| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Rick... Welded the bezel? Yikes! I would look where Hootowl suggested first. Then maybe make sure something *else* is not running a voltage to the bezel, maybe the tach was just the local path to ground, not the source of the current. The source of the current could be some other part of the front end. Headlight? Indicators? Speedo? Speedo Lamps? Turn signals? Tripmeter reset? | ||
| Rick_a |
Thanks for the suggestions. It doesn't have a speedo sensor. I already tried the disconnect and check thing. I checked all the wiring up front, too, and that was all fine. An electrical engineer told me it's probably the primary coil winding shorted out. Seems to me that'd be the most likely culprit. I'll find out soon. in the meantime I HATE DRIVING!  | ||
| Caboose |
So....no starter in stock. I've got a three week wait till one comes from the states. Not wanting to wait that long, we cleaned up the original starter assembly and put it back on the bike. It will turn the bike over very slowly, not enough to fire-up the bike. I kinda figured as much. The armature windings were a mess. I'll have to break out my BRAG map book and start calling area dealers to see if they have one in stock. Part number 31390-91C. Damn. | ||
| Kahuna |
well ... i really hope you can find something before the 11th. it'll be nice to see you at cayuga, the forcast is calling for bright sunshine and 20 degrees  K edited by kahuna on June 03, 2003 | ||
| Jayzen |
Brake lights don't work...Please Help! I have a '99 X-1 and the brake lights don't work when I apply the rear brake. They work fine for the front brake. | ||
| Road_thing |
Caboose: Run & Bump, dude...these bikes are light! Jayzen: Check the wires on the rear brake switch, back near the master cylinder. r-t  thanks, Blake, I missed the flag! | ||
| 99x1 |
".. brake lights don't work when I apply the rear brake" The wire from the brake lamp goes to one side of the rear brake switch, then continues on to the front brake switch (the two red wires on the one terminal of the rear brake switch). The orange wire on the other switch terminal is the positive feed to the rear switch. Since it works from the front switch (thus wire from rear switch to lamp is OK), either the rear switch is bad (pull the wires off the switch and jumper them together), or the orange wire is broken. (The power feeding the orange wire is OK, because it also feeds the turn signal flasher). Good Luck; John | ||
| Blake |
Try spraying a good blast of contact cleaner into the rear switch. | ||
| Ccryder |
Caboose Try takeing your starter to a car starter rebuild shop. I had my S-1 starter rebuilt last winter by a local car shop that specialies in staters and alternators. They said some cars use the same type of starters that HD does.They use a lot of the same parts. My rebuild bill with new armature was 60.00. Worth a try! Mark | ||
| 99x1 |
I would be surprised if oil contamination could kill a starter - the brushes might absorb it and not work correctly (oil is an insulator). The potting compound used on the windings commonly sees bearing grease and brush dust. For the cost, it certainly would be worth trying to fix. The solenoid contact plate could also be contaminated. I think there are aftermarket rebuild kits available for Harley starters (Accel?), but as others have advised, most auto starter shops can make up brushes and contact plates. | ||
| Caboose |
We tried rebuilding the starter, couldn't find all the goodies to make it go. Apparently older Sporter starters were easier to rebuild but the parts are not completely compatible with new Buell starters. The Buell starters need more windings etc to crank the higher compression engines??? Anyway, a new starter costs just about $700, luckly I found a used one off a 99 X1 for $450. Clare's H-D steered me away from aftermarker starters saying that they are cheaper but much less reliable. I should have my bike back Friday afternoon.....phew! I'd also like to mention that Clare's was willing to give me a loaner bike (a slightly tweaked M2)while my X1 was down. Thank's Clare's your a stand-up shop! | ||
| Rick_a |
My bike is still down. Haven't had a chance to look into it much...my only days off this week were rainy ones...and I'm not about to start rippin' into this stuff in the wet. I did have time to check the coil...it's perfect. | ||
| Ptown |
Need Help. Since last November my bike (X1 2000) model comes up with the probleme that when I start the bike the little blue light on the dash indicating high beam stays on for a long period of time. In terms of miles for up till 10 miles before it goes out. This I was told could mean a faulty battery. I have changes the battery but the problem still occurs. Anyone with same problem or what is the remedy. thankyou Eugene | ||
| 99x1 |
Your high beam indicator being on could not be caused by a faulty battery - the dash indicator is connected to the headlamp high beam filament. Is the dash lamp on full brightness? (It may be getting power through the headlamp filament if the ground or feed opens). Pulling the fuses out one at a time to see what circuit is feeding it may help. (Lights fuse feeds lights, Acc. fuse feeds park lamp, ignition fuse feeds ignition, Memory feeds the trip meter). Disconnect left switch gear, or headlamp connector, or park lamp wires, until source is found. Don't go back to the person who told you to change the battery.... Good Luck | ||
| Rick_a |
My Buell will be back on the road soon. My tach and battery are toast...I'll be checking the ignition module out tomarrow. I also found that the starter solenoid is pretty fried and the regulator is near death. I went through the bike thoroughly and everything else is peachy. This weekend I'll be sourcing all the parts. I need to ride again, cars are dangerous! | ||
