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Fromparis
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help! Got an oil leak at the oil cooling line into the case. (see picture) Anyone with a "quick" (i.e not $$$$) fix. The dealership tells me they will have to take the headers of, blah, blah, blah... They are warning me that the case might me cracked. I cleaned the case this past week end and observed the "small nut annoying" leak…it DOES NOT look like a cracked case to me. I tried to put some epoxy around the thread with (of course) no results. Anyone knows of something else that could "stop" that leak and avoid major surgery? Thanks.
leak
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fromparis- Why would it be necessary to remove the headers? Looks like you can detach the oil line and unscrew the 90 degree fitting that screws into the case. Clean everything off good using brake cleaner or similar. I'd recommend using teflon pipe thread sealant (NOT tape) on the threads of the fitting prior to re-installation. You can get it at your local building supply store. The trick is to screw the fitting back in so it's tight enough, but not too tight (or broken off!), and indexed correctly so it lines up with the oil line.
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Fromparis
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The factory is using "orange" thread sealer... does it mean that the fitting might be REALLY hard to get off? What are the risks that it breaks in the process?
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, April 09, 2009 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would say the risks are very low. If it's leaking the orange thread sealer obviously didn't do much.

Another way to seal it would be to use a "Tru Seal" teflon inserted jam nut. You'd need to make sure the crankcase is flat and smooth at that point (file a flat if necessary). The nut works like a locknut except that it also provides a seal; it's handy for items like this because you don't have to screw the elbow tight- you turn it until it's aligned like you want and then tighten down the lock nut. You might be able to find them at a local industrial supplier or plumbing supply house:

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem. de7b26ee6a659c147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=fcc9b5 bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextdiv=60197 5&vgnextcatid=2721245&vgnextcat=MILLER%20TRU%20SEA L%20PIPE%20THREAD%20SEALING%20NUTS&vgnextfmt=defau lt
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