| Author | Message | ||
     Tonyinvabeach |
I have a 2000 M2 Cyclone that is box stock. It has over 80k on it with the original engine. Here lately, the bike is cutting out. It seems to get worse when the bike is hot. Here are the symptoms: - Both cylinders cut out. - Take bounces around well above 5K when it happens most of the time. - Backfires sometimes when ignition kicks back in. This has happened in the past, and was fixed under warranty. But, they replaced the cam positon sensor, coil and ignition module along with the tac, so I'm not sure what fixed it. I'm thinking cam position sensor (seems to get worse with hot engine), but open to what you guys think. I believe the tac runs off the coil trigger pulse so maybe that is it as well. Tony | ||
| Joesbuell |
Sounds like the side stand switch to me! does it come good when you pull the clutch in? | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Pulling in the clutch is no help. I just duplicated it in the workshop after running and idling the bike for 15 minutes. It surged, cut in and out and then died. I think I'm going to try a cam sensor. I read out the coil after it died and both the primary and secondary resistances were fine. Anyone know of a check for the cam position sensor or ignition module - at $38 and $95 respectively, I'd hate to just start banging in new parts. | ||
| Blake |
I had a cam sensor go at the track once, but it just went kaput all at once, no intermediate symptoms. It looked all melty; how's that for a technical term, lol. You might take a look at yours and see if there is any evidence of deterioration before buying a new one. I think there is a test you can do to check the sensor integrity too, but I guess if the problem is intermittent, that may not be a sure thing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You could probably watch it if you had an oscilloscope... And the voltage is probably in a friendly range for one of those cheap $100 handheld LCD models, FWIW. I don't know why somebody isn't making cheaper and more capable versions of those things yet... the technology is there. Make one that is less accurate (I don't really care if it's 15% off) but make it pretty flexible (able to measure 100V or .01V signals from DC to 1 MHZ). | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Ordered a cam position sensor and new cam seal...hopefully that will fix the problem. Anyone have any tips or pictures to make the job easier? Timing the thing by marking where the old one was seems odd...but I have to get smart of static and dynamic timing this type of motor. Tony | ||
| Blake |
The ignition module should have a light that comes on when the sensor activates/senses the trigger tab. Use that to static time to the same setting as you have now and you should be okay, if that is your old sensor is working okay enough for that. | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
I'll let you guys know how it goes once I get the parts in. Can I read the green trigger wire from the cam position wire with a multimeter to check current timing? The sensor runs the bike fine cold, so I figure it'll do this OK. I'll also try out the new digital camera and see if I can figure out how to load pics of the process....oh, like when the pigtail isn't long enough to connect to the wire harness...or when I drop rivet guts inside my motor!! heh heh Tony | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Update. Finally got the parts and put the new cam position sensor in and, other than having to rebuild the Duetsch connector which I didn't expect, it was fairly easy. I simply timed it where it was and it runs well enough for me. Now, here is a question. This is the second sensor in 80K miles that has failed due to heat. Is the location of the exhaust (right next to the cone) part of this problem or is this what the guys on Sportsters are seeing as well? Seems to me the sensor is being baked and that is why I have gone through two of them so far. Tony | ||
| Blake |
That's an interesting observation about the exhaust headers being in close proximity to the sensor housing. Last/only sensor I had fail was at the track on a warm Texas day, just prior to when I had wrapped the headers. You may be on to something. If so, you might try polishing the header surfaces near the housing or wrapping the headers. Polishing might reduce the radiant heat emitted by the headers. | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
I've been wanting to wrap the headers just to save myself some pain in the summer but I have limited time and all that is consumed keeping two bikes, a 1950 8N Ford tractor, ATV, etc...running...heh heh Maybe this year!! |
