| Author | Message | ||
     Jayvee |
I got a couple of used pieces offn eBay, the TwinTek double coil, and a Dyna2000. Got them on my 2000 M2, and now my Kisan Signal Minder seems to have a mind of it's own. Starts signaling all by itself, even in four-way flasher mode, and alternating mode, which I didn't even know it had. Can't turn it off, makes me kind of nervous. Eventually it goes off, or lets me turn it off. I'm running the Buell factory Race spark plug wires, are these not 'acceptable'? The Dyna instructions say factory Harley wires should be good. Also my tach is registering sort of sluggish, for want of a better word. I don't think it's keeping up very well to the actual rpm. Do they all do this, or should I maybe solder my crimped connections? Or any other ideas? I had to run the tach wire from the ig. module to the tach. I cut the pink wire just about 3 inches downstream from a big black connector plug, and then used a bullet connector to plug in the new wire from the module to the female connector I crimped on to the stock pink wire. (Thinking I could go back to stock by just plugging in the original wire again, I crimped a bullet connector onto the original wire end, and then covered it with an 'empty' female one, just to cover the end.) When I did a test drive, it seemed to run ok, but it didn't seem as 'lively' as with my Race ignition module somehow. Running curve 4, with a stock motor, just a #46 Low jet, Airblow intake, stock exhaust. When they get back from Christmas vacation I guess maybe take it to the dyno at BRG Racing (it's near my office) and trying all 4 curves, maybe some other jets too. | ||
| Jayvee |
Well, I took off the Kisan, put back the stock flasher (I think) but the turn signals still don't work but once in a while at idle. I need my turn signals, guess I will try the dealer but I want to take the old ones, you can guess why. Also put in the 48 low jet, and feels much stronger. Also put on the the SuperTrapp IDS, and now it feels even more stronger. This is the first time it feels like I have to hold on. It really sings at 80mph indicated. Using all 12 discs. Might need a 200 main now though. Not that much louder than stock, with earplugs. | ||
| Bad_karma |
J.V. You might want to add some more disc should you prefer more top end power with a little more noise. Joe | ||
| Jayvee |
Actually I might take one disc out. I wish there was a formula for: 1 disc= X hp/torque = Y db | ||
| Jayvee |
Boy it's a lot harder than it sounds to find solid-core suppression wire to fit Buell, everything is "spiral-wound" or "spiro-wound" which the Dynatek site says to avoid. The local H-D dealer has nothing for Buells and wouldn't even look to see if any Sportster wires would work. They would make a special order if I wanted to try the universal kit from the H-D accessories catalog. Guess I have to order online after all. | ||
| Jayvee |
Ok, is there ANYBODY out there running the Dyna2000 single fire ignition, and your turn signals still work normally? What Spark Plug Wires are you running? I tried 3 different sets of plug wires, but my flashers don't work with any of them. I pretty much need the turn signals, even more than the single-fire ignition, but I hate to give it up just for that. Any suggestions? | ||
| Blake |
What the heck would the ignition system or spark plug wires have to do with the turn signals? They are on completely different circuits, no? Am I about to learn something?  | ||
| Jackbequick |
That it a little mysterious. I'm glad someone else noticed that. Do those turn signals cancel themselves or "time out" like the turn signals on Sportsters, Dynas, and the like? If so, they may be using ignition pulses or tach or speedo "ticks" for timing. The Dynas use a sensor that counts the gear teeth on a transmission gear for the speedo display and turn signal cancelling timing but I don't remember there being that kind of a sensor on the M2 I had. Jack | ||
| Mikej |
I'm thinking you have a phantom short someplace messing with a nearby circuit. If you still have the original module then plug it back in and see if the problem cures itself. If so then plug the Dyna2000 back in and see if the problem remains cured or if it returns. I'm going to guess you have some electrical gremlins running amok around the connectors on the module, or else you have a grounding problem with either or both the coil and/or turn signal circuit. Pull your gas tank and follow the harness very carefully along the frame heading to the front of the bike, especially focus on the coil and on the steering head areas. What is a Kisan Signal Minder? | ||
| Mikej |
http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4 Just a hunch, but take this module back out and see if it cures the problems. Could be the reason someone sold it on ebay, or was it sold as new on the ebay listing? | ||
| Blake |
Wow, excellent diagnosis Mike. I think you may have nailed it. All hail Mike J.!  | ||
| Mikej |
Don't need no hail, got enough snow already up here.  | ||
| Jayvee |
All good ideas. First of all, the older Kisan SM-1 (bought from eBay but new, sealed in package) was in Running Light mode, no self-cancelling. (From the link above, it looks like the newer one will do both now.) I had taken off the SignalMinder, put back stock Flasher. Then, if I hit the flasher at exactly the right time as I decelerate it will come on and work that one turn. If the rpm is too high or too low, they won't come on at all. So I just ordered some Dynatek brand plug wires, the instructions of the Dyna2000 says "Impoartant! The plug wires need 2000 to 4000 ohms resistance PER FOOT." That's unbelievably high ohms. Some plug wire sites say they have 150 ohms resistance. http://www.dynaonline.com/english/instruct/D2K-HD1 E.pdf | ||
