| Author |
Message |
    
Tim
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 03:02 pm: | 
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Reep,
Were they different part#s?
It would be interesting to know what the differences are. Maybe the old part# is obsolete/superceded, etc.
Perhaps a board sponsor or an anony, could shed some light on the subject. |
Buellrcr
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 04:32 pm: |
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get the arp studs you wont brake them |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 04:48 pm: |
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No idea on the part numbers.
The overall length, and pitch of threads, and length of threads was about the same on both.
The first ones, that came from an untrustworthy dealer in 2003 or so, were supposedly stock for the 2000 M2. They had a bulge in between the two different threaded portions. The second set came from a trustworthy dealer, and were for an XB. They were flatter between the threaded portions.
So something was different, though it probably doesn't matter. Both probably work fine when everything is right, and both probably break when things aren't right.
Don't know about the arp studs. If they resist breaking better (giving you more time to diagnose that you have a problem before you shear a stud) that would certainly be a plus. |
Nautique4life
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 05:09 pm: |
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Just ordered a Jims tool and 4 nuts and studs. Shipping today. I am a bit nervous about performing the work myself, but thankfully badweb will guide me. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 07:44 pm: |
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Just stop if it starts to go badly... I'm more the anti-example then the example, but you are doing well so far by doing what I said and not what I did  |
Jlnance
| | Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 10:24 pm: |
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you know what I'd really love to see someone make? Exhaust studs with a tiny hole drilled up the center on the engine side. That way if the thing sheared off, you would have a pilot hole to drill it out.
Nautique - Good luck. If you mess up it is fixable. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, January 04, 2008 - 07:56 am: |
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I was thinking along the same lines. What i was picturing was an allen wrench shaped hollow cavity that will sit above flush on the head. same thing. A hollow stud, which creates a predictable "shear point" that is above the head surface, and when sheared exposes an internal allen head that can be used to remove the sheared stud.
picture two internal allen head screws, welded head to head, where the weld is the weakest point in the structure.
And ***please*** drop the stupid interference thread fit. Just use normal threads and a lock washer if necessary. The fact that the studs have an interference fit into the head pretty much guarantees that any failure will result in a sheared stud, and that a sheared stud will be really problematic to deal with.
Though from what I have heard, the Jims tool really works well, so the reality is that it's already a solved problem, and I created all my own grief by being a cheapskate.
The one thing I don't understand about the jims tool is how it uses one big drill bit to drill out the old stud. That thing was pretty hard to drill, even starting with small bits and working my way up. Maybe thats part of the reason the Jims tool is $90... it has some sort of unobtanium drill bit. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Friday, January 04, 2008 - 10:21 am: |
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A good drill bit is a good drill bit, and cutting with one bigger good drill bit often takes less work than starting with smaller drill bits and stepping your way up in size. The bushing coupled with a properly sized bit centers the drill bit and can pretty much kiss-cut a bolt out of a hole to the inner thread recess leaving just the bare threads in the hole. I'm not sure if the Jim's Tool drills out the threads too requiring you to tap and helicoil the hole for a new stud or not.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/photo.asp?ID=578&cat=589&prod=1507
http://www.cycleshopusa.com/p2005.htm
I don't know why the Zippers and CycleShop pics look different so contact American Sport Bike to be sure you're getting the right part, plus their price is a few dollars less:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/16029.html
Fortunately I haven't had to use one of these yet. 'scuse me now while I go find something around here made out of real wood so I can knock on it.
Reading the asb page it sounds like the tool only drills out the stud and leaves your threads intact, as it should.
quote:16029 - Exhaust Stud Drill Guide
All Broken Exhaust Stud Drill Guide. When an Exhaust stud breaks, extraction can be difficult. Don’t ruin your head. Bolt this tool to the good stud, use the hardened guid to ensure your drill removes only the broken stud and not your head threads. DON'T USE AN EASY OUT!!
Price: $86.95
Add this item to your shopping cart or wish list below.
(psss, hey Al, you're missing an "e" on your page, "guid" s/b "guide"  ) |
Nautique4life
| | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 10:25 am: |
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So then, I would use a wire brush tool to clean out the remaining threads? Also, what about lubricants while I am drilling? Should I stop periodically and spray it with some white lithium grease or silicon?
Finally, will the hole need to be retapped?
My Jims tool should be here within the day. I hope to be riding by weeks end. The weather is great right now. 74 High today.
Thanks. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 10:50 am: |
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For other projects I've had to dental-pick the remaining threads out of holes, and sometimes they'd blow out with an air nozzle. A wire gun cleaning brush on a drill motor might work too, not sure what caliber you'd need though. Don't know functionally how clean they come out with the Jim's tool on a Buell. Cleaning the threads back up afterwards would give you a nice clean thread for the new stud to screw into. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 12:47 pm: |
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The intent (and practice) with the Jims tool is that the threads are left. I got very close to that with my home made tool, so I don't doubt the real thing will work perfectly.
The threads will either spin out with the drill, come out with a dental pick, or maybe cleaned up with a tap. If you use a tap, remove and clear absurdly often, and don't force it at all. The bigger chips can jam.
For lubrication, this is going to sound weird, but the best luck I have had is with bacon grease. It sticks great, won't boil, and smells good . |
Mikej
| | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 01:04 pm: |
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(Note to self: don't park near Reep's bike in bear country.) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 04:44 pm: |
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LOL! Wonder how I would explain *that* to my insurance agent... |
Nautique4life
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2008 - 12:15 pm: |
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Ahh well, you see Mr. Insurance adjuster, I was drilling this stud with my tool, and I was lubing the stud up with bacon grease so I could drill easier. I was drilling that stud hard and when it got dry on me, I would just dump on some more bacon grease. So you see, when I was done drilling, I went for a ride with my new studs and the break lever slipped out of my hand cause all the grease and that's how I wrecked my bike. The adjuster is just standing there in awe questioning my sexuality. But it's actually a true story. I know this reads like some of that homersexual porn. But, no Reep, it doesn't sound weird at all!!
Hahahahaa!!! |
Nautique4life
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 09:12 am: |
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I did it. Had some hiccups during the process, but after about 10 hours, $127 and a couple of phone calls to Al, the work is done. All that is left if some spot tightening after a couple heat cycles. Some pics of my journey to follow soon. Once I got the header pipe removed and the Jims tool bolted in place, I went to work with my drill. I should note that I didn't have to remove the entire header, it's Micron and thankfully I was able to remove just the front elbow piece. Anyhow, I'm drilling, oiling, cleaning, repeat. Periodically, I would unbolt the Jims tool to run a magnet down the hole to remove the shavings. This proved to be a bad idea. As I was removing the tool from the head, the stud that I use to ATTACH it broke off. Now I'm really pissed. What to do? Well I was very close, or so I thought, to being finished with the dilling. So I had my buddy hold the Jims in place while my steady hands finished the job. Once that was done, we removed the threads using the tap/dental pic combo. and replaced stud #1. with a fresh stud in place it was time to get to work on #2. That would wait until the next day. On day 2, I bought 2 $5 DeWalt titanium drill bits from Home Depot.
Also, I decided to use motor oil for my cutting lube. Q-tips worked well for applying oil in the hole. The drill bits worked great. I oped the 2nd one about half way through the drilling just to get it over with. And yes, I added the bushings for the front canister mount so this SHOULD never happen again. So that's it. I went riding last night and fell in love again. It was the first time I rode in 3 1/2 months. And she ran GREAT. I love stories with happy endings. |
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