| Author | Message | ||
     Quentinludwig |
First off, I have a 2000 M2 and am blowing tranny fluid out the vent onto the rear tire and brake during long rides. I have found this to be a common problem with this bike. I am 99% sure that this is the problem, and want to fix it myself. Yes I have checked fluid level and all the other breather hoses for blockages. (There is also a good amount of engine oil in the primary case.) I have found tons of information on this problem but no step by step walkthroughs. Can anyone give me a link to a walkthrough? I would love pictures to help out. Thanks for anyones help. | ||
| Tim |
If you want to do this, you really should buy or borrow a service manual for your bike. An alternative is the on-line service manual for the S1 in the knowledge vault. There may have been a few changes between 96 & 00, but I don't think they affected the disassembly or reassembly of the motor needed to effect this repair. Do a search for crank seal in the knowledge vault. This repair has been thoroughly discussed in the past. I don't know of a specific post that has documented the entire process, but it may be there. Briefly, you are going to have to remove the entire primary drive(big sockets & locking bar needed, watch for left hand threads), pick out the bad seal around the crankshaft(after 50,000 miles, mine was so brittle it came out in little pieces), press the new seal in to the proper depth (special tool or a reasonable facsimile)and reassamble(some big torque values required) Good Reading and Have Fun! | ||
| Quentinludwig |
That's basically what I needed. Thank you. I do have factory manual but it is not the greatest. I could not find anything about removal of primary drive. Maybe I just missed it in there. Thanks for the help though. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Its buried in the manual in non obvious places... It does sound like a seal, did the same thing on my 00 M2. Don't seat that seal deep enough that it touches the bearings underneath, or they will cut through the new seal in about 3000 miles (DAMHIK).  | ||
| Blake |
Quentin, The Primary Drive/Clutch removal instructions start on page 6-10 of my '97/'98 Cyclone service manual. Note that you don't need to remove/disassemble the individual clutch parts, just the clutch basket and plate assembly s as a whole. | ||
| Quentinludwig |
Thank you all for input. I'm gonna tackle it this weekend. I did find primary drive/clutch removal on page 6-something. I was looking in the wrong place in my manual before. I'll update after operation. | ||
| Blake |
Take lots of photos! ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Quentinludwig |
Ok did it! I'll do my best to guide the next person through this. Tools you will need: Allen wrenches, Torque wrench, 1 1/8 inch socket, 1 3/16 socket? (socket size between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4) I used 1 1/4 which worked but was too large, Standard ratchet and socket set, gear locker (or substitute), oil seal seater (or fashion an equivalent), new oil seal, red lock tight, new gaskets. I think that covers it. But be sure to have a good tool kit handy in case I'm wrong. Step 1: Drop exhaust, drain tranny fluid and loosen primary chain bolt all the way.  Step 2: Remove all parts of shifter assembly and silver clutch cover. (Be wary of the spring inside). Loosen all bolts equally if possible.  Step 3: Unscrew (with small flathead CLOCKWISE) center bolt that holds clutch cable pieces, then unhinge clutch cable assembly.   Step 4: Remove all bolts that hold primary cover on. Remember that you will have to work the primary chain over the chain tensioner for the cover to come off. Try and reach underneath between the casing to lift primary chain as you remove the primary case. Also make sure that you have the updated stronger version of the primary chain tensioner.  Step 5: Unscrew nuts that hold engine sprocket and clutch pack. Remember that the clutch pack assembly bolt is unscrewed clockwise. Remove both of these units and primary chain as a whole.  Step 6: Remove old oil seal and spacer around crank shaft by whatever means you can without damaging any surrounding metal. Be creative!  To be continued when I have more time... | ||
| Blake |
Outstanding so far Quentin! Thank you. We'll be looking forward to the conclusion. | ||
| Quentinludwig |
