| Author |
Message |
    
Mikem9992
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2007 - 06:38 pm: | 
|
I just bought this bike, and love it, but I've got questions, that surfing the web just doesn't seem to answer. 1. Does anyone know where I can find INEXPENSIVE parts? Specifically, I am looking for a micro tach to bolt onto the handlebars, a rear fender eliminator kit. I can't believe how expensive these things are. Also, the shift lever is extremely stiff on these things, any ideas on how to make my left foot not hurt? |
Jayvee
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2007 - 07:24 pm: |
|
There's no magic place one can find inexpensive parts. Lots of parts are real cheap at the dealer, sometimes you can get stuff from internet, sometimes eBay. It all depends on exactly what part you need.
Micro Tach, check for Harley supply places would be the best bet. Google is your friend. The Fender Eliminator by Banke is the only 'commercial solution' I know of, but lots of people approximate it for next to nothing but labor. Depends on how much fender you want to eliminate.
Shift lever stiff? Make sure the clutch cable is adjusted and lubricated, might not be disengaging all the way? Lube the pivot points maybe? Seems like not too many keep the stock shifting apparatus from '99 |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2007 - 08:18 pm: |
|
The proper primary chain and clutch adjustment goes a long way, and try the Formula Plus primary fluid as well. Take your time and do it by the book, and it will shift better.
If you can find the banke shifter, that looks and works great. The 2001 and up kit is a better shifter as well. Al at American Sport Bike had bronze bushing replacements that would make the stock shifter work well also. |
Blake
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 12:59 am: |
|
"Also, the shift lever is extremely stiff on these things, any ideas on how to make my left foot not hurt?"
See your doctor immediately, sounds like you might have a serious case of wussitiss.  |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 08:21 am: |
|
Everything you could ever want to know about maintaining and repairing your M2 is in the Knowledge Vault.
Just start browsing it by category (sounds like the drivetrain section would be a good start for you) and you'll find it all. If you did not get them with the bike, get a factory service manual and parts list.
The factory SM is a wonderful book, there are a few things in it that you will need some minor adjustments or variations from but those details are all in the KV.
Jack |
Blake
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 09:05 am: |
|
Be sure to adjust your shift lever for optimum ergonomic benefit. Sounds like yours might do well if rotated downwards a bit.
Also ensure that the transmission/primary chaincase is not over-filled. Even just a little extra lube in that system can increase required shifting effort. The H-D transmission is different from most other motorcycle transmissions. It is longer throw and higher effort, so a good pair of riding boots/shoes with doubled up leather in the shifter contact area is a good idea. Thick socks help to.
Also consider that a good cable lubing will often significantly reduce clutch lever effort thus allowing smoother/better shifting action. The Cyclone's clutch is a manly one though. If you normally sit at lights with the clutch lever pulled in, try instead shifting into neutral as you coast to a stop; then you can release the clutch and spare yourself the stress.
Also ensure that your clutch lever orientation/position is ergonomically optimized to better ensure full/proper engagement/disengagement of the clutch. Many times, rotating the lever downwards improves feel and reduces stress on tendons in the wrist area.
And be sure to get something for that wussitiss.
(Message edited by blake on October 23, 2007) |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 09:08 am: |
|
Mike,
Are you looking for just a tach? Have you seen the tach kits Buell offers/offered? Some came with an aluminum dash plate and others came with a plastic dash plate. Both types of "kits" and dash plates show up for sale every so often.
Drag Specialties, Custom Chrome, any of the BadweB sponsors, all have various tach options available.
Inexpensive is a relative term. Lots of the folks on the site here have a strong do it yourself mentality.
For the fender eliminator kit, are you looking to get rid of the inner fender, or the license plate holder portion under the tail section? Some people just chop off the license plate support then fabricate up something to hold their license plate, turn signals get mounted in various ways as well.
Rummage around the picture sections to see lots of things people have done with their bikes.
And welcome to the board here. |
Bigdaddy
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 09:34 am: |
|
Mike,
How many miles are on the M2? Formula+ and by-the-book adjustment will probably do wonders for you. Update the shifter linkage too.