| Jayvee |
Well got on the new Dyna wires, still no blinking turn signals. One side or the other will blink ONCE out of maybe 20 tries, and then goes blank. Can I ask again, has anybody installed the Dyna2000 ignition with the DynaTek dual coil, and had the turn signals still work? I tried calling Dynatek, just waited on hold for as long as I could stand it, didn't talk to them. Worth trying maybe an automotive flasher unit? Anything special about the Buell one, other than the mounting tab on it? | ||
| Sparky |
Are you running stock turn signals or aftermarket with different type of bulbs? If the latter, the bulb resistance has to match the stock bulb resistance AND the wiring of the bulb sockets has to match factory wiring as far as grounding, impedance, etc. As far as the Dyna 2000, I had one of those on my Harley big twin. The first one gave me problems but they replaced it and that one worked better. You are smart to go with exactly what they recommend for wires and coils. Stay away from solid core (copper?) plug wires. Is the tach reading exactly half the rpms? If so, how are you providing signal input to the tach? Is it by one lead from the Dyna 2000 or from a wire (wires?) from the coil (coils)? If the latter, you will need two wires and two diodes from the coil low voltage terminals spliced to the tach lead. | ||
| Jayvee |
Tach runs off the green wire out of the Dyna, seems right, its sure not 1/2 speed. Turn signals are all stock right now. I cracked the case of the first Dyna2000, trying to mount it 'backwards' so that the switches are accessible. (Insert bad word here!) So I got another one, no change, same symptom with the turn signals. No blinky. Just love the way the engine sounds though. | ||
| Sparky |
Alrighty then. So, you're OK with the ignition setup for now? The deal with the turn signals depends on 2 things. 1) all bulbs must have one terminal in the socket wired to electrical ground. How each socket terminal gets to this ground connection, whether it's to a screw lug in the frame or wires going to the battery negative post, it doesn't matter. There can't be any voltage on the bulb socket's negative terminal. So, that's one thing to check. Go to each bulb socket, remove the bulb and probe the socket contacts with a multimeter, making sure that only one contact has zero ohms to frame ground. 2) There must be +12V on each of the bulb's other socket terminal (not the ground side you just checked) when the turn signal button is pressed for that side with the key on. If there is voltage there, you are in luck. If you are not getting +12V at any bulb socket, go to the flasher and see if you get +12V at both flasher terminals. There should be 2 flasher terminals, one has +12 V from the accessory fuse. You gotta have voltage there all the time. The other goes to the turn signal switch on the left handlebar. If the turn signal switch is making good contact, it should send +12V to the bulb sockets on the side you pressed. Check both sides for +12V at the bulb sockets with the turn signal button pressed and key on. If all this check out OK, reinstall the bulbs and test the system. Hopefully, the two bulbs will illuminate, drawing current and the flasher should start interupting the current and blink the bulbs. So, there are a few things to check here. Fun, ain't it? | ||
| Jayvee |
Ok I was out, I tried every combination again, and bought another stock flasher, doesn't work. I put the Kisan SM-1 back on, and the running lights are all 4 on, visibly lit up. But no flashing. I got it to flash one blink left. My point is these are single-filament bulbs. They are all four on, in running light mode. So aren't they all getting juice and grounded right? Just the flashing part doesn't work. | ||
| Jayvee |
I talked to one guy at Kisan, he said never heard of it and suggested I send an email to his co-worker, which I will do next. | ||
| Sparky |
With the stock turn signals, all four are off until the turn signal switch selects either left or right direction. Then the two bulbs for that side flash with the key on. If this is not what you are getting with the stock parts, then you have some troubleshooting to do, my friend, after you remove the SM-1 that is. Note: how many pins are there on the stock flasher? The schematic I'm looking at for a 98 S3 shows 2. | ||
| Jayvee |
Ok, guys, it was slow, I admit. I finally moved the Kisan flasher unit back to inside the Banke Tailpiece. I soldered some extensions into the wires to the Flasher Unit plug, and ran the plug back to the tail, plugged in the Kisan flasher unit there. You'll never guess what happened. The running lights came on, as usual, but now the turn signal seem to be working, at least most of the time. Not perfect, I got a little unexpected 4-way flasher action a couple of times, but if I'm very deliberate withe the turn signals, they worked repeatedly during my test drive. So it looks as if the cure was what the Kisan rep said, move the SM-1 unit as far from the 'hot' coil and the plug wires as possible. |
