Author |
Message |
Awgrimm
| Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 07:42 pm: |
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I am trying to upgrade to the new-style chain tensioner, and after draining, etc, find that I can't even get the clutch cover off the bike! Does anyone know what size torx the bolts that hold the cover on are? The closest I have is a torx-25, and it seemed a little loose (do they even make like torx-26, or whatever?) I would hate to round them out! Other than that, any suggestions on getting them damn bolts off? I read how easy the tensioner replacement was, and I would hate to screw it up before I even really get started. Thanks- Brad |
Doncasto
| Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 07:50 pm: |
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Brad: You are looking at T-27 torx screws. Some chose to switch them to Allen screws rather than having to find the always ellusive T-27. I found mine at NAPA. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 09:55 pm: |
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I stripped out three sets of those things, and I was using the correct tool. There's allen bolts in there now. If all else fails, drill the heads off. Once the pressure is off the threads, they'll come right out. I had to do that twice. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 12:30 am: |
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Brad, Listen to Don and Jeff, the torx suck. I had to replace mine the first time I drained the trany. I used stainless steel allen head's from the local hardware store. Less than $2 and no more headache. I too had to drill a couple of mine out. Just go slow with a new or known sharp drill bit. Just need to remove the head of the torx screws. Brad |
Hans
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 02:12 am: |
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Brad, New and sharp T27 torx head. Press hard to keep the head in the screw, while turning. I did use one hand to press, the other to turn the wrench, which was fixed on the screwdriver. The screw does not "pop" loose but comes out slowly, with less effort when the process proceeds. When loose, re torque again before you start on the next. Hans |
Steveford
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 10:15 am: |
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An impact driver works well on the Torx screws. Push the driver down until it's ready to turn counterclockwise and then give the driver a sharp "bop" with a hammer, not a "smash" with the bigger hammer as you're dealing with an aluminum casting. A tiny amount of Purple Loctite on the threads works well during installation. |
Aaron
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 10:35 am: |
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Never push a fastener to loosen it, always strike it. |
Josh_
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 10:38 am: |
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Air or electric impact and a new T-27 makes all the difference. I had to drill one out of my Sportster and another out of my S3 before I finally got a compressor. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 11:27 am: |
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What Hans said bears repeating. Once you've loosened the first one, lightly snug it (but don't torque it) back down, then do the others the same way. The problem with this cover is that once you've loosened two of them, the "O-ring" flexes the cover and binds the other two screws. Doing the above makes a huge difference. But do replace those damned things with Allen heads afterwards, those torx bolts suck. Al |
Awgrimm
| Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 01:41 pm: |
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All good advice. Thanks to all. Its actually kind of comforting to know that I'm not alone in dealing with this. -Brad |
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