, Hawker Energies made the original S1 battery. I think it was called Genesis. Hawker stopped making the ones fitted to our Buell's in 1996. Apparently, lots of them suffered from terminal failures due to the plates running along the length of the case. Not enough strength in the mounting. All these batteries have the terminals at one end. After '96, Hawker redesigned it. The plates now run across the battery and the terminals are at opposite ends. Anyway, my Hawker battery is put together by a company called DMS Technologies. I reckon BMC bought loads of the old batteries, cheap, and that's why they're failing. They've been sat on a warehouse shelf for who knows how long after '96, at least until BMC bought 'em all. Now they're in our Buell's, and under warranty, which, in the long run, has probably cost BMC a lot more money than they originally budgeted for. Pack the mounting plate with rubber. It worked on mine just fine.  Rocket in England | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Another option ...  AW | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
What a mess  Rocket in England | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
One more thing ... at Homecoming, I saw another solution, can't remember who it was, but he had gone to Batteries Plus with dimensions in hand and found a battery that actually fit the tray, which neither mine nor apparently Rocket's does. It mounted like Rocket's, terminals forward, but it wasn't that ridiculous color, it was black. Not having a Batteries Plus in the neighborhood, I went the Yuasa route, and it works good, it's a maintenance free sealed battery, but I'd rather have something that fits the tray. Good luck S1'ers, AW | ||
| Dave Tripp (Tripper) |
Just do the natural thing, go to your dealer and have him put in the new S1 battery. About $100 and it alleviates the clacking.   | ||
| Donn Griffin (Seeeu911) |
Rocket...Love your Bike man..what is that next to the rear license plate ?? looks like a engine breather ? if so what's the other breather next to the battery ? Tranny ? At first from other pictures of your bike I thought it was some super secret Bond type device from Q. (gawd ugly battery..i'm getting one but will paint it black..) | ||
| Doug P (Dougp) |
Dave, the upgrade? is what I've got. Not crazy about the looks. Especially if there is another option. Rocket, I like the DMS, Odyssey, solution. ONLY if it comes in another color. Aaron, do you recall if the "Batteries Plus" battery you saw was a sealed battery? I found their website. Looks like they've got conventional "non-sealed" batteries that would work. But the convenience of a sealed/gel type is obviously more appealing. In closing, thanks to all of you that posted. Looks like there is a few options here. DougP | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Doug, Considering the orientation he mounted it in, I think it pretty much had to be a sealed battery, probably a gel cell or dry cell. I'm with you, leakers suck, I won't buy one anymore. See ya, AW | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
RED BATTERY SYNDROME : I know what you mean about Racing Car Red...................it looks real fast  On a black bike, it looks wicked. You have to see it in the "flesh" to appreciate it. Porsche Face : that is the engine breather next to the tag. I've "T'd" it under the tank and run the hose along the frame tube. The photo is a little out of date now. I've since done the hose in s\s braid. The breather next to that sad looking battery is indeed the tranny breather. That was a temporary "experimental" position. It's now folded down so it loops forward from where the pic shows it, and it is clamped inside the lower frame tube with one of Arlen Ness's expensive billet brackets. Looks way cool. By the way, your engine is in the wrong place, Misteeer 911  Rocket in England | ||
| Steve Rodgers (Budo) |
Oddesy battery web site. http://www.odysseydirect.com/index.html | ||
| Chris Matty (Matty) |
Attention electron cowboys! I have just discovered a strange electrical phenomenon with my M2 - it likes to turn itself back on. With the key in the off position the bike will shut down, but within a couple of minutes the speedo and taillight come on. All the fuses look good and if I pull the "accessory" fuse it kills the power. Based on my limited diagnostic skills relating to things electrical can anyone hazard a guess on what I should check next? Does it sound like I have a short in the ignition switch? Thanks mucho, Matty x-posted to GDB | ||
| mikej (Mikej) |
Sounds like the parking function is triggering somehow. My guess would be the switch or a ground or a start of a short in the wiring. Try switching to the park function and then back to off and see if it still happens. | ||
| Chris Matty (Matty) |
Turns out my afore mentioned problem was a dud ignition switch. Fortunately the dealer had a replacement in stock. Interestingly, Buell sells the switch, fork lock, and new keys as a kit - don't need two different keys! | ||
| Travis Sprouse (Travis) |
Hello all. I have a 97 S3 and as you may know the ignition switch is on the left side below the fuel tank. I want to move it to the instrument panel where the Buell Logo sticker thingie is, just to the right of the instruments. Does anyone know if the switch from later model would work or should i just splice in the extra length into the switch that i have? Thanks is advance Travo |
