| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Is that Yusa an absorbed glass mat (or similar) setup? The Harely part is a little pricey ($80), but from what I can tell is about as good a battery as you can buy. Comparable ones are much more elsewhere... | ||
| 99x1 |
"The Harely part is a little pricey ($80), but from what I can tell is about as good a battery as you can buy..." The Hawker Odyssey (which is probably the best battery you can buy) is only ~$85. The PC545J has an external metal jacket (for heat and vibration) and is ~$95 (they gave me the jacket free when I bought mine). The Odyssey has almost no standby loss, amazing cranking power, and a design life of 12 years. I've only had mine a year..... | ||
| Dave |
For future ref...I got a Odyssey battery (PC545MJ) for the S3 for under $70 delivered from Sunn Battery of FL. They sell 'em on eBay all the time too. Terrific customer service too. The battery with the metal jacket is a tighter fit with the retaining band. DAve | ||
| Stubby |
Heck if I know, but it WORKS great, and i'm not showing a discharge when I hook up the battery tender upon a return from a ride, so more than anything I am relieved not to have charging system problems! Whew! The thieves at the HD place charge you for 1/2 hour labor to check the charging system, the local multi line dealer charges nothing. Man. I guess everyone is in business to make money, and that's fine I guess. After my experience with this "only game in town" HD dealer here, I do not believe I will ever buy another HD product so long as I live. I do not appreciate being treated like a red headed step child. Not at all! Stubby. | ||
| Alnagy |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=197201#POST 197201 ...hope I followed directions correctly for this link. Anyway, thank you Chad for your response. Charged the battery; put it in the bike, and with a solid 13 volt reading...nothin'  ) Took it to my HD/Buell dealer, who walked me back into the shop and explained the test procedure. The battery still showed 13 volts, but when the service tech put a load on it (to simulate starting), the readouts went blank. Bought a new battery and will be riding today. The misleading part was the voltage reading on the bad battery. I know there is more to the equation than just voltage, and I think as little denial on my part factored in. Thanks again for your input. | ||
| Chadwixk |
Al, No problem. Glad you are back in business. I had that denial thing going on too. I also read the voltage, which looked to be fine, which threw me (and I went to school for Electrical Engineering...though I never practiced it after graduation). And just for the record, it was Reepicheep who set me straight. | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Is it very hard to replace the signal bulbs in my 96'S1's dash? I have no Bright, or Turn signal lights. The Oil light comes on when I turn key to start, so I know the bulb in it is OK. I have a slight bit of slack in my key slot, but don't think it's the problem. I also lose rear brake(lever) sensor, I've replaced it twice so far. I've heard shootin' some WD40 brings it back, is this true? Johnny V | ||
| Blake |
It is not too difficult to replace the little lights in your dash. I've used contact cleaner and WD40 to revive my front brake's sensor/switch. | ||
| Grndskpr |
One thing i learned a summer or 2 ago, was whenever a battery fails, check to make sure you are getting correct voltage from the stator/ regulator, while the battery may have gone bad its always a good idea to make sure the rest of the system is working properly, before you get a battery, only to find out, far from home, that it was another un seen problem, this tip was given to me by a factory rep, and i have used it ever since on all my bikes, takes little time, and gives me peace of mind as i ride down the road later Roger | ||
| Mbsween |
Reep, I owe you a beer  , you'll need to read a lot to get there tho, email me your preference. Got my first tow truck ride on a motorcycle yesterday. Rode the bike to a diner on a fine 50 degree November morning in Rochester, NY. Got some coffee, came back out to the bike, turned the key and nothing. I mean as in absolutely nothing. The bike had been running great, then the VR went (end of september) and I killed the battery (its a 2001 X1 with 16000 miles) in the process of diagnosing the VR (twice). Replaced the VR (thanks DaveS), charged it back up all was fine. Battery was getting 14.2 volts at 1.5k rpm  Everything was cool for about 6 weeks, then it started to sound like an old chevy starting, a quick whirr, followed by a really dragged out rotation, then normal. The ecm light would come on with a low volt warning. I figured I messed up the wiring somewhere along the way. After it died, I tried all the testing on the X1 files and here. Couldn't find anything wrong, so I undid all grounds and cleaned them with sandpaper. I also let the battery charge on the Battery tender, voltage was 13.6 when finished. Once I got it all back together, the lights would come on, but it would die if I moved the key past park or if I turned anything on (turn signal, brake light). Weird part was the negative terminal on the battery was getting warm to the touch while the key was in the park position (again I'm thinking short) About to give up , I decide to consult the group and there is your post at the top suggesting hooking up a car battery directly to the bike battery leads to test. I hooker her up to the chyrsler and whammo She works like a champ. So thats how I come to owing you the beer ( or maybe some fine ancient Sun 1 GB scsi drives) I got the PC545MJ battery for 85.00 delivered, search for pc545mj on ebay if your in need. Now all I need is for the weather to stay warm for the next week (yeah and the bills will win the superbowl) Matt | ||