| Blake |
Dude, You got struck by lightning and didn't even know it. LOL! | ||
| Darthane |
Some cop got him with a prototype EMP gun. | ||
| Rick_a |
Yeah...it's pretty disheartening. I found a sweet graphic tach from Dakota Digital with programmable shift point indication and I'm gonna fab me a custom carbon fiber dash to house it. It's all good.  I thought four wheels would handle inclement weather better...proved myself wrong spinning the truck yesterday! | ||
| Blake |
Gotta like a guy with a positive attitude.  | ||
| Oz666 |
I am trying to determine the cause of a "no charge" situation. I need to confirm some assumptions that I made before I purchase parts. First. I have run all the tests in the service manual with the exception of the "Total Current Draw" and "Current and Voltage Output" tests. According to the results of the other tests, everything is fine. I also cleaned the battery terminals and checked the path from the voltage regulator output connection back to the hot side of the battery for continuity. It does not say specifically in the manual but, by the values that one is asked to test for, I am assuming that. 1. The alternator produces unregulated and varying frequency AC in the 30-60 Volt range and 2. The voltage regulator is actually a full wave bridge rectifier AND voltage regulator. Since all the tests were good and I am getting ~42volts AC from the alternator (which would rectify to ~21 Volts DC with ripple) My assumption is that I have one open Diode on the rectifier bridge in the voltage regulator. This would result in pulsing DC with ~30% duty factor and cut total alternator output by the same amount. That fits with what I am measuring and observing. Any thoughts? Did I miss something? Thanks.  Oz | ||
| Blake |
Is the alternator output single phase? If you have determined that the charging system is working, I'd be looking for a short somewhere, maybe a wired that has rubbed through and is shorting to ground. Are you darn sure the battery is okay? Blake (not electrically inclined) | ||
| Oz666 |
Hi Blake, One of the assumptions I made is that the alternator output is single phase, actually it must be as it is two wire (the round connector - P17 in the manual) The battery will start and run the bike just fine when charged but goes dead with time as does a replacement battery. With voltage output in the correct range from the stator (the manual is not specific) leads and, if I am correct and H-D used the simplest conditioning method (full wave bridge into a zener diode at the system voltage set point - the diode runs any voltage above its pass point to ground) a broken (open) diode in the full wave bridge would theoretically cut the output in half (a half wave bridge). In practice, a bit less than half output. In order for this to be caused by a shorted (grounded) wire, the drain on the system by the short would have to be greater than the alternator output (19-23 amps) but less than the 30 amp main breaker - less the normal running load (3 amps for ignition, and in my case ~12 amps for lighting) thats between 5 and 15 amps, a narrow range for an uncontrolled condition like a grounded wire. (all values from manual or calculations) Oz looking for confirmation BEFORE throwing $$ | ||
| Oz666 |
I did not have the equipment to do the "Total Current Draw" and "Current and Voltage Output" tests. My guess is these would fail. It is almost definitely a charging prob. (12.31 v at the battery @ 2500 RPM - no specs in the manual - could someone throw a voltmeter on their battery terminals and tell me volts @ 1000 RPM & volts @ 2000 or 2500? That would do it, I think) Thanx, Oz | ||
| Blake |
Did you look on page 7-1?... My manual states alternator output as being 19-26 VAC per 1000 engine rpm. Regulator output at 75oF: 13.8-15 VDC, 22 Amps @ 3600 RPM Those are values from a '97/'98 Cyclone Service Manual. | ||
| Oz666 |
Andy at American Thunder Buell confirms bad regulator. (Voltage at the battery should be just like a car... ~13 V at idle rising to 13.8-14 V at 2-3K RPM) Replacement (oddball, I think - `98 specific) regulator IN STOCK! Covered under extended warranty & squeezed me in Wednesday. Thanx, Andy!!  I told him I would pay the deductible & install it myself but the insurance regs won't let him do that.   (Sigh) Limited to about a 30 minute radius from my battery charger, just like one of those little cars. Oz I saw the inside of a Sportster regulator (potted in clear material) and there is indeed a full wave bridge although the voltage regulation is a little more involved than just a Zener... | ||
| Oz666 |
Thanks Blake - I was typing as you were posting... I will copy that info into my manual. Oz | ||
| Oz666 |
Right next to where it's already printed on page 7-1  Oz | ||
| Blake |
Glad you found the problem. With your manual too.  | ||
| Rick_a |
Diodes can be easily checked with the diode test function of a multimeter... ...and my tach woes continue. I got my new digital tach today and it didn't work! They were supposed to be back ordered so it was kinda fishy that I got it within a weeks time...also the packaging had been re-wrapped. After spending hours making a new dash it really pissed me off.  ...and don't worry...I checked all my bike's wiring and it's all perfect edited by Rick_A on June 30, 2003 | ||
| Ron |
Hit by second deer in 3 years. Recall someone on the list once saying that turn signal units for the S-3/T were available from JC Whitney or Kirk or ? I don't want to pay H-D price again. Anyone recall this information? I did a search and could not come up with it. Evidently the Buell turn signal units are a universal item available from other sources than H-D and for far less $$. Sure would appreciate knowing where from. Thanks Ron |