(I would recommend that you run M1 gear lube for about 5K miles to loosen everything up, but I'd start a big honking, and unnecessary, argument.) |
Spike
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 12:21 pm: |
|
Mike-
First off, congrats on the new bike. I had a '99 M2 myself, they're absolutely wonderful bikes. However, it takes a bit of crate time to get them up to their full potential. It should be noted that a little extra time in maintaining these bikes will got a long way towards future headaches. Get used to sifting through the knowledge vault, it's chock full of wisdom and answers to questions you haven't thought to ask yet.
As others have noted, make sure everything involved with the shifter is adjusted properly (clutch cable, ball/ramp assembly, primary chain tension, and shift linkage). Also, make sure you have a good fluid at the proper fill level. I used Mobil1 gear oil in my M2 for a while with no issues, but gear oils have been known to cause stator failures on these bikes. That's a long and drawn out debate, so no need to get into it here. I'm currently running Amsoil v-twin 20w50 in my XB's tranny. The OEM stuff (sport-trans or forumula+) should be fine. Swap to the '01+ style or Banke shift linkage, both are way better than stock. The '01+ linkage was available as a kit from the dealer, or you can check the classifieds or ebay for parts off an '01 or '02 M2. Another trick to improving the shift quality on your '99 M2 is to swap to the newer detent plate. They updated them in '00 or '01. You'll have to pull the primary and the clutch basket to get to the detent plate, but it pops right off once you get to it. One more shifting tip that applies to all motorcycles- get real boots.
About the mini-tach, as you've already noticed the clean looking kits are expensive. Generic "fits-all-but-none-right" kits are cheaper, but you get what you pay for in that case. 2001 and 2002 M2s had a tach from the factory that was also available as a kit to retrofit to the previous M2s. You could look for one of those or check the classifieds and ebay for the parts from a newer model. On my M2 I wanted to keep the single gauge dash and replace then speedo with an OEM tach from an S3 or X1, then use a wireless bicycle speedometer mounted on the handlebar clamp. I never did settle on the right bicycle speedo (there are a ton of them out there), so my M2 remained tach-less until I sold it. |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2007 - 03:02 pm: |
|
I thought I needed a tach on my 2000 M2, but I don't miss it at all.
If the transmission doesn't shift any better after the clutch has been properly adjusted and the oil level is checked, you might need to inspect the detent plate and make sure the pins and circlip holding it on the shift drum aren't compromised.
You can make your own fender eliminator pretty easily if you have the time and inclination... mine was essentially free if you don't count the cheap turn signals. The rest was just cutting with a Dremel (a hacksaw blade would work fine), sanding, drilling, and bending.
I got fancy and tapped the license plate mounting holes in the 3/16" aluminum plate so the screws wouldn't need nuts.
Don't use those turn signals, btw. They don't emit much light. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2007 - 02:51 am: |
|
I thought I needed a tach also but after riding the bike and the V&H pipe it would be a waste of my money. I am now used to the sound of my bike and speed vs. gear selection. The stock muffler was to quiet. And I have had a few Harleys and could fall asleep listening to the sound of the rumble of a good V-Twin. My other bikes never had tach's either. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2007 - 03:03 am: |
|
And after reading the original post again. I updated to the Banke shift set. It works great. Much more compact also. I just got lucky and bought it slightly used for under 100 so keep looking for what you really need and want. |
Spike
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2007 - 09:33 am: |
|
Something I left out in my previous post- I also did the do-it-yourself fender eliminator, but I don't have any pictures of it close up:
I started with a dremel, but the cutting wheel I was using would generate too much heat and was melting through the plastic rather than cutting. I switched over to a hacksaw to do the rough cutting, then came back with a file and then sand paper to finish the edges. I didn't use any additional brackets to remount the license plate, I just left enough material from the stock fender to hold just the top of the plate. I also reused the stock turn signals my drilling two holes next to the tail light and mounting them higher up. The end result used no additional parts so there was no cost, just a few hours of my time. |
|
Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
Archive through October 31, 2007 »
Just bought a 99' M2, need someone with experience