| Author | Message | ||
     Shaiss |
I'm not 100% on the names of each part so to avoid confusion I'll reference the # in the below diagram taken from my 05 xbr parts catalog.  A while back I took my bike to a local shop to get new clutch plates put in. They recomended going with barnet, so I said ok, and not knowing what I said ok too got myself in a heaping mess. So over the last year or so I've always had bits of issues with my clutch, so I figured I'll rebuild the entire clutch pack to Buell specs with Buell parts. So I went and bought the following brand new from Skip Force Corona Buell: Friction plates #29 Steal Plates #30 Narrow Friction Plate #24 Damper Spring Seat #22 Damper Spring #21 I installed the above exactly as the manual says, and I'm 100% sure on that. I even got the part about the damper spring (#21) concave side being a specific way. Now I goto to put on my clutch spring along with pressure plate. The next step is to insert the spring inner seat (#16) followed by the retaining ring (#28). Here is my problem, the manual says to tighten the clutch compression tool (mine is the one from American Sport Bike about $50) just enough so that the retaining ring slides over the teeth in the clutch spring (#31) and holds the clutch spring (#31) in place. my problem is no matter how much I tighten the tool, the clutch spring (#31) doesn't compress enough to allow the retaining ring to fit over it's teeth. As you'll see in the pictures below, I need maybe another 1.5mm and it'll fit. I remember the shop saying that they had to change the clutch spring (#31) to an aftermarket part thats thicker because the stock didn't work with the barnett plates. I mesured the clutch spring and its 8.1mm when placed on aflat surface from the surface to the top of an inside tooth. They also said they removed the Damper Spring and Damper Spring Seat. So heres the solutions I can think of. #1 - install the 05 XB12R clutch spring that I think is 7.4mm (sounds like the best solution to me) #2 - install the 08 XB12R clutch spring that I think is 8.2mm (but thats thiker then what I have now so I think this is a no no) #3 - remove a friction and steel plate (but then I think I'll get slipage cause there will be too much room in the clutch pack. #4 - Remove the damper spring and damper spring seat (again, seems like a temporary fix) So anyone here have any suggestions? Any ideas what I should do. Am I doing something wrong? I just want to have my clutch working with no mickey mouse half ass fixes that "kind of work". btw. I should mention that when you put the diaphragm and the backing on as pictured in the picture being held by my finger it is a dam tight fit and there is absolutely 0 space for movement. The plates are mushed against each-other witch seems way too tight. And yes, I'm aware of the nut on the adjustment screw. thats my indicator for when I use the tool that the adjustment screw is turing into the tool. This has no effect on the tool of the diaphragm. If it helps anyone, I have these images and can take more in 10mgpx with our SLR and post them somewhere, so just let me know.       (Message edited by shaiss on January 15, 2008) | ||
| Sparky |
How many friction and steel plates are you trying to install? What bike & year is it? | ||
| Shaiss |
Thanks sparky, I probably should have mentioned that. Its an 05 XB12R # of plates is stock setup. 1 narrow friction 7 friction 7 steel and the damper spring and damper spring seat | ||
| Bombardier |
Are the clutch plates clearing the inner hub? On one of the photos it looks like they are catching. Have tried trying each plate for clearance individually? Just a thought. | ||
| Shaiss |
What do you meen by clearing and catching? sorry i dont follow? They fit into the hub just fine, slide in and out easily. Anyhow, I kinda fixed the problem by taking out 1 friction and 1 steel plate. Problem solved. In the process of putting on the primary cover I kinked the gasket and ended riping it. so of I go to buy a new one  oh well | ||
| Sparky |
It might be useful to measure the height of the stack of all plates, damper spring & damper spring seat from the old set compared to the new set. Also the manual gives the useable service minimum thickness for the fiber and steel plates. You might check those and if the old ones are still good, keep them around in case you toast the current set. | ||
| Shaiss |
I'll do the measure thing. the old plates are toast. completely!!! lol | ||
| Wrench |
Alright, an update to this post here. I took the primary cover off and removed all the plates as well as the damper spring and seat. All the plates were in great condition. They were all brand new. With all the plates out, I shifted into first and spun the wheel by hand. Of course everything spun freely. I began re-installing the plates, making sure I put the damper spring and seat in the correct order. After I set them all in. I clicked the bike into first again, only this time it took a helluva lot more force to even begin to spin the rear wheel. Remember, the plates are in there loose, the pressure plate NOT installed yet, and the friction was so great that I couldn't spin the rear tire with only one hand. I took note, but didn't worry, seeing as the motor's torque and the weight of the bike plus rider would be more than enough to keep the bike still while the clutch is pulled in. I re-installed everything correctly and got to the point of doing the ball/ramp adjustment. The manual says to turn the adjuster screw CCW until it lightly seats, then back 1/2 to 3/4 turns. When I 'felt' it lightly seat, then turned it back out 1/2 turn, it was super sloppy and wouldn't even move the pressure plate. So, I began messing with it a bit more. What I ended up doing was turning the screw CCW until I first saw the pressure plate move. I then backed it off slightly, making extra sure that the plate was at full rest. From THAT point, I turned it 1/2 out and the whole mechanism seemed to work a lot better. This bike has a magura hydraulic clutch installed. We bled it out per the instruction sheet that came with it and re-installed it onto the bike. When actuating under full 'squeeze' the piston rod that connects to the ball ramp would only move about half the total distance. It did move the pressure plate, though not too far. Maybe 1/8 of an inch? Anyway, I fired up the bike, pulled in the clutch, and put it into gear, the rear tire started flying. Clutch still in, I put my foot on the back tire to see if I could slow/stop it, and it was under full power. Basically, the clutch never disengaged. My next move is to mess with the adjuster screw until the pressure plate is visibly off the clutch pack, this 'should' create a major slip, and I 'should' be able to slow/stop the rear tire with the clutch in. The way I see it, I have two problem areas; 1. The hydraulic clutch not fully pulling the ball/ramp and not allowing the clutch to disengage 2. The clutch pack, for some reason, is majorly sticking together, so much that the plates do not separate. Any more suggestions? | ||
| Shaiss |
Anyone have any ideas? We're still stumped as too whats going on | ||
| Ocbueller |
My Ducati has taught me you can't bleed a hydraulic clutch too much. Bleed at any and all points, banjo bolts, etc.. SteveH | ||
| Shaiss |
thanks Ocbueller. I'll give that a shot and post up an update |
