| Author | Message | ||
     Firemanjim |
Oh,and I forgot to say I added a second boost feed line to fuel bowl so it would see boost signal better and this definitely helped. | ||
| Roc |
VR1203, Sorry about the late reply - not paying enough attention here. 15PSI boost and 7k-RPM, I don't know how much power it would make but I bet it would be expensive. The boon of turbos is that they make power at low RPM - so they put less stress on the engines components. FMJ - boost feed line to the float bowl? | ||
| Vr1203 |
I've stripped my engine, no damage from running 12lbs with 10 1/2-1 cr,no damage from running into the 7000rpm+ range. This is with stock Bue11,HD internals. A wristpin keeper disapppeared on the front piston,before it left it was intimate with the cylinder, in a bad way. | ||
| Vr1203 |
On another note, I need a chart to show the cam profiles of Bue11 cams. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Roc,on the Mikuni there is a fuel overflow line from bottom of float bowl,and it must be capped to insure that float bowl sees proper boost pressure.I just ran another line from plenum to this instead of capping it.That way it sees boost from 2 sources.Seemed to help and I had heard this from a couple of sources. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Has anyone used this analyzer program?http://www.performancetrends.com/EA30.htm Very expensive! | ||
| Vr1203 |
variable valve timing is here! http://www.aatap.com/generic4.html will they work with turbos? | ||
| Blake |
VR, Beware! The notation on the first dyno chart shown says that HP was not available. But it shows torque versus rpm. That's all that is needed to calculate HP. Second graph shows HP at less than 10HP for a TC88? Read the disclaimer. I'm very skeptical. If you are not concerned about a floating valve seat breaking into pieces and blowing your engine, it might be something to try. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Blake, I found it incredible.  How does this stuff get this far? A person once told me I think "out of the box", someone needs to round these guys up and put them back in!(We need a smilie getting out of the "box", call it VR!) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Pete,etal.I am going to have to reshape my exhaust system on turbo.As it sits,it has pipes side by side stacked away from engine and I need to put them laying side by side like the cylinders lay to get the clearance for bodywork.This is going to shorten the front pipe a bit.I don't think this will affect running of bike to a large extent.Any opinions?Suprisingly,the turbo unit with aircleaner seems to clear the lowers with plenty of room. Are there any need to know tips on welding stainless tubing---Jim W,Pete??? | ||
| Peter |
Jim, I've just made a new one out of mild steel and will be getting it ceramic coated. As for welding stainless, about the only tip I can give you is not to let it get too hot in one area. The stuff is very brittle and is prone to cracking. I'm sure JW can help you more there.   | ||
| Jim_witt |
Pete, Humm, I’ve never had any problems with stainless cracking or being brittle (Aluminum definitely). Of course you can get it to hot TIG welding it. It contracts drastically, creating an hourglass illusion where the tube is butted together. What kind of stainless are you using, including filler rod? Was it TIG or MIG welded? Did you purge the inside while welding it? Just curious, I would think that wrapping the pipes with thermal insulated tape would stress relieve the stainless causing it to become brittle. Then again I’m not a metallurgist either but I do know about stress relieving heavy wall super heated steam piping. -JW:>  | ||
| Peter |
Jim, Sorry, I meant whilst welding it. On my first header I was using a TIG and had a bit of fun when I was welding the collector together. I had to bump the amps up to get heat into the top part of the collector, and found cracks starting in the area I'd already done. Not sure of the grade of the rods, and I wasn't purging it while I was welding. It was also on used headers so there was some contamination on the inside of the tubing. I wasn't happy with it when it was finished which is why I've made another one. | ||
| Blake |
Peter, Very impressive! Have I told you lately?... You suck!  I've got some welding to do on a race race header. Luckily a friend is a master welder, cause if it were left to me, I'd stand a better chance using super-glue.  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Jim,purging while welding???Explain,please. | ||
| Jim_witt |
Jim, Purging is NOT necessary for the current application, I was only asking. It has nothing to do with weld integrity under the condition it’s being used (freaking exhaust header). Of course if I welded the puppy I'd purge it. Purging the "inside" simply keeps the bead "inside the tube" from the atmosphere, just as the cup does while welding the "outside". It also keeps the bead "inside" from crystallizing, turning black, getting a scap on it and makes the inside just a pretty and smooth as the outside. -JW:> | ||
