| Author | Message | ||
     Kodas |
Monsta - not sure where the BAS is on an x1 but on a S3 its under the tail section near the ECM and battery. You'll need to remove the seat and tail section to see it. Looks a bit like a relay but will rattle if you tap it hard. 99x1 helped me when my BAS went bad. If its bad and you disconnect it you'll get an error light but the bike will start! Some other possible causes: Ignition fuse, Ignition relay is bad. Fuel pump connector loose or dirty contacts (this happened on my bike. A thorough cleaning and a tight tie wrap around connector was dealer solution), bad clutch or neutral switch and everyone's favorite, a bad side stand switch. | ||
| Monsta |
Well I am going to give this a try tommarow guys, I am pretty sure its either the BAS, or the fuel pump/fuel pump wiring, cause it will start off starting fluid, just has no fuel, wish me luck, I will ley ya know what I find. Jesse | ||
| Shotgun |
2001 M2, 16000 miles, running great, except I notice my tach going goofy, jumping even tho the engine speed stays steady and constant. Then I notice the speedometer does it sometimes too. Especially right at cruising speed, like 3200 RPM in 4th or 5th. What's it leading to? Speedo sensor failure? | ||
| Kodas |
Shotgun - A guess would be a bad connection in the instrument connector. On the S3 connector 39 shares the connections for the speedo and tach. It maybe be the same on an X1. I've had the speedo sensor go south with no adverse operation of the tach. But an intermittent connection on the BK wire (terminal c of connector 65) of the speedo sensor may cause a problem like you described. Same for pins 9 & 10 of the instrument connector BK wires connect to the speedo sensor BK at S20. Again this is referring to an S3 wiring diagram. Do both gauges fail at the same time? Also, when my speedo sensor was going it seemed to be heat related I could ride the bike until warmed up and then the sensor would fail. Let the bike cool the sensor was happy again... New sensor $51.00 edited by kodas on September 06, 2003 | ||
| Kinger |
In the process of troubleshooting an electrical short, I either found or created a problem. Not sure yet. Wiring bundle likely got pinched between S3(2000) fairing bracket and the handlebars. It put a slice in the protective coating and while trying to cut back the coating to look at the condition of the wire I may have cut the Black/Red wire (or this was the problem to begin with). My question is; splice using a connector and crimping tool or get a new piece of wire to solder to the existing and reroute to the switch? History: Bike began cutting out on a trip in july. Got bad enough that it wouldn't stay running. ECM has no codes. Brought bike home in a truck.  No problems since until I got caught in the rain last week during the 100th. The bike cut out all the way home. Trouble continued the next morning. Kept jiggling wiring bundle, trouble stopped. So I am thinking that I have a loose connection or crimped wire in my ignition circuit. I am also going to check the side stand switch connection (probably just bypass it). Thanks for any help. | ||
| Monsta |
Alright, I had no luck this weekend at all, still can not get the X1 started, and running, it will run off starting fluid jsut is not getting any gas! Ran fine the other day, then a friend of mine took it in to change out the battery to his shop(I work 6 days a week and only have sunday off, so that doesnt leave me with enough spare time to do it myself), well he said when changing the battery he his the 02 with the wrench and the positive and of course it made sparks, but after he put a new battery in, he could not get it back to fire, and that is where this leaves me, anyone have any suggestions??? I have already checked spark, and I am getting spark, bike will start off starting fluid, I have bypasssed the BAS, and it sounds like the fuel pump is kicking, it used to make a high pitch sound with the ignition was turned on, now it just kinda makes a low growling noise then stops( I assume it only pressureizes the tank?). Could it be the fuel filter?? Soneone please help.... Jesse | ||
| 99x1 |
"...just kinda makes a low growling noise then stops" Yes, it runs until the pressure builds. I would guess the ECM has an internal section burnt up from the arcing to the O2 sensor - the fuel pump and/or injectors probably aren't being told to turn on. Maybe try unplugging the O2 sensor to ensure you get a fault code. BTW, always remove the negative battery terminal first (and replace it last), so the wrench won't arc to the chassis when you work on the battery positive terminal.... | ||
| Monsta |
Let me try that, know anyone who has a stock x1 ecu i can try, or maybe even buy, I wish I would have never let the guy touch the thing, at least he admited to what happened, let hope this fixs it. Jesse | ||