Ok, on to Step 7: Time to put the new oil seal in. I could only find the old style with metal on it. But it seems to work fine. Most people suggest to use either the appropriate oil seal seating tool or a piece of 1 1/2 inch copper pipe that is cut to make it wider. What I used seemed to work perfect. (Keep in mind that I am not an expert!) I just used 1 1/2 inch Galvanized steel pipe because it has a slightly wider diameter. (I know that seems to not make sense but it is true.) This way I did not have to have any sharp edges from the pipe. It fits perfectly with no alterations. I seated my oil seal in to where the metal ring is flush with the outer edges of the casing. Again be creative and don't seat your seal in too deep...or else you will end up replacing it soon...again. The picture above is actually after I seated my new seal. Step 8: Use steps 1-7 to put parts back on in reverse order. (Please use common sense!) Notes: Torque specs: -Engine Sprocket: 210 ft/lbs -Clutch Pack: 70 ft/lbs -Primary case bolts: 5-7 ft/lbs Please double check with book but keep in mind that there are updated specs with the engine sprocket. - Also, when putting primary case back on, lift primary chain up while installing so that the tensioner does not get caught. It took me a long time to figure out why my case would not go back on. - Make sure that shifter shaft seal is seated properly or else it will leak. Guess how I know! If anyone has questions please feel free to PM me or just reply to this. I will answer to the best of my ability. This method worked very well for me. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks again Quentin. | ||
| Quentinludwig |
No problem. Thank you all for helping me figure out this problem and many others. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Quentin, Nice write up, however I do have a question for you. You mentioned that you used the old style seal. So you replaced the old one with the old style single lip seal? If that's the case, you will most likley have to replace it again in a couple of years. The new double lip seal lasts MUCH longer. I've got well over 25,000 miles on one of mine. Just a point of reference for you. Again nice write up, it should help lots of folks. One more thing, the Kent-Moore installation tool is cheap and works like a charm. You cannot seat the new seal too deep with the tool. The HD part number for the tool is HD-45206. Brad | ||
| Quentinludwig |
You are correct about the new seal being far better. I was just interested in getting the part asap. The old style was the only one that the local dealer had in stock. Under Ideal circumstances...People should use correct tools for the job also. If you can get your hands on the tool you should use it. Thank you for your input. Every little bit helps. | ||
| Sneekyfast |
Subscribed as I now have to do this to my '00 M2 | ||
| Buellistic |
For "SAFETY" the TRANSMISSION BREATHER HOSE should be run to a catch container !!! "WHY DO YOU ASK !!!", Well you never know when this OIL SEAL will go BAD and when you get OIL on your REAR TIRE you will understand why !!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
I'll tag my question onto this thread. I have oil puking out of the tranny breather at high rpm/load. I assume its the crankseal, which I replaced not long ago. Granted, I probably installed it poorly if its shot again, perhaps too deep. But my question: why is my tranny oil still at the proper level? I expected if the seal was gone that the tranny would be filled to the top before it would puke. | ||
| Blake |
If there is any moisture in the primary and/or transmission, it can flash to steam if the temperatures get high enough. The steam can cause oil to get pushed out the vent line. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thanks Blake. I'll drain and refill and see what happens. | ||
| Harleyelf |
When it pukes because of the crank seal, the vomit will smell like engine oil. If you have the correct level of clean primary oil, the seal is all right. I never add an entire quart when changing primary oil on the assumption that a few ounces are hiding in the transmission. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thanks, also, Elf. Stalled out for a few days before I can look at this. I read some posts on other threads of people draining several quarts from the tranny while one post said normal level was possible. As I think about it, the tranny oil level would be self-adjusting by ejecting even a little bit of overfill. That suggests that those who find the tranny full must have a BAD seal leak, while a small leak could be ejected at the same rate as it enters. I'll try the sniff test but have an almost non-existent sense of smell. I did see white foam, indicating water in the oil, when I checked the level. I assumed it would evaporate off. I have so many other motorcycle projects, this is being a distraction. First option is to fit a catch-can and keep the revs down if I need to ride it in the next week or two. |