| 99x1 |
Check the charge voltage at higher revs - it shouldn't go above 15 volts. Sealed batteries (esp the PC545, read the warranty) can't withstand overcharging. They will gradually (over weeks) lose cranking power, and then die.... (BTDT) | ||
| Mbsween |
John, Thanks, I tested it up to 4000rpm, and it didn't get above 14.7 - 14.8. The dvm clips kept falling off at the higher rpms. One thing I forgot to mention is that when I replaced the VR I didn't lock-tite the VR bolts. They vibrated loose shortly, the ecm light would go on and off while riding. Once I got it tightened down, everything seemed okay again. I;m sure that wasn't kind to the battery. I will check it out with the new battery tho, just to be sure. Matt | ||
| Reepicheep |
Glad it is coming together Mb! Any time I have a car battery over 5 years old, or a bike battery over 3 years old, when something goes wrong with the charging system the battery is guilty until proven innocent. | ||
| Hootowl |
"Any time I have a car battery over 5 years old, or a bike battery over 3 years old, when something goes wrong with the charging system the battery is guilty until proven innocent." Amen. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey all, new battery is in. Since its a top mount, I had to pull the wires a little to get them to line up. Anyone else using a PC545Mj have any issues with mounting? Here's a quick pic.  Lovely to hear the thing running again. Now if I can just keep the snow away for a couple more days. PS I tested up to 4200rpm, Battery voltage stayed around 14.2 - 14.3. Is that where it should be ? Thanks Matt | ||
| Dave |
Without consulting my manual Matt I'd say that's good voltage for the RPMs. As far as the mount...you might be able to get some top to side posts converters in case the cables are stressed. If they don't have enough slack, I'm thinkin' you might break the battery terminal or cable. Mounting that battery on my S3, the retaining strap was a bit of a bear to get on over the metal jacket. DAve | ||
| Mbsween |
Dave, Yeah, the negative cable is long enough, so no issue, but the positive cable is a little short (1/2"  so it has some strain. Any ideas on where to get the converters? Matt (waiting for 7" of snow to go away) | ||
| Dave |
Nahhh sure can't seem to find any. Maybe I am having automotive flashbacks/assumptions with the side /top post adapter. Perhaps a cable from an S3, M2 ...heck...lawn tractor would be a little longer and do the trick. DAve | ||
| V2win |
Yuasa makes the cables. You should be able to go to a well stocked dealer and buy just about any length you need. Get the ones that are real flexible. | ||
| Mbsween |
John, thanks for the pointer, sounds better than Dave's raping the lawn tractor idea  | ||
| Dave |
Hey now...It's not rape if the tractor consents. I am in IL after all.  DAve | ||
| Rick_a |
I shoe horned one of those batteries to my S1. There is a warning on it stating that it is not recommended for inverted use...so I made sure to mount mine right side up. There must be a reason why... NAPA has some small battery cables that work great, too. Any voltage of 13.5 to 15 volts is considered acceptable for rectified DC output. | ||
| 99x1 |
I put 3M cold shrink (used for underground splices) on the battery cable and took it out from under the battery tray.  | ||
| Mbsween |
Dave, inverting and rectifying is still considered immoral up here in NY, even if the tractor consents  99x1 how many miles/years do you have on that battery? How's it worked out for you? Are you running electric clothing? edited by mbsween on November 30, 2003 | ||
| Rick_a |
Those cables look a bit kinky, too. Seriously, though...there's valving up top to handle any gasses produced...I would imagine inverting it could interfere with proper operation. I could be wrong...someone should find out... | ||
| 99x1 |
"imagine inverting it could interfere with proper operation. I could be wrong..." Some of the sealed batteries shouldn't used in the inverted position (e.g. Panasonic), as the gas recombiner is at the top (VRLA - valve regulated lead acid). The Hawker Odyessy is a "dry" battery and can be used in any position. (and is used on fighter aircraft) From Panasonic: WARNING Do not charge the battery in the inverted (upside-down) position: overcharging in the inverted position may cause battery leakage from the safety valve. From Hawker: The ODYSSEY® battery may be installed on its sides at any angle without sacrificing any performance attributes. There is no fear of any acid spillage as ODYSSEY® recycles the internal gas during operation or charging. | ||
| 99x1 |
"how many miles/years do you have on that battery? How's it worked out for you? Are you running electric clothing?" About 5000 km, 1.5 years, so far so good. Yep, running an electric vest. That is a flat fuse holder on top on the battery in the picture, going to a white 2-conductor trailer plug (just visible in picture). | ||
| Mbsween |
99x1, Thanks, I run the a vest also, forgot to put the harness on tho. I would like to run a cord from the fusebox (just to clean up the battery area) , but thats on the low priority list. Rick, I agree on the inverting thing, when a company says don't do this, they generally have a reason, especially with a device thats as "simple" as a battery. I'll be running a longer cable to the starter I just have to go out and get one. The negative cable has no tension at all, the positive is bent slightly, but again, no tension. I took it out for a test ride, started okay in 20 degree (F) weather, seemed to work fine. Matt waiting for a 40 degree day | ||
| Rick_a |
99X1...That must be it, then...the warning must mean just not to use fully inverted. If I remember correctly the statement was only in fine print on the battery and not in the literature. | ||
| Rick_a |
cut edited by rick_a on December 03, 2003 |