| 98s3ter |
Hello, I hope that someone can help me with a problem. My buell will idle and run fine until I put a load on the motor. It turns off as soon as I put the bike in gear and try to accelerate. The motor cuts out like its out of gas.(it has plenty of fuel) If anyone has experienced these symptoms please post what they have done to remedy this problem. Thanks in advance for your help. | ||
| Aaron |
Kickstand switch. It won't let the motor run with the clutch out and the bike in gear. | ||
| 99x1 |
I don't know about the '98 S3, but on my '99 X1 - there is an easy way to bypass the sidestand switch. Just make a jumper that plugs into one side of the diode on the fuse panel, and connects to chassis ground on the other. The same jumper could also be used to bypass the neutral or clutch switch.  | ||
| 98s3ter |
I don't think its the the side stand switch it was fixed with the recall. Thanks | ||
| 98s3ter |
It acts like it is starved for fuel. I didn't know where to post this problem so I started here. | ||
| Kodas |
Often times the sidestand switch is still functional. It could be the connectors for the switch, which get dirty with oil and road grime. Detach the connector, inspect and give the leads a thorough cleaning. Test the switch with an ohm meter. On my S3 the sidestand connector was poorly routed below and somewhat near the oil drain plug where it was easily fouled during a simple oil change. This isn't by caused drain spillage but by spilling oil when filling the bike with new oil. It drips down on to the connector. I have since repositioned it up out of harms way... edited by kodas on September 08, 2003 | ||
| Kodas |
New components tend to fail quickly if they fail at all.. edited by kodas on September 08, 2003 | ||
| Kodas |
98s3ter - go ahead and test the sidestand switch. Can't hurt to check it. Takes about less than five minutes and you don't need to tear anything else apart to do it. If it tests out bad, bypass it, as per 99x1 instructions, and see if the bike still quits. This switch has got to be one the most common failures or at least its the most commonly referred item on the forum!  | ||
| Hootowl |
If it is behaving as if it is starved for fuel, then you're right, probably not the switch. If it just cuts out for a second, it could still very easily be the switch. I had to have my recall-replaced switch replaced once. Things go bad. It happens. | ||
| 98s3ter |
Thanks, the sidestand switch was the culprit. I really appreciate your assistance. You guys(Kooda and Hootowl)are great. I can't find a good part number for the switch. 50181-96Y is obsolete does any one know the new part number that was in the recall kit. Thanks again | ||
| Shotgun |
I posted the other day that my tach was jumping and my speedo too. Engine seemed to be smooth. Somebody suggested looking for a loose connection. Tonite, when turning the ignition on, it comes on weak, try to start and all sign of ignition (oil lite, neutral, etc) disappear. I checked battery and it is good. Looks like the ignition switch. Any ideas how to check if that is the culprit? It was probably going bad and acting like a short when the tach and speedo were jumping. | ||
| Kodas |
Hard to tell what you mean by "comes on weak." When my ignition switch went bad I could usually wiggle and jiggle the thing (rock the key on and off) into cooperating for a time. On an S3 the connector for the ignition switch is buried inside the headlight frame just behind the light. You might want to check the resistance of the switch using this connector at terminal A and C for ignition (B is park, I think). Its a sealed switch so you can't easily check it at back of the key unit. As a guess, its sounds like a bad or loose battery connection has worked its way into the mix. Good Hunting! | ||
| Kodas |
On the subject of the ignition key. It seems to be an item that fails often. When I was visiting the shop to pickup a replacement, two other bikes were in for the same thing. Judging from the circuit diagram the thing is working pretty hard. Looks like it runs the lights, etc. Asking a lot from a switch that's constantly used. Has anyone designed a circuit to lighten its load? 99X1 have you considered this? Or is it really unnecessary? | ||
| Monsta |