| Vr1203 |
Roc, QUOTE [VR1203, Sorry about the late reply - not paying enough attention here. 15PSI boost and 7k-RPM, I don't know how much power it would make but I bet it would be expensive. The boon of turbos is that they make power at low RPM - so they put less stress on the engines components.] I was running it up to 7000rpm+ (it did'nt make 15lb's , never seen more than 12lb's) all the time with stock vlv train. So would it be harder on parts when I lower my CR to run it to 15lbs? I think the big power and the "Holy SH**" factor come from RPM. Look at the import tuners they scream.Small motor high RPM big power. I talked to Jim at Aerocharger today. They cannot or will not change my turbo's configuration. Aerocharger and Aerodyne do have not the parts available.Isn't that funny? Back to its orginal setting is the best I can hope for . Jim (at Aerocharger) said I could expect to see 130 to 140 HP with 1200cc,if everything was "right". And that's a big "if". Thats a lot less than Firemanjim's. Is it the 1440cc displacement? FJM You must have a different turbo. | ||
| Firemanjim |
VR,probably displacement and headwork(Nallin good stuff)letting more airflow.Remember,I was making 121 without turbo.And considering stock Buell output(S-2 has 60hp)120+ is darn good. | ||
| Vr1203 |
FMJ, So I should spend more money and go with 1440cc? I already have Thunderstorm heads. | ||
| Jim_witt |
Yes, spend more MONEY and make sure you get Nallin or Pammy to do all the work! -JW:> | ||
| Firemanjim |
These are way more than T-storm heads,thats the starting point,(check out Nallin website for head info)motor was balanced and blueprinted with oil system mods,roller rockers,etc.I sent engine to him and let him rock and roll. | ||
| Vr1203 |
FMJ, I think I know why you're making too much boost,if your turbo is the same as mine, the same size and CFM's. Garrett(?) at Aerodyne said if I went to 1440cc's and 150hp's that it would put the turbo in danger,"it would blow up".In other words,the turbo would be overspeeding. Hence your 15psi's. You need a remote adjustable wastegate,the Aerocharger's vanes can only do so much. If you measure the turbo turbine inlet,figure the area,I can compare mine. I do not have mine now ,its at Aerodyne for a rebuild. I could use the inlet pipe or gasket. | ||
| Vr1203 |
JW quote[Yes, spend more MONEY and make sure you get Nallin or Pammy to do all the work! ] My stuff is at Nallin now or it is in route. I hope Brian can come up with a plan. Jim at Aerocharger told me to run stock valve train and stock cams anything else would be a waste of money.I had Sportster Sport cams picked out, they have a real low overlap number(19*), and better numbers than plain jane Sportster cams.Not much lift though.Would a big intake vlv help offset the lack of lift? | ||
| Firemanjim |
As I understand it,turbos like to see low overlap #'s on cams.And I got boost #'s down near 9-10 lbs. now.After this year I am going to give turbo a going over/upgrade. | ||
| Jim_witt |
Dunno, Can't answer your question. My Aerochargers have only been installed on stock engines. I'm totally satisifed with the performace and reliability I've had for the last 5 years. I agree with you about FMJ's turbo, plus he's going to fry his $10,000 motor anyway if he isn't more careful. -JW:> | ||
| Vr1203 |
FMJ quote[.....After this year I am going to give turbo a going over/upgrade.] I tried to get Aerodyne to change the AR ratio. Wednesday they said it was impossible, I would have to buy a new turbo.(They,the manufacturer, didn't have a new one anyway,he said maybe Aerocharger,the kit outfit, had one!) Besides they said they have no parts. That story is different than about 4 months ago, when I planned to upgrade mine.I would really like to know what's going on.They run their business like they have something to hide. I just hope I get mine back sometime ,its been sent out about 4 months. | ||
| Vr1203 |
JW What does your bike run,on the dyno? | ||
| Vr1203 |
I have been studing the cam timing relationships with regard to a turbocharged engine ,I found this information. It seems like there is something wrong with his idea of inlet valve timing discussed in the paper. .....This means that the intake valve needs to open 20-35° ATDC, depending on the amount of boost you're using. Most street turbo's will work well when the valve opens close to 20.... All the info I have on camshafts(Sportster/Buel1 profiles)show that you need to lead the opening of the intake vlv a little bit, as in degrees BTDC.What is this guy talking about? http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/turbocams.cfm | ||
| Peter |
Jim, He says earlier that those figures apply when the turbo is undersized for the engine. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Peter, exactly the Aerocharger is undersized. |