Hey Guys.... Well I went and worked on the bike for the whole day, and I GOT IT RUNNING!!!!! I guess the problem was the wires in the back of the fuse block were loose, since I took the rear subframe off and powdercoated it, when I put it back together I guess maybe one of them came loose?!?!?! Anyhow I was jsut testing everything out and I wiggled it around, then went to test and see it I had spark on both cyl, so I removed the first plug and it looked a litte rich, so I figured I would plug it into the boot and ground it out and see if i get spark when I crank it over(rememeber it also helps to unplug the rear spark plug boot when trying this, I forgot to remove the rear one so as soon as i hit the start button, looking down at the spark plug in the boot, blam it cranks and the front cyl sprays gas all in my face, after I turn off the bike and finsh cusing and washing my eyes out, I put the front plug in and fire it up, runs fine!!!!! WOOHOO!!!!!! Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!! Jesse | ||
| Shotgun |
Problem solved. First symtoms were bouncing tach and speedo. Then no start though headlite and panel lites came on ok. Cheap multimeter not accurate enough to check exact battery voltage but it was over 12V. Ignition checked out fine. Put the new battery in and all problems solved. | ||
| Mr_bill |
Also on the subject of the ignition switch... I recently had mine fail (2000 S3). In my case, the problem was that it would no longer rotate to the on position. It would go about halfway into the park position, then lock tight. After calling my local dealer and finding the price on this ($142), I decided to try to fix it. I removed the rivets from the back with a small drill bit, then dissassembled it. This is what I discovered... The inside is 80% plastic. There is a spring that pushes the contactor up so that it basically joins all three wire contacts together. The spring pressure is rather high, surpisingly, and over time, it pushed the rotating contactor into the plastic BEFORE it would reach the second (on) position. Since it had dug into the plastic, no amount of force could turn the key on. Being a mechanical kind of guy I figured I might be able to fix this. I gave a SMALL bend to the leading edge of the contactor, an reassembled it. Unfortunately, I bent it a little too much and used a very permanent type of rivet to put it back together. If you try this, use a multimeter to check BEFORE you put the rivets in!! On the good side, I saw no signs of excessive current on any of the internal parts, so I'm inclined to believe the circut is not overloaded. Well, hopefully my experience will help someone... Anybody got a spare switch for sale? Bill Phoenix | ||
| Kodas |
I couldn't find the receipt for the replacement ignition switch set for my 1999 S3 but I think the matched set (locks for seat, bags, steering & ignition coded to the original keys) was less than your quote. My dealer was also willing to sell just a single replacement ignition switch at substantially less. Trouble is then you have to carry around two keys. Let me dig around and see if I can't find that receipt... edited by kodas on September 14, 2003 | ||
| 99x1 |
I also drilled my key switch apart after it failed, the (very) soft copper contact band that rotates onto the contacts had broken where the tab fits in the plastic. The dealer gave me a quote of $210 for the lock set. I purchased an NKK CKL12BTW01 tubular keylock switch ($16.89) from Digikey , and used a Bosch horn relay (with the switch pulling in the relay coil by grounding the relay coil to the ground terminal of the turn signal). It only has Off-ON (no park), but a Bosch relay and socket can be purchased most anywhere for <$10. Any key switch with a 19mm hole mount should work.It has worked well for ~1 year now, and the tubular style key looks stock. Don't use a chassis ground to the triple clamp, as current flowing through the steering head bearings can cause pitting.  . edited by 99X1 on September 14, 2003 | ||
| Kodas |
99X1 - I like the idea of the Bosch relay. Would you recommend such an addition on a stock switch circuit? The switch failures mentioned seem to be plastic or metal fatigue related rather than the excessive current I surmised. Never disassembled mine...Still shocked by the cost of a new set! I do remember being plenty aggravated by the cost of the replacement set, but $210 would have certainly left me with a stroke. | ||
| Essjay |
I am having a problem which seems to be getting worse. '99SS3T is the bike with the race module and V&H exhaust and force air intake. The engine will not run smoothly until it is hot. Until then it misses and sometimes shudders. I am guessing that it may be the sensor screwed into the exhaust header? essjay | ||
| Kodas |
Sounds like the 02 (Oxygen) sensor (the one screwed to the exhaust header) or the ET (Engine Temp, near the spark plug on rear cylinder head) sensor could be failing. Are you getting an ECM error code of 13 (O2) or 14 (ET)? | ||
| Kodas |
99x1 has some good diagnostics for the 02 sensor in the August 02 Archive (Engine - Carburetion, Fuel Injection and Fuel Delivery » Archive through August 02, 2003) edited by kodas on September 23, 2003 |
